Hello everyone! In this section we will talk about there, how to paint a guitar Alone and how it can be done most correctly and gently. In this case, accuracy and skill are important, so if you have absolutely no experience, it is best practiced on less expensive tools, since it is likely that it may not work from the first time.
1. The first thing you have to think about the preparation of the workspace. Painting should occur in a special workshop where all conditions are created for this, clean, not dusting with already trained equipment and materials. In other places, painting the guitar is not recommended. Street is an extremely desirable option. But still, if you do not have another output, wait for warm, windless weather.
2. Next, you need to decide on the color and way of painting, the further course of action will depend on this. There are a lot of options, you can write a whole encyclopedia about this, so it makes no sense to describe the methods in this article.
What we need during the preparation and painting guitar
- Spacious, well ventilated workspace
- Desktop
- Thieves with rubber sponges, to prevent wood damage (if available)
- Protective glasses
- Respirator
- Several boxes where you can add guitar parts to facilitate the subsequent assembly
- Dug
- Soldering iron
- Waste paper to protect the surface of the desktop during painting
- Industrial hairdryer (preferably)
- Sandage of different caliber
- Pieces of matter
- Grinding machine (manual or automatic)
- Tree primer (if necessary)
- Paint
3. Then you need to prepare directly the tool itself, dismantling the guitar. We will need screwdrivers of several calibers. We remove the strings, unscrew the bolts on the opposite side of the guitar and disconnect the neck, we remove the plastic lining on the same side (if available). All items must be folded into a specially prepared box and it is desirable to even mark, otherwise something can be lost or confused in bolts.
4. Remove the plastic lining (if any) with the front side of the guitar (Picgard). Here you have to tinker tales a little t. It will be necessary to disappear collapses. We will need a soldering iron. Cut or disappear wires as close as possible to the place where they were soldered.
Two wires need to mark with color ribbon, so as not to get confused when you will get them back. Then we need to get rid of all metal parts on the guitar case. In general, the tool housing should be completely clean, without all too much.
5. Now we need to get rid of the old paint, which was covered with the tool. This can be done with the help of sandpaper, in this case there will be a lot of dust and there is a chance that you stop and damage the surface of the tool. The second option is the use of industrial hair dryer. And in that and in another case, you must work in protective glasses and respirator!
Preferably option - industrial hairdryer. It is necessary to work with a hairdryer very carefully, otherwise you can complicate your work at times or completely spoil the body. The main thing is not to overheat the case, do not put the hair dryer at the maximum temperature and do not warm one place for a long time. The deck can be glued from several parts, and the joints can disperse, you can also simply fall the wood. It is necessary to remove the paint with a spatula, without damaging the surface.
6. Removing the primary layer of paint to dare to be sandpaper of different grain grain. Rough processing for removing paint residues We use paper of 400-500 μm, then we pass 200-250 μm, the final grinding 100-125 μm and the final wet grinding 50-63 μm. You can manually or grinding machine.
7. Deca is polished. If there are small dents or scratches on the housing, it may be necessary to apply a layer of primer. The primer is applied with a clean brush along the wood fibers, if you use spray, then this task will be easier for you. You can put the ground alternately on each side until complete drying or hang the housing using the rope, selling it into the holes from the grid bolts.
When the soil dries, it will be necessary to abandon the case of fine-grained emery paper. After that, the hull must be smooth and perfectly smooth.
8. Getting directly to painting the guitar. Mostly use the paintopult, but some use aerosol cans. Paint must be applied at least two layers. The most important danger is incoming, so splashing the paint evenly and neatly. If the subcode was formed and you decided to correct this disadvantage adding a layer of paint on top, then this would be the other way around will lead to even greater subteps. It is necessary to wait for a complete drying of the layer to polish the place with a defect, then apply a new layer of paint. When painting uses acrylourethane, polyester, nitro, acrylic, polyurethane.
9. After applying paint to protect and impart glances, it is necessary to apply 2-3 layers of varnish. For drying layers, 8-hour period of time is required. At this stage, you need to be especially accurate and also avoid inclusive. If you used enamel, keep in mind that it will crack it! Polish all the layers, it will add brilliance to your instrument.
That's all, now you know how to paint a guitar. Successes!
Any sitier is a man manufacturing musical instruments - well knows the features of the execution of finishing coatings, familiar with varnishes and paints, which are suitable for this purpose. Over time, any material loses the clutch with the surface and can crack. Painting a guitar or other tools from wood is possible at home, the main thing is to choose quality varnish and observe all the steps of repair.
Painting guitar with your own hands: Instruction
To work, you need to select a ventilated room, whenever possible, so that dust does not fit on the applied coating. It should be installed a comfortable table, close it with newspapers, as well as prepare tools and materials:
- respirator, gloves, goggles;
- boxes for guitar details;
- soldering iron;
- screwdrivers;
- room hairdryer;
- sandwich with different graininess;
- rags;
- grinding machine;
- wood soil;
Preparation for painting guitar
It is recommended to practice on an old guitar that does not constitute great value. This will help to find the right skills and more accurately work with an expensive tool in the future. As preparation, you need to dismantle the guitar: disassemble it so that it can be easily restored.
Dismantling
This process requires a set of screwdrivers of different caliber. Rewrite strings, pre-unscrewing the flasks, then remove the remaining regulators, screws. They are placed in small boxes, if necessary, sign. After you unscrew the bolts behind the tool connecting the neck and the case. The neck is removed, as well as the temboel, and the output slot cover.
Most often, the wires that are fastening volume controls and tones with output socket are carried out through the hole in the guitar housing, so they cut them off from two sides to separate the dambolock. It is important to pre-mark the wires with color stickers and sign so that you can easily solder to your previous place. After you can cut off the wires of the soldering, so that most of them remain the whole.
Usually, the guitar has two, but may also be present for grounding. It is located between the pickups and the iron plank in the rear of the tool to which several springs are attached. This wire also need to trim, otherwise it will not be possible to remove the temboalk. Unscrew the plastic cover, get to the ground wire, in the same way note the sticker and cut closer to the mounting area. Shot slab must be placed in a dense box to securely protect against dust. Swim wires back are produced after the end of all works on painting.
Application of industrial hair dryer and sandpaper
Before the next step you need to wear glasses, gloves, respirator. They will be needed to provide individual security during the removal of the old coating from the guitar. After the following way:
- Fasten the wooden tool body on the table. The construction hairdryer heats it so that the tree can be cleaned from the old coating. It is impossible to overheating the product, otherwise it will fall.
- Take stacked lists of different caliber: for coarse, primary, final processing and for "wet" grinding. Treat the surface of the housing by sandpaper with the largest grain, removing the rough defects and the remains of varnish, paint. Well pass on cutouts, varnishes. After use the middle sandpaper, then the final (smallest).
- The surface of the wooden product at the end of the processing should be perfectly smooth. It looks with all the dust, smeared a little water. Take a waterproof sandpaper and scream "wet" to remove all fat stains from fingers. Give the surface to dry completely.
Painting guitar
After final training, the guitar can be painted or vacating, but at first it is necessarily ground. A small tassel is applied to a smooth suction layer, even more convenient to spray the means from the spray gun. After drying, the primer is proceeding to painting. The selected means processes one side of the guitar, as drying the same steps are carried out for the second side. If it turns out to hang the product for the bolts, the staining will be possible to implement at once on both sides.
After complete drying of the paint, the tree is treated with the smallest sandpaper, while all the irregularities left by tassel will not disappear. If the lacquer, the paint was applied with a sprayer, this stage can be skipped, because the layer is most often obtained very smooth. Usually two to three layers of paintwork material are required to give a guitar of an updated type. To paint does not cracked, it is also undesirable to produce less than two layers when painting.
Selection of varnishes and finish coatings for guitars
Tactile sensations arising when taking one or another wood coating after processing, completely different. Different painting products and quality, service life, appearance. Usually to preserve the natural nature of the tree, the wax, oil, for ease of refreshing the coating - Shellac, for high speed Application - Nitrolac. There are other types of varnishes that should also be considered in detail.
Oil and wax coating
Linen oil mixed with conifer rosin is a popular tool covering musical instruments, furniture. The tradition of creating oil impregnations is quite old, but is actively used today. The only difference was the type of oil, which is used by the masters in our days: the best properties showed tung, although it is often for the reduction, it is diluted with flax. Also, the masters highly appreciate the special "Danish oil", which consists of such components:
- linseed oil;
- tung oil;
- lacquer furniture;
- white Spirit.
After applying on wood, the oil composition is polymerized from air exposure, and the coating is hardening. Typically applies oil in 3-5 layers with intermediate grinding along the fibers. Large pores on a tree before processing are applied with a water-based composition.
The fiction of musical instruments according to technology is almost no different from the above. Often the techniques are combined, and then the coating will be satin to the touch. It will not be easy to paint the guitar with your own hands, because you do not need to remove the previous coating. Lack of waxes and oils consists in low strength and weak moisture protection. Also, oils can be deep into the wood and disrupt the sound of acoustic instruments (usually it does not apply to the guitars).
Alcohol varnish
Nail polishes based on ethyl or methyl alcohol are rosin, mastic, shellac, sandarak. Shellac is considered the most popular and qualitative, so they should cover simple and electric guitars. This varnish is characterized by such properties:
- beautiful gloss;
- high adhesion to wood;
- lack of toxins;
- ease of application;
- elimination of yellowing over time;
- ability to repair the coating.
Primary lacquer drying lasts day, full - week, which is a good indicator compared to other similar compositions for wood. But it also has cons: bad mechanical and chemical resistance, the speed of the appearance of scratches, softening under the action of heat. The moisture resistance of the varnish is high, but over time decreases.
Before applying, it is necessary to dissolve in alcohol (about 300 g of dry shellac powder per liter of alcohol). You can rub the lacquer with a tassel, cotton swab - it is very easy. After each layer, we must pass the risen fibers. Total requires 3-4 shellaca. For final polishing, polythip is usually used - the wax solution in alcohol.
Nitrocellulose varnishes
Nitrolakes began to be used about 100 years ago and are now very popular in the automotive and furniture industry. In their composition there are nitrocellulose - a nitric acid ester cellulose, diluted with acetone or other solvents. Here are the advantages of these varnishes:
- simplicity of application;
- high speed drying;
- lack of shared on the film;
- good gloss;
- sufficient weather resistance.
Due to the low dry residue, the lacquer has to be applied in 5-11 layers with interlayer grinding, so the overall duration of the process can be significant. Also, nitrolakes are prone to yellowing, the appearance of cracks, have a sharp smell, are not too securely connected to the tree, therefore requires a mandatory pre-coating of wood by primer. The care for the guitar will be difficult, because nitroleaks are not chemically rack. Most often, these funds are used to make a vintage species.
Polyurethane varnish
Under the polyurethanes, the group of polymers containing urethane groups are synthetic elastomers. They are widely used to prepare two-component varnishes that can be used in staining musical instruments. Such means almost displaced nitrolaks due to improved technical parameters. Here are their properties:
- elasticity, lack of cracking of the film;
- long service life;
- resistance to the action of chemicals and mechanical damage;
- high adhesion with wood;
- a variety in appearance - there are matte, glossy, semi-wave, semi-shutty varnishes.
The minuses include a yellowish tint, the complexity of applying. Such formulations are polymerized when contact with special hardeners, so before work they have to be mixed. It is difficult to paint the guitar with a manually polyurethane varnish, because bubbles are formed in deep layers - you will have to buy a special sprayer. Varnish hardeners are very sensitive to light, it is necessary to store them only in the dark.
Polyester varnishes
These varnishes are leading on the strength of the coating, resistance to the action of chemicals and density. They allow you to create a thin but strong film, reliably protecting guitars and other tools that distinguishes a high degree of gloss and wear resistance. The coating transfers the temperature differences, does not searcate, does not crack and does not turn yellow.
Due to the complexity of mixing and need to comply with the accurate formulation, the need to add a catalyst, diluent and accelerator to the domestic base, such varnishes are almost no applied. Polyesters have a small lifetime, so the newcomer to work with them is practically unrealistic. Even varnishes have a sharp smell, high toxicity, which also strongly limits their use in a normal workshop.
Acrylic varnish
Such varnishes are single and two-component. They allow you to get the most elastic film that does not crack over time. The coating will be beautifully glilate, it is absolutely transparent and does not change for many years, does not shine away from the sun. Acrylic varnish is even brushing, easily mixed, has excellent adhesion with wood. Some means allow you to get the effect of a wet tree, together with paints apply for painting, creating vultures, drawings.
Minuses in such varnishes a little. They have a great time drying, and for the entire period, the product should be well protected from dust. Complete polymerization and at all takes 2 months, during this time the composition settles in wood pores, that is, sitting down. So that the varnish does not affect the acoustic characteristics of the guitar, it is necessary to apply it only with a latch.
Water varnishes
The compositions of this species are poorly suitable for painting the guitar. They have a low degree of brilliance, low wear resistance, low service life. The advantages are environmentally friendly and low cost, but repeating the varnish will have to be quite often.
Most often used the easiest variance of the varnishing guitars - the coating of the body with a colorless varnish. There are more interesting techniques, such as the application of color varnish, paint, staining in two layers with different shades, giving the effect of "antiquity".
Some paint the product in one tone, after drying, turn it out with a tape and pass the second color so that bright stripes are formed on the surface. Mural is allowed, drawings, for which the most convenient to use stencils. The original design can be invented independently, at will, the main thing is to fulfill all the work with quality and fantasy!
Polyester lacquer characterized by excellent strength and high degree of gloss.
It is often used in the furniture industry, has a greater wear resistance.
Very common material in guitar production. Most of the budget guitars are covered with this material. Many manufacturers are used. Durable coating well protects the tree from the external effects of atmospheric factors.
Perfectly tolerates temperature differences, cold heat. This varnish after the coating does not seek.
The technology of coating such a varnish provides a rather thick layer of varnish.
Among manufacturers, Custom is rarely used because of the current opinions about full influence on the sound characteristics of the tree and environmentally harmful components.
Most often, such a varnish can be found on the guitars of Asian manufacturers.
It seems to me that the opinion on the poor influence of polyester on the sound of the electric guitar, especially among guitar masters, is somewhat exaggerated.
Polyurethane.
Widely used by guitar manufacturers.
In my opinion, this is the most perfect option To cover the electric guitar.
Durable, wear-resistant, has a high degree of shine. Of the varnishes, perhaps the most common in guitar production. An example of the FENDER - most covered with this varnish.
Polyurethane is used when coating acoustic instruments, including violins, and there, the requirements for the effect of varnish on the sound are much higher.
In all characteristics, the lacquer is perfect for the coating of the electric guitar.
Acrylic (automotive).
Acrylic varnish is widely used in the automotive industry, less often in guitarity.
It has excellent resistance to vibration, less durable than the above-described. It has distinctive feature From the rest of the varnishes. It is perfectly transparent like water. This property allows you to achieve the best result when painting a guitar, for example, in white color, It is also good with a picture option on deck (aerography).
When painting, such a varnish is applied with a small layer, then the effect on the sound characteristics of the deck will be imperceptible. For painting acoustic tools, it is usually not used.
Nitrocellulose.
Nitrolac is often used in guitarity. An example of the Fender Custom Shop.
Wear-resistant properties of this material worst among the above varnishes.
It is easy to crack, heat resistance is weak, external factors affect it among other varnishes. It is environmentally friendly. Coating such a varnish will be highlighted harmful substances Throughout the life of the product.
By influence on the sound aspect, it is considered the best option For guitar. Here I want to draw your attention to several nuances. When applied to an acoustic guitar 2-3 layers of such a varnish, the effect on the resonance of the deck is not manifested. The same time is protected from external influences of the atmosphere (reasonable). This is the main reason for its popularity.
On the electric guitars, the coating is supposed to be much thicker, and when applied 8-10 layers of such a varnish, cracks appear over time. Therefore, its use for electric guitar is very dubious.
The most appropriate application for the electric guitar is to cover the neck with a fruit version of nitrocellulose. The layer is thin and visual effect excellent.
Water varnishes.
Used by customer consulting manufacturers.
The properties of this material, in my opinion, are not quite suitable for painting the electric guitar.
The degree of brilliance of this varnish is not as high as, for example, by polyester.
Positive aspects are good wear resistance and environmental friendliness.
Since in Europe, much attention is paid to the issue of ecology, these materials have become more commonly used by European manufacturers. An example of Warwick.
In my opinion, the variant of the matte surface of the coating this varnish will be better than glossy.
Fracture.
Used in guitar buildings more often by Custom manufacturers.
The wax and oil coating is the surface of the guitar surface with a composition consisting of a mixture of oil and wax.
This composition is applied to the ideally prepared surface of the guitar in several layers, dried and then polished.
The coating technology is the simplest among all existing ones.
Plus this coating is primarily a sound aspect. The impregnation on the sound does not affect anything.
In my opinion, the most rational use of impregnation is to cover dark wood, rosewood, PJSC Ferro, Wenge, etc. An example of this is PRS Privat Stoke, the vultures are often covered with impregnation.
In light rocks, for example, on the maple, the dirt will be visible over time.
I like such a coating on the butt, and not on the guitars.
The protection of the tree from external atmospheric factors with the worst coating.
& NBSP & NBSP & NBSP Publication Date: November 8, 2013
G Radiatric colors of guitars (often referred to as "Burstami") are considered as complex, as popular. There are two varieties of such a coating - transparent and opaque. The opaque is applied with paints (enamels) to the primed surface, completely closing the structure of the wood (Fig. 1). Translucent only toned the coating into colors characteristic of "Bursta", while the structure of the wood is not only not hidden, but also often emphasized (Fig. 2).
Fig.1 opaque gradient
Fig.2 Translucent gradient
Today we will consider it precisely the second variety of gradient coatings, while the structure of the wood will highlight quite strongly. There are two ways to create such coatings: by toning varnish in need color and by toning (firing) wood. The first method gives a fairly smooth color without hiding the structure of the wood, the second strongly emphasizes the structure, since different parts of the wood absorb dyes in different ways. It is this method that we will consider.
So, it is given: "White" (that is, not covered) Body ash guitar housing (Fig. 3), Color Tone dyes Vintage Amber and Cherry Red colors, Powder, polyurethane varnish, compressor and paintopult. Immediately I will say that such a coating should be done using a collapse. The tampon method to get such a coating is very difficult and you need to have untreated experience, for such people this article will not tell anything new.
It is required - paint the guitar in the color of Cherry Burst with the release of wood structure.
Fig.3 "White" guitar case
First stage. Preparation of the surface.
The first thing to be done is to prepare the surface to cover. Collect the deck with sandpaper No. 500. Flat surfaces polish exclusively bar, if you hold down the paper with your fingers, it will not be possible to evenly polish the surface - some sections will be deeper. That is, the top and bottom of the decisions are grinding the bar, and the ends are fingers. It is necessary to grind over the fibers, and not across, the transverse scratches may not be visible, but they will be shown when applying the veil. Such a thin abrasive is chosen due to the fact that the dyes will be applied directly on wood, and all the smallest scratches will be highlighted. Therefore, it is necessary to very carefully and carefully polish the detail with small abrasive.
After the deck is polished, it is necessary to remove the pile and align the shallow dents if they are. To do this, wipe the deck of a wet (but not wet!) Rod and dry the hair dryer. Be careful, do not overheate the surface, especially on the ends. Under the influence of heat and moisture, the shallow dents are leveled, invisible scratches that need to be seized. Repeat the procedure again. If the pile has not risen, then you can go to the second stage.
Second phase. Selection of pore structure.
The release of pore will make the wood pattern more contrast. I highlight the pores with a special putty black for wood (Fig.4).
Fig.4 Putty / Powder
Dilute the putty with warm water and stir up to a homogeneous consistency of thick sour cream, then stick in the wood. Surplus remove with a damp cloth. The treated deck should dry, leave it overnight (Fig. 5).
Now you need to polish the deck to remove the remnants of putty from the surface. I grind abrasive paper №500 on a wooden bar. Please note - if dust from the deck sticks onto the paper with lumps, then the deck still did not dry. Also, the putty can highlight scratches that were not removed at the previous grinding, they must be seated (Fig. 6).
Fig.6 Grinding
Deck is polished if the initial color of the wood returned, while the pores will be grayish. Do not worry, they turn around after the first layer of varnish / soil. Go to the next step - directly painting.
Third stage. Painting.
To create transparent colored coatings, I use Colortone concentrates (Fig. 7). They are universal, can be used as a verse, they can be added to the lacquer for tinting or in paint to change the color (for example, Vintage Amber can be added to white enamel and get imitation of vintage beige color).
I will use dyes as a verse. Since these are concentrates, they need to be diluted. You can dilute them with water, alcohol, solvent. Personally, I use acetone - it evaporates quickly from the surface, so does not leave the flops and traces. Saturation Checking on a piece of wood.
In this case, we paint the guitar in the color of Cherry Burst. For this color, 2 concentrate is needed - Cherry Red and Vintage Amber. Yellowish inner color will go to cherry exterior. When creating gradients, a universal rule is valid - light tones are first applied, then dark. Therefore, the first thing we prepare the amber dye Vintage Amber (Figure 8).
Fig.7 Concentrates Colortone
Fig.8 Diluted dye
Now it is necessary to adjust the paintopult in such a way that it gives out a minimum of material and a large amount of air, while the border of the torch must be wide. Evenly, a couple of layers apply a dye on the deck (Fig. 9).
Fig.9 First layer of dye
Next, we prepare a solution with color Cherry Red. Saturation should be such that the color change in coloring from the console was barely noticeable from the layer to the layer, while the solution should look like cherry juice, perhaps a little lighter. The torch of the collapse must be made narrow. Application technique is such - it is necessary to send the center of the torch on the rounded edge of the deck so that the angle of falling on the deck and the end was the same. Color saturation is adjusted primarily by the amount of layers, not the ratio of acetone and dye (Fig. 10).
After applying two layers, it is necessary to dry. If moisture is a lot, then the dye can flow, spoiling a coating.
Fig.10 second layer of dye
After drying, we prepare the solution for the third layer - darker than the previous one, the solution should be the color of cherry or saturated red wine. A subtle torch is neatly applied to the ends and the most edge of the deck (Fig. 11).
Fig.11 Third layer of dye
Pay attention - the dye absorbed unevenly, highlighting the wood structure. It is most much noticeable on the ends of the deck: where the fibers are parallel to the surface color lighter, in places where fibers are perpendicular - darker. Therefore, it makes sense to align the color in these places. To do this, you need to mix the dye with varnish to the most dark color. Thin torch cover the ends and 1-2 cm of the upper and lower surface of the deck (Fig. 12).
Fig.12 Fourth layer of dye with varnish
We are waiting for the drying of the layer and can repeat this procedure if we want even more smooth color on the ends.
The next stage is varnishing.
Fourth stage. Varnish.
Lacrification is divided into two stages - primer and finishing varnish. At the first stage, a soil or varnish is applied in such a number of layers to align the surface. At the second stage - the layers of the finish varnish.
It is possible to rejuvenate the surface and the finish lacquer, but it, in contrast to the soil, is stronger absorbed into the surface and the total amount of primer layers increases. The ground closes the pores well and falls more than a varnish. Therefore, there are enough 2-4 layers of soil against 6-7 layers of varnish.
When painting and varnishing, I have a deck horizontally. This allows us to cover the upper and lower surfaces of the "liquid" varnish with a large number of diluent, which gives a smooth layer without hazard of the flows. In order to avoid the formation of flows on the ends, I am preparing 2 composition: more thick for ends with a smaller number of diluent and sufficiently liquid for the upper and lower surfaces.
At first, I neatly nano lacquer on the ends, following the wet, but did not flow. If you see a lack of coverage in this place and want to fix it another layer - it is better to refrain, it will save from the flows. It will be more efficient if you are sweeping "jamb" and cover the new layer of specific values \u200b\u200bof the number of components of the varnish or soil, you need to look in the recipe of a specific LKM model.
In this case, I used a two-component polyurethane varnish for both primer and finishing layers. The material must be applied in two layers with an eight-hour drying between the coating stages. (In this case, two layers of application - the manufacturer's recommendation to obtain a uniform coating. In order to avoid confusion, we will consider one "session" of coating in one layer). Three layers of varnish must be applied (or about two layers of soil) before the first grinding. We need to grind abrasives No. 800-1000, however, if the drums were formed, it is permissible to obfinate them with abrasive No. 500.
Do not attempt to completely align the surface, at this stage, its curvature can be comparable to a thickness of the lacquer film and there is a unpleasant probability of stabbing the coating to the tree. And this can not be done because the color will deteriorate. Collect neatly dust and drums (if any) and irregularities of varnish, while the pores of the wood will remain intact. Grinding must be grinding. After that, apply two more layers of varnish (one layer of soil). Repeat grinding. And so as long as the surface after grinding is uniformly matte.
After that, cover the deck 4-5 layers of the finishing coating, deploying, if necessary, dust and small irregularities. Special attention Plug the edges of holes and samples under the sensors, neck and electronics. In these places, a roller from varnish is formed, which must be seized. Be careful to not poll to the tree. The latter will be considered the layer that the curvature does not repeat the curvature of the structure of the wood.
Fig.13 Lakovka
Fig.14 Varnish wets and highlights the porter
If you want the coating to repeat the curvature of the pores, then at each grinding it is necessary to remove only foreign inclusions, without allowing the formation of an "orange peel" on the surface. Apply more subtle layers and increase their total quantity, so the coating on one side will emphasize the natural curvature of the structure, on the other - it will be quite strong.
Do not grind the last layer after the daily drying, now the drying of the entire coating in front of the final stage is polished. Drying at room temperature for polyurethane varnishes should be 1.5-2 weeks, for acrylic varnishes - 3-5 weeks. During this time, the lacquer will fully gain strength, finally takes place in the pores and will lose the viscosity, which will greatly facilitate the procedure for final grinding and polishing. In front of drying, wake holes for strings, potentiometers and other varnishes using a brush.
Grinding will be made with water, this measure will prevent her absorption, tree swelling and cracking the varnish in these places. It is also necessary to wait for a complete shrinkage of varnish, otherwise it will take place when heated during polishing, and the surface will be uneven.
Fifth stage. Polishing.
After a long drying, the lacquer will take place in the pores, singing them a little. It will be noticeable if you have not grinding the lacquer before drying. Now it is necessary to align the surface after shrinkage and polish dust, crust and other disadvantages. Grinding must be grinding with a skirt on a soft (for example, rubber) substrate. It is necessary that the corners of the bar or the bending the face of the leaf of the skins did not scratch the surface. The surface and the skin must be wrapped with water - the skin is not clogged with varnish, the varnish particles do not stick to the surface, which ensures uniform processing. Collect surfaces to a uniform matte color by abrasive № 1000. After that, repeat the processing sequentially 1500, 2000 and 2500 abrasive (Fig. 15).
Fig.15 Final grinding
Clean the surface and carefully consider at different angles of light. The surface should be matte, visible scratches, snaps and grooves near the holes and grooves under the neck and the sensors should not be. After that, go to the polishing.
I perform this operation with the help of polyterols for automotive varnish No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 and a special foam circle for a drill.
Apply Polyrol No. 1 to the surface of a sufficient thick layer and, pressing the circle is quite tight, but not too much to avoid lacquer overheating, remove the polyrol with the surface, moving against the rotation of the circle (Fig. 16).
Fig.16 Polishing
After the first pass, Polyrol №1 you will see a grid of scratches covering the lacquer. The deepest scratches must be removed by the skin No. 2,000, the rest are removed by Polyrol №1. In hard-to-reach places, it is necessary to polish manually, a soft cloth for polishing. You can buy such a cloth in the same place where the polyrolol is sold.
After processing, the scratches will not be seen, the surface will not be visible, while the surface will be merged. Clean all the fall from the residues of the polyroli.
Now it is necessary to polish the surface with polyrolla number 2. It is she who gives the depth and gloss of coating. Now you need to clean the guitar from the residues of the polyteroli and the scan remove the varnish from the holes. Before the final assembly, you carefully remove workplace And wipe the deck with a rag for polishing with a small amount of polyroli number 3.
Fig.17 Gradient coating with highlighted wood structure
Fig.18 Gradient coating with highlighted wood structura
In conclusion, several tips.
- Always use personal protective equipment when painting! Chemical burns of light pairs of acetone or solvents are not a joke.
- Use moisture meter separators (they are set between the compressor and the paintopult), it will eliminate the contact of condensate and oil from the compressor in the varnish - less work when grinding.
- If you do not have an equipped paint room - do wet cleaning before varnishing - and avoid dust from entering the lacquer.
- If you use syringes for dispensing the LKM, take the syringes without the rubber piston tip. Such syringes are lubricated by silicone, its falling into the LKM is fraught with the appearance of crater.
That's it seems to be all. If any questions and comments arose - publish them in the comments. To meetings!