The second half of summer is characterized by a change in weather conditions, fogs appear, it becomes damp, which contributes to the development of phytophthora on tomatoes, as well as other vegetables, etc. Gardeners take various measures to protect vegetables, but if late blight has damaged tomatoes, you need to know how to deal with it correctly. There are various chemicals available to combat late blight on nightshade crops, including tomatoes, and folk remedies protection, therefore, timely measures taken will prevent the appearance of the disease and preserve the harvest of vegetables.

There is an opinion that there are allegedly no varieties of tomatoes that would withstand phytophthora. However, breeders are carrying out colossal work to develop new varieties, including those resistant to late blight. And their achievements are pleasing. There is always a mark about the resistance of the variety on the seed bag. When purchasing vegetable seeds, be sure to pay attention to the description and do not be lazy to read the features of the selected variety, so as not to be disappointed later.

Hybrid tomato varieties resistant to late blight include: Dragonfly, Parterre, Caspar, Blagovest, Dwarf, Snowstorm, Oak... You can supplement the list with varieties: Solerosso, Lark, Gina, Kostroma.

Late blight is easier to prevent than to fight with it, therefore, timely preventive measures taken will prevent the onset of the disease. And the fight should be started not at the time when the leaves of the vegetables turn black, but during the growing of tomato seedlings. Foliar processing is carried out several times per season. This is the only way to protect the plants and preserve the harvest.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

Late blight is a dangerous fungal disease that affects the stems and fruits of tomatoes. It is advisable to plant tomatoes away from the potatoes, since it is the latter that gets sick first, and then the spores spread to the tomatoes.

Prevention of disease

When choosing tomato seeds, it is recommended to give preference to early varieties and hybrids. The early ones will have time to mature ahead of time before the spread of the disease, and hybrid varieties are more resistant to late blight.
If the first signs of the disease are noticed, it is necessary to remove all affected foliage and burn it.
For the purpose of prevention, during the ripening of fruits in vegetables, it is necessary to make phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. This will raise immunity and increase resistance to late blight.
Mulching of the land is carried out near the plantings.
With the onset of cold nights, even in the evening, tomatoes should be covered with spunbond or non-woven fabric. But they need to be thrown only from above to the middle of the bushes. That is, the covering material should not touch the ground. This technique protects plants from cold dew.
After harvesting, all bushes are harvested and burned.
For the purpose of additional processing, vegetables are sprayed with preparations " Barrier", "Oxyhom", "HOM", "Screen".
You can plant curly beans, corn or peas near the tomatoes. Plants will serve as a kind of curtain and protect the tomatoes.

Signs of plant disease

The first signs of late blight appear on the lower leaves of tomatoes. Dark spots take on a bizarre shape, and a white coating appears on them. The disease in vegetables quickly spreads and after a couple of days all the foliage and stems of tomatoes turn black. It enters the fruits of late blight through the stalk. Initially, the fruits do not change their color, but over time, brownish spots appear on them, which darken and turn black.

The disease is dangerous because in a few days it can spread to all plantings and destroy the entire crop. Moreover, late blight fall ill like tomatoes growing in open ground and tomatoes grown in the greenhouse.

Conditions conducive to disease

1. At high air humidity and large temperature differences: it is hot during the day and cold at night, late blight develops.

2. Excessive watering and heavy rains. To reduce soil moisture, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil in tomato plantings.

3. Dense planting. Do not plant vegetables close to each other. It is also necessary not to let them grow. To do this, you need to pick off the stepsons and excess foliage.

4. Lowered temperatures. At this time, you need to sound the alarm and treat the plants in order to prevent the onset of the disease.

Folk remedies for combating late blight of tomatoes

Many gardeners-vegetable growers do not want to stuff their tomatoes with chemicals, therefore, folk remedies are used to combat late blight.

Whey or milk infusion

Milk, whey and kefir contain lactic acid bacteria that prevent the spread of the disease. These products can be used to spray tomato plantings all summer long, as they are harmless.

To prepare an infusion with milk, 100 ml is diluted in 1 liter of water. product and sprayed with nightshade crops. A drop of iodine can be added to the solution, this will not only increase the plant's resistance to diseases, but also serve as a fertilizer. If there is no milk, you can dilute kefir in the same proportion.

Spraying with serum is carried out as follows: it must be diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio and sprayed on the planting. You should not wait for the appearance of the disease, you can process folk remedies for the entire growing season with an interval of 2 weeks.

Infusion of garlic or onion

For 10 liters of water, 200 g is taken. chopped garlic or onions. After a day, the infusion is filtered and the diseased tomatoes are treated. The interval between treatments is 2 weeks.

Saline solution

Gardeners are very creative, and they came up with available means for protecting vegetables. Which is table salt. Dissolve 250 grams of salt in one bucket of water and spray the tomatoes. This solution, which protects not only against late blight, prevents the development of other diseases. After spraying, a protective film appears on the fruits and on the leaves, which does not allow spores to penetrate into the plant. Of course, this film is washed off by rains, so after rainy weather the tomatoes must be processed again.

Replenishment of tomatoes with copper ions from phytophthora

It's an old proven way to protect vegetables from disease.

What is the principle of using copper wire

Initially, this method for late blight involved wrapping the roots of tomatoes before planting with copper wire. But the gardeners finalized it and began to wind the wire not only on the root system, but also to pierce the stalks of vegetables with it, and stick it into the ground between plantings.

Operating principle. A thin copper wire is taken, calcined and cut into pieces from 3 to 4 cm. After that, a through puncture is made on the stems of growing plants at a distance of 10 cm from the ground. The ends of the wire are not wrapped around the stem, but bent downward.

For your information!

When performing such an operation, it should be remembered that punctures are made only after the stem gets stronger.

Copper deficiency leads to a decrease in chlorophyll, vegetables are stunted, some tomatoes die. Copper deficiency also affects disease resistance.

How to put the method into practice

It is necessary to prepare a copper wire with a diameter of up to 1 mm, we clean it from insulation with a knife, varnish coating remove with sandpaper. The wire is washed and cut into small pieces. Then you need to pierce the stem through, and bend the ends of the wire down. Do not twist the remnants of the wire near the stem, as this will prevent the plants from developing correctly.

The procedure should be carried out before or after transplanting, when the vegetables are fully rooted. You cannot pierce tomatoes during transplantation, only after 2 weeks. In the process of acupuncture, the plants are severely stressed and need time to adapt.

On the stem of the seedlings, a puncture is made under the first real leaf. In matured tomatoes planted in the ground, punctures are made at a height of 10 cm from the hilled mound. In a rainy summer, the wire is installed at a distance of 80-90 cm from the ground. Saturation of tomatoes with copper ions is a highly ecological method, harmless to the plant and humans. Copper is absorbed into vegetative parts and cannot be washed away by rains.

Fighting late blight on tomatoes by chemical methods

Not every owner decides to spray vegetables with chemicals, but sometimes only they help protect and cure crops.

To prepare a solution for spraying tomatoes, you need to take potassium permanganate (aka potassium permanganate), copper sulfate and boric acid. All positions - 1 teaspoon each.

At the beginning, all the components should be steamed separately with boiling water, then put together, mix and spray the planting. We recommend spraying three times at intervals of 7 weeks.

Each gardener uses available drugs for foliar treatment to prevent the appearance of late blight, for example, HOM, which can be purchased in special stores. But it is important to know that chemistry accumulates in the fruits of vegetables and during processing you cannot overdo it with a dose. It is required to carefully read the instructions with the instructions and follow them exactly.

What to do with damaged vegetables

How to save tomatoes

Part of the crop affected by late blight can still be preserved. For this, there is a method of heat treatment of fruits. Pour water heated to 60 degrees into the basin and place tomatoes in it. The fruits should be warm, but not boiled! As it cools, add warm water until the tomatoes are warmed up. Then the fruits are removed, dried and sent to ripening in a dark place or put on a windowsill.

Is it possible to eat fruits

Late blight spores die during heating, and such tomatoes can be eaten. If the disease is severely affected by the fruit, they will turn black and heat treatment will not help them. But the damaged green fruits of vegetables are used for canning.

The second half of summer is characterized by a change in weather conditions, fogs appear, it becomes damp, which contributes to the development of late blight on tomatoes, as well as other vegetables and strawberries. Gardeners take various measures to protect vegetables, but if late blight has damaged tomatoes, you need to know how to deal with it correctly and how to treat diseased plants. There are various chemical preparations for fighting late blight on nightshade crops, including tomatoes, and folk remedies, so timely measures taken will prevent the appearance of the disease and preserve the harvest of vegetables.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

Signs of plant disease with late blight

The disease is dangerous because in a few days it can spread to all plantings and destroy the entire crop. Moreover, late blight affects both tomatoes growing in the open field and tomatoes grown in a greenhouse.

Conditions conducive to disease

1. At high air humidity and large temperature differences: it is hot during the day and cold at night, late blight develops.

2. Excessive watering and heavy rains. To reduce soil moisture, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil in tomato plantings.

3. Dense planting. Do not plant vegetables close to each other. It is also necessary not to let them grow. To do this, you need to pick off the stepsons and excess foliage.

4. Lowered temperatures. At this time, you need to sound the alarm and treat the plants in order to prevent the onset of the disease.

How to protect tomatoes from late blight

When choosing tomato seeds, it is recommended to give preference to early varieties and hybrids. The early ones will have time to mature ahead of time before the spread of the disease, and hybrid varieties are more resistant to late blight.
If the first signs of the disease are noticed, it is necessary to remove all affected foliage and burn it.
For the purpose of prevention, during the ripening of fruits in vegetables, it is necessary to make phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. This will raise immunity and increase resistance to late blight.
Mulching of the land is carried out near the plantings.
With the onset of cold nights, even in the evening, tomatoes should be covered with spunbond or non-woven fabric. But they need to be thrown only from above to the middle of the bushes. That is, the covering material should not touch the ground. This technique protects plants from cold dew.
After harvesting, all bushes are harvested and burned.
For the purpose of additional processing, vegetables are sprayed with the preparations "Barrier", "Oksikhom", "Zaslon".
You can plant curly beans, corn or peas near the tomatoes. Plants will serve as a kind of curtain and protect the tomatoes.

Folk remedies to combat late blight

Many summer residents - vegetable growers do not want to stuff their tomatoes with chemicals, therefore, folk remedies are used to combat late blight.

Whey or milk infusion

Milk, whey and kefir contain lactic acid bacteria that prevent the spread of the disease. These products can be used to spray plantings all summer long, as they are harmless.

Infusion of garlic or onion

For 10 liters of water, 200 g is taken. chopped garlic or onions. After a day, the infusion is filtered and the diseased tomatoes are treated. The interval between treatments is 2 weeks.

Saline solution

Feeding tomatoes with copper ions is a proven way to protect vegetables from late blight

For your information!

When performing such an operation, it should be remembered that punctures are made only after the stem gets stronger.

Copper deficiency leads to a decrease in chlorophyll, vegetables are stunted, some specimens die. Copper deficiency also affects disease resistance.

How to put the method into practice

It is necessary to prepare a copper wire with a diameter of up to 1 mm, clean it from insulation with a knife, remove the varnish coating with sandpaper. The wire is washed and cut into small pieces. Then you need to pierce the stem through, and bend the ends of the wire down. Do not twist the remnants of the wire near the stem, as this will prevent the plants from developing correctly.

On the stem of the seedlings, a puncture is made under the first real leaf. In matured tomatoes planted in the ground, punctures are made at a height of 10 cm from the hilled mound. In a rainy summer, the wire is installed at a distance of 80 - 90 cm from the ground. Saturation of tomatoes with copper ions is a highly ecological method, harmless to the plant and humans. Copper is absorbed into vegetative parts and cannot be washed away by rains.

Fighting late blight on tomatoes by chemical methods

Not every owner decides to spray vegetables with chemicals, but sometimes only they help protect and cure crops.

To prepare a solution for spraying tomatoes, you need to take potassium permanganate (aka potassium permanganate), copper sulfate and boric acid. All positions - 1 teaspoon each.

At the beginning, all the components should be steamed separately with boiling water, then put together, mix and spray the planting. We recommend spraying three times at intervals of 7 weeks.

How to save tomatoes damaged by late blight

Part of the crop affected by late blight can still be preserved. For this, there is a method of heat treatment of fruits. Pour water heated to 60 degrees into the basin and place tomatoes in it. The fruits should be warm, but not boiled! As it cools, add warm water until the tomatoes warm up. Then the fruits are removed, dried and sent to ripening in a dark place or put on a windowsill.

Can fruits damaged by late blight be eaten?

Selection of late blight-resistant tomato varieties

Hybrid tomato varieties resistant to late blight include: Dragonfly, Parterre, Kaspar, Blagovest, Gnome, Blizzard, Dubok. The list can be supplemented with varieties: Solerosso, Lark, Gina, Kostroma.

How to deal with late blight in tomatoes on the site

Mulching the soil A good prophylaxis will be spraying plantings and soil with biopreparations phytosporin and trichodermin before the onset of the disease. They suppress the spread of diseases 1. Usually late blight appears on tomatoes in August, after cold nights and damp foggy matinees. But tomatoes can get sick earlier - in July. Favorable weather for the development of the disease - temperatures below + 15 ° C and high humidity.

The solution must be prepared immediately before spraying - the next day it is no longer suitable for treating plants.

It is imperative to water tomatoes only at the root.
Already in February, when the ground is still covered with snow, many gardeners begin to take care of the future harvest: they buy seeds, prepare planting boxes and greenhouses. Growing tomatoes from small grains, surrounding them with care, everyone hopes to get beautiful, juicy and ripe fruits as a result, but the dreams of some owners are not destined to come true. And it's all the fault of the disease, which in a short time destroy the plant. The question of how to deal with late blight on tomatoes is of interest to many, because the disease can nullify all efforts and completely destroy the crop.
Prepare an infusion of crushed nettle leaves and stalks (1.5 kg per 10 liters). This infusion is used to treat the soil around the bush and the plants themselves. Treatments with herbal preparations are absolutely harmless, they can be carried out during the entire growing season and even during harvesting.Another approved preparation is copper oxychloride. It is taken for 10 liters of water 40 grams. On square meter plantings take a liter of such a solution. But you can harvest the fruits only after 20 days.
Do not get too carried away with watering. Two weeks before the expected final harvest, many gardeners stop wetting altogether. Moreover, watering should be carried out only at the root so that the spray does not fall on the leaves and stems. Water for irrigation is taken that warmed up during the day, that is, not ice cold from the tap. Tomatoes root system well developed, if necessary, the roots will take moisture from the deep layers of the soil.
The first signs of the disease are not difficult to notice. First, large brown spots appear along the edge of the leaf plate. If the humidity is high in the morning, then turning the leaf over, you will find a whitish coating from below (a symptom of sporulation). Next comes the yellowing of the leaves, their browning intensifies, and then drying follows. The disease grasps the stems, moves towards green fruits. The gardener approaches the garden bed, and on the tomatoes he sees brown-brown spots of a vague type. They are also present inside the fetus. It happens that when harvesting, the spots are not yet visible, but they make themselves felt after a few days. Tomatoes, laid out for ripening and storage, are rapidly turning black.

Hom, Polykhom, Oxykhom

Also, to protect the tomatoes in the greenhouse, do not plant potatoes and open field tomatoes nearby so that spores from them do not enter the greenhouse.

Photo phytophthora on tomatoes

2. Thickened plantings contribute to the appearance of late blight. Therefore, the excess leaves must be cut off to improve the ventilation of the bushes.

It is important not to miss the first spraying since the formation of the lower tier of fruits.

... People say: "Tomatoes should have wet feet and dry heads."

Basically, in July, problems begin with both greenhouse seedlings and those that grow in open ground. It was during this period that late blight appears on tomatoes. How to deal with this disease and can plants be saved? Of course, it is best to carry out prophylaxis back in June, such drugs as "Zircon" and "Fitosporin" are suitable for this. Tomatoes growing outdoors are easier to save because they can be treated with one of the solutions containing copper. After that, the fruits should not be eaten for 3 weeks. In the greenhouse, it is impossible to spray the tops with copper solutions, since the tomatoes are immediately used.

At the end of July, you can spray with a solution of coniferous concentrate at the rate of 1 tbsp. concentrate powder per 10 liters. water.

Of the modern effective antifungal agents, we will name Ridomil Gold, Thanos, Bravo.

Fight weeds that create darkening, excess moisture. Periodically loosen the soil under the plantings, especially in wet weather.

To prevent late blight from touching your diligently grown tomato bushes, Special attention should be given to preventive measures. First of all, this is the correct agricultural technique.

, They can be diluted directly in cold water in a watering can (according to the instructions).

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Phytophthora on tomatoes. How to treat plants in the open field and greenhouse

At the end of June, you need to spray the tomatoes in the greenhouse with a biological product phytosporin for prevention. Constantly cultivate the land under the tomatoes.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

It is necessary to strengthen plants from a young age. Temper. It is enough to fertilize and feed (without fanaticism and excesses, of course). Water with infusion of ash during the ripening of the fruit. To make them strong and strong, then it will be easier for them to fight diseases. But nitrogen fertilizers (mullein, herbal infusions) in the second half of summer should not be fed - this weakens the plants, they will get sick faster.

What is late blight? Signs of illness

3. Watering tomatoes over the leaves also helps them get sick. Therefore, in the open field, late blight often appears after rainy cold weather.The second treatment is carried out 10 days after the first. We carry out the third treatment as needed - depending on the weather.

Be sure to tie up the bushes, the fruits should not lie on damp ground.

How to save tomatoes from late blight without resorting to drugs that are hazardous to health? Alternatively, you can use 5% iodine, at the rate of 1 ml per 1 liter of water. First, you need to completely cut off the affected leaves, these include yellow and black spots, then you need to spray the stem and fruits abundantly. Re-processing is carried out after 3 days. To prevent the solution from rolling off the leaves, you can add soap to it.

Milk and whey help protect tomatoes from disease. These dairy products, in addition to biologically active substances, useful microelements, contain lactic acid bacteria, which the phytophthora pathogen is afraid of. For spraying, take 2 liters. milk or whey per 10 liters of water.

Can I take seeds from diseased tomatoes?

Preparations to combat late blight should be used immediately, as the first signs of infection develop, when it just begins to emerge from the soil, wants to infect the plants, then you will save your plantings from late blight, which is dangerous and fatal for the fruit.

Conditions for the development of phytophthora

If you plant tomatoes in greenhouses, then it is better to do this in carbonate, not thickening plantings, carrying out frequent airing.

Correctly selected varieties are a reliable means of protection. Absolutely resistant varieties have not yet been bred. But there are relatively stable ones, capable of yielding crops before the mass riot of late blight, which MirSovetov will list:

You can make the solution yourself. Add a bar of adhesive laundry soap and a sachet of copper sulphate to a bucket of water. You can also treat the bushes with wood ash infusion.

It is not worth using preparations with copper - after all, there is always a ripening crop in the greenhouse. It is better to use folk methods. The same infusions of garlic, onions or milk solution. They are described in folk recipes further in the article.

For prevention, they water the earth with drugs

4. Low temperatures are also a reason for the prevention of tomatoes from late blight.

How to keep tomatoes from late blight

It would be nice to plant marigolds among tomato bushes. Whoever says anything, but the smell of these flowers scares away pests.

If you are interested in the question of how to deal with late blight on tomatoes, then you should try to mulch the soil under the plants. This method greatly reduces the chances of the appearance of this disease, because it is caused by spores of the micro fungus that lives in the ground. If you are interested in how to deal with late blight on tomatoes in a safe way, then you should buy a 10% solution of calcium chloride at the pharmacy, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1: 4. The resulting preparation must be sprayed on the sepals of flowers and stalks, because phytophthora from them enters the fruit.

A good result is given by spraying with a solution of wood ash, which contains all the trace elements necessary for normal life. And the alkalis present in it also have a detrimental effect on many plant infections. The solution is prepared as follows: 250-300 g of ash is diluted in 10 liters of water, soap is added and processing is carried out.

Likes:

Periodically dust the soil with ash around the trunks, this noticeably slows down the development of late blight.

Pleasing, Danko, Buyan;

If all folk remedies have been tried and do not help, then you have to use chemistry. There are many different tools in garden stores. The most workers are fungicides. Disease spores also adapt to different chemicals, so they will have to be rotated to have a different composition. Use them carefully. Only before the fruits ripen. If the tomatoes are already starting to pour, then chemistry cannot be used. Poison your crop.

You can spray tomatoes with just water and iodine. Take 10 ml of the usual 5% iodine in a bucket of water. Before use, you need to remove all yellowed and diseased leaves with dark spots. Spray completely bushes and fruits. After 3 days, repeat the procedure.

How to cultivate the land after phytophthora

Phytosporin If the weather is dry and sunny, then infection usually does not occur. Spores die in the sun. Phytophthora often affects tomatoes and therefore it is important for gardeners to protect their tomatoes in the second half of summer. How to protect tomatoes from late blight, how to save diseased bushes? What drugs to use for phytophthora, and what folk remedies will help with the disease. How to process tomatoes in a greenhouse to keep them from late blight? I recommend everyone to remember and not tempt fate: phytophthora to varying degrees (depending on the weather) has always been, is and will be, and you have to be constantly ready for it. Knowing how to deal with late blight on tomatoes, you can save at least part of the harvest. At the first signs, you need to immediately cut off the untied flowers, because, on the one hand, they are a source of infection, and on the other, they pull juices from the bush, interfering with the ripening of the formed fruits. Next, you should remove all spoiled, as well as the lower leaves. The plant should gradually get rid of them, and by mid-July, only the top should be left, covering the last pouring brush.

How to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse

During the summer, you can spray it with potassium permanganate with a slightly pink solution several (3 - 5 times). It protects against damage by various diseases and at the same time is a foliar feeding.

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Do not overuse nitrogen fertilization. The introduction of fresh manure, excess nitrogen contribute to late blight. Fruit ripening is accelerated by the introduction of potassium and phosphorus, these elements increase resistance to disease.
Tatiana, Dubrava, Profitable, Little Prince;
Chemical remedies are also not a panacea. You need to start using them from seedling age and repeat the treatments several times. Especially if the summer is rainy and cold.

What to do with late blight on tomatoes if it appears in the greenhouse?

The best treatment is disease prevention. One must try to avoid unfavorable conditions.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Garlic infusion

The first symptoms of the disease appear where moisture persists longer - on the lower leaves. All bushes should be inspected daily and protective measures should be taken - for example, spraying with garlic infusion.

At the end of the same month, you should pinch the tomatoes to stop their growth. In order for the fruits to ripen sooner, it is necessary to create a stressful situation for the plant. To do this, you can cut off part of the roots, thereby reducing the supply of nutrients, reduce watering, and do not apply top dressing. Under these conditions, tomatoes will accelerate fruit ripening.

Milk solution or whey

Spray the soil around the stem and ovary with Fitosporin, after 2 weeks.

You should know that late blight is a fungus that is found in the ground. It can infect all plants within a few days and destroy the crop. Therefore, you need to know under what conditions this disease appears.

Salt solution

Calcium is a good defender against fungal infections, so it is useful to spray with calcium nitrate.

Orange pear, Carrot, Japanese tree, Sunny;

By and large, there are no such varieties. All tomatoes are affected by late blight. Though last years develop cherry varieties that can withstand the invasion of phytophthora. I have not tried to grow such. Early varieties can be conditionally considered resistant to late blight. They just have time to give the harvest earlier.

Treatment of late blight on tomatoes in the open field

To prepare the garlic infusion, take 200 grams of garlic (can be replaced with onions) and insist in a bucket of water for a day. After straining, diseased plants and tomatoes are sprayed. Spraying should be repeated every 2 weeks. Trichodermin Tomatoes love dry weather. Strong humidity in warm weather, and even faster in cool weather, leads to illness. It starts from the lower leaves, where more moisture accumulates. It is necessary to constantly check the lower leaves and if they begin to darken, remove immediately.

Late blight

We take 150-200 g of garlic in a bucket of water, chop it, fill it with water and leave for several hours, and add soap to stick the solution to the leaves.

Phytophthora is a fungal disease that occurs when the earth is overmoistened and lack sunlight... And from the ground they get infected

Late blight resistant varieties

10 drops of iodine, 2 tbsp. l of ash, 2 l of whey per 10 l of water, mix everything and process once every two weeks.

Appears in cold and humid weather. First of all, the lower leaves are affected (dark spots appear on them), then the whole plant and the fruits on it.

How to keep harvested tomatoes from late blight

To speed up the setting of small fruit trees, you need to spray the foliage with a solution of boric acid, which is prepared from 10 liters of water and a teaspoon of boric acid. About a liter of solution is needed per square meter of planting. This is how foliar feeding is done.

Is it possible to eat tomatoes with late blight

White filling 241, Grand, Grotto;

Photo of the cherry variety in the greenhouse

belochka77.ru

Phytophthora on tomatoes

Dilute the milk in water (100 grams per liter) and spray the tomatoes. You can replace milk with kefir. Lactic acid bacteria prevent phytophthora from developing. You can add a few drops of iodine to the milk water. Such spraying will not only help against late blight, but will also serve as a fertilizer for your tomatoes. It is better to repeat it every 2 weeks too.

Why does late blight occur?

... If there was a massive disease, then you need to burn all the diseased bushes, and pour the fungicide on the ground.

Alarming symptoms

As already mentioned, it is imperative to pick off excess leaves and stepsons from tomatoes. The lower leaves are removed to the first ripening brush constantly. Yellowing and drying leaves are also cut off. It is important to create good ventilation for the tomato plantings.

Prevention measures

- This is a fungal disease, the spores of this fungus hibernate in the ground, but mainly spread in potato tubers, in which they safely survive the winter, and wake up with spring plantings.

If the summer is bad, endless daily rains turn the land into a swamp, then preventive spraying will not help at all here. We use Bordeaux mixture.
- Late blight tomatoes, potatoes and other garden plants
- Treatment with preparations containing copper is Hom, Oxyhom, Profit and others.
- It is necessary to remove the lower leaves to the fruit, then to the next one and pierce the trunk with a piece of copper wire at a distance of 3 - 5 cm from the ground.
- When you have already harvested the entire crop, then burn all plant residues. Then the soil should be dug up and disinfected.
- Barnaul cannery, Siberian early ripening, Ranetochka;
- You can save part of the crop if the disease has already attacked the plantings. To do this, you need to warm up the fruits in hot water. Water 60 ° C is poured into a bowl and the tomatoes are lowered there. You need to keep them until warmed up, but not boil them. The hand usually tolerates this temperature a little. But it is better to look at the thermometer and add hot water as it cools. Then the tomatoes are dried and ripened.
You can spray tomatoes with a whey solution (diluted with water 1 to 1) - the effect is the same as with milk solution. This solution is good for prophylaxis all summer long. Without waiting for the onset of the disease.
In the greenhouse, tomatoes are well protected from late blight. Even if it's cold and damp outside, they have many advantages. The greenhouse creates its own climate, which can be regulated. Do not forget to ventilate, as well as prophylaxis.
You can cover the rows of tomatoes on top with foil or covering material so that it hangs on the sides without touching the ground. This will maintain airing, and the tomatoes will be sheltered from the night cold dews.
Therefore, the first late blight affects potatoes, and then the spores fly to the tomatoes. Phytophthora begins with the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves, then they move to the stems and fruits. The lower leaves are affected first. Stains may be different shapes and size. At the beginning of the disease, there is a whitish coating on the leaves.
Bordeaux mixture is the least dangerous chemistry, besides, even if it rains every day, the leaves remain bluish for a long time.
Tomato varieties are one hundred percent resistant to late blight, but there are hybrids that are more resistant to this disease.
Do not water over the leaves and reduce the humidity in the greenhouse and increase the temperature in cold weather.
14 days after planting seedlings on the beds (and then four more times every 10 days), it is useful to spray with such a solution: 1.5 cups of chopped garlic (cloves or arrows), 1.5 grams of potassium permanganate are taken for 10 liters of water. Infusion lasts 2 hours, followed by straining and spraying.
Junior F1, Berry, Snezhana.
After such treatment by heating, phytophthora spores die and these tomatoes are quite edible. Well, you yourself will not want to eat sick fruits - they are black. Green unripe tomatoes from diseased bushes can be used in winter salads and harvesting.

Tomato processing

Popular wisdom also advises sprinkling tomato bushes with a simple solution table salt(one glass per bucket of water). This solution protects tomatoes from various diseases; after drying, it forms a film on the fruits. Repeat spraying after rains.

Do not thicken the planting.

Prevention of late blight can be called the complete mulching of the earth under the planting of tomatoes.

The fruits become sick through the stalk. They may remain clean at first, but brown stains appear on them during storage. This disease can destroy all tomato plantings in a few days.

Pour 8 liters of ordinary water into an enameled bucket, dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate in 1 liter of warm (about 50 °) water and pour this solution into the bucket, stir.

"Katya F1" Ultra-early hybrid from germination to fruiting 75 - 80 days. Resistant to top of fruit rot, late blight, cracking.

A good remedy for phytophthora, after planting tomatoes, it is imperative to mulch the soil 20-30 cm with dry grass, newspapers, covering material so that this fungus from the ground does not infect tomatoes.

Late blight resistance increases with such irrigation. First, a solution is made: for 10 liters of water, 30 grams of potassium chloride and 40 drops of iodine tincture from the pharmacy go. Pour 500 ml of this solution under each plant.

When to plant tomatoes in 2018 lunar calendar?

Caring for tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Planting tomatoes for seedlings in 2017

Photo

Phytophthora on tomatoes is a real scourge of today's gardeners. This disease makes everyone who finds it on their site horrified. Late blight has spread so much throughout our country that absolutely every vegetable grower has seen it. Moreover, only 35-40 years ago no one knew about this disease and had not heard anything about it.

In this article I would like to talk about the essence of this disease, what it is. Tell about the signs, methods of control and prevention. Everything will be clearly shown in the photo. All tomato diseases.

Phytophthora on tomatoes

Phytophthora on tomatoes Is a disease caused by a fungus called late blight. Phytophthora is such a rapidly developing disease that it can destroy the entire tomato crop in just a few days. It is tomatoes that are most often exposed to this unpleasant disease - they are in a special risk zone. The name of the disease in translation means “plant eater”.

Phytophthora is a lower genus of mushrooms from the Phytophthora family. There are about 40 types. 20 of them were seen on the territory of Russia. The most dangerous for plants is Ph. Infestans. This fungus just harms potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants, and it is with it that we most often deal. The birthplace of this disease is presumably Mexico.

The mycelium of the fungus spreads in the intercellular spaces of the tissues. Incubation period diseases on tomatoes can last from 3 to 14 days, depending on external conditions. Contributes to the rapid development of the disease - high relative humidity and warmth.

The disease is very resistant to conditions environment, that is, it can live in the tops of plants throughout the winter, and begin to develop with the appearance of heat. That is why it is recommended to either burn the old tops of tomatoes or subject them to complete composting.

Phytophthora on tomatoes is capable of developing even in rather cold weather - from 10 degrees. The spores of the fungus can rain into the upper layers of the soil and make it infectious to plants. Painful spores can also be transmitted downwind from plant to plant.

This disease affects not only tomatoes, but also potatoes and eggplants, since these crops are genetically close to each other. Most often, late blight affects already adult plants, when ovaries and large fruits are already formed on them.

At first, the disease does not manifest itself in any way, but during this period the plant can be painlessly helped.

Today, there are many varieties and hybrids of tomatoes that are quite resistant to late blight, however, they are likely to become infected. These include such varieties as: Dubrava, Moskvich, Profitable, Grotto, Yablonka Rossii and others.

Signs of late blight

Late blight is popularly called tomato rot. In fact, the signs of phytophthora very much resemble ordinary rot.

The disease can affect all aerial parts of tomatoes - fruits, leaves, stems. As a rule, first of all, black spots appear on the leaves, then the fruits and ultimately the stem are affected. In the end, the plant simply dies.

The manifestation of the disease on the leaves

Black or grayish-brown spots of irregular shape appear on the leaves. In rainy weather, when the relative humidity of the air is very high, these spots begin to be covered with a very peculiar oily light coating. This plaque is precisely the fungus that contributes to the infection of other neighboring plants with the help of the wind.

With late blight, inflorescences begin to turn yellow and turn black very actively. Ultimately, they dry up and fall off, not having time to form fruit.

Progressive late blight on the fruit of the plant

First, subcutaneous black-brown spots appear on the fruits, which quickly increase and the disease progresses. Typically, spots begin to appear at the bottom of the fruit. This is explained by the fact that there is a lot of humidity, since less sunlight falls there. At first, the tomato is hard, but as the disease progresses, it quickly softens.

The stem is the last to be exposed to the development of the disease.

Uneven dark spots appear on the stem of the plant. With an increase in the relative humidity of the air, a kind of white bloom begins to appear on them.

Phytophthora on tomatoes contributes to a very rapid oppression of the plant. The main symptom is the appearance of dark spots. It is almost impossible to confuse this with another disease. When one infected bush appears, others immediately appear, the infection occurs very quickly. The plant, as it were, rots outside, hitting the tomato bush deeper and deeper, leading to more and more dire consequences.

If your tomatoes grow in a neighboring garden with potatoes, then there is a very high probability of rapid spread, this also needs to be paid attention to. Potatoes are affected by late blight the fastest.

Fight against late blight

Boric acid

Fighting late blight is a very difficult task. And to be more precise, today there are no drugs that can destroy the disease by 100%.

Phytophthora on tomatoes is spread by transmission from plant to plant. As a rule, the disease begins to manifest itself on 1-3 plants. The first thing to do as a treatment is to completely isolate diseased plants from presumably healthy ones. The most effective way is to pull out the infected bush by the roots. Subsequently, it is better to burn it immediately, so as not to spread the infection. This will insure healthy plants. If you find a diseased plant in the greenhouse, pull it out and provide good ventilation to prevent high humidity.

In the event that a significant part of the plants have undergone late blight, then chemical active substances... For treatment, soluble powder preparations are used. They are dissolved in water in a certain proportion and sprayed on all plants. The most effective in the treatment of phytophthora are boric acid, the drug "Gamair" and "Fitosporin - M". Before use, be sure to read the instructions and follow them. Most often, tomatoes are sprayed once a week for treatment.

In addition to special drugs, they are sold in any store for summer residents, they often use folk affinities, which give no less or even greater effect than purchased ones. chemical means.

Traditional methods of dealing with late blight on tomatoes

Traditional methods of combating late blight show themselves quite effectively in different conditions. I would like to cite a few of the most effective folk methods.

Very good in the fight against late blight helps ordinary saline solution... To prepare the solution, add 1 cup of table salt to 10 liters of water and sprinkle on the plants. Just before that, it is recommended to cut off the dark leaves and fruits from the plants. As soon as the solution dries, it forms a film that will protect against the spread of mycelium.

An iodine solution can be used. For 10 liters of water, add 20-30 drops of iodine and one liter of low-fat milk. Plants are sprayed with this mixture. This method is very effective in combating late blight on tomatoes.

Very interesting folk way fight against late blight. Take a copper wire and cut a piece of 3-5 centimeters from it, then sand it a little with sandpaper. With a cut piece, pierce the tomato bush at the very bottom and leave the wire there. There is an opinion that copper wire will supply the plant with the required amount of copper, which will prevent phytophthora from developing.

Prevention of phytophthora

It is much better to make timely prevention than to fight a disease that will damage your crop in any case. There are plenty of preventive measures for phytophthora today, and below I would like to cite a number of mandatory preventive measures that block the development of this very dangerous disease.

Phytophthora on tomatoes does not like the “smell” of garlic. The fact is that garlic secretes an enzyme that prevents late blight from developing. Therefore, combine planting garlic and tomato. You can plant these vegetables in adjacent beds. But it is best to plant garlic around the entire garden with tomatoes in 1-2 rows. If possible, you can plant garlic in the aisle.

As a preventive measure, it can be very effective to spray and water tomatoes with garlic solution. For cooking, take 1-2 cups of garlic pulp (crushed heads, ground tops, etc.) and stir in 1 bucket of water. Let it brew a little and pour half a liter under each bush.

Prevention should be carried out not only during the growing season, but also after. After complete harvesting, the tops of the plants are either buried in a special place for this, or burned.

Tomatoes love dryness, so keep them dry. This is especially true for greenhouses. Provide good ventilation and water the plants only at the root, avoiding leaves and stems.

When growing, avoid dense planting, do not plant bushes too close to each other. If you neglect this, then late blight will develop very quickly and most likely you will not have time to save all your plantings.

Never set up a tomato bed next to potatoes. These vegetables are most susceptible to late blight.

Before planting, be sure to disinfect the seeds and soil with a solution of potassium permanganate. Also, be sure to sprinkle ash on the soil before planting.

Tomatoes should be weeded and loosened on time.

Do not add fresh animal manure to the soil, as it can cause infection.

In the case of growing tomatoes in open ground, in unfavorable weather, which can contribute to the development of the disease, all fruits must be removed from the plants and allowed to ripen in a warm, dry room. Otherwise, you can immediately lose the entire crop.

If late blight on tomatoes is a frequent guest in your garden, then you should think about changing the variety. Today there are many varieties and hybrids of tomatoes that are very resistant to this unpleasant disease. Then the risks of damage to your crop will be minimized.

Phytophthora on tomatoes - photo

See also a photo of this terrible disease. In the photo you can see the extent of the defeat of the tomato crop.

Photo Late blight struck the stepson Phytophthora photo Affected stem Affected fruits photo

Phytophthora on tomatoes - video

Also watch a selection of videos, which will tell you in detail how to fight.

The topic is immense, read the same:

When to plant seedlings? Planting tomato seedlings in a greenhouse Planting tomatoes in open ground Feeding tomatoes with yeast Grassing tomatoes in a greenhouse Why do tomato leaves turn yellow? Watering tomatoes in a greenhouse Mulching tomatoes Why do tomatoes turn black? When to plant tomatoes for seedlings in 2017 according to the lunar calendar? Caring for tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse. When to plant tomatoes in 2018 according to the lunar calendar?

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

Late blight- This is a fungal disease, which mainly affects various varieties of tomatoes. Brown spots appear on the stems and leaves, a faint white bloom forms on the underside of the leaf, and the green fruits turn black. This is a disease that can destroy your entire tomato crop in a few days. And this disease, especially recently, is found everywhere. Therefore, let's first consider the conditions and causes of late blight, and then the methods and methods of dealing with this disease.

It is worth noting that Blackening of tomatoes- this is not a sign of a specific disease, but a plant's reaction to many types of diseases and unfavorable conditions for growth and maturation. Blackening of tomatoes at the ripening stage can also cause ordinary rot, dry soil or excess moisture, excess or lack of fertilizers, various plant pests and other reasons. But still the most common reason is a disease of late blight.

Name late blight It came from the name of the causative agent of this disease of the same name - the fungus Phytophthora infestans. It translates as "destroying plant", and fully corresponds to emu, destroying the organism of the plant into which it falls. And late blight infects not only tomatoes, but also other plants of the Solanaceae family, although it also does not spare strawberries, castor oil plants, and buckwheat. Tomatoes are close relatives of eggplants and potatoes, which, after tomatoes, are most susceptible to the destructive effect of late blight. Therefore, it is not advisable to plant these vegetables in close proximity to each other.

Causes and conditions of late blight disease

In fact, there are quite a few reasons for the occurrence of this disease for plants.

- Phytophthora usually develops where there is not enough air. That is why it is recommended to pinch tomatoes of all varieties, and especially tall ones, because, growing, they limit their stems in the air and are most susceptible to late blight.

- Quite often, outbreaks of this disease occur in protected ground, under a film shelter, because due to sharp fluctuations in temperature day and night on inside the film forms abundant condensation, and moisture accumulates on the plants. Fungal infection occurs by spores, but the zoospore definitely needs water. The spore swims up to the stomata, penetrates into the plant organism, grows into the tissue and does its "dirty" job.

- Usually, the first signs of phytophthora first appear on the leaves of potatoes, and on tomatoes they can only be noticed after 8-10 days. The fact is that the causative agent of the disease is mainly preserved on the potato tubers, and at the first favorable conditions, the disease manifests itself on this crop, and then on the tomatoes.

- Rain and cold create all conditions for the development of phytophthora. During the rainy season, tomatoes need to be provided with greenhouse conditions in order to harvest.

- Failure to comply with the optimal temperature regime for tomato plants (19-22 degrees), especially often such situations occur at the end of summer, when the nights are quite cool, so during these periods you need to be especially careful.

How is it transmittedLate blight

Below is a diagram of development and reproduction using the example of potatoes.

This infection, among other things, like many others, is transmitted by all available means - and through infected tubers, and through seeds, and through the soil. We transfer it with our feet from site to site, wash it off the affected leaves onto the soil. And the infection persists for a very long time in the soil, especially if there are not enough copper salts in it. If the fungus has already entered the potato organism, then you can get rid of it only by interrupting the chain of infections - that is, by destroying the infected tuber and completely clearing the soil from spores. This is, of course, extremely difficult. But it is possible if you systematically engage in prevention and take timely measures to eliminate and spread this insidious disease.

We determine the reason for the blackening of a plant or fruit in general.

As mentioned earlier, late blight, although the most likely, is not the only reason for blackening tomatoes.
Therefore, at the beginning It is necessary to determine what caused the disease (blackening) of the fruits.

- If the blackness spreads throughout the tomato, and the flesh under it is hard and devoid of juice, then the plant has been struck by dry apical rot. It appears when the soil is excessively salinized, which happens when a large amount of fertilizer is applied. The way out is simple: you need to stop feeding for a while. In addition, rot can appear with a lack of calcium. In this case, you can spray the tomatoes with a solution of calcium nitrate.

- Tomatoes can turn black also due to very dry soil and the so-called "crawling" of the roots to the surface. Tomatoes in this case will intensively absorb moisture from the air, which usually occurs unevenly. Because of this, some fruits can turn black and spoil again.

- The reason for the darkening of the green fruits of the tomato may be a lack of fertilizer. Usually blackening occurs when tomatoes lack magnesium or boron. Top dressing in this case must be done in two stages - first add a little magnesium sulfate, and after a couple of days add boric acid. If blackening continues to appear on new fruits, then their reason is probably the development of a culture disease.

- Another reason for stains can also be a lack of boron and magnesium, tomatoes are very sensitive to the lack of these elements, in this situation they make top dressing with a solution of boric acid and 1% magnesium sulfate.

- Diseases from which tomatoes darken are the worst option for the crop, since in this case, return the tomatoes to normal state will be very difficult. The fungal disease could spread to tomatoes in various ways - from a neighboring crop, be carried by the wind along with harmful spores, or, which happens much more often, simply expect a crop in the soil. If the darkening began to affect not only the fruits, but also the stems and leaves, then there is certainly a manifestation of phytophthora.

All aerial parts of the plant are affected, but especially green fruits. First, small brown spots are formed on the upper side of plant leaves, scattered mainly along the edge of the leaf blade. At high humidity, a whitish bloom appears on the underside of the leaves. The leaves turn yellow and dry out.

Then the disease spreads to fruits, mostly green. Vague hard spots of various shapes and colors appear on the fruits - brown, green, vague. In this case, the rot zone rapidly increases in size and penetrates deep into the fruit.

There has already been a separate article on how to properly grow tomato seedlings.

Methods and ways of dealing with late blight.

The first and main remedy in the fight against late blight is prevention... This is the most effective and least costly. To begin with, it is necessary to exclude the influence of all factors that provoke the development of late blight.

- Potatoes are affected by late blight the very first, so it is important to properly care for this plant in order to prevent the spread fungal disease throughout the site. To do this, many gardeners carefully examine and remove all leaves from the tops of potatoes that indicate the onset of the disease. These are mainly foliage, which is located at the very bottom of the potato stem (there is the most humid and favorable environment for phytophthora). Additional hilling is also used so that the potato tubers are not too close to the surface of the ground and are not affected by the disease. You can also make a kind of barriers from climbing plants(beans, green pea), between potatoes and tomatoes so that the virus does not get on the fruits and leaves of tomatoes.

- Tomatoes are good to grow in a greenhouse - this helps to control the level of temperature and humidity. In this case, regular ventilation is important.
Before planting seedlings, the soil is prepared for this: such a site is chosen to exclude unwanted neighborhood with other crops; also, the surface of the soil is cleaned of last year's debris - the remains of potato tops, cabbage stumps, since it is in them that the sleeping phytophthora is possibly hiding, which is waiting for favorable conditions for its prosperity.

- When planting tomatoes, remember that it is better to plant the crop in a moderately ventilated place. In such conditions, moisture will not accumulate on the leaves too often and in large quantities.

- Phytophthora develops in conditions of high humidity, therefore it is not recommended to water the culture too often. Water only at the root. However, due to unfavorable weather conditions, such as morning dew and fog, moisture can accumulate on the leaves by itself. In this case, it is advisable to spray the plants without waiting for the first signs of the disease with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

- Do not water the plant with a hose, and it is best to choose the morning for the watering procedure. The evening moisture left on the culture will be a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria all night, while the morning water, which has not had time to be absorbed, will quickly evaporate.

- It is also necessary to check the lower leaves of tomatoes, especially at the edges - after all, it is there that moisture accumulates most of all, and late blight begins its destructive work. If you find blackened fruits on a tomato, they must be removed immediately and burned. The same applies to plants, the stems and leaves of which are covered with corresponding darkening. Checking will prevent late blight from spreading to other tomato plants in time.

- In order to avoid the spread of fungal spores, burn potato and tomato tops, rather than put them in compost

- When storing fruits, they should be warmed up at a temperature of about 40 ° C. This technique significantly reduces the development of late blight on the removed fruits.

How to treat tomatoes from phytophthora?

Both prophylactic and therapeutic treatments should be carried out in dry and calm weather, and the number of chemical treatments directly depends on the weather conditions of the season. If summer period abounds in rains, spraying should be carried out as often as possible (about five times per summer). Constant feeding of tomatoes with means that strengthen the plant's immunity will be very effective in the fight against late blight.

There are both folk remedies and biologically active drugs for phytophthora.

Infusion of garlic with potassium permanganate

100 grams of garlic (you can take onions, and arrows, and leaves) are crushed in a meat grinder, poured into a glass of water and infused for 24 hours. Then it is filtered, diluted with 10 liters of water and 1 gram of potassium permanganate is added.

The spores of the fungus are killed by garlic. The first spraying should be carried out before the formation of the ovary, the second - 10 days after the first. Then, if you spray the tomato bushes with garlic infusion every 12-15 days, the result will be

Milk serum

Serum from sour milk is diluted with water in equal parts. Starting from the first days of July, you can spray tomatoes with milk whey every day. Prophylactic agent.

Milk with iodine

In 10 liters of water, dissolve 1 liter of skim milk and add 15-20 drops of iodine. Tomatoes must be sprayed with this remedy every two weeks.

Ash

A week after planting the seedlings, all the aisles are powdered with ash before watering. The procedure is repeated when fruits begin to set.

Infusion of rotten straw or hay

One kilogram of rotten hay is poured with 10 liters of water, a handful of urea is added and left to infuse for 3-4 days. The strained infusion is sprayed with tomatoes in 1.5-2 weeks.

Yeast

In 10 liters of water, 100 grams of yeast are diluted and tomatoes are watered at the first signs of late blight.

Salt

1 glass of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water and large, but still green fruits are sprayed with this solution once a month.
Such treatment creates a protective film on the leaves, which will keep the infection from entering through the stomata. But! it must be remembered that this is a preventive measure, not a treatment, so first carefully examine the bush and remove the already damaged leaves!

"Copper" piercing

Anneal a thin copper wire (you can clean it with sandpaper), cut into pieces of 3-4 cm. At a distance of 10 cm from the soil, make a puncture of the stem, insert a piece of wire, bend the ends down. Do not wrap around the stem!

A well-proven method: wrapping the roots of the seedlings before planting in the ground with copper wire. You can use copper wire in a different way: pierce the stem of the tomato. Microdoses of copper stabilize chlorophyll, stimulate plant respiration and enhance oxidative processes. This strengthens the plant and makes it more resistant to infection.
Attention! This procedure is done only when the tomato stem becomes strong.

Copper sulfate solution

For 10 liters of water, take 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate and process the plants once before flowering.

Calcium nitrate solution

Calcium nitrate 1 tablespoon in 10 liters of water. The same solution can be sprayed over the leaves.

Trichopolus

1 tablet of "Trichopolum" is dissolved in 1 liter of water and tomatoes are sprayed every two weeks.

Fitosporin

Divorced according to the instructions. Before planting, dip the seedlings in a phytosporin solution. The first spraying should be done when the first ovaries appear and then spray the plants every 10 days. In addition, you can spill the soil in the greenhouse with a solution of "Fitosporin" before planting or add the drug to the irrigation water every time.

Calcium chloride

Finally, the plants are prophylactically treated before flowering, as well as when the first signs of the disease appear. All the same, it is better to prevent the disease than to fight it later.

How to deal with phytophthora on tomatoes

Tomatoes are fed in July mineral fertilizers every 10 days. You can use a solution of crimson potassium permanganate or urea, potassium chloride and superphosphate. But it is best to feed with organic fertilizers, alternating a 1:10 mullein solution with an ash infusion (1 glass per 10 liters of water). The condition of tomatoes can be judged by their appearance... If the leaves curl, exclude superphosphate from the dressings and increase the proportion of potassium chloride and urea. If flowering and fruiting are delayed, nitrogen fertilizing is excluded. When the flowers fall, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of boric acid 1 g per 1 liter of water, and when the ovaries fall off, they are fed with a mullein solution (1:10), adding a matchbox of ammonium nitrate or urea to it. Galina Zhikulina

If the disease has just begun, then you can spray the tomatoes with a solution of iodine (10 ml of 5% iodine per 10 liters of water), repeat after 3 days. By the way, the solution costs unlimited time, but only closed, in a dark place, and it can be used to spray other plants against all fungal diseases.

Try sprinkling tomatoes with garlic infusion (chop 100 g of garlic cloves, pour 2 liters of water, cover, leave for half an hour and pour this gruel over the fruits) so that phytophthora does not pass to the fruits. Or use a yeast solution (100 g yeast per 10 liters of water) to protect the leaves and fruits.

At severe defeat late blight diseased leaves must be removed and burned, and the fruits should be sprayed with a 1% solution of calcium chloride (a pharmacy sells a 10% solution of calcium chloride in bottles of 200 ml. The bottle should be dissolved in 2 liters of water). Especially carefully you need to spray the stalk, since late blight penetrates the fetus through it.

After harvesting tomatoes heavily affected by late blight, it is necessary to lower the fruits for 10 minutes in a hot (40 ° C) solution of potassium permanganate color pink... Do not make the solution too dark on the skin of the fruit, a burn is formed. After taking out the fruits, you need to wash them with water and wipe them dry. After that, they can be folded for storage by wrapping each fruit in paper. Then phytophthora will not pass from one fruit to another, if suddenly one of them still starts to deteriorate. Galina

For the development of phytophthora, in addition to high humidity, it is necessary to lower the temperature, not until frost, but nevertheless, after this, it necessarily appears. In areas where there are institutions (branches) of the Rosselkhoztsentr with protection departments - there the local forecast for the likelihood of late blight appears in 7-10 days. And when such a forecast appears, it is necessary to immediately process, and not when the first symptoms become visible on the leaves, at this stage it is all late. And if, after a cold snap, treatments begin immediately, then phytophthora does not exist. But unfortunately, I do not do this at home every year ... and never the neighbors, although I tell them, they say it's time, and every year they see that everything is green, and they have everything brown for a long time. After the rain, you need to repeat the treatment ...

The greenhouse saves if everything is closed there on these critical nights and the temperature there does not drop to the street temperature, but if it does, it will be the same. The presence of the infection itself, if there is no decrease, does not lead to an outbreak of the disease. Sergey Kostenko

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Based on the materials replies @ mail. ru and the answers of our readers.

The most formidable and widespread disease of late blight tomatoes

You have sprinkled tomatoes several times with chemicals for phytophthora. After processing, you cannot eat them for 20 days. The fruits will ripen soon. And the weather is unimportant: damp, wet. If there is little time left before harvesting, use harmless tomato protection products, such as iodine.
Take a liter jar, pour 100 g of low-fat (settled) milk at the bottom. Top up with water up to a liter. Drop 1-2 drops of iodine (no more needed so as not to burn the leaves). It is convenient to pour iodine into Corvalol, Valerian bottles and drip from them. The iodine solution destroys microbes, accelerates the ripening of fruits.
You can also use garlic infusion. Chop 40-50 g of garlic in a garlic bowl, dilute in 10 liters of water. After the sediment has settled, strain and sprinkle. If it rains, the treatment must be repeated. If the tomatoes are sick and you feel that it is better to remove them, then before storing them, hold them for 1-2 minutes in water at a temperature of 50-60 ° C.
You can mix hot water with cold water in the tap, so that the running stream is 50-60 ° C. Use a water thermometer to measure the temperature. Substitute the tomatoes in a colander under this stream. It is better to pour water, the temperature of which is 60 ° C, into an enamel bowl and dip 5-6 pieces into this water for 1 minute. Then take a mug of water, and add a hotter mug, checking its temperature each time. If you use garlic water, then you don't need it to be warm.
After such procedures, spread and dry the tomatoes, first on one side, and then, transferring them to a dry place, on the other. Of course, some of them will rot anyway, but still something will remain. It is best to pickle tomatoes without waiting for rotting. Salted green tomatoes are a delicacy for potatoes, a seasoning for pickles. You can also make salads, which must be boiled for a long time, since green tomatoes contain a toxic substance that is destroyed when salted and cooked. Many gardeners make this mistake: they sprinkle the plants with a broom. Even if you process them in this way many times, the effect will be: everything will rot. It is better to use a spray bottle, and you should process not only the leaves, but also the stems, fruits, flowers, supplying the stream from below, from the side, from above. Not all varieties are equally affected by late blight. Less than others - Polish, Persimmon, Ogorodnye, Michurinskie, De Barao, Khabarovsk pink, Ruzha Vilina, Polar.

With macrosporiosis, first brown spots appear on the lower, then on the upper leaves, and then the leaves die off. At the point of attachment of the fruit to the stalk, rounded black spots appear. The infection is transmitted through seeds, plant debris. The method of struggle is treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Septoria (white spot) is a disease in which leaves, stems and fruits are affected. Gray spots appear with dark dots inside. Some of the leaves die off. Fruits decrease, although seedlings are more often sick. The method of struggle is spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or other containing preparations. If the seedlings are healthy, without signs of disease, you can not process them.

White rot affects the root of the plant. Black solid formations appear on the stem. This disease most often occurs in high humidity and cold weather.
The method of struggle is spraying with copper-containing preparations.

Top rot is manifested by a brown spot on the top of the fruit that grows and darkens.
You will be glad that the tomatoes are already starting to turn red, and as soon as you pick, you find that half of it has already rotted. There are years when there are quite a few such tomatoes. This happens most often on acidic soils. Methods of struggle - moderate watering, treatment with calcium chloride (30-40 g per 10 l of water), spraying with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 1 bucket of water) during fruit setting. With late blight, brown spots form on the leaves and stems, and a faint white bloom forms on the bottom of the leaf in wet weather. Brown spots appear on green fruits, which quickly increase. The disease develops most of all during wet rainy weather. If the temperature is about 20 ° C during the day and below 10 ° C at night, there may be dew on the plants, which means - wait for an outbreak of the disease. This forecast is also unmistakable: if a disease appears on potatoes, wait for it on tomatoes in a week. If dew stays on the leaves for 4 - 5 hours, then the likelihood of late blight increases. That is why if tomatoes are planted behind trees so that the morning sun does not remove dew from the plants, then late blight eats these plants even before the August dews.
The fight against late blight is not only the treatment of tomatoes with drugs, you also need:
1) plant tomatoes early under the film so that they grow to fogs;
2) when planting in spring, do not put fresh manure and do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers so that the tomatoes begin to ripen earlier;
3) put superphosphate and ash under each bush when planting, observing the dosage;
4) if tomatoes grow poorly, sprinkle them with micronutrient fertilizers;
5) use infusions and decoctions of herbs: horsetail, wheatgrass, nettle and others. Plants can be prophylactically sprayed from late June - early July, or even two weeks after planting. It depends on the weather conditions. All copper-containing preparations are suitable for spraying: copper oxychloride, medica, copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, "Oxyhom", "Kuprozan", "Tsi-Neb" and others. You need to use them only according to the instructions, observing all precautions. Good and easy to use drugs "Bravo" and "Penncoceb-80", however, they are expensive. A more affordable Bordeaux mixture, which must be used, strictly adhering to the instructions ^ so as not to burn the plants / In a word, use everything that is in stores. Treatment with the drug "Oxyhom" must be carried out in a block, that is, at least two, one after the other. Only with this application, the systemic qualities of the drug can be fully manifested. Young, actively growing plants should be sprayed, since it is at these stages that they best absorb systemic drug and it spreads faster through the plant, providing complete protection against disease. The interval between treatments is 10-12, maximum 14 days. During the treatment, the plant must be completely covered with the solution. Before processing, the Oxychoma tablet must be thoroughly dissolved so that all the grains melt. This drug is convenient in that it is enough to dissolve the tablet in 5 liters of water (instructions are attached) - and you can sprinkle the plant. If you need a third, or even a fourth treatment, carry it out with "Oxyhom" or Bordeaux mixture. After that, proceed to spraying the plants with iodine (see at the end of the section), garlic infusion. The new fungicidal set "Fungi-Mar" is developed on the basis of a Bordeaux mixture with the addition of macro - and micronutrient fertilizers and is a preparation of multifactorial effects. It saves plants from fungal and bacterial diseases, and also provides fertilizing with nitrogen and micronutrient fertilizers (boron, iron, calcium, cobalt, magnesium, manganese, copper, molybdenum, sulfur, zinc). Under the influence of the drug, the yield increases noticeably and its quality improves. Blackleg is most often seen on seedlings and seedlings. The affected plant falls. If the soil is healthy and the seeds are disinfected, then the disease can be avoided if the crops are not thickened. Calculate how many bushes you need and let the seedlings grow free. Do not over-water. You can cut off the diseased part, put the plant in water, and the roots will grow back. Dip them in a potassium permanganate solution before planting. In general, it is better to discard the damaged plants, and water the rest with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

It happens that in greenhouses and on open plantings in warm, humid weather, the stems turn black. The spots are located along the stem of the petioles. In other places, they have so eaten into the stem that it almost collapsed. Such bushes and branches are best cut and destroyed. It's a pity, of course: sometimes clusters of fruits are already hanging on the branches. If you notice the disease early, at the first sign, then you can cover up the damage with chalk, clay, and best of all with a paste of vitriol and lime (1: 2). Make the solution with a wooden spatula.

If a scoop starts gnawing tomatoes, fumigate the fruits with ashes.

Tomatoes are a salvation from moth and sawfly for gooseberries and red currants. In large gardens, of course, tomatoes are not planted next to berry bushes, but in the conditions of small summer cottages, such a neighborhood is quite possible and, as it turns out, is very useful.

Tomatoes, like all vegetables that grow in our beds, are subject to a variety of diseases that are caused by fungi and bacteria. One of the most common among them is late blight. Although it will cause a lot of problems for tomatoes, it is still possible to fight with it and overcome it.

To combat late blight, a lot of both folk and chemical agents are used.

Chemicals for treatment and protection

Common chemicals include:

... 10 tablets of this agent are dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed with bushes. The first time they are processed, when the tomatoes are at the stage of ovary formation, and then the procedure is repeated 2 times a month.
Iodine... It is an antimicrobial agent. Therefore, gardeners love to prepare a milk-iodine solution, which will easily help you get rid of phytophthora. To prepare it, take 10 liters of water, a liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine.
Zelenka... Dissolve 40 drops of this agent in water and spray tomatoes with it.
Potassium permanganate solution... This product is an excellent seed antiseptic. They are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in this solution for 40 minutes. After that, it is washed with water and dried thoroughly.

Folk drugs

Effective folk methods include:

... To prepare it, take 200 g of chopped garlic and dissolve in a glass of warm water. After 24 hours, the substance is filtered and poured into 10 liters of water, adding there also a gram of fermented milk potassium. For treatment, you need to sprinkle the tomatoes.
Milk solution or whey... Any of these dairy products are diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio and, starting in July, tomato bushes are regularly sprayed with this remedy.
Salt solution... They need to process and protect still green tomatoes. Such a tool forms a kind of film that will prevent the penetration of infection. For its preparation, a glass of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Step-by-step processing of tomatoes from late blight

As for planting in a greenhouse, tomatoes must be planted alternating with cucumbers.

The soil in the greenhouse is a must in the fall. disinfect with copper sulfate... If the plants have already been infected with late blight, then the soil in the greenhouse should be removed with a thickness of about 5 cm.

It should also be remembered that evaporation occurs in the greenhouse and stale air is present, and this has a beneficial effect on the development of bacteria. Therefore, it is imperative to regularly ventilate the greenhouse to protect the plants from disease.

Outdoor care

It is necessary to plant the plants not too densely so that there is no rapid infection with late blight. But if there is not too much space in the greenhouse, then the tomato should definitely pick off old leaves, because they are the favorite habitat of this disease.

To avoid an outbreak of late blight, it is necessary, first of all, to follow the rules of watering. No need to pour water on the leaves. It is necessary to water the plants at the root.

If it has already happened that the tomatoes could not resist this disease, then processing in order to save them should be carried out provided that there was no rain for a day... You need to spray tomatoes in the evening or in cloudy but dry weather.

Seedling care

It is imperative to strengthen the immunity of tomato seedlings before planting them in the ground. To do this, resort to the following measures:

before planting, the plants are treated 5% Bordeaux liquid solution;
after half a month with arcerid;
after another half a month with foundation;
after that, the last 2 remedies are alternated.

The best remedy for late blight

Very effective in the fight against late blight are:

Ridomil gold... It protects tomatoes from the outside and prevents fungi from entering the tissues. To prepare this solution, you need to take 10 grams of the product and dilute it in 4 liters of water. They begin to process the plants with it during the growing season, and then repeat it every half month.
... This drug has many advantages, as it is resistant to washing off and has curative action by killing mushrooms. For its preparation, take 12 g per 10 liters. Spraying is carried out in the same way as Ramidol Gold.
... It is also resistant to precipitation and has a healing effect. Dilute 6 ml in 5 liters of water and spray the plants starting from the growing season. Processing is carried out 3 times every 2 weeks.

How is prevention carried out in a greenhouse

Of course, as in the case of other diseases, it is easier to carry out prevention than to endlessly fight late blight.

The main preventive actions include the following:

Prevent Neighborhood tomatoes with potatoes.
You should not plant these vegetables in the same place for several years in a row.
Also, do not plant tomatoes in the place where where eggplants, peppers and potatoes grew.
Do not water the tomatoes too often and abundantly.
Necessarily necessary remove bottom leaves tomato so that they touch the ground as little as possible.
Pull up weeds as they trap moisture.
The soil should not be oversaturated with nitrogen fertilizing.
When very long time the soil retains moisture, it is imperative to weed.
After harvesting, do not leave the tops for the winter in the garden; they must be burned.

How does the disease manifest

It is not at all difficult to detect signs of late blight on tomatoes:

spots appear on the underside, after which the leaves turn brown and fall;
the shoots of the plant and its fruits also turn black;
at first the vegetables become hard, and then they get softer and softer until they start to rot. So all the fruit may be lost.

When to process for the first time

The first time tomatoes are processed 1 or 2 days before planting seedlings in open ground.

After planting, the plants are sprayed again after 12 days.

Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes

Studies have shown that oospores die at 50-degree heat, because if you keep the seeds about 2 hours at this temperature, they will be disinfected.

Remember that for planting it is better to use seeds that have been collected about 3 years ago... During this period, all viruses will die, and you will receive clean material.

Conditions for the development of the disease

Tomatoes are easily infected with late blight. from potatoes, and also there are many conditions for the development of this disease.

The most common of them are:

flood rains that last about 3 days;
sudden changes in temperature day and night with a difference of 8 to 12 degrees;
dew that appears from these temperature changes;
fog;
lack of sunlight and heat;
thickened plantings;
excess nitrogen.

Phytophthora does not develop in dry weather.

How to cultivate the land after a disease

In the spring, before planting, it is imperative to treat the land from late blight. For this they take 3% copper sulfate and pour it on the ground.

Then you should thoroughly loosen the soil. To do this, use a special device that will help to mix the top cover 25 cm thick. In this, one of the best helpers will be the Tornado. It has an unusual shape and is very effective and easy to use.

And the final stage is watering the soil phytosporin... To do this, 1 tbsp. the funds are dissolved in 10 liters of water. This dose is calculated for 1 sq. M.

Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into food, therefore they should be used only in early spring.

Is it possible to eat sick fruits

If you roll up affected tomatoes in jars, they can go bad.

Do not be afraid to eat tomatoes affected by late blight. The disease is not transmitted to humans. However, black spots spoil the appearance of tomatoes, and it is very unpleasant to eat them.

As for preservation, it is not recommended to cover these tomatoes.

Their acidity may increase, and various microorganisms will multiply, due to which the taste of tomatoes will be completely spoiled.

Varieties resistant to infestation

Resistant varieties before late blight include: Brother's Gift, De-Barao, Vilina, Roton.

As you can see, dealing with late blight is easy. You just have to choose the tool you like and get to work. However, you should also adhere to the dosage, because exceeding the norm will harm the tomatoes themselves.

Is it possible to eat green tomatoes with late blight. How to deal with late blight on tomatoes, treatment of tomatoes at their summer cottage. What to do with damaged vegetables

Why does late blight occur?

Alarming symptoms

Prevention measures

Tomato processing

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How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

Prevention of disease

Signs of plant disease

Conditions conducive to disease

Folk remedies for combating late blight of tomatoes

Whey or milk infusion

Infusion of garlic or onion

Saline solution

Replenishment of tomatoes with copper ions from phytophthora

What is the principle of using copper wire

How to put the method into practice

Fighting late blight on tomatoes by chemical methods

What to do with damaged vegetables

How to save tomatoes

Is it possible to eat fruits

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

Signs of plant disease with late blight

Conditions conducive to disease

How to protect tomatoes from late blight

Folk remedies to combat late blight

Whey or milk infusion

Infusion of garlic or onion

Saline solution

Feeding tomatoes with copper ions is a proven way to protect vegetables from late blight

Fighting late blight on tomatoes by chemical methods

How to save tomatoes damaged by late blight

Can fruits damaged by late blight be eaten?

Selection of late blight-resistant tomato varieties

How to deal with late blight in tomatoes on the site

Phytophthora on tomatoes. How to treat plants in the open field and greenhouse

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

What is late blight? Signs of illness

Can I take seeds from diseased tomatoes?

Conditions for the development of phytophthora

How to keep tomatoes from late blight

How to cultivate the land after phytophthora

How to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse

What to do with late blight on tomatoes if it appears in the greenhouse?

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Garlic infusion

Milk solution or whey

Salt solution

Treatment of late blight on tomatoes in the open field

Late blight resistant varieties

How to keep harvested tomatoes from late blight

Is it possible to eat tomatoes with late blight

Phytophthora on tomatoes

Why does late blight occur?

Alarming symptoms

Prevention measures

Tomato processing

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The topic is immense, read the same:

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

Causes and conditions of late blight disease

How is it transmittedLate blight

We determine the reason for the blackening of a plant or fruit in general.

Methods and ways of dealing with late blight.

How to treat tomatoes from phytophthora?

How to deal with phytophthora on tomatoes

The most formidable and widespread disease of late blight tomatoes

Chemicals for treatment and protection

Folk drugs

Step-by-step processing of tomatoes from late blight

Outdoor care

Seedling care

The best remedy for late blight

How is prevention carried out in a greenhouse

How does the disease manifest

When to process for the first time