How to care for climbing roses in the fall. Features of agricultural technology for climbing roses, everything from planting to covering for the winter, plus personal experience How to cover roses for the winter in Siberia

One of the most exquisite flowers for the garden is the climbing rose. Most gardeners believe that it is worth the time and effort spent on growing it. Roses come in annual and perennial varieties with a wide variety of colors. Its shoots can grow up to several meters in length. The diameter of the buds ranges from 2.5 to 12 cm. True climbing roses have a lot of flowers, which are located along the entire length of the shoots. There are a great variety of them, so the flowers are divided into several groups: semi-climbing, climbing and climbing. This plant is ideal for decorating the yard, but in order to grow a strong and beautiful bush, you need to know all the nuances of planting and caring for it.

Climbing roses: care and cultivation

All climbing plants are whimsical, and the climbing rose is no exception. When planting this species, you need to adhere to certain requirements:

• The climbing rose requires support. The ideal place is a fence or arch. You need to tie the shoots with soft material so as not to harm the stems. From the very beginning, it is recommended to shape the direction of the shoots, distributing them in different directions.
• This type of plant does not grow in the shade, so the planting site should be sunny from morning to afternoon. The sun helps dry out the dew that can cause fungal disease. During the hottest period of time (afternoon), the flower should be in the shade, as hot rays can cause burns. The ideal place for the plant will be the south and southwest side. Proper lighting helps the growth ripen, which will give next year big amount buds.
• When planting a seedling, you need to take into account that nothing grows within a radius of 50 cm. If the bushes grow near the wall, you should maintain a distance of at least 50–100 cm.
• Optimal soil for climbing rose must contain clay and sand. This plant needs soil rich nutrients, so you definitely need to add humus or humus. Bone meal, which is a source of phosphorus, has a positive effect. The soil for planting is prepared 6 months in advance. If this period is missed, then for a month.

Additional Information! Manure is considered the best fertilizer for roses, but you can replace it with another organic fertilizer. During the first year of intensive growth, you need to make at least 5 feedings. Only after flowering has begun can you stop fertilizing.

Climbing roses grow very quickly, so they need timely pruning.

How to properly care for climbing roses in open ground

Like all ornamental plants, climbing roses require certain care. In order for flowers to delight the owners of the site with their abundant blooms for several years, it is important to know some subtleties.

climbing roses

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year

The first year roses take root and are not always pleasing blooming buds, but that's not the main thing. It is necessary for the bush to grow roots and produce healthy stems. This is important before the first winter. In conditions of regular rains, the plant does not require frequent watering. The only period when it is recommended to water the bushes is the moment the seedlings take root (if the weather is hot). When the bush is formed and actively growing, it can only be watered in the summer.

Important! When watering, do not pour water on the leaves, only under the roots. Morning is considered the best time. The soil needs to be loosened, and to prevent it from drying out, it must be mulched.

In the first year of life of a climbing rose, dried and damaged branches are pruned. There is no need for short pruning.

Caring for climbing roses in the second year

In the second year of life, the flower does not require painstaking care; it is enough to water it abundantly (once every 10 days), feed and prune it on time. Young stems that grow on the sides need pruning. Branches that have flowered should also be pruned to encourage new flowering. The soil around the flower is mulched with grass, straw or sawdust.

In subsequent years, organic feeding is needed. During the growing season, 4 feedings are required. To rejuvenate the bush, you can carry out medium pruning. If all these requirements are met, the plant will be healthy and beautiful.

Feeding and watering

If planted in the spring, the flowering of the bush will be delayed for a couple of weeks. Before planting in the ground, the seedling is shortened by 3 buds. Inexperienced gardeners prefer to buy seedlings in a pot and at the end of spring plant them in the soil along with a lump of earth on the roots.

Note! Under no circumstances should seedlings be grown on the corner of a house. The corner part is always accompanied by a draft. Fancy roses will not like this.

In order for the plant to please the eye with regular and lush flowering, you need to take care of it properly.

Necessary care for climbing roses in summer

In summer, flower care consists of the following activities:

• monitor the possible presence of aphids and other pests;
• prevention of rust, powdery mildew, aphids;
• abundant watering in the heat;
• pruning fading buds;
• loosening the soil;
• removing weeds near the bush;
• second feeding of roots;
• shoot distribution;
• budding;
• shoot garter;
• second pre-autumn feeding.

Important! Rose can get bark cancer. In most cases, the disease is detected in early spring, when the cover is removed. The disease is expressed in the form of light brown spots. If the removal procedure is not carried out in time, the stem will soon die. To save the flower, you need to remove the spots with a small portion of the healthy part of the trunk. It is recommended to burn the cut branches, but under no circumstances leave them in the yard.

How to care for a climbing rose in autumn

In autumn, flower care comes down to the following procedures:

• feeding with bone meal;
• preparing holes for planting new roses in the spring;
• pinching shoots;
• protecting the soil from drying out;
• picking off dried buds;
• cutting cuttings for propagation;
• pruning old and damaged shoots;
• cleaning the soil around the bush from debris and weeds, hilling;
• cleaning the bushes from leaves and removing them from the support (late autumn).

Care and cultivation of climbing roses

Rose care

Exists decorative look perennial shrub called climbing rose. Despite the fact that roses are similar to each other, they still have some differences:

• climbing rose reaches 15 m in length;
• the stems are able to cling to the support themselves due to the tendrils;
• the bush is easy to shape.

To grow a beautiful and healthy bush, you need to know about important points:

• The rose should be planted in a sunny, ventilated place. Optimal south and south-west exposure. Under the most comfortable conditions, the rose will begin to bloom in the second year.
• Open ground should be fertile with drainage.
• Bushes should be planted at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other. Over the years, the roots will have little room and will deplete the soil around the bushes.
• For a healthy and properly formed bush, timely pruning is necessary. It is recommended to prune in late August - early September.
• The rose garter occurs on early stage to control the direction of shoot growth.
• The climbing rose is frost-resistant, but it still needs to be wrapped in winter. Preparations for wintering begin in the fall. To begin with, loosening the soil and fertilizing it stops. The number of waterings is also reduced. Bushes take shelter during the onset of the first frosts. In order for the rose to withstand the cold well, when wrapping it is worth leaving an air gap between the film and the crown.
• If it is possible to remove the rose from the support, you can rewind it with twine and lay it on a layer of leaves. The top is also covered with leaves, burlap or oilcloth.
• Most often, climbing roses are planted in groups. Other types of flowers should not be located nearby. The exception is trees - apple, pear or rowan.

Note! If the climbing rose is securely attached to the support, you should not try to remove it. Such actions can damage the shoots. The rose is covered with spruce wood and wrapped in burlap.

How to cover a climbing rose for the winter

One of the important procedures for caring for a rose is covering it for the winter. In frosts, the flower runs the risk of dying, so it needs to be covered on time and correctly.

When the first cold weather sets in, the growing season of roses stops. But since the weather is changeable and the temperature can rise, provoking sap flow, then with subsequent cold snaps the sap freezes, causing the stems and roots to suffer. As a result, the rose dies. But you can’t wrap roses too much; you should definitely leave access to oxygen. This will quickly dry out the protruding juice and heal cracks, if any.

Preparing for winter

In early August you need to feed the rose bushes. A nutrient solution can be made from the following ingredients:

• superphosphate - 25 g;
• boric acid - 2.5 g;
• potassium sulfate - 10 g.

Boric acid for roses

Everything is diluted in 10 liters of water. This volume is enough for 4 m² of land.

In September, another feeding is done:

• superphosphate - 15 g;
• potassium sulfate - 16 g.

Also dilute in 10 liters of water.

Cover methods

One of the most successful methods of shelter is the laying of wooden panels in the shape of a roof. This method is suitable for roses that can be removed from the support. The maximum suitable canvas should be 80 cm high, the length depends on the size of the bushes. To ensure that the structure stands securely, pegs are driven into the ground for support. Allowed to use wooden boxes. In the first and second methods, you need to additionally cover the top with film.

Important! With this method of covering, it is important that the shoots do not come into contact with the boards, as moisture can accumulate on them. This risks the flower becoming infected.

Can be covered without constructing structures. The shoots are carefully removed from the supports, trimmed, collected into one heap, tied with a tourniquet and laid on the leaves. A mound of soil mixed with peat is made near the root. You can cover the top with spruce branches or cover it with dry leaves. Cover the top with film.

If it is not possible to remove the rose from the support, first cut off dry branches and weak shoots, tear off the leaves, then wrap them in spruce branches (spruce), on top with burlap or film and tie them with a tourniquet.

If you use high-quality materials and properly wrap your climbing rose, you don’t have to worry, since the flower will survive winter frosts 100%.

Nowadays, almost every dacha is decorated with climbing roses. Having gained experience in breeding and growing rose bushes, experienced gardeners are happy to share their knowledge.

• The shoots must be secured carefully so as not to harm the fragile stems. It would be a good idea to wrap soft cloth the place where the garter occurs. It is important not to overtighten so that the process of juice movement in the stems does not stop.
• Most roses are propagated by grafting to the root, which is prohibited from being buried. The climbing rose, on the contrary, is planted 10 cm deeper. In this case, the roots do not sprout.
• By removing the drying flowers, the climbing rose becomes stronger. Pruning repeat-blooming varieties ensures that the next buds will be larger and brighter.

Treatment of seedlings before planting is an important requirement. For a flower to be healthy, several requirements must be met:

Processing of seedlings

• the roots must be saturated with water, so it is worth placing them in water for a day;
• roots and stems are trimmed so that the total length of the bush is 20–30 cm;
• You can treat the cut area with charcoal or garden pitch;
• It is recommended to powder the root with ash.

When forming a bush, you should not direct all the shoots upward. This can lead to exhaustion of the flower, and all the buds will be located only on the crown. The best option is to distribute the shoots in the shape of a fan. Their free arrangement provokes active and healthy flowering.

Bush formation

Today, almost all varieties of roses are propagated by grafting, so it is important to remove wild shoots in a timely manner. Alien fences can deplete the plant, so the flower may lose its varietal qualities. It is easy to recognize the growth: it usually appears at the bottom with smaller, lighter leaves and a large number of thorns.

• All types of roses love the sun and do not tolerate places where there is stagnant water or marshy areas.
• The secret to abundant rose blooms is the correct garter. The maximum number of stems should be placed horizontally.
• The correct shape of the hole for planting a seedling should be at least 50x50 cm. It is worth pouring a little loose soil back to the bottom.
• If the support for the flower is in the form of a wide arch, the shoots need to be secured not only at the top, but also passed inside the arch. With this method, it will not look empty from the inside.
• The support must be installed simultaneously with planting the rose. This is the only way to be sure that the roots of the flower will not be damaged.

Important! The rose can take root in almost any type of soil. In a wetland with high groundwater, the ground needs to be strengthened with drainage or an embankment made.

Climbing raza is a rather whimsical plant. From the moment of planting until the first buds, it is worth carrying out maximum procedures that are positive for the flower. Preliminary preparation soil, proper watering, timely pruning and fertilizing give every chance for the rose bush to be healthy and decorative country cottage area long years.

Recently, many new varieties of roses have appeared that do not have the ability to enter a state of dormancy in the winter cold.

In cold regions, it is mandatory to prepare roses for winter.

Hybrid roses greet winter with fresh foliage and buds, and when the first frost arrives they go into a dormant phase.

With slight warming in the shoots, the active process of movement of juices begins again, which is interrupted by sudden frosts. This leads to the appearance of ice and ruptures of the stems; in these cracks, with warming, infection begins to develop, which leads to the death of the bush.

Among the many varieties of roses, most winter successfully with the right approach to winter preparation.

A gardener must know the varieties of rose bushes on his site and navigate the climatic conditions of each season. Based on knowledge, you can understand what kind of shelter is needed for rose garden. The most resistant varieties include rose hips, park roses and hybrid varieties. If the winter is snowy and not very cold, such bushes will easily survive the winter without shelter.

Preparation for winter and its timing are completely tied to the region where the rose bushes grow. IN middle lane the procedure begins in early autumn, the southern one - in mid-September, and Siberia - at the end of August. Each of the preparatory stages should take place in exactly this interval. If flowers are cut early, the rose may produce a new shoot just in time for frost, and most likely it will not survive.

Removing leaves for the winter should also be timely. Mature leaves strengthen the stem of the rose, but in some varieties, with slight warming after frost, this can trigger the beginning of bud formation. When transferring garden roses in a state of winter sleep, there is no need to overdo it, play it safe and do something just in case. Such actions can only cause harm.

Important! When removing leaves from a bush, you need to use scissors and pruners. You cannot tear off or break off foliage and buds, as this can injure the plant.

In order for possible wounds on the stems of roses to heal, the shelter must be dry, without moisture inside.

The importance of pruning roses

The peculiarity of climbing roses is that they can be bent to the ground; pruning is not relevant for such varieties. The exception is the hybrid variety of tea rose, which is cut no shorter than 0.5 meters so that a shelter can be built.

Before covering the roses, they are hilled. You can do this with spruce branches, but do not use sawdust, which will draw out moisture and rot.

How to cut foliage

It may seem that cutting off the foliage is unnecessary, but this way the rose is prepared in advance for winter dormancy. In addition, this is also a preventive measure that will prevent the appearance of pests or diseases in fallen leaves.

Important! In autumn, the rose is covered with leaves as much as possible. Most of the foliage is likely to be infected or blighted.

After excess or diseased leaves are cut off, they must be burned without leaving them around the bushes.

Having many climbing rose bushes in the garden, it is better to remove foliage in several stages, starting the process in September. If you have a large rose garden, you need to cut off at least the diseased leaves, treat the remaining leaves with Bordeaux mixture and copper sulfate.

Proper care of roses at the end of summer

Before you start pruning roses, you need to take care of feeding. The best time for this in the middle zone is August. Nitrogen is excluded from fertilizers; it activates the growth of green mass. At this time, the best fertilizer is one containing potassium and phosphorus.

At the beginning of September, watering is repeated with water with superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 15 g per 10 liters. Rose bushes can be sprayed with this solution, but the concentration can be reduced by 3 times.

From the end of summer, loosening the soil stops so as not to cause excessive root formation and the appearance of weak shoots. Starting in the fall, all new buds are cut off with pruning shears.

Pruning roses for the winter

It is convenient to prune roses in preparation for winter; it simplifies the construction of a shelter. In addition, a pruned rose produces even more buds on new shoots in the spring. At the same time, the bush receives ventilation, more sunlight and a moderate number of branches that do not interfere with each other.

For pruning there are rules that must be followed:

1. You need to trim the rose with a good, sharp pruning shears; it is better to cut down old thick branches with a hacksaw.
2. Each cut should have a smooth surface, without creases.
3. The shoots are cut at an angle so that moisture does not stagnate in them.
4. A distance of 1.5 cm is maintained between the bud and the cut.
5. Rose bushes need to be trimmed at the end of autumn, before covering. The exact month depends on climatic conditions. For the middle zone - this is the end of October, for the northern regions - a couple of weeks earlier.
6. In order, the damaged branches are cut off first, then the leaves with buds, and finally the young shoots that have not had time to ripen. Green shoots need to be trimmed until the white core appears.
7. The pruning procedure should be carried out in dry weather, without strong wind.
8. All cut parts must be removed from the area to prevent the development of fungi.

There are several types of rose pruning:

• light pruning is applicable to rare varieties, in this case the plant begins to bloom earlier, but the bushes become shapeless;
• The middle type of pruning is used for hybrid tea roses. They are cut in half, leaving 30-50 cm in length. In this case, 5 internodes remain on each shoot;
• with short pruning, only 2-3 growth points remain. Thus, varieties that are susceptible to pests and diseases are pruned.

Pruning roses based on their variety:

• Cascade varieties Roses are pruned short in the first year of planting, then they are simply shortened a little.
• Remontant variety of rose and Grandiflora cut up to 5 buds.
• Park varieties the most winter-hardy, therefore they are subjected only to sanitary pruning.

Important! When pruning a climbing rose, you need to remove the foliage from the remaining shoots. In this case, pruning should be minimal, preserving most of the branches.

How to properly bend and cover a climbing rose

Out of ignorance, you may decide that you need to lay the rose by pressing it tightly to the surface of the earth. Actually this is not true. You need to bend the climbing rose bush no less than a meter.

This needs to be done in stages, over a couple of weeks:

• You need to start before stable cold weather arrives; with frost the branches become brittle.
• To bend down smoothly, you need to take a cord, which is attached to the upper branches with one end, and the other at the bottom of the trunk.
• First, the cord is pulled until there is resistance, without a crack. Then they shorten it little by little throughout the day.
• You can make a weighting agent in the form of boards that are laid on top of the bush.

For young bushes of climbing roses, everything is much simpler. They are still pliable, and the branches can simply be twisted at a meter height and laid around the circumference of the bush.

Important! There is no need to lay the plant on bare ground; it is better to make a layer of foam or boards.

In persistent sub-zero temperatures, you need to build a shelter for climbing roses. To do this, lay the bent shoots on spruce branches, or polystyrene foam, and cover the bush with dry leaves or the same spruce branches, and lay a special material, film, on top.

Shelter of roses

After pruning and all other preparatory procedures, you should not immediately cover the roses. The cuts should be given time to dry, and cover should be provided only when the bush is kept at a temperature not lower than -5°C for 2 weeks. During this time, the plant will enter the sleep phase and all processes in it will stop.

With the onset of 5-7 degrees below zero, you need to start insulating the bushes. In the middle zone this happens at the beginning of winter, late autumn, in the Urals perhaps earlier. For some hybrid varieties and park roses, you can simply arrange a mulch layer around the above-ground shoots.

Bushes that are cut short, after constructing the root litter, can be covered with boxes made of plastic or wood. A film or agrofibre is placed on top of the boxes, secured with a weighting agent.

To avoid rodents, you can soak the wood in creolin and place it under cover near each bush. Lapnik can repel rodents on its own, without the use of toxic substances. Among the folk remedies for fighting mice are ash and cat waste.

For tall bushes, they build a hut from boards, make a canopy from twigs, covering it with covering material. When making such a structure, it should be taken into account that the distance between the bush and the top of the hut should be 20 cm.

Important! If you cover roses correctly, they will survive the winter well and will not rot during the thaw.

Popular covering material

Spunbond breathable, it creates a shelter similar to snow in its properties. Well applicable if the weather is not stable. Durable material that lasts at least 3 years.

Polyethylene – popular, but not breathable. When covering roses with film, you need to leave ventilation holes.

Lutrasil – economical and environmental material. It comes in different densities; for roses, 3 layers of material with a density of 40-60 g per 1 m2 are used. Lutrasil allows air, moisture and light to pass through.

From natural materials used:

1. Foliage, but not as an independent coating. It cannot withstand the whole winter and begins to rot. You can take dry oak and maple leaves and place them at the bottom of the plant.
2. Lapnik- an economical way to cover rose bushes for the winter. It is well ventilated and also repels rodents.
3. Plywood or boards good if available. IN northern parts Russia is perfect option shelters.
4. Burlap used before when there were no other options. Although it allows air to pass through, it absorbs moisture, which leads to fogging.

Important! When covering roses for the winter, you need to remember the importance of air and take care of ventilation by leaving several holes.

By following the described rules, you can prepare roses for winter efficiently. When establishing a stable temperature in the spring, the bushes need to be ventilated sometimes.

Any roses are beautiful and spectacular when they bloom, but climbing ones are even more so. The charm of a blooming canopy is so great that even the most unprepossessing flower garden can instantly transform as soon as the first buds of climbing roses turn into bright flowers. In order for plants to enjoy annual flowering, it is necessary to properly care for climbing roses, which will be the topic of this article.

Varieties of climbing roses

Among the abundance of varieties of climbing roses, three main classification groups can be distinguished:

Climbing roses: crop care

Like any other garden plants, they require some care. Choosing a suitable place for planting is one of the first immutable rules of success. To plant bushes, choose an area with good lighting and fertile soil. But you should not plant bushes in the sun; for roses, areas with an eastern orientation are preferable, so that the sun illuminates the plants in the morning. It is very important to plant climbing roses in a place protected from the wind, otherwise the stems and leaves of the plants will certainly be damaged in a draft. When choosing a site for planting roses, it is necessary to determine in advance the acidity of the soil and the level of groundwater.

The soil in the area for planting roses should have a slightly acidic reaction (pH from 6.0 to 6.5).

Important! In northern regions with short summers, soil acidity indicators should have a slightly alkaline reaction.

Rose bushes should not be planted in swampy areas or areas with predominant salty soil.

Loams with high water permeability are best suited for planting climbing roses. Sandy loam and heavy clay soil are not suitable for growing roses, but such areas can be improved beforehand. The soil must be prepared in advance; the clay is diluted with sand, humus and phosphorus fertilizers are added, and sandy soil is improved by adding clay and compost. When planting rose bushes, the layer of fertile soil should be at least 30 cm.

Important! You cannot plan to plant plants in an area where any variety of roses previously grew.

When planting, the root collar of climbing roses is buried 6-8 cm.

How to feed a climbing rose

In order for roses to grow well, develop and delight with lush, long-lasting flowering, special attention must be paid to fertilizing. Fertilizers for climbing roses can be bought ready-made (Agricola-Rosa is suitable), but there is nothing difficult about applying the appropriate mixture of microelements yourself at the right time.

With the onset of warmth, rose bushes are fertilized with microelements; special granular fertilizers can be scattered under the bushes for spring feeding of plants. In April, plantings need nitrogen fertilizers, which will allow the plants to quickly increase green mass after wintering.

For 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash you will need 50 liters of water; this infusion, diluted in a ratio of 1:10, is useful for watering roses in the spring and first half of summer.

It is useful to alternate the application of nitrogen and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers; microelements, if necessary, are applied with foliar feeding (spraying of foliage with nutrient solutions is carried out early in the morning or after sunset).

In the second half of summer, climbing roses are fed only with potassium and phosphorus, which helps the wood ripen faster in preparation for winter.

Diseases and pests of climbing roses

Unfortunately, climbing roses are susceptible infectious diseases and invasion pests, of which there are several dozen. Rose bushes are especially often pestered by aphids and spider mites, but plantings are also harmed by other insects, including leaf rollers, thrips, and the rose sawfly.

Treatment of bushes against pests should be carried out as early as possible, immediately after insects are noticed on the plants. You can use folk remedies or special insecticides for treatment: Karbofos, Actellik, Inta-Vir, Fufanon, Fitoverm, Aktara, Shar Pei, Fosbecid and others.

Among the diseases of roses we can distinguish large group fungal diseases - rust, powdery mildew, gray rot. Fungicides are used to treat them.

The most dangerous bacterial disease- bacterial cancer. Unfortunately, this disease cannot be treated; infected plants are dug up and burned.

How and when to prune climbing roses

Timely and correct pruning of climbing roses allows you to prepare the plants for winter and guarantees abundant annual flowering. Climbing roses, regardless of the height of the shoots, require complete shelter for the winter, so pruning is necessary for all plants in the fall. First, the foliage is removed from the shoots, then all diseased, broken and old shoots are cut out.

But the formation of a climbing rose begins at the moment of planting the seedlings. Shoots of young plants immediately after planting in a permanent place are shortened by 20-30 cm.

In the summer, faded shoots are pruned, wilted flowers are cut off, and all branches that are excessively thickening and growing inward are removed. This pruning is carried out from the second year of the plant’s life, only with sharp cutting tool using a knife or pruning shears. Old branches of rose bushes are pruned at ground level if replacement shoots exist. If there are no new mature shoots, the old ones are cut to 40 cm.

The remaining shoots are cut off in places where powerful new growth is formed. Short flower stalks are cut into 2-3 buds.

In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out - those shoots that are frozen or dead in the shelter must be removed. In the spring, all shoots that have grown below the grafting site are broken out.

Sheltering a climbing rose for the winter

To keep climbing roses in healthy condition in winter, you should pay close attention to covering the bushes in the autumn. There is no need to rush too quickly to insulate the bushes, otherwise putrefactive processes will begin in the shelter, which can be triggered by leaves not removed from the shoots.

Important! Before sheltering for the winter, shoots of climbing roses are carefully inspected and all leaves are removed from them.

Warming roses for the winter is carried out according to the following algorithm:

The stems are tied into bunches and placed on spruce branches spread on the ground. The shoots are insulated on top with non-woven material, spruce branches, earth, and in winter snow is laid on top of the insulation. If your region experiences heavy snowfalls, you should think about reducing the load on the stems from a thick layer of snow and insulate the roses in arcs.

Tall climbing roses are insulated locally, without removing them from their supports, carefully insulating the bunches of shoots with sheet materials (spunbond, lutrasil), but the root part is also covered with soil and covered with spruce branches.

Climbing roses are a real decoration of the garden; they get along well next to clematis and other climbing crops, turning the garden into a fabulous picturesque corner.

Climbing rose - incredible beautiful flower, which can easily improve even the most unsightly fence. Of course, such beauty is very demanding both in terms of its cultivation and care. Not only does this crop need to be grown, but it also needs to be properly prepared for the winter cold, so that next year it will delight the owners with its beautiful buds and amazing aroma.

When should you cover?

Probably only the southern regions of Russia can avoid taking care of winter shelter for roses. In all other areas, covering a climbing rose is a prerequisite and a guarantee that next year the rose will delight the gardener and his guests with beautiful dense buds.

Despite the need for shelter, there is still no need to rush into it. Frosts of minus 5 degrees harden rose bushes well, and they can easily withstand cold temperatures down to minus 10 degrees. Among other things, if you cover a rose ahead of schedule, then the plant, under the influence of warm air formed under the film, will begin to rot, and therefore, young shoots may die, and, therefore, you can’t expect a beautiful color on them.

The sheltering time depends on the geographic location of the gardener’s plot, and if it is the Moscow region, then the roses need to be insulated at the end of October, but when growing a climbing rose in Primorye, it should be sent for wintering no earlier than the beginning of December.

Preparation

A rose, like any garden plant, it is necessary to properly prepare for the cold, since shelter alone will not be enough for it. Before the cold weather, you need to carry out a number of procedures that will help the plant tolerate low temperatures more easily.

Top dressing

In autumn, the rose needs minerals such as potassium and phosphorus, which strengthen root system plants and enable it to withstand unfavorable wintering conditions.

The mistake is made by those gardeners who continue to feed flowers with standard fertilizers. They also contain nitrogen, which is necessary for the color and growth of new shoots.

The application of nitrogenous fertilizer will provoke the appearance of new leaves and shoots, which in the end will not be fully formed and will not produce a lush color next year, unless, of course, they survive until spring flowering. Therefore, the introduction of fertilizers such as ammonium nitrate, urea and ammonium sulfate should be postponed until spring.

Feeding rose bushes can be done in the following ways:

• dry fertilizer for plant roots;
• liquid fertilizer for the root system;
• liquid fertilizer for spraying the aboveground part of the plant.

The first autumn feeding in liquid form is carried out on sunny September days.

For 4 sq. m. area of ​​the site, you need to prepare the following composition:

• water – 10 l;
• superphosphate – 27 g;
• potassium sulfate – 12 g;
• boric acid – 3 g.

Bushes are watered with this solution in early September.

The second autumn feeding of climbing roses is scheduled 2 weeks after the first.

For it you will need:

• water – 10 l;
• potassium monophosphate – 15 g;
• superphosphate – 14 g.

After preparing the solution, you should not delay fertilizing for a long time, as the composition may lose its quality after 12 hours.

Before applying fertilizers, it is necessary to loosen the soil a few centimeters deep, and then water the bushes with the prepared solution. After this, each bush is sprinkled with ash at the rate of 200 g per plant.

Potassium-magnesium preparation is also used as a top dressing in September. It is not only a plant nutrient, but also a disinfectant. It is usually sold in granules and is scattered near the trunk over the entire adjacent surface in early November.

Experienced gardeners have folk remedy For additional food roses. This is a banana peel. It is ground into fine crumbs and dug up with root soil. Sometimes banana peels are buried near the trunk of the bush. The main thing is to have time to do this at the beginning of September or at the end of August.

To feed the ground part, the same composition is used, only in different proportions:

• water – 30 l;
• potassium monophosphate – 10g;
• superphosphate – 10 g.

The rose is sprayed with this composition once every three weeks until the third week of October.

Treatment

Before being sent to shelter, rose bushes are also treated against various pests, as well as hilled and pruned.

The rose is most often sprayed with either iron sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. Both drugs work well against pests such as slugs and spider mites.

Pruning is a very important procedure. Depends on its correct execution appearance climbing roses next year, so experienced gardeners advise not to neglect this procedure.

At the very beginning, before pruning, remove all wilted leaves from the bushes so that they do not begin to rot or spread infections. As soon as the thermometer begins to show zero temperature outside the window, you can start pruning the plant.

The first thing a novice gardener should do before pruning is to buy a good, sharp pruning shears., since the rose does not accept clamps and cracking of the cut. Carelessly cut branches become a source of various infections and diseases.

Tall stems are cut to 1 cm, the cut is made 1 cm above the last bud and made inside the bush. If the cut is made 5 centimeters higher, the resulting “stumps” will begin to die and spread infections. The branches should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, after which all shoots are treated with brilliant green or charcoal.

The location of the kidney is also important. If you plan to form a spreading bush, then you need to cut it at the bud that looks outward; if you form vertical bushes, then the bud should “look” inside the bush. Low rose bushes are cut no more than 10 cm.

The appearance of new shoots or buds in the fall weakens the plant, and therefore it is necessary to pinch out new branches in advance and not allow the rose to grow so that it does not weaken and endure the winter. Mature but nevertheless healthy bushes are usually not removed, as they can be rejuvenated by short pruning.

By autumn, the frequency of watering is reduced in order to reduce humidity, which is an excellent platform for the development of fungus. But you still cannot neglect it, since a lack of water increases the concentration of salts in the soil, which affects the growth of bushes. Gardeners advise watering roses no more than twice in the first month of autumn, and if autumn began with heavy rains, then there is no need to water the climbing rose at all.

In September, gardeners often paint the trunks of bush roses. Paint acts as protection against pathogens that can infect roses at the most inopportune moment. To do this, use garden or water-based paint, which is pre-diluted with copper chloride. Painting starts from the bottom and ends at a height of about 30 cm. After the paint has dried, you can start hilling the bushes.

Gardening experts advise hilling the rose as high as possible. In this way, you can improve air circulation, improve the flow of oxygen to the roots of the plant and protect the trunk from freezing.

Hilling of one adult bush is carried out to a height of up to 30 cm. They usually use the soil between the rows and for one young bush a bucket of soil is poured into the center; there are two buckets per adult plant. The result is a tall enough cone to keep the demanding plant alive in the cold.

They also try to sprinkle the soil with dry mulch, and a layer of humus is poured underneath it. The mulch itself is fixed on top with the help of spruce branches.

Spruce branches perform not only the function of securing mulch to the plant trunk. The smell of spruce and pine effectively fights rodents, scaring them away and preventing mice from settling in for the winter in a cozy and warm mulch.

Preserving the root system of a rose is very important, since even if the above-ground part of the rose is damaged by frost, the healthy roots of the plant will enable the bush to throw out new branches.

If rose bushes are not pruned, they are twisted with twine and carefully bent to the ground, and then fixed with arcs near the ground, covered with spruce branches or foliage.

Also, gardeners who do not pick off leaves spray them with sulfur preparations.

In addition, you need to clear the land of fallen leaves and weeds so that dangerous pests do not infest them and fungal spores do not multiply.

The soil near the bushes, on which bent rose bushes are laid, is covered with roofing felt or wooden panels are laid to minimize contact of the stems with frozen soil.

How to cover it correctly?

Selective roses are very sensitive to any temperature fluctuations. This is due to the fact that in winter they cannot enter a state of vegetative dormancy.

Usually their growing season ends as soon as the outside temperature drops below 0 and the plant falls asleep. But if it suddenly gets warmer in the middle of winter, the movement of sap inside the plant will resume, and then, as the temperature drops, it will turn into ice. This happens at minus 3 degrees.

Therefore, a shelter for a rose should perform several functions:

• maintain the temperature inside the shelter at least minus 10 degrees;
• create dry air around the bush;
• protect bushes from adverse conditions.

Roses are covered exclusively in a dry state, so if it suddenly rains before the gardener’s procedure, then all manipulations should be postponed until the roses are completely dry. The same applies to processing: you cannot immediately send the bushes into shelter after it. You need to wait for the rose bushes to dry completely.

Rainy autumn also complicates the preparation of roses. In this case, over the roses, after their bushes are tied and tucked, it is necessary to build an impromptu roof that will protect the plants from rain and allow the bushes to dry thoroughly.

There are several ways to cover a climbing rose

The first method, which is the most budget-friendly, is dripping. To do this, the bushes are twisted together and bent to lay them on the ground. At low temperatures, all manipulations with bushes must be carried out very carefully, since in cold weather the branches become very fragile and can be broken very easily. Some experts recommend performing this procedure in advance, so that by November all the bushes are in a prepared state waiting for shelter.

Next, the bushes need to be covered with dry leaves and spruce branches. This is done immediately before snow falls and not earlier, since the foliage must be completely dry. In anticipation of snow, you can bury the bushes, covering them with earth before the first snowfall falls.

The branches can get wet, so in order to isolate the natural shelter from moisture, after covering the rose with spruce branches, it is covered with polyethylene and then, if there are large snowdrifts on the site, the shelter is covered with snow.

The most common way to cover a rose is to create various ground structures.

The very design of protecting a rose from frost depends on the location of its bushes, and the planting of bush roses is as follows:

• in line;
• in groups;
• separate bushes.

With the first planting method, the rose is insulated using a shield method.

A bush rose planted in a group is covered using a frame structure, which is covered from the wind with agrofibre or other covering material.

When planted alone, the rose is protected depending on average annual temperatures. If they are not too low, the rose is spudded, trimmed and covered over the entire winter season spruce branches. At very low temperatures, experts still advise building at least some kind of shelter for the bush from a frame structure in order to cover and insulate the demanding plant.

There is another way to protect the rose from low temperatures by wrapping the vertical stems with fabric material, although this method is not often used.

In this case, the rose branches are not removed from the support and the roses are wrapped directly on it. To do this, they usually use several layers of fabric, most often burlap, and cover everything on top with polyethylene. But wrapping roses to protect them is only possible in areas with a mild climate. In central Russia, a gardener will have to work hard to build a shelter.

Assembling a structure to protect the plant from snow and frost is not difficult. To do this, you will need boards and plywood, which are installed on the supports and on the sides of the structure. Then the shelter is covered with agrofibre or any other material to protect it from moisture and wet snow.

Rose huts are the most common shelter, where two shields rest on each other and create a “house”.

Their height reaches about 80–90 cm. There is enough free space in such shelters so that in the spring the water that forms after the ice melts on the shields quickly evaporates and does not create a greenhouse effect inside the “hut.”

The advantage of this design is the ability to lift the covering material and occasionally ventilate the roses during thaws. It is permissible to have gaps in board shelters, since the rose, as mentioned above, is a fairly frost-resistant flower. An important point

is the fact that rose bushes cannot be kept in such a shelter at above-zero temperatures, and as soon as in the spring the temperature begins to rise above zero degrees, it is necessary to remove the covering material from the structure, and then disassemble the structure itself. Roses should be opened gradually due to the fact that the plant is at risk of sunburn. The choice of covering material is also important, and it must be approached very responsibly.

Canvas for covering roses can be completely different, and the decision to purchase is made depending on what goal the gardener is pursuing.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. And the first, most common type of covering material is polyethylene film. In Soviet times, this was practically the only covering material that was available to the average gardener. Its thickness varies from 0.04 to 0.4 mm.

• Its advantages include: accessible sunlight
• for plants inside the shelter;
• reliable protection from wind, rain and snow;

budget material.

• The film also has a number of negative qualities that can negatively affect the plant, and these are:
• low quality material, fragility (lasts no more than a year);
• without ventilation, the water in such a greenhouse condenses, which leads to damage to the plant;

inaccessibility of fresh air to rose bushes.

In order to cover a climbing rose for the winter, the gardener must know certain features of this process.

Do I need to cover a climbing rose?

Despite the high resistance to low temperatures, climbing roses are also at risk of suffering from cold weather. There is juice inside the plants, which begins to freeze at temperatures below – 2°C. As a result, ice forms, which injures the plants. Young bushes are susceptible to damage much more than adults. Injured areas become hotbeds for the spread of diseases and pests.

Having decided whether you need to cover your roses for the winter, you should learn how to make a shelter. It must be strong, but you must ensure that it is of high quality and dense. Since suitable material can protect climbing roses in winter, preparation for winter begins with choosing a shelter.

Preliminary preparation for winter

Healthy, powerful and hardened plantings of roses, which have managed to ripen normally during the growing season, most easily tolerate the negative conditions of the winter period. In order to prepare a climbing rose for winter, you need to cover it with special materials. It is possible to leave plants without shelter during the cold season only in the southern regions of Russia.

Help the shoots ripen

Gardeners most often pay increased attention to roses during the flowering phase, trying to extend it for as long as possible until the onset of frost. This should not be done, since such artificial prolongation of flowering negatively affects the maturation of the stems. To preserve the plant in winter in the first ten days of August, when the roses are still blooming, it is necessary to stop feeding them nitrogen fertilizers.

Special attention given to climbing roses during the flowering period.

This measure allows you to stop the growth of new stems. Having appeared at the end of summer, they will not have time to ripen normally before the onset of cold weather, and they will have to be shortened.

During this period, it is better to feed roses with the following nutrients:

• superphosphate – 25 g;
• potassium sulfate – 10 g;
• boric acid – 2.5 g.

These fertilizers are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water and mixed thoroughly. The resulting fertilizer is enough to treat 4-5 m² of climbing rose plantings.

A month later, another feeding is carried out, but this time 16 g of potassium monophosphate is diluted in a container with water. If it was not possible to apply the specified fertilizers, it is allowed to replace them with any other flower food that does not contain nitrogen, and phosphorus and potassium are in a ratio of 2:1 to each other. It is recommended to apply fertilizers by foliar application.

In the last ten days of August, further pruning and shaping of bushes should be completely abandoned. During this period, plants try not to loosen or dig up the soil between the plants. Otherwise, dormant buds placed on roses near the ground may wake up and begin to grow.

Timing of shelter for the winter

Inexperienced gardeners most often strive to cover their rose bushes as early as possible, believing that even a slight cold snap will have a detrimental effect on the condition of the plants. The vast majority of old varieties of roses are classified as winter-hardy and feel normal at temperatures down to -10°C and below. Varieties that were recently bred most often do not have a dormant period. Flowering and active vegetation continue even in cold weather.

At what time should you snatch a climbing rose?

Light and short frosts not only do not harm roses, but also harden them, preparing them for winter. During light frosts, frost forms on plants, which does not even need to be removed, since it protects the plantings from sudden thawing when a thaw occurs. In this regard, planting and construction of shelters begin no earlier than the first half of October.

Since the onset of persistent cold weather in certain regions of Russia occurs in different terms, you should focus on the time when the average daily air temperature will constantly drop below -5°C. In September, gardeners should continue caring for the climbing rose in the fall, aimed at overwintering it as best as possible.

Instead of bending plants to the ground, some gardeners practice pruning them. The stem is shortened based on the height of the intended shelter. The height of the remaining shoots should be approximately 15-25 cm. This reserve is enough to avoid damaging the grafting site.

Cleaning up debris and strengthening the immune system

At the beginning of autumn, the rose garden should be cleaned. Dry grass, fallen leaves and flowers, and all other organic debris must be removed from under each bush. Most often, these plant debris provide winter shelter for larvae of harmful insects and spores of fungal diseases.

Wintering climbing roses will be much easier if the plants are resistant to diseases caused by increased humidity. To increase immunity, the plantings should be treated with Bordeaux mixture, iron sulfate or other suitable fungicide.

Biological drugs are highly effective in this case, for example:

• gliocladin;
• Alirin-B;
• phytosporin, etc.

After the first spraying with pesticides, the plants begin to be gradually removed from the supports and tilted towards the ground. To ensure that neither the gardener nor the plants are injured, the plants should be tied up in the spring in such a way that it will be easier to remove them later. If the bushes are already old and have grown greatly, then they need to be removed especially carefully.

Even this way, it is not always possible to successfully remove the plant from its supports. In such situations, it is practiced to cover the lashes for the winter with non-woven dense material folded in several layers. Instead, you can also use burlap or any other compacted fabric.

Pruning and hilling

In climbing plants, pruning in preparation for wintering is characterized by a number of features. So, as the stems are removed from the supports, only the youngest green stems at the top of the bushes, which have not had time to ripen, are cut off. Immediately before the start of covering, all buds and flowers are removed.

Rules for pruning climbing roses.

The foliage of roses most often falls off on their own as the period of light frosts begins. If this does not happen, then the leaves will have to be removed yourself.

This is especially important for the lower part of the plant, where small branches and cuttings are located. Pathogens and pests often hide in these places.

An infection can enter the plant through unhealed cuts. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to immediately treat the cut areas with brilliant green or charcoal immediately after removing the stems.

On some varieties of climbing roses it can be problematic to manual removal foliage. This is due to the excess number of thorns on the stems. In such cases, you should resort to using special preparations to remove leaves. Among them, the most effective are those belonging to the sulfur group.

Before you start covering the plant, you must hill up its root collar.. This procedure allows you to save and protect the plant even under the most unfavorable weather conditions in winter.

For hilling, it is recommended to use soil collected between the rows. The soil must be properly dried, which is why it is recommended to prepare it first and dry it by spreading it under a canopy. For young plants, 1 bucket per bush will be enough; for old plants, you will have to spend 2-3 buckets of soil. The soil is poured directly to the central part of the plant, forming a cone-shaped mound. The height of the soil layer should vary from 20 to 30 cm.

A high-quality alternative to soil is dry sand. Humus, peat and sawdust are not suitable for use in this case, since these materials strongly accumulate moisture. In some cases, it is possible to use a torus, but it is necessary to mix it with sand so that the material does not cake and can allow air to pass through normally. Plants can be covered with spruce branches or wooden planks in a circle so that the wind does not destroy the embankment.

Shelters for climbing roses

A florist should know how to put a climbing rose in winter. At the same time, he must pay attention to the location of plants on the site. If the rose bushes are planted in oblong rows, then it is best to cover the roses with shields. If the plants grow close to each other, it would be preferable to build a frame that covers the entire rose garden.

Material for covering climbing roses.

When placing plants separately, it is necessary to take into account the weather and climatic conditions of the region. If there is a slight frost outside and there is an excess of snow, then you can sprinkle the plants with it; How to do this correctly - lay spruce branches on top of the snow. This material will not only warm the roots well, but will also reduce the risk of mice and other rodents in the plantings. In all other cases, it is recommended to organize a frame of any size with a layer of air.

Shields for roses

After the plant has been pruned for the winter and removed from its supports, it must be carefully but tightly tied in the shape of a bunch and bent as strongly as possible to the ground. The soil is covered with spruce branches. In order for the plant to hold better, rose branches are fixed to the soil in several places using rigid and durable wire.

After this, you need to make 2 wooden shields. Their width should be 80 cm, and their length should be equal to the length of the row of plants. The shields are placed along the plants at an angle in the shape of houses. They need to be secured on the outer sides with pegs. It is allowed to leave several small gaps and cracks in the shields.

Wooden shields for wintering roses.

The upper part of the shields is covered with polyethylene film so that it can cover them on both sides. The shelter is sprinkled with soil and attached with planks to the shields. Before the onset of frosts of -10°C and below, the film can be left slightly open, but with the onset of severe cold weather, the ends should be sealed. With the onset of spring, you need to open the film a little to prevent the plants from drying out.

Frame shelters

You need to know how to insulate roses using a frame. This type of shelter for a climbing rose for the winter involves the construction of homemade frames in the country. To do this, you can use wooden slats or metal wire. Climbing roses are also cared for in the same way.

Such a shelter for the winter contains additional supports to which plant branches are tied with rope. However, they should not come into contact with the frame. When asked how to cover plants, they answer that in this case the best option The material for the frame will be fiberglass. It provides good ventilation, but at the same time prevents the climbing rose from suffering from the accumulation of liquid.

If fiberglass cannot be used, non-woven densified material can be used as an alternative. Its upper part can be combined with plastic film, which will cover the plants as best as possible from snow and other precipitation.

The cover from the plants should not be removed immediately, but step by step, lifting its individual sections in order to ventilate the plants. It is best to start this procedure when the buds on the plant are 3-4 cm. It is necessary to completely remove the cover in cloudy weather. This will reduce the risk of sunburn.

After removing the cover, it is necessary to inspect the plantings for the presence of diseased, injured, and shriveled stems. If found, they must be cut out, which is what flower growers do. The bushes should not be straightened immediately; they should lie bent to the ground for about 2 more days, otherwise there is a risk that they will break.