Grapes in the country - features of care and cultivation. Modern methods of growing table grapes Growing and caring for grapes

Grapes are small berries obtained from the plant of the same name, a popular agricultural crop in many warm-climate regions of the world. Depending on the variety, they can have a spherical or ellipsoidal shape. The color also depends on the type of plant and varies in a very wide color range, ranging from yellow to dark, almost black shades.

To date, breeders have bred more than 20 thousand varieties of grapes, each of which has its own unique taste and special effect on the human body. But it is known for sure that absolutely all varieties of this crop have a positive effect on internal organs and their functioning.

When are grapes planted?

Grapes are planted both in spring, from late March to late June, and in autumn. From the end of March to mid-May, lignified seedlings are planted, and green, vegetative seedlings are planted later, from mid-May to the end of June. Seedlings usually go on sale in the fall, and there is no need to keep them until spring, since they can become moldy, dry out, or be eaten by mice.

How to choose the right location for a vineyard?

It is best to choose places where the soil has the following indicators for organizing a vineyard: in terms of fertility, it should be black soil or forest soil. In terms of mechanical qualities, these are light loamy soils and sandy loams (loose rock with a high concentration of sand). The depth of the humus layer should be 0.6–1 m. Caring for grapes will require more attention if they are planted in sandy soil or soil with high density.

Swampy and saline soils are generally not recommended for use as sites for vineyards, as well as soil that is highly acidic. Grapes love well-lit areas; you should always pay attention to this when choosing a plot of land for a vineyard.

It is worth paying attention to the level of soil slope where the location for the vineyard is chosen.

If there is a slight slope, then it should be leveled when digging the ground. If the slope is more than 12-15 degrees, then it is necessary to make something like terraces, horizontal stepped platforms. This practice is actively used in hilly areas and in the foothills, where the vineyard site is often located on the southern slope of the hill.

Terraces should have a width of 1.5 - 3 meters and a slight slope towards the wall above the site. It is strictly forbidden to plant grapes in areas with a slope higher than 25 degrees, without additional “smoothing” or terraces.

When choosing a location for a vineyard, it is necessary to take into account the depth of groundwater. The depth of their location should reach 2.5-3 m.

If the groundwater is at a depth of no more than 1.5 m, then you should be concerned about the survival and development of grapes. If there are no more favorable places, in areas with high groundwater levels, the method of planting grapes by embankment of ridges is used.

Preparation of planting holes

Preparation of planting holes should be carried out either in the fall or 3-6 weeks before planting the cuttings. During this time, the pit will settle, and the fertilizers added to it will be absorbed by the soil and distributed throughout it.

A correctly dug hole, as indicated by the grape planting diagram (photo below), should have dimensions of 60x60x60 cm or more. When digging a hole, the fertile layer of soil should be set aside to fertilize it.

This is easy to do by mixing the soil with humus and a jar of ash. The bottom layer is mixed with crushed stone and sand and placed at the bottom of the hole by 20-25 cm. The next layer is a fertile fertilized mixture for another 20-25 cm. Then the planting material should be prepared.

Collection and storage of cuttings

You can buy grape stems for growing at home or prepare them yourself. If you choose the second option, you should follow a few simple rules:

• to select cuttings, it is necessary to choose a healthy vine that produces a large harvest of quality fruits;
• It is better to harvest chibuki from shoots that are located in the middle part of the fruit shoot or on the replacement knot;
• For chubuk, a shoot with a diameter of about 8-10 mm is suitable.

To get a high-quality grape stem for planting, you need:

• cut off the selected shoot and separate the vegetative organs - leaves, tendrils, top;
• cut the cuttings into 3-4 eyes long, while in the upper part the cut should be made obliquely from the bud at a distance of about 2 cm from it, in the lower part - 3-4 cm from the lower eye, also obliquely, at an angle of 45 degrees;
• make several cuts on the bark at the bottom;
• soak the cuttings for 12 hours in water, then soak them for 1.5 hours in a three to four percent solution of copper sulfate to disinfect;
• After this, the cuttings must be dried at room temperature.

Cuttings prepared in this way should be sealed and stored in a cool place. The bottom shelf of the refrigerator, cellar or basement is suitable for this. Please note that some of the chibouks may not take root and die, so they must be prepared with a reserve. Cuttings should be planted at home in late February or early March.

Proper preparation and storage of pipes is a key point; if everything was done correctly, the further process will not cause much difficulty.

Preparing containers for planting grapevines

To plant cuttings, you need to prepare containers for seedlings with a substrate. Typically, plastic bottles with the top cut off are used for this. You can also take simple plastic cups. A good substrate for germinating grape cuttings can be obtained by mixing soil with sand, humus and sawdust.

There should be no excess moisture; watering will be done through a tray, so you must make holes in the bottom of the cup with an awl for its drainage.

Preparing cuttings for planting

Before planting, we check the safety of the cuttings. We press on it with pruning shears:

• if a little moisture is released from the cross section, the cutting is alive and ready for planting;
• if a lot of water is released, the chibouk has rotted;
• if there is no moisture at all, the cuttings have dried out and are also unsuitable for planting.

You can also check the safety of the grape stem by cutting it: a good seedling will have a fresh cut of a light green color, while an unsuitable one will have black specks.

Cuttings suitable for planting are soaked in water for several days. Then we place it in a tub with a root formation stimulator for a day.

Germinating cuttings in a jar of water

The chibouks prepared in this way are first placed in jars of water so that the roots can germinate. You can put a 2-3 cm layer of cotton wool on the bottom of the jar and pour the same layer of water on top. Roots should appear in a few weeks.

The room in which the containers with seedlings are located should be well lit. They are usually placed on a windowsill in a room that receives the best sunlight. Precisely because sunny weather usually comes with spring, it is recommended to plant grape cuttings no earlier than the end of February.

To make seedlings grow faster, you can install fluorescent lamps above the containers with planted cuttings.

Kilching method for germinating grape cuttings

In order to ensure the best growth for grape cuttings planted in containers, you can use kilching: if the lower part of the stem is warm, roots will form faster than buds. If glasses with seedlings are on a windowsill under which there is a heating radiator, the easiest way is to remove the heat from it. To do this, you can place two bars on the window sill, and place a piece of plywood on top of them so that it protrudes beyond the edge of the window sill.

The containers are placed on plywood. It will be heated by the air rising from the battery, and thanks to this, the lower parts of the containers will be warm. There are also more complex options: for example, you can use a terrarium heater as a picker. In any case, you need to ensure that the temperature at the roots of the cutting is no higher than 30-35°C.

Transplantation into substrate

After the roots have sprouted, the cuttings must be planted in glasses with substrate. It is necessary to plant to a depth of up to 5-6 cm. If you use tall glasses made from plastic bottles, you can add such an amount of substrate to them so that the upper bud of the chibouk is at the level of the upper edge of the glass. You can water every day or every two days.

To do this, it is better to use warm water, pouring it into the tray. Another option is to water once every five days, adding a glass of water (about 100 ml) to the container at a time. In addition to regular watering, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil and sometimes fertilize. As noted above, some of the chibouks may not take root and die.

Planting chubuks in the garden

You can plant seedlings sprouted at home in a permanent place in May. It will be better if, before planting, you harden the chibouks for 5 days by placing them outside. After planting the cuttings, the soil must be watered regularly so that it remains constantly moist. Grapes propagate very well by cuttings.

If you follow these guidelines, you will be able to grow strong, healthy seedlings at home, ready to be transplanted into the soil. By autumn, vines with a strong root system will grow from cuttings planted in the garden.

How to grow grapes (Video)

Caring for grapes after planting

It is important to properly care for young cuttings:

• Grapes love loose soil with good ventilation, so it is necessary to loosen the soil often.
• Watering should be done only at the roots to prevent soil subsidence. In the first two weeks after planting, the plant especially needs watering. Because he needs to adapt to the new environment. Watering should be frequent and abundant, especially if the weather is dry.
• It is important to ensure that young seedlings are not shaded, as they need a lot of sunlight for rapid growth.
• Young leaves require additional feeding, which can be done with urea. The first spraying is carried out as soon as the leaves are formed, the next - after 2 weeks, when the vine begins to grow intensively. Further spraying schedule: every 30 days until mid-September. By performing these simple steps regularly, after 2 years you can get strong and healthy bushes, and in the third year you can reap a solid harvest.

Disease and pest control

Prevention. In order for young grape bushes to grow fully, they should be protected from pests and diseases, especially mildew. Young bushes should be sprayed in the spring with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water. In summer, spraying is carried out with a solution (25 g per 10 liters of water) of polychrome for prevention and after each rain. This precaution will protect the plants from rot and fungal diseases.

FUNGAL LESIONS

Mildew (downy mildew)

Symptoms: An oily yellow spot appears on the upper side of the leaf blades, which turns brown over time. A whitish coating (mycelium) is visible from the bottom of the foliage. Leaves, flowers, ovaries dry out.

Provoking factors:

• damp, hot weather;
• overfeeding with nitrogen.

Prevention:

• fungicide treatment ( Horus, Ridomil Gold, Strobi) before and after flowering.

Treatment:

• HOM, Oksikhom, Abiga Peak: 3–6 applications weekly, waiting period before harvesting - 1 month. The preparations are washed off by rain and may require reapplication.

Oidium (powdery mildew)

Symptoms: a grayish-white coating is visible on the foliage, which can be easily wiped off with a finger. The ovaries seem to be sprinkled with flour. The fruits crack, dry out or rot with the smell of rotten fish.

Provoking factors:

• dry heat;
• sudden changes in humidity.

Prevention (spraying with fungicides):

• Tiovit Jet(an analogue of colloidal sulfur, the most environmentally friendly) - May-June;
• Topaz(after flowering);
• Strobe or Quadris(in the phase of closure of ovaries in bunches).

Treatment:

• Tiovit Jet every 10 days (waiting period before picking berries is 3 days).

Hardy varieties: Lydia, Muscat Odessa, Firstborn of Magarach, Stepnyak, Taifi pink.

Alternaria blight

Symptoms: silvery or brownish spots on foliage and vines; the berries acquire a silvery sheen, wrinkle, and are poorly stored.

Provoking factor: humid heat.

Prevention and treatment:

• fungicides: Ridomil Gold, Bordeaux mixture (1–2%);
• biological drug Trichoderma veride.

Anthracnose (harmful in some southern areas)

Symptoms: Brown or gray spots, sores on leaves, inflorescences, stalks, berries, shoots. The berry has cankers with a dark border and a light (pinkish) center. Blackness and death of shoots and grapes.

Provoking factors:

• damp and cool start to the season;
• showers, hail

Prevention:

• copper-containing fungicides (in spring and after flowering);
• biological product Fitosporin.

Treatment:

• removal of affected areas;
• fungicides: copper-containing preparations - HOM, Oxychom, Abiga-Pik, Bordeaux mixture 1%(weekly, subject to waiting periods according to instructions).

Hardy varieties: There is no complete immunity; Arcadia, Brigantine, Vostorg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kodryanka, Riesling, Saperavi have good resistance.

Black spot (Phomopsis)

Symptoms: small black bumpy spots on young vines, black-brown spots on nodes and lower leaves; in autumn or spring the bark is dirty white with black dots; dying of sleeves, darkening and spoilage of berries.

Provoking factor: dampness.

Prevention:

• copper-containing products;
• fungicide Ridomil Gold before flowering.

Treatment: copper-containing preparations.

Cercospora

Symptoms: In the second half of the growing season, an olive coating forms on the underside of the leaf blades, dry spots and premature leaf fall occur; the fruits turn blue, harden, wrinkle, and fall off.

Prevention: treatment with copper-containing preparations in the first half of the growing season.

Esca (apoplexy)

Symptoms(old bushes get sick more often): the lower leaves change color between the veins and dry out at the edges; the fruits wrinkle and darken; the wood becomes rotten; Sometimes the plant dies quickly.

Provoking factor – wounds.

Prevention – instrument disinfection.

Treatment: Sometimes rejuvenating the bush by completely trimming the old wood helps.

Dry sleeve (spotted necrosis)

Symptoms: gradual death of sleeve tissue, weak shoots, drying out of parts of the bush.

Provoking factor: wintering under damp shelter.

Prevention: treatment before wintering (5% iron sulfate); dry shelter.

Eutyposis

Symptoms: the wood gradually darkens inside and dies in places where adult bushes are pruned (in patches); the sleeves develop weakly; At first the disease is not visible, later dark growths protrude on the trunks (after 5 years, on dead wood).

Control measures: found affected areas are cut out (and burned) at the beginning of the season.

Prevention: use of multi-sleeve and double-stamp formations.

Verticillium

Symptoms: rapid withering and death of plant parts; The sections show darkening of the affected vessels. The fungus penetrates from contaminated soil through wounds.

Treatments no, only the destruction of the diseased specimen.

Root rot

Symptoms: powdery coating on the roots and root collar, wet rot and root delamination; the bushes are stunted, turn pale, and die. Affected specimens must be destroyed.

Provoking factors: heavy and waterlogged soils; excess humus in the soil.

Botrytis (grey mold)

Symptoms: brownish spots and gray fluffy coating on buds, foliage, inflorescences, clusters, berries.

Provoking factor – dampness.

Prevention and treatment: biological agents – Alirin, Trichoderma veride, Fitosporin.

Hardy varieties early and with thick skin; relatively stable: Augustine, Delight, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kodryanka, Levokumsky sustainable, Nadezhda AZOS, Firstborn of Magarach, Russian Amber, Early Violet, Chocolate.

Berries in clusters are also affected black rottenness (black mouth) and other types of rot (white, aspergillus, etc.). The fruits dry out or rot, darken or wrinkle, acquire an unpleasant taste, and are poorly stored. Control measures are the same as for other fungal diseases (for prevention: Topaz, Ridomil Gold, copper-containing and biological fungicides).

BACTERIA

Bacterial cancer

Symptoms: On perennial branches there are light tumors, yellowish or brownish vesicular growths.

Infection comes from diseased seedlings, infected soil and tools - through wounds. Immunocompromised specimens are susceptible.

Prevention:

• grafting onto resistant rootstocks;
• disinfection of cutting tools with potassium permanganate or alcohol;
• protection of bushes from mechanical damage (especially near the ground); laying for wintering without circular twisting of the vine;
• periodic rejuvenation of bushes;
• crop rotation.

There is no cure: affected plants are dug up and burned. Sometimes cutting out diseased branches and tumors helps (with cauterization of the wounds with a 5% solution of iron or copper sulfate, pharmaceutical iodine). In many cases, the disease does not reduce yields.

Oleuron's disease (bacterial necrosis, bacterial wilt)

Symptoms: black depressed cankers on perennial branches, dryness and brittleness at the nodes; young vines are ugly, some of the buds in the cluster turn black; some sleeves are fading.

Provoking factor– cold and wet spring.

Prevention and control: spraying with Bordeaux mixture before bud break (concentration 5%) and in the growth phase of the third leaf (2%).

Hardy some hybrids with American "blood".

Bacterial spots

Symptoms: yellow and brown depressed spots on clusters and fruits; falling off of flowers and fruits.

Treatment:

• removal of affected clusters and berries;
• spraying with biological products: Fitolavin, Fitosporin.

There are many viral and mycoplasma diseases of grapes, the symptoms of which are clear from their names: yellow mosaic, viral infectious chlorosis, vein fringing, leaf curl, short nodes, wood grooves and etc.

Diseases are carried by sucking insects (scale insects, mites, nematodes, etc.), transmitted through tools and by grafting, and introduced with infected seedlings. Plants lag behind in development, bear fruit poorly, and gradually (over several years) die or wither.

PESTS

Wasps

Insects suck out the pulp of grape fruits, causing severe damage to the crop.

To catch them, bottles with meat or special poisoned baits are installed in the vineyard. It is necessary to find and destroy wasp nests.

Birds

Blackbirds and starlings peck at the filling berries, sometimes swooping in in huge flocks. Scarecrows and rattles do not save.

Shiny ribbons, stretched black and white threads, and special meshes work more successfully.

Phylloxera

This is a special grape aphid, one of the most terrible pests of grapes (native to America).

It develops in two forms: root and leaf. Insects have tiny sizes: from 0.3 to 1.35 mm. The voracious larvae suck the juices from the roots, and swellings and nodules form there. Plants become depleted, oppressed and die (after 3–5 years or later). On plantations it spreads in circles and patches.

Transported by: wind, water, animals, with planting material; crawls underground, on the ground and flies through the air. During the season it produces several generations and lays hundreds of eggs. Successful methods of destruction (other than total burning) still do not exist. So far the distribution area is southern; No phylloxera was observed in areas where the sum of active temperatures is less than 2500 degrees.

Protective measures:

• grafting onto phylloxera-resistant rootstocks;
• deep planting and catarrh (pruning of the upper roots);
• planting relatively resistant hybrids (Bukovinka, Gurzuf pink, Danko, Livadia black, Amateur, Muscat Bessarabsky, Muscat Livadia, Oleg, Risus, Rkatsiteli, Ruby Golodrigi, Takveri Magaracha, Citron Magaracha, Chocolate, Jubilee of Moldova).

Grape itch and other mites

Itching (felt mite) the size of only 0.15–0.2 mm sucks out juices by piercing the leaves from the underside. The pest itself is not visible, but at the site of its feeding, swellings appear (noticeable on the upper side of the leaf) - yellowish, brownish or reddish. Felt cobwebs accumulate in the pits below. The lower leaves are infected first, then the upper ones; gradually they dry out.

Sometimes the bunches are wrapped in felt. The bush suffers, the yield is significantly reduced. The pest is gradually expanding into more northern regions.

Other types of mites also operate in the vineyard: spider mites, leaf mites, etc.

Control measures:

• gartering shoots higher from the ground;
• timely removal of infected foliage;
• spraying with acaricides: Thiovit Jet, Akarin, Kleschevit, Fitoverm; These drugs have a very short waiting period and can be used throughout the season.

Hardy varieties: Pineapple, Consul, Moldova, In Memory of Negrul.

Leafrollers

Grapes are attacked by several species of moths 1–3 cm in size. Their caterpillars eat buds, foliage, ovaries, and fruits; pupate in cobwebs.

Control measures:

• collection and destruction of plant residues;
• spraying before flowering and immediately after it with insecticides (Fufanon-Nova, Aliot, Inta-Vir, Decis, Alatar).

Mealybug

Small insects (3 mm) and their larvae suck juices from leaves, shoots, and bunches.

Sticky discharge is visible on the affected areas. Several generations hatch during the season. The development of bushes is inhibited, the clusters dry out; there is a risk of losing up to 70% of the harvest.

pad

In spring, pests secrete whitish fluff. They feed on the underside of young leaf blades.

Control measures:

• cleaning the trunk from old bark;
• washing off pests with soapy water, tobacco or garlic infusion;
• in case of heavy infestation: treatment with insecticides in compliance with waiting periods (Aliot, Konfidor, Aktara).

Traditional methods of treatment

Experienced winegrowers give advice on processing grapes using improvised, home remedies. The recommended proportions must be observed to avoid burns.

1. Weekly infusion of cow manure (1–2 liters per bucket of water) or rotted straw: spray every 7–10 days (for a complex of diseases).
2. Leave a glass of chopped garlic in a liter of water for 24 hours, add 50 g of household goods. soap, 50 g of iodized salt, 7 liters of water, potassium permanganate up to Pink colour; strain: sprinkle 2 times during the summer against diseases.
3. 1 liter of natural milk (fat content 2.5%) + 15 drops of pharmaceutical iodine (at a concentration of 5%) + 7 liters of water: spray in the evening (after 7 pm) once a week against oidium.
4. Laundry soap (100 g diluted) in 10 liters of water: from gray rot on the ovaries.
5. 60 g of soda, 5 g of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water: from oidium to ovaries and ripening berries.
6. A week's infusion of wood ash (1 liter) in a bucket of water + 50 g of household items. soap: on ovaries and filling berries every 10 days (for diseases + feeding).
7. Dilute tar soap in water and wash the vines before wintering: against scale insects.

Harvest and storage

Harvesting

The clusters on the bush do not ripen at the same time, so they need to be collected selectively, and it is better to remove the very first clusters early, then the rest will ripen faster. First of all, we remove the lower bunches - they will not be stored for long. Usually, very early and early varieties are harvested slightly unripe, since over-ripening reduces the quality of the crop. You should not leave bunches of early varieties for long-term storage, and their value lies precisely in the possibility of fresh consumption.

Rain and fog are not the best conditions for harvesting grapes, try to do it in dry, sunny weather, because you don’t want the crop to rot quickly? We carefully cut the clusters with pruning shears or scissors so that the berries do not fall off or get damaged. In general, try not to touch the berries with your hands and not to rub off the waxy coating - this greatly reduces the shelf life. If the bunches are to be stored fresh, then it is necessary to remove dry, rotten and damaged berries from them.

Collecting grapes in buckets is not a good idea. To avoid crushing the berries, the bunches are placed in one layer in boxes or baskets.

Naturally, during the grape harvest, the vineyard cannot be treated with chemicals. Since after treatment with systemic fungicides, 10-40 days should pass. It is much easier with biological products - most of them do not have a waiting period at all, that is, you can eat grapes on the day of treatment with “trichodermin”, “phytosporin” - just wash the berries with water.

Manufacturers of insecticides “bitoxibacillin” and “lepidocide” talk about a waiting period of 5 days. Organic “actophyte” toxins break down into safe carbohydrates within 48 hours - you must admit, this is not 10, much less 40 days.

Storing grapes

Grapes are a seasonal crop, but I would like to be able to use them not only for a month or two. Not all varieties of berries are suitable for storing fresh grapes; moreover, a lot depends on the storage method and conditions. Fluctuations in temperature and humidity, sunlight and fresh indoor air reduce the shelf life and quality of grapes.

Optimal conditions are temperature 1-4°C and moderate humidity. Obviously, a refrigerator is ideal for storing grapes, but in household refrigerators there is something to store besides grapes, and large-volume devices cost accordingly.

Nowadays it is not difficult to find wooden or plastic boxes in which grapes are sold on the market - they provide good ventilation of the bunches, and racks in the corners allow you to stack the boxes on top of each other. The easiest way is to place the bunches in such boxes in one layer and regularly remove those that begin to deteriorate. Sometimes it is recommended to sprinkle the bunches with dry leaves or sawdust - this can increase the shelf life.

A common way to store fresh grapes is to hang the bunches on hooks or cut off the bunch with part of the shoot and tie it to a crossbar or wire. Although it’s even easier to spread paper on the floor and arrange the bunches in one layer. Over time, the berries will wrinkle and the ridges will become brittle, but it's better than nothing.

The bunches will be stored longer and better if, when harvesting, you cut the shoot two internodes below and one above the bunch, without touching the berries with your hands, dip the top cut in paraffin and put the entire “branch” in a bottle of water.

It is recommended to add several tablets of activated carbon to the water, and plug the neck of the bottle with a cotton plug so that the water does not evaporate and the humidity in the room does not increase. The bottles are installed obliquely, and the bunches should not touch each other. Every week the bunches are inspected, removing rotting berries along with the stalk with scissors. Periodically you need to update the lower sections and change the bottled water.

Supports and trellises

Since grapes are a vine by nature, vertical and horizontal structures or trellises should be used for its proper growth. You can make them yourself, and for decorative varieties there are various arched designs on sale.

What is vaccination and the main methods?

Grafting is a method of producing new grape varieties by introducing part of one plant into another. The new variety obtained in this way combines the positive properties of both varieties.

Vaccination is performed in one of three ways:

• into a live escape;
• into the cleft;
• V root system.

Trimming

A grape bush can produce a large number of extra shoots, so pruning the vine is considered one of the most important procedures in viticulture.

If the bush is not pruned, then the root system will not be able to provide adequate nutrition to such a number of shoots. This entails a decrease in yield, peas of berries and, ultimately, the death of the plant.

Popular grape varieties

Arcadia. Created by Ukrainian breeders from crossing Moldova and Cardinal, Arcadia is today recognized as one of the best grape varieties in many regions of the country where viticulture is developed. The variety belongs to the table variety and produces a harvest 115–120 days after the start of the growing season.

The plant forms a vigorous, early ripening vine with a powerful root system and good survival rate. Arcadia shows an average result in resistance to grape diseases; in order to protect the vine from mildew, two preventive treatments are needed; protection from powdery mildew is also required. The variety tolerates frosts down to –21 °C. When humidity changes, the berries sometimes crack, which affects the quality of the harvest.

Radiant raisins. The seedless berries of the mid-early grape Kishmish Radiant are well known to consumers. The variety, bred in Moldova from crossing the Cardinal and Kishmish pink grapes, ripens in 125–130 days and is distinguished by high yields that ripen on medium or vigorous bushes.

Kishmish Radiant is not highly frost-resistant and is susceptible to infections of this crop. At the same time, the variety is demanding of the grower’s attention, and with proper care it compensates for the efforts, producing large and medium-sized berries of golden and red-pink tones, up to 2.5 cm long and weighing up to 4 grams.

Hadji Murat. The basis for the work of Tajik scientists when breeding Hadji Murat grapes was the Zabalkansky and Hamburg Muscat varieties. As a result, the variety became one of the contenders for the title of the best grape variety for the market, and the berries on vigorous bushes ripen in 125–135 days.

Hadji Murat grapes survive frosts down to -22 °C, but feel better in a greenhouse or under winter shelter. Fruiting shoots of this variety ripen by 75% or more, supporting extremely large clusters weighing from 800 to 2500 grams and retaining their properties well during storage and transportation. The variety is high-yielding, tending to form a large amount of ovary, therefore, to ensure the quality of the berries, it is necessary to standardize the future harvest.

The clusters of Hadji Murat grapes have an even conical shape and medium density. Ripe oval berries can weigh from 15 to 25 grams, have a thick almost black color, are covered with a bluish waxy coating and have a decent taste.

Gorgeous. The beautiful dark pink berries with a deep purple tip of the Krasotka grape variety take from 110 to 110 days to ripen. Krasotka has bushes of medium vigor, well-ripening fruit-bearing shoots and smooth ones, weighing about 500–700 grams of the cluster. The variety demonstrates average resistance to common infections and pests.

The clusters contain elongated berries, about 3 cm long and weighing up to 6 grams, with a good fresh taste, juicy and quite fleshy pulp and a skin that is hardly noticeable when bitten. Krasotka grape berries can sometimes burst if there is an excess of moisture at the ripening stage. The fruits of this variety pick up sweetness well, but cannot compete in the brightness of taste with varieties for personal consumption.

Galahad. The extremely early hybrid grape Galahad in the Kuban and other viticulture regions produces a harvest within 95–100 days after the start of the growing season. The plant received the title of the best grape variety for the market due to its highest taste, good vigor of bushes, the ability to winter at air temperatures down to –25 ° C, as well as noteworthy resistance to harmful fungi and rot.

The grapes produce beautiful, medium-density, conical clusters weighing up to 1.1 kg. Average length oval, large amber berries are 2.6 cm. The weight of the fleshy, sweet berry with a pleasant texture reaches 12 grams.

Super extra. Hybrid obtained by E. Pavlovsky early date maturity produces a harvest 100–110 days after the appearance of the first leaves. By the end of July, on vigorous bushes of Super-Extra grapes, you can see large, up to 1.5 kg in weight, clusters of medium looseness. The variety is high-yielding, so the winegrower must regulate the ovaries and inflorescences.

According to the description and photo of the Super-Extra grapes, clusters consist of oval or ovoid large berries weighing 7–8 grams. The color of the berry is white or light amber. The berries gain sweetness very quickly, their pulp is pleasant, dense with a sufficient amount of juice.

Buffet. The Furshetny grape, which bears fruit 115–125 days after the start of the growing season, was bred in Ukraine by breeder V.V. Zagorulko from the Kuban variety and Gift to Zaporozhye. According to data obtained by winegrowers who have already become familiar with this grape, Furshetny has average resistance to fungal attack and successfully winters at a temperature of –22 °C. Powerful bushes of this species actively form shoots that almost completely ripen by autumn.

The brushes on the bushes are dense, closer to cylindrical in shape. The weight of a bunch, consisting of oval berries weighing up to 16 grams, is from 600 to 800 grams. The length of an individual berry is about 3.5 cm, the color is dark, reddish-violet with a pronounced waxy coating. One of the best grape varieties has a great taste with notes of raisins and ripe mulberries.

Conclusion

Growing grapes is a rather difficult undertaking, especially if it is done in the conditions of central Russia. In addition to the fact that it is necessary to create optimal conditions during the summer season, it is important to ensure that the grape bushes can survive the frosty winter well.

However, today there are many different grape varieties, among which you can find many frost-resistant ones that are ideal for such areas. The main attention should be paid to care during the growing season.

When planning to plant grapes on your site, it is worth considering a number of features of this process. After all, in order to harvest the first harvest in just a few years, it is necessary not only to choose a variety that is ideal for the area, but also to carry out proper care, taking into account all its features.

Where is the best place to plant grapes?

When choosing the most suitable place for planting grapes, you should focus not only on the aesthetic appearance of the garden, but also on the needs of the plant for its most comfortable development, and most importantly, productivity. Therefore, before purchasing seedlings for your future vineyard, you should find out a few facts about it.

• Grapes are a perennial plant, so you need to very responsibly, and most importantly in advance, select a planting site for them. It is important to take into account the biological characteristics of the selected variety in order to further obtain maximum yield.
• Another fact worth knowing about grapes is their aversion to shaded areas. Taking this into account, you need to choose the southern or western side of the site, and also avoid planting next to tall trees.
• Almost all grape varieties are heat-loving and do not tolerate temperature changes in winter season. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully select a place on the site where it will be protected from strong winds and low temperatures. In this case, the most suitable location for the plant would be near the walls of the main building or outbuildings. The thing is that during the day the walls warm up to a certain extent from the sun, which allows them to give off excess heat to the vine at night. In addition, this arrangement significantly accelerates the ripening time of berries. If the question is which grapes are best to plant, then the choice should be given to zoned seedlings.

• As for the need for a certain type of soil, in this regard, grapes are completely unpretentious. But there is still a certain nuance - seedlings planted in fertile but rocky soil differ in yield. The drainage qualities of such soil prevent stagnation of moisture, which contributes to the oversaturation of the soil with lime and salts. All this can have a negative impact on the grapes.

The best time to plant grapes

• The autumn and spring seasons are equally suitable for planting young grape seedlings in the ground. From the end of April until mid-May, annual seedlings with already lignified trunks are planted. But from the end of May and throughout June, you can plant green vegetative grapes.

• As for the autumn planting of seedlings, it is usually carried out from October until the onset of the first frost. The technique is practically no different from the spring season, with the exception of careful protection of young grapes from sudden temperature changes. As a rule, for this purpose the grapes are covered with peat, pine needles or sawdust.

How to plant grapes at home

Preparing seedlings for planting

Of course, only healthy grape seedlings are suitable for planting. How can I check this? There are several factors that indicate quality.

• The root cut of a young seedling must be white. Its brown tint indicates the unsuitability of the escape.
• The annual shoot should be mature with a bright green cut.
• A viable seedling is distinguished by dense buds that do not fall off with a light touch.

These rules are also suitable for planting virgin grapes, although they are more unpretentious.

Before planting grapes with cuttings, it is necessary to prepare them for planting:

• The cuttings are cut from below so as to leave 1 cm before the first bud and about 2 cm above the top;

• over the next 24 hours, the seedlings must be soaked in an aqueous solution with a tablespoon of honey to further stimulate growth;
• After the soaking process, the cuttings are thoroughly dried and paraffinized. To do this, you will need a liter container in which 15 grams of wax and resin, 300 grams of paraffin and water are mixed. The mixture must be heated, stirring thoroughly. The cuttings can be waxed separately or in several pieces; to do this, they are dipped with the top part into the prepared mixture, and then into a container with cold water. During the procedure, no more than 6 cm of grape seedlings are processed;
• In addition to proper pruning and processing, young grape seedlings also need a preliminary hardening procedure before directly planting in the ground. Otherwise, they may suffer significant damage in direct sunlight;
• For one week, vegetative seedlings are kept under a canopy or in the dense shade of trees. Then about 10 days under natural sunlight. As for seedlings that were grown in conditions of insufficient lighting and in violation temperature regime- for them, the acclimatization period is extended by 1.5 times. Their appearance is distinguished by more elongated shoots, and the leaves are pale green in color;
• young grape seedlings that have not undergone the proper hardening procedure and are planted in open ground at the beginning of spring, react to such conditions as to the early onset of autumn. The result is that growth stops, and the growth takes on a woody form - in this way the seedling prepares for the expected winter. This is not critical for the plant. Since closer to mid-June, these seedlings resume active growth and development.

Planting grapes in black soil and clay

The procedure for planting grapes in black soil and clay.

• A recess is prepared for the lignified seedling: 80 cm deep and 80 cm wide.
• The bottom is covered with a nutrient layer, the thickness is 25 cm. Its composition includes 10 buckets of humus mixed with fertile soil. After thorough compaction, this layer is covered with mineral fertilizers in the ratio: 300 grams of potassium fertilizers, the same amount of superphosphate per 3 liters of wood ash. This layer is also mixed with soil and lined with a thickness of 10 cm. The next 5 cm are lined only with soil. Upon completion of all manipulations, a recess of 50 cm should remain.

• The next step is to form a small mound in the center of the depression. A seedling is inserted into the middle and the roots are evenly distributed. The grapes are covered with fertile soil (chernozem or clay) to the growth level. Seedlings germinated from shortened cuttings are planted vertically, but specimens longer than 25 cm should be planted at a slight angle.
• After the seedling is installed, and all previous layers have been carefully compacted, the soil is watered with two to three buckets of water. After partial drying, the top layer is slightly loosened to a depth of about 10 cm.
• Subsequently, the grapes are watered two more times with an interval of two weeks. Then the soil is loosened and mulched again.

Advice: if you need to plant wild grapes (maiden grapes), then everything is much simpler here. It takes root best in the fall. It is enough to cut the vine of any length without roots. Lay it horizontally on the ground and dig it in with fertile soil so that all the shoots (leaves) are on the surface. In the future, an independent vine will begin to grow upward from each such leaf. In autumn there is enough rain, so watering should be done only as needed.

Planting seedlings in sandy soil

What is the difference between planting grapes in sandy soil if we compare this process, for example, with clay or black soil?

• The thing is that at low temperatures, sandy soil freezes faster and more strongly, and in the summer, accordingly, it warms up excessively. In addition, this type of soil practically does not retain moisture and nutrients, unlike fertile soil.
• All these factors must be taken into account in the process of planting grapes. Thus, the recess for the seedling should reach a meter in depth. And to maintain humidity and avoid loss of nutrients, a particularly dense layer is laid at the bottom of the pit. It is formed from clay soil to a height of at least 20 cm. Fertilizers and a nutrient mixture are poured on top of it (height - 25 cm).
• The most acceptable depth for planting a seedling in sandy soil is 60 cm. Caring for grapes will consist of regular watering, which will need to be done at intervals of seven days, 4 full buckets of water.

Planting vegetative seedlings

• The hole in the soil is prepared in the same way as when planting a lignified seedling. The difference lies in the depth of the hole; it should be 25 cm on clay and chernozem soil and about 20 cm on sandy soil. All layers are thoroughly compacted and watered with 2-4 buckets of water at weekly intervals.
• After the soil shrinks, it is necessary to make a depression of 55 cm on clay or chernozem soil and 65 cm on sand. The seedling that has undergone the hardening procedure is carefully removed from the planting container and, together with the soil, is placed at the prepared planting depth. The intermediate distance is filled with fertile soil, compacted and watered with one bucket of water.

• Having finished planting, a wooden peg is installed next to the vegetating sprout to further support the grape seedling.

Important: seedlings that have not undergone acclimatization are recommended to be shaded using a protective screen. To do this, it will be sufficient to place tree branches or sheets of plywood for 10 days on the south side of the planting.

• In the first year, you need to leave only one shoot on the seedling, carefully remove the rest and tie the grapes to a peg.

Plant grapes in spring

• Spring planting of grapes ensures that by the beginning of cold weather, they will gain the necessary power and be sufficiently saturated with nutrients. This guarantees the young seedling resistance to low temperatures.
• Preliminary soil preparation has a beneficial effect on the development of young seedlings. Thus, if the holes for grapes are prepared in advance - in the fall, then by spring the ideal basis for planting, saturated with natural fertilizers, will be ready.
• Many grape varieties are capable of producing a small harvest in the second year. But this is only in the case of spring planting. Fruiting of autumn seedlings is usually delayed by one year.

• To one more positive point can be attributed to the favorable temperature regime of the spring season. After all, in the fall the first frosts can not only damage the young shoot, but also freeze the soil.

But among so many advantages, there are a number of nuances that should be taken into account when choosing the spring season for planting grapes:

• lack of moisture. During this period, additional watering will be required, which is provided naturally in the autumn;
• lack of nutrients in the soil. This is especially true in early spring, when they need to be compensated for with additional flooring of moss, sawdust and humus;
• high-quality grape seedlings go on sale in the autumn, which is why there is a high probability of acquiring frozen samples in the spring.

And yet, spring is considered a favorable season for planting grape seedlings. Only one question arises: is it possible to plant in the ground at any time? No, you really need to choose the planting period, taking into account both the needs of the seedling and the temperature regime.

• The most optimal temperature is above 15°C. In addition, soil temperature indicators are also important, because they must reach at least 10°C. It is during this period that the best vegetation of the seedling occurs. By month, this time interval will vary by region. Since in one the last frosts end before the end of March, and in the other, nighttime temperature changes occur until mid-April.
• In addition to the temperature regime, it is important to take into account the type of seedling: vegetative or woody. The first option is available for sale in small containers with soil. Such seedlings are distinguished by the presence of young shoots with leaves. Favorable landing period: from mid-May to the end of June. But the woody seedling is particularly vital, as it has a formed root structure and buds. Therefore, even with early planting, for example, in mid-April, it will already be able to withstand changing climatic conditions.

How to plant grapes in the fall

There are also many peculiarities in planting grape seedlings in the autumn. The advantages include the following factors.

• The level of humidity at this time of year has a positive effect on the growth and formation of young shoots of grapes. Additional watering is only required in the first few weeks after planting.
• Autumn seedlings tend to develop earlier and begin to bear fruit.
• But the main disadvantage is the fact that it is not easy for young seedlings to withstand frosts and gusty winds, even with proper shelter.

• When choosing a period for planting grape seedlings in the ground, it is worth considering not only the advantages and disadvantages of each of them, but also the characteristics of the selected variety.

Plant grapes video

General rules for planting grapes

• The most important thing for the development of grapes is the right soil. Fertile lands: black soil and light soils are exactly what seedlings need.
• In addition, it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater. If their fluctuation reaches a depth of 1.5 meters, then it is imperative to equip a drainage system.
• An important point is fertilizing the soil with mineral additives and timely watering.
• Planting grapes involves a placement scheme for seedlings in which they receive the maximum amount of lighting and do not disturb the mutual growth of the root system.
• When planting grape seedlings on a site, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters.
• When placing seedlings near buildings, the distance should be at least 0.5 meters.
• The distance from dense and tall trees and bushes is 0.5-0.7 meters.

How to plant grapes correctly. Common Mistakes

• Planting seedlings with a weak root system - they may either not take root at all or be delayed in development. In addition, such shoots are unlikely to produce a good harvest.
• Purchasing seedlings of an unknown variety may result in the need to uproot and purchase a new one. For seedlings that do not correspond to the climatic zone, the fruits do not have time to ripen during the season, so replacement will also be required in the future.
• A common mistake is to plant grapes near trees and in the north side near buildings on the site. In this case, the plant will spend all its energy on growth, the harvest will be small and it will be located on the upper shoots.
• When forming a shallow hole for planting, you need to know that this will limit the seedling in nutrients and affect its development.
• Excessive deepening will slow growth due to exposure to low temperatures in deep soil layers.
• But shallow burial will affect the seedling’s water consumption and will make it impossible to cover the vine for the winter.
• Thickening of the grape planting will lead to an increase in the number of fungal diseases, in addition, the seedlings will compete for water consumption and lighting.
• Planting only female varieties without potential pollinator varieties can lead to crop reduction. It is recommended to plant one pollinating bush for every six “female” bushes.

Planting young grape seedlings is a rather labor-intensive process. It is important not only to select shoots that can withstand climatic conditions and soil properties, but also to carry out high-quality preparation for planting. Compliance with all the nuances guarantees good indicators of development and fruiting of the future vineyard.

Grapes are one of the oldest crops that man began to grow. It is not for nothing that it is called the “berry of life”, because it contains a huge amount of vitamins and antioxidants beneficial to the body. Many people mistakenly believe that fruit-bearing grapevines can only be grown in the southern regions. Many frost-resistant varieties have been bred, so planting and caring for grapes can be carried out even in middle lane Russia.

Planting grapes on a personal plot

Before you buy a seedling, you need to choose the appropriate variety. The gardener must take into account a number of factors: frost resistance, requirements for care, ripening time of berries and much more. The following varieties are suitable for cultivation in the northern part of the country:

• Isabella is a high-yielding variety that can withstand frosts down to -32 °C;
• Riesling is a wine variety that does not require special care and tolerates frosts down to -26 °C;
• Alpha is a variety that is resistant to a number of diseases and can withstand frosts down to -29 °C;
• Nina – unpretentious variety, the berries are slightly sour and tolerate frosts down to -25 °C;
• Amur grapes are an early ripening variety that can withstand frosts down to -29 °C.

Before purchasing, the seedling should be carefully examined; it must be strong, without signs of any disease.

When to plant grapes, choosing a location on the site

When and how to plant grapes so that the seedlings take root faster? This question is often asked by beginning gardeners. It all depends on the planting material. Lignified shoots are planted from the 20th of April until the end of May, depending on weather conditions. More tender, green seedlings are not earlier than the first numbers of June. Professionals recommend planting from September 20 to October 10; it is believed that in the fall the seedlings adapt to the cold faster and endure the winter more easily. In this case Special attention You will need to pay attention to covering the plants.

The grapes prefer sunny areas, so it is best to plant them along a wall or fence on the south side. It is unpretentious in the choice of soil, but in areas where the soil is too dense, it is necessary to add drainage when planting; if, on the contrary, it is a peat bog, it should be diluted with sand. Grapes can be grown in almost any area; they will not grow only on salt marshes and in areas where groundwater passes close to the surface.

Planting grape seedlings

For planting, prepare a hole measuring 80x80x80 cm. A peg is placed exactly in the middle, and a layer of gravel or broken brick (drainage) is poured onto the bottom; a 10-centimeter layer is enough. Next, humus or cow manure (three 10-liter containers) is placed in the hole, and potassium salt (100 g), superphosphate (250 g) and ash (slightly smaller than a shovel) are sprinkled on top. Fill no more than a third of the hole with garden soil and water it abundantly.

Next, the question arises, how to plant grapes correctly? A mound is made around the peg (support) and the roots of the seedling are straightened on the resulting elevation, tying it with a flap soft fabric to the support. The seedling should be planted at the same level at which it grew in the shipping container. The remaining soil is carefully distributed around the plant and the soil is slightly compacted. It is recommended to mulch the circle around the trunk using humus, compost or peat; a layer thickness of 3 cm is sufficient.

What to do next, how to grow grapes garden plot? You can immediately prepare the supports, which consist of a frame and thick wire. The first stretch should take place at a level of 30 cm from the ground, the second - 50 cm and the third - 70 cm. If several specimens are planted, then a distance of at least one and a half meters must be maintained between the seedlings. When planting grapevines along walls or fences, you should retreat 45 cm.

Features of grape care

When growing a plant such as grapes on a plot of land, planting and caring for it at the initial stage may seem to be a somewhat difficult task for the gardener. In fact, most of the work has already been done and as soon as the seedling takes root, all that remains is to regularly trim and pinch the shoots, water and fertilize.

Watering grapes

For good growth and fruiting, the plant needs enough moisture, but excessive dampness should be avoided. If the summer is not too dry, then 5 procedures per season are enough. Water for irrigation is used warm, previously settled in a barrel. After watering, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed if necessary.

Fertilizer application

Growing grapes on a personal plot is unthinkable without regular fertilizing. In the active growth phase add mineral fertilizers, a total of 3 procedures should be performed per season. In the fall, once every 2 years, cow manure is added during digging at the rate of 7 kg per 1 m² of planting.

The grapevine will begin to bear fruit only in the third year after planting.

Grapevine pruning

Young seedlings are pruned as soon as the length of the side branches reaches 12 cm. During the first pruning, 4 strong shoots are left on the central stem and 2 on the cuttings. Further adjustments to the branches are carried out annually. A week before flowering begins, the top of the vine is pinched, this is done in order to get more side shoots. To ensure that the clusters ripen well, the leaves that shade them are removed. All weak, dry and damaged branches are also broken off.

The vine grows very quickly, so every autumn the branches are thinned out, removing young green shoots with garden pruners. Lignified branches are cut off by no more than 2/3, the cut should be at a right angle.

Preparing the vineyard for winter

After planting the grapes, caring for them continues until the cold weather. In autumn, shortly before the onset of frost, the ground around the plants is mulched; the layer thickness should be 6-8 cm. Sawdust, shavings, peat or humus are used as materials. The vine is carefully bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches or special material. If the frost-resistant variety is chosen, and the winter is expected to be snowy but mild, then there is no need for additional shelter.

For the first 2-3 years, young seedlings that are grown in a moderately warm climate must be covered for the winter, regardless of the chosen variety. .

Considering that grapes are a heat-loving plant, many gardeners living in the northern part of the country have come up with a number of tricks to create a favorable microclimate for plants.

Before planting seedlings, a wooden screen about a meter high is installed along the ridge on the north side. On the planting side, it is sheathed with sheets of iron and painted dark green or dark brown. Iron, heated in the sun, creates an optimal microclimate in the vineyard, even if the weather outside is not hot. In addition, the screen will reliably protect the plantings from cold northern winds.

When growing grapes, you can resort to one more trick. A furrow is dug 25 cm from the seedlings and placed there glass bottles from under wine or beer, bottoms up. The bottles are placed close to each other and buried, leaving only 4-5 cm on the surface. This kind of “solar battery” in clear weather can warm the soil up to 30 cm.

Video on how to grow grapes

Every gardener dreams of having a well-groomed vineyard. At the moment, grapes have many varieties that are suitable for growing in different areas. The grapes can grow both in areas with a short summer period and in warm areas. To select the right one for a certain climate zone, it is necessary to propagate this berry by cuttings. This kind of work is quite responsible, but in the end the gardener will get the result he needs.

Pros of growing from cuttings

A cutting is a part of a stem with several buds. For propagation at home, lignified branches are taken from a mature vine. Another name for them is cuttings or chibuki.

Any gardener, even a beginner, can propagate grapes from cuttings. This method has many advantages:

• the possibility of obtaining a large number of seedlings;
• seedlings are easy to transport, send by mail and store;
• ease of treatment against pests and diseases;
• low cost of seedlings.

Lignified cuttings are planted in open ground (in autumn or spring), but at the end of winter or spring they are rooted at home.

Growing grapes from cuttings at home provides a good opportunity to obtain full-fledged seedlings in regions where covered viticulture is widely used (Urals, Siberia, Moscow region).

Advantages of growing from cuttings at home:

• the process of development and acceleration is controlled;
• absence of negative weather factors;
• takes up little space;
• a good leap in time, which will allow you to increase your planting bushes in the current season.

Preparation of material for planting

For germination in the winter-spring period, cuttings are selected from a mature (brown, crackling when bent, woody) annual vine. They are harvested during the grape bushes (approximate period is October, before the onset of the first frosts). In non-covered areas, stems for propagation are pruned at the end of November and in winter - from the vine, without any symptoms of drying out or freezing.

Propagation material is best obtained from the healthiest and most productive bushes that have typical varietal characteristics. These are bushes with even branches, without defects or spots. The middle part of the shoots that have sprouted from the central buds of two-year-old branches is selected for cuttings.

The normal thickness of cuttings is considered to be from 0.5 to 1 centimeter (for a variety with a thin vine, this norm may be smaller). Fattening and thick stems have loose wood, so they are not suitable for propagation.

Dimensions and cutting of cuttings

The length of the cutting is measured not in centimeters, but in the number of eyes (buds) located on it.

The most commonly used are two-eyed and three-eyed, although one-eyed and four-eyed are also suitable. When cutting branches, the stepsons, tendrils and remaining foliage are cut off. It happens that long vines (50-100-170 cm) are stored in winter, and cutting is carried out before rooting.

The upper cut is made straight, the height above the upper bud is 2-4 centimeters. The lower cut is made obliquely under the lower bud, and the indentation should be small. At first, novice gardeners cannot determine where the top part is and where the bottom part is. It is by the method of cutting that this issue can be resolved.

Chubuki are tied into bundles and tied in two places. Tags indicating the name of the variety are attached to the tied bunches. After this, the bundles should be stored for several months. Before this, they are processed.

Preparing cuttings for storage

Chubuki needs:

• soak in water for 12 hours, laying them horizontally so that a small layer of water completely covers them;
• to disinfect: dip for 15 seconds in a solution of copper sulfate (400 grams per 10 liters of water) or iron sulfate (300 grams per 10 liters of water). After treatment with iron sulfate, the vine will turn black - this is a normal reaction;
• dry on fabric or paper for several hours;
• wax the sections (tips). Dip in paraffin, which is melted in a water bath and slightly cooled (not all gardeners use this method);
• Before storing, wrap in cling film or plastic bag.

If all these steps are followed, the cuttings will be well preserved.

Watch the video! Preparation and storage of grape cuttings

Preserving cuttings before planting

For storage ideal conditions consider:

• air humidity – from 80 to 95%;
• temperature - from 1 to 4 degrees (but not higher than +8).

Planting material should be stored in the refrigerator or basement, as well as outside - in a trench or in a snowdrift.

Storage locations for cuttings:

Treatment before rooting

Before rooting, it is necessary to check the condition of the materials for planting: good ones - prepare for germination, bad ones - throw them away. If traces of mold appear on the seedlings, they must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Security check:

• The bark is examined: healthy - without blackening and wrinkles;
• A transverse cut is made in the stem. All wood and cambium under the bark should have a light green tint. Brown, white or black tint is an indicator of death;
• When pressing on the cut, a little moisture should be released. If there is no or a lot of it, then the rooting process will be low.

Soak

After checking for , the chubuks are placed in a container of water for a period of 12 hours to 2 days. It is necessary to soak both overdried and normal chibouks. The room temperature is approximately +20 degrees. The water is changed every 12 hours. There are times when honey is added to water (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Trimming

A long vine is cut into chibouks with 2-3 buds. If pruning was done in the fall, then the lower cuts are renewed before rooting. They are made under the lowest nodes - on a wedge or obliquely. The work is carried out with a sharp knife to avoid squeezing the tissue. The cut branches are immediately placed in a container with water at the bottom.

Furrowing

The best place for root formation is the place where callus flows onto the wound surfaces. This phenomenon can be triggered manually. The lower part of the cuttings is scratched with a knife, making several longitudinal grooves. It is necessary to go deep to the wood or cambium. The length of the scratches is approximately 3-6 centimeters.

Processing by simulator

The lower part of the cuttings is soaked in one of the liquid root formation stimulants (solution of Zircon, Heteroauxin, Potassium Humate - according to the instructions) or treated with Kornevin.

After processing, the chibuki must be placed in 3–4 centimeters of water until the time for planting approaches.

After two weeks, the top bud will begin to bloom, and the seedling will begin to absorb water, so it needs to be topped up.

Rooting of seedlings

After 10 days, after the first bud has blossomed, the first roots will appear. When the root system develops, the chibuki are planted in a container with a special substrate. A special drainage is placed at the bottom of the container, and then a grape substrate. The seedling is filled to the top so that the top bud remains on the surface. After rooting, the seedling is watered and placed on the sunny side for productive growth. For survival, some gardeners feed young grapes. Grapes are grown from cuttings only with the rooting process.

Watch the video! How to root a grape cutting

Picking grapes

Kilching is the process of creating a temperature difference in the lower and upper parts of the chibuka: below is warm, above is cool. Kilching increases the chance of rooting.

When sprouting, the problem arises of bud sprouting earlier than root growth. There are times when greenery appears on a seedling and, before it has time to take root, it becomes exhausted and dies. It is kilching that can solve this problem. At home, in practice, it is carried out in the following ways:

• Containers with cuttings are placed on a radiator or in a special keel for bottom heating (temperature from +20 to +27 degrees). The temperature in the upper part should be from +5 to +10 degrees. To create such conditions, the culver must be placed in a cool room. In the absence of a piercer, the containers are kept on the battery, while a protective curtain-screen is constructed between the warm air of the room and the cool window;
• High productivity is achieved by upside down kilching. The moistened material is placed at the top, which is covered with a heated lid. This method prevents the bud from blooming before the root system.

Planting seedlings in school

A shkolka is a pre-prepared area of ​​soil where grape seedlings are planted. This should be an area well lit by the sun. Boarding at school is carried out as follows:

• In the spring, the soil is dug up to a depth of 40 centimeters;
• On square meter one bucket of humus, two of sand and a scoop of wood ash are added to the plot;
• The soil is dug up again;
• Make small mounds in which the seedlings will be planted, after waxing the buds.

School care

During the period of seedling germination at home, the school soil must be kept loose and free of weeds. After rain or each watering, the soil is fluffed up. You can use organic fertilizers every time you water. In August, chasing is done for better ripening of the vines. In the fall, when 1-2 mature shoots appear, the chubuk will be ready to be transplanted to a permanent place.

Growing grape seedlings in spring

In spring, it is easier to grow grapes from seedlings, but not everyone will be able to do this due to weather conditions. When growing, a special technique is followed:

• Woody and healthy shoots are cut off. They should be smooth and have swelling buds. Ready cuts are infused in water;
• The shoots are cut and distributed into chibouks with 2-3 buds. The lower cuts are made oblique;
• Each chubuk is planted in a jar or glass. Cultivation must be carried out in a warm, dark place until the seedling begins to develop its root system and take root;
• This growing of seedlings occurs all summer, and in the fall they are sent for preservation;
• Next spring, planting is done in a temporary place, and in the fall - in a permanent place.

Conclusion

Grapes are a berry with a special taste that can be grown using cuttings. Compliance with all rules and recommendations will allow any gardener to achieve the desired result. This method of planting grapes will ultimately result in a healthy plant with high productivity. Everyone knows that when buying seedlings you can end up with defective ones that are unsuitable for a certain area. Therefore, growing by cuttings allows you to avoid such problems and grow the variety that is needed. The training video in our article will show you how to grow grapes correctly.

Watch the video! Growing seedlings from cuttings

Such a shrubby perennial vine as cultivated grape (Vitis vinifera) is related to the grape genus of the grape family. This plant is grown in regions with temperate and subtropical climates in almost every country. This species cannot be found in the wild. It was born in ancient times from wild forest grapes, which were distributed from the southern coast of the Caspian Sea to the northern coast of the Mediterranean Sea.

Grapes are among the plants that people were the first to cultivate. The fact that this plant has really been known to man since ancient times is evidenced by bas-reliefs and frescoes in the tombs of the pharaohs. There are also written documents from which it can be understood that grapes were grown 7 thousand years ago, and wine was made from their fruits. 4 thousand years ago, viticulture flourished in Mesopotamia (Babylon and Assyria). This plant was also cultivated by the ancient Greeks, and they carried on a lively trade with India and Central Asia. Until the beginning of the 17th century, Russia had only imported wine made from grapes. The first vineyard was planted in Astrakhan, and this happened in 1613, it was at this time that this crop began to be grown in Russia. The best varieties grapes from Hungary were ordered by Peter the Great himself, while he invited winemakers and breeders from France. Today, this culture is still very popular as it was thousands of years ago. The fruits of this plant are used to make juice, compote, wine, raisins, jam, vinegar, marinade, and can also be eaten fresh. Valuable oil is extracted from grape seeds, which is widely used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Dolma, cabbage rolls, etc. are prepared from grape leaves.

In the southern regions, cultivated grapes can reach from 30 to 40 meters in length, while in mid-latitudes it does not exceed 3 meters. The branch of such a plant clings to the support with its tendrils. Old trunks are covered with peeling, deeply furrowed bark Brown. The color of young stems is pale yellow or light red. Alternately arranged solid leaf plates consist of 3 or 5 blades and have petioles. The loose or dense panicle-shaped inflorescence consists of small pale green bisexual flowers. This crop blooms in May–June, with fruit ripening observed in August or September (for some varieties in October). The clusters of various shapes consist of juicy fruits, inside of which there are 1–4 seeds; there are varieties without seeds at all. The color of the fruit varies, for example: green, purple-black, yellow, pink and dark red. As a rule, there is a waxy coating on the surface of the fruit. Such a plant lives for a very long time, namely 130–150 years.

What time to plant

Planting grapes can be done in the spring, namely, from the end of March to the last days of June. Or you can postpone it until the fall. Lignified seedlings are planted from the last days of March to mid-May. Planting of growing green seedlings should be done from mid-May to last days June. As a rule, grape seedlings are sold in the autumn, and after purchasing they are recommended to be immediately planted in open ground, and not stored until spring, because over the winter they can dry out or become moldy, and rodents can also harm them. In this regard, planting grapes in the autumn is not only possible, but also necessary. If you buy healthy seedlings and follow all the rules of agricultural technology when planting, the grapes will definitely grow. Tips for choosing a healthy seedling:

1. The root cut should be painted not brown, but white.
2. If the annual shoot has matured well, then it should be rich green when cut.
3. If you touch the eye, it should remain in place and not fall off.
4. The seedling should not be overdried.

In order for the planted seedlings to take root well and quickly, they need to be prepared. Immediately before planting, the root system of the grapes should be placed in clean water for 12–24 hours. The annual shoot should be pruned to a height of 3–4 buds. On the upper nodes, all the roots must be removed, while on the lower ones they are only shortened a little.

The area for planting grapes should be located on the western, southern and southwestern sides of the building or other structure. The fact is that for normal growth and development the plant needs a large amount of light and heat. Experts recommend cultivating such a vine in the middle part of the slope, since in the lower part there is a high probability of freezing. A distance of at least 5–6 m should be maintained between any tree and grapes.

Planting grapes in spring

When planting this plant in clay or black soil, the size of the planting hole should be 0.8x0.8x0.8 m. If the soil is sandy, then the depth of the planting hole should be at least 1 m, and its preparation should be done in the autumn so that the soil has time to settle during the winter months. The advantages of deep planting are that the plant will root relatively quickly, and its roots will be reliably protected from severe winter frosts. The bottom of the pit must be filled with crushed stone, and the layer thickness should be from 10 to 15 centimeters. A plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm should be inserted into this layer, 10 centimeters from the wall of the pit. You will need a long pipe; it should rise 10–15 centimeters above the surface of the site. Then, at the bottom of the pit, a layer of chernozem fifteen centimeters thick is made, 200 grams of superphosphate and 150 grams of potassium fertilizer (potassium magnesia, potassium sulfate or potassium sulfate) are poured on top of it. Then the fertilizers must be evenly distributed along the bottom. If desired, instead of mineral fertilizers, you can take a full 3-liter jar of wood ash. A layer of nutritious soil should be poured over the fertilizer, the thickness of which should be 15 centimeters. Everything is leveled, and fertilizers are distributed on top, which should be taken in the same quantity. You need to re-pour a layer of nutritious soil on top. Then everything is thoroughly compacted and 50–60 liters of water are poured into the hole. The pit must be left until spring.

When you start planting grapes in the spring, you should first place a mound of nutritious soil at the bottom of the hole right in the center. Immediately before planting, the root system of the plant is dipped into mash, which must be prepared as follows: pour 1 small spoon of humate into 1 bucket of water and mix everything well, then add such an amount of clay so that the resulting mass is similar in consistency to store-bought sour cream. Then the grapes are placed in a hole, they are placed on a mound with the root heel to the south and the buds to the north. The roots must be carefully straightened and covered with a ten-centimeter thick layer of fertile soil. You need to fill the hole to the top with a mixture consisting of equal parts of sand and black soil. Compact the soil around the plant. The surface of the pit must be covered with black garden film, while holes must be cut for the grapes and for the pipe. The seedling should be covered plastic bottle volume 5 or 6 liters with a cut neck. The seedling will need to be watered through a buried pipe (drainage hole).

Using the method described above, a shortened seedling is planted. If it exceeds 25 centimeters in length, then it is planted in the same way, but the seedling is placed at an angle.

You can plant such a vine in the fall from the first days of October until the soil freezes. The procedure for planting a seedling itself is no different from the spring one, except that it will need to be prepared for wintering. To do this, it is necessary to hill the grapes high and cover them with pine needles. The surface of the tree trunk circle must be covered with a layer of peat or sawdust. It is not recommended to plant a seedling in a newly made hole, so it should be prepared 14–20 days before planting. The fact is that when the soil begins to settle, it will injure the root system of the seedling, and it will be dragged along with it.

There are gardeners who recommend using more the easy way planting grape seedlings in open soil. For this you will need a crowbar. It needs to be driven into the ground 50 cm deep, and then by shaking it from side to side, expand the hole so that its diameter is about 10–12 centimeters. After this, all that remains is to place the seedling in the resulting hole and bury it. However, this method is untested and does not provide a 100% guarantee of the survival rate of planting material, so it’s up to you to decide whether to use it for planting grapes or not.

Grape care

Caring for grapes is quite difficult, but over time, when you gain experience, it will be much easier. Moreover, the reward for your labors will be a rich harvest of delicious fruits.

After the air temperature outside in spring is above minus 5 degrees, the shelter can be removed from the grapes. If there is a high probability of return frosts, then there is no need to remove the entire shelter; just make a few holes in it for ventilation. Once the threat of frost is behind us and buds begin to sprout, the cover must be removed. If you want to protect the plant from frost, then treat it with Epin dissolved in cold water. The vine will need to be sprayed 1 or 2 days before frost, but it should be taken into account that the protective effect of Epin lasts up to one and a half weeks.

If a puddle forms near the bush when the snow melts, you need to scoop it out, or you can make several grooves in the soil through which the liquid will drain on its own. In order to avoid stagnation of water near the bush, it should be planted on a slope or a mound of soil should be made for it. The grapes will need sanitary pruning, during which all injured and frost-damaged stems should be removed. Then you need to tie the vine to the bottom wire in an inclined or vertical position. Next, a thorough examination of the plant is carried out; if any diseases are detected, then you must take all necessary measures to treat it. If the bush is absolutely healthy, then it will need to be sprayed with Nitrafen solution (200 grams of product per 1 bucket of water), this will help protect the grapes from various diseases and pests.

If desired, grapes can be propagated by grafting and this procedure is best carried out in the spring before sap flow begins. At the same time, you should add a complex fertilizer to the soil, which does not contain microelements (Kemira or Nitrophoska). Then you need to dig up the soil in the tree trunk circle and water it to increase the temperature in the soil layers in which the plant’s root system is located.

Spring is the time to plant new seedlings. At the same time, they begin to form the bushes. To do this, you should break off all unnecessary stems, and this procedure is repeated several times until the length of the required shoots is 0.4 m. You should also cut out all the root shoots and excess buds. After 2 pairs of leaf blades grow on the pagons, the young bushes will need to be treated with a fungicide. In the first days of May, young shoots should be tied to the trellis. The grapes are fertilized with complex fertilizer 1.5 weeks before they bloom. After the appearance of inflorescences, their number must be normalized, this will avoid overloading the plant.

In summer, special attention should be paid to timely pinching of the vine, because it should not grow longer than 1.7 m. Until the middle summer period This vine needs to be fed 2 times. Also, in time, remove all the stepsons that the grapes form so that it does not waste its energy on them, because it needs them for the formation of stems and ripening of fruits. In mid-July, it will be necessary to cut out those leaf plates that cover the berries from sunlight.

Every day it is necessary to inspect the bushes in order to promptly detect pests or a developing disease. In the first weeks of summer, for preventive purposes, grapes should be sprayed with Ridomil to protect them from a disease called mildew, and a dose of Fufanon (a drug against spider mites) should be added to the solution prepared according to the instructions. Please note that you need to mix ready-made solutions. In the first days of July, you will need to spray the plant with this product again.

What is the care for the grapes once all the fruits are harvested? The most important thing to do in the fall is to prepare the plant for the coming winter. At this time, the liana is greatly weakened, because it spends a lot of energy on fruiting, and therefore it must be fed with organic fertilizer, which is combined with wood ash. The plant should also be treated against pests and pathogenic microorganisms that can greatly harm weakened grapes. After all the leaf plates have fallen from the bush, you can begin formative pruning. But at the same time, remember that you cannot delay this procedure too much, because during frost the wood will be extremely fragile and pruning the shoots at this time will cause serious harm to the vine.

If you are growing a variety that has low winter hardiness, then you must cover such bushes for the winter. Without exception, all grape varieties will need shelter for the winter if such a plant is cultivated in a region with frosty winters. To do this, it is necessary to cover the base of the grapes high with soil, and also shorten the vines so much that they can be easily bent to the surface of the site. To cover this crop, spruce branches are used. If the winter is frosty, then the shelter should be covered with a layer of snow on top.

Many gardeners are confident that chemicals are able to restore health to all affected stems and branches of the plant, but this is misleading. The fact is that any such drug can only destroy pathogenic microorganisms that cause diseases, but it will not be able to heal the affected tissues. Therefore, the importance of preventive treatments for grapes is difficult to overestimate. They will be able to protect the plant from various dangerous pests and diseases. In the spring, after the length of the green shoots is 10 centimeters, the plant should be sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur (1%), Bordeaux mixture (3%) or copper oxychloride. This will improve the immune system of grapes against felt mites and various fungi. In addition to these fairly popular means among gardeners, you can use a solution of Ridomil (50 to 60 grams per 1 bucket of water) or Polychoma (80 grams per 1 bucket of water). The solution for preventive treatment can be combined with a foliar feeding agent, for example, Plantafol. Spraying grapes at this time is called “fifth leaf”.

Then you will need to spray the plant before it blooms or at the buds. Remember that during flowering all treatments are strictly prohibited. For this spraying, you should take a systemic fungicide, for example, Strobi. When the grapes finish flowering, they will need to be sprayed again with a systemic fungicide. After the berries are similar in size to peas, the bushes will need to be sprayed with one of those preparations that were used in the spring, namely: copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture, colloidal sulfur, Ridomil or Polychom. The last time during the season the vine should be sprayed against oidium and mildew at the end of July, and it is necessary to use short-term means, for example: Tiovit Jet and Quadris or Tiovit Jet and Strobi, or colloidal sulfur and Strobi.

This processing scheme is approximate. Remember, to prevent pathogenic microorganisms and pests from developing resistance to a particular drug, they should be replaced every year.

The plant should be watered for the first time this season immediately after the winter shelter has been removed and the vine is tied to the lower horizontal guide of the trellis. Young plants (up to 3 years old) should be watered through a buried plastic pipe. For 1 vine, take 40 liters of lukewarm water mixed with 0.5 liters of wood ash. The second watering is carried out 7 days before flowering, and the third - when the plant fades. After the green fruits begin to change their color to the color characteristic of the variety, you should stop watering the grapes. However, 7 days before covering the plant for the winter, it will need pre-winter moisture-recharging watering. Young specimens of wine varieties and table varieties should be watered 4 times during the season. Mature wine grapes need to be watered only once during the entire season, and this watering will be pre-winter watering.

If all the necessary fertilizers were added to the soil during planting of the seedling, then the grapes should have enough fertilizer for 3–4 years. Most often to given date The vine will already be fully formed and begin to bear fruit, and therefore it will need additional nutrients. What do experts recommend using to feed this plant so that it develops better and produces a rich harvest? Both mineral and organic fertilizers are used for fertilizing. Most often, manure is used as organic matter, since it contains all the nutrients that such a vine needs. If desired, manure can be replaced with compost, bird droppings or peat. Grapes also need mineral fertilizers. It is fed with simple nitrogen-containing fertilizers such as urea or ammonium nitrate. Simple or double granulated superphosphate is used as a phosphorus-containing fertilizer. The recommended potassium fertilizers are potassium salt, Ecoplant, potassium sulfate or potassium chloride. The following complex mineral fertilizers are best suited for such a plant: Florovit, Master, Mortar or Kemira.

The first time you need to feed the plant with dry fertilizer is after the winter shelter has been removed. To do this, use a nutrient mixture consisting of 45 grams of nitrogen and 30 grams of potassium fertilizer, as well as 40 grams of superphosphate (calculated for 1 bush). A groove is made around the plant, into which the nutrient mixture is poured, then it is covered with a layer of soil.

For the second time during the season, the grapes need to be fed 7–10 days before they bloom; an aqueous solution is used for this. To prepare it you need to combine 10 liters chicken manure or slurry and 20 liters of water. The container with the mixture is tightly closed; it will be ready after it has fermented for 10–12 days. Then the mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5 or 1:6. In 10 liters of the prepared solution, add 25 grams of superphosphate and 15 grams of potassium fertilizer. For 1 bush take 10 liters of ready-made nutrient mixture.

When the berries just begin to ripen, the vines should be fed with superphosphate (50 grams per bush) and potassium fertilizer (20 grams per bush).

Also, foliar feeding has a positive effect on the growth and development of the plant; it is recommended to carry it out in conjunction with spraying the bushes with a fungicide against mildew disease. The nutrient mixture used for this type of feeding may contain both basic nutrients (phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium), and additional elements that grapes need, namely: zinc, copper, manganese, boron, molybdenum and cobalt. Experienced gardeners recommend choosing ready-made preparations for such fertilizing, for example: Novofert, Plantafol, Kemira or Aquarin.

By tying this vine to a support, you can form a bush that will be very easy to care for. If the garter is not done, the grapes will begin to cling to the supports that are in its path, in this case you will no longer be able to control its growth, harvesting the fruits will become much more difficult, and their quantity and quality may disappoint the gardener.

This plant should be tied up in 2 stages:

1. Dry gartering is done at the beginning of the spring period, after the winter cover is removed, but before the buds open. To do this, you need to bend all the existing branches to the lower horizontal guide of the trellis and tie them to it. Try to ensure that the tied branches are curved smoothly, in this case the conducting system will not be disrupted, and the necessary nutrients will flow to the eyes.
2. The green garter is made after the green shoots begin to grow and their length is at least 0.4 m. The garter of young shoots should be done at an angle, in this case they will be evenly illuminated and will not break from gusts of wind. After the shoots grow to the next horizontal guide, they will need to be tied to it. During the growing season, young stems will need to be tied to the support 3 or 4 times. Green shoots are not tied at the top internode. You should try to attract them with wire between the third and second buds from the end of the stem.

Experts advise using the horizontal and inclined method for tying vines, because it is very convenient. However, there are winegrowers who prefer a garter with a ring, an arc, or strictly vertically. For gartering, it is recommended to use a washcloth soaked in water or a special rope (wire wrapped in paper). To prevent the shoots from abrading on the wire, you need to secure the cord or sponge with a “figure eight”; to do this, they are passed between the metal and the stem.

Grape pruning

Grapes are pruned in autumn. The fact is that if this procedure is carried out in the spring, the wounds will heal for a long time, bleeding with “tears”. If the eyes are filled with sap, this will lead to their souring and death. This can even lead to the death of an entire bush.

In early spring, pruning of this vine is done only when absolutely necessary and only after the air warms up to 5 degrees. In this case, injured or diseased branches on young bushes or bushes planted in autumn should be removed.

Summer pruning

In the summer, pruning as such is not carried out. At this time, pinching, pinching, chasing grapes is carried out, as well as breaking out excess branches and removing foliage that shields the berries from the sun. All these procedures are necessary in order to improve the ventilation of the plant, as well as for the uniform distribution of lighting and nutrition. And the main goal of such procedures is a rich harvest.

In autumn, the plant is pruned in 2 stages. After the bushes are freed from fruits, it is necessary to clean the branches from fruit-bearing links, as well as from tops and weak shoots. Half a month after the leaf fall ends, it is necessary to begin the second stage of pruning. Don't worry about branches being damaged by frost. The fact is that the first frosts will only harden the grapes. But it should be taken into account that pruning can be carried out at an air temperature of at least minus 3 degrees, otherwise the stems will be too fragile.

Pruning a seedling is quite simple. To do this, you need to cut off all excess stems, leaving 3–8 branches on the bush that grow at an angle from the ground.

It is more difficult to prune mature grapes:

1. From the beginning to mid-September, it is necessary to cut out all the young stems from the lower part of the perennial sleeves. In this case, it is necessary to cut out those of them that are located below the first wire, which is located at a height of 0.5 m from the ground surface. Next, young stems that have grown on the sleeve above the second wire, located at a height of 0.8 m from the surface of the site, are trimmed. All lateral stepsons must be cut off from them, and the tops must be minted, while taking sections whose length is 10 percent of the length of the entire stem.
2. When the leaf fall ends, you will need to select 2 developed stems located at the height of the first 2 wires. The replacement knot will need to be formed from the lower stem, which grew from the outer part of the sleeve. To do this, this shoot must be cut to a height of 3 or 4 eyes. Then a fruit shoot is formed; for this, the second stem, which is slightly higher than the first on the opposite side of the sleeve, must be cut to a height of 7 to 12 eyes.

As a result, the bush will contain only perennial trunks that grow perpendicular to the soil, as well as sleeves with buds, which will produce young brushes and vines next year.

Grape propagation

It is quite possible to grow grapes from seeds, but seedlings obtained in this way retain only part of the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. In this regard, to propagate this plant, it is recommended to resort to vegetative methods: grafting, layering and cuttings. These methods will allow the plants to preserve all the varietal characteristics of the parent bush. An important component of the biological complex of such a plant is its ability to regenerate, which allows the plant to recover after freezing, severe injury, and is also necessary for the healing of wounds.

The easiest and fastest way to propagate grapes is by cuttings. In the fall, when pruning plants, lignified cuttings should be harvested. To do this, use a mature vine, which should be no thinner than a pencil. In this case, internodes should be evenly distributed along its entire length, and there should also be 2 or 3 eyes on it. It should be noted that longer pipes are stored much better. The lower cut should be made at an angle of 45 degrees, with a distance of 30–40 mm from the bud downwards. It is best to store such cuttings in a room with high humidity and an air temperature of 0–5 degrees. So, the best place to store them is a potato storage facility. Cut cuttings cannot be kept in the sun for a long time. Make a solution of iron sulfate (1%) and immerse the cuttings in it for 5–10 minutes. Wait until the surface of the cuttings is dry, and then wrap them in a paper sheet, put them in a plastic bag and store them.

In the last days of February or the first days of March, the deep dormancy of the cuttings ends and it is replaced by a state of forced dormancy. At this time, it is recommended to begin rooting the cuttings. Removed cuttings will need careful inspection. There should be no spots or mold on the brown bark. And the eye and cut of the cutting should be painted a rich green color. The chibuki selected for rooting should be immersed for several minutes in a light pink potassium manganese solution. Then they are placed in a glass jar, which should be filled clean water to a height of 50–60 mm, and it is mixed with one drop of honey. You need to put a plastic bag on the pipes. When the cuttings are saturated with liquid, a lower cut should be made on each of them, which should be located under the lower node.

For rooting, the cuttings are planted in plastic cups, which must be filled with a mixture consisting of humus, sand and peat (1:1:1). A depression of 50–60 mm should be made in the substrate, then a cushion should be made at its bottom by pouring a small amount of sand, then a cutting should be placed in it, and the resulting void should be filled with sand. The upper cut of the chubuk should be coated with garden varnish, the upper bud should be only slightly covered with sand, the lower cut should be 5–7 centimeters above the bottom of the glass. In order for the cuttings to produce roots as quickly as possible, their upper part should be at a temperature of 15 to 18 degrees, while the lower part should be warm (23 to 28 degrees). To do this, the cups with cuttings need to be placed on a tray; they will need bottom heating for 4 weeks. At this time, it will be necessary to water the cuttings, if necessary, using lukewarm water, the surface of the substrate is carefully loosened, excess stems are pinched, and all growing inflorescences must be removed. Then the plants will need hardening; for this, in the last days of April or the first days of May, they begin to be transferred daily to the terrace or balcony. Hardened cuttings can be planted in open soil.

To carry out the vaccination, you will need a scion - this is a cutting of a cultivated variety that has only 1 bud, as well as a rootstock - this cutting must be taken from a variety that is resistant to phylloxera, and it must reach 50 cm in length. The scion must be present thicker than a pencil. In this case, the rootstock must be thicker than the scion. Cuttings are harvested on autumn days during pruning, and all cuttings should have at least 3-4 eyes. They should be saved until spring; how to do this is described in detail above. In autumn, you should also start preparing the rootstock bush. To do this, you need to remove everything unnecessary from it, only the vine for grafting should remain, then the bushes need to be provided with good shelter for the winter.

The grafting itself should be carried out before the sap flow begins, and a cloudy, windless day is chosen because in order for the grafting site to grow together, high humidity will be needed. This procedure can also be carried out in the summer. The cuttings placed there in the fall should be removed from storage in June. Renew their lower sections, which are immersed in a container with a small amount of water (at the bottom). After the buds swell on them, the containers are moved to the refrigerator shelf, where the cuttings can harden. After a few days, remove the cuttings from the refrigerator and graft them onto the rootstock. During the procedure in the summer, rootstock bushes need to be pruned in the spring according to last year's vine; it is on this that the cutting will be grafted. During summer grafting, tissue fusion is more noticeable, because the rate of sap flow in the scion and rootstock is significantly different. Vaccination can be done when the air temperature outside is from 15 to 35 degrees.

New cells begin to appear between the two parts, causing them to grow together. Take the scion, turning it away from you with the site of future grafting, then trim it immediately above the upper bud. Then step back 40–50 mm from this bud, then make a 20–30 mm cut on the cutting on both sides away from you with a sharp wedge. Please note that if the wedge is concave, the rootstock and scion will not grow together. To prevent the chibouk from drying out, it should be wrapped in a damp cloth. Step back 40–50 mm on the rootstock from the last bud and make a cut. The cut should be along the larger cut oval of the vine. The cut should be the same depth as the cutting wedge. A scion wedge should be placed in the cut of the rootstock so that their buds are directed in different directions. The grafting site must be wrapped with budding film, tape or tape. After sap flow begins, this area should be wrapped in a sheet of newspaper or other material that does not transmit light.

If the grafting is carried out in the summer, then after installing the scion wedge into the rootstock, the fusion site should be wrapped with a moistened cloth. Place a plastic bag on top of the plant and secure it below the grafting site. Then it should be wrapped in a thick paper sheet, which will protect the plant from direct rays of the sun. In the event that condensation appears on inner surface the package stops, it should be removed. The fabric must be moistened with water again, then the bag is returned to its original place, fixing it below the grafting site. After the graft bud opens, the paper should be removed. Then the bag is cut over the graft. The same package must be fixed on the cutting above the grafting site. After powerful stems have formed on the scion, you need to remove the bag and fabric from the plant. During the first 12 months, be extremely careful with the grafted plant, as it can be broken very easily.

Secrets of successful vaccination:

1. For the rootstock, you must choose a frost-resistant hybrid that is resistant to oidium, mildew and phylloxera.
2. Scion and rootstock varieties must have the same vigor.
3. The cutting tool should be very sharp and should be thoroughly disinfected.
4. The rootstock vine is pruned strictly perpendicular to the growth line.
5. How to propagate by layering

Reproduction by layering is carried out in spring and autumn. To begin with, a deep (about 0.5 m) groove should be made in the soil near the bush, into which black soil combined with humus should be introduced. After this, a one-year low-growing shoot is placed in it, and the groove must be filled with soil. In this case, the top with three leaf plates and a growing point should remain on the surface. The cuttings will need to be watered and for this they take 20 liters of water. During spring and summer, make sure that the soil above the cuttings is always slightly moist. In this case, a shoot with its own root system will grow from each node. This propagation method is often used to replace an old plant with a young one.

Grape diseases with photos

If you decide to grow grapes, you should be prepared to deal with many different diseases. And even if you strictly adhere to all the rules of agricultural technology, this will not guarantee that the vine will not get sick. Below we will describe the diseases that winegrowers encounter most often.

In a bush infected with this disease, inflorescences, berries, leaf plates and stems are damaged. On the affected grapes, brown spots are formed, with a border of a lighter shade; over time, they connect with each other. In these places, tissue death and loss occurs. Dark brown spots first form on the surface of the stems, after which pinkish-gray oval spots appear, which can spread to the entire internode. In these places, tissue cracking and ulcers appear. The inflorescences become dark and gradually dry out, and spots appear on the fruits. To cure the affected bush, it should be sprayed with a systemic and contact fungicidal agent, for example: Ridomil, Horus, Acrobat, Bordeaux mixture, Thanos or Antracol. If plants in your region very often become ill with this disease, then experts recommend choosing grape varieties for cultivation that are resistant to anthracnose.

This fungal disease is grape powdery mildew. A white-gray powdery coating appears on the surface of the affected bush. As the disease progresses, the inflorescences will begin to fall off, the leaf blades will become curly, and the fruits will burst or dry out. Most often, grapes get this disease in damp and warm weather. There is a high probability of infection in heavily leafy specimens that do not have very good ventilation. For preventative purposes, do not allow the bush to thicken; to do this, you need to tie up the branches, break out excess stems, and pull out weeds in a timely manner. You can spray the grapes with Horus, Topaz, Thanos, Strobi or Thiovit.

Grapes suffer from this fungal disease most often, and it is also very dangerous. The disease affects all green parts of the bush. You can tell that grapes are affected by mildew by oily spots on the front surface of the leaf blade. In rainy weather, a light-colored powdery coating appears on the underside of the leaf blade, and then necrosis forms in its place. So, at first the affected tissue becomes yellow, then it develops a brownish-red tint, and then dying areas form. The affected leaf plates die, resulting in the stems being exposed, and the inflorescences also become covered with a coating white. Flowers and buds dry out and die. If you decide to start growing grapes, then the variety you choose should be highly resistant to fungal diseases. For preventative purposes, mulch the surface of the tree trunk, feed the plant with potassium and phosphorus in a timely manner, and trim the shoots. Spray the bushes with fungicides. The first spraying is carried out when the length of the young shoots reaches 15–20 centimeters, the second - before the plant blooms, the third - when the fruits are similar in size to peas. The grapes should be sprayed with Kuproxat, Thanos, Ridomil, Strobi, Antrakol, Horus, copper oxychloride and Bordeaux mixture.

All green parts of the bush and annual wood, as well as grafting sites, are susceptible to this disease. A plaque appears on the surface of the opening eyes and young shoots. Fruits affected by such rot are covered with a dense gray coating, and the bunches become like porridge-like lumps. Dampness is necessary for the development of such a disease. With the onset of dry weather, the symptoms of the disease may almost completely disappear, but pathogenic microorganisms will remain on the bush. The affected bush should be sprayed with the same fungicide that is used for mildew or oidium disease of grapes.

This harmful disease can harm both the green and woody parts of the bush. Because of it, the bark loses its color. If the temperature rises above 10 degrees, then fungal pycnidia will appear on these discolored areas. If the fungus eats deep enough into the wood, it will lead to the appearance of rotten areas. First, the growth of the sleeve will slow down, and then it will die. On leaf blades, necrotic spots have a border that is denser and lighter than the leaf tissue. The affected foliage turns yellow, the diseased bush stops developing, it rots and dries out. Since the mycelium of the fungus is able to penetrate into the deep layers of wood, spraying the bush with a fungicidal agent will be ineffective. In this regard, it is necessary to fight the spores and bodies of the fungus. So, in the autumn, when the leaf fall ends and the plant is pruned, it should be sprayed with a product containing copper, for example: Bordeaux mixture, Horus, copper oxychloride or Kuproxat. Remove any sleeves that have begun to dry out. When 2 or 3 leaf blades appear in spring, the bush needs to be sprayed with a fungicide. The following preventive treatments for grapes against this disease will be carried out at the same time as spraying the plant against oidium and mildew. Remember that this kind of spotting cannot be gotten rid of so easily, and you will have to fight it for several years.

In addition to the diseases listed above, grapes can suffer from alternaria, bacterial canker, apoplexy, verticillium, armillaria, white, black, sour and root rot, diplodia, various types of necrosis, fusarium, penicillosis, bacteriosis, cercosporiosis, chlorosis, etc. It should be taken into account that some diseases are incurable. If the grapes are well-groomed and strong, then they will be extremely rarely affected by various diseases.

Grape pests with photos

Grape bushes can be damaged by a variety of pests, for example: grape flea beetle, grape leaf miner, grape cushion moth, grape mosquito, gray and black beet weevils and large alfalfa weevil, borer, fragrant wood borer, grape spider mite, grape felt and European red mites, grape itch, grape , biennial and cluster budworms, wasps, grape thrips, mealybugs and Comstock, cicadas and phylloxera, etc.

The greatest danger to the plant is phylloxera (grape aphid). They have two forms: root and leaf (gall). The spread of such a pest occurs with water used for irrigation, with planting material and with wind (over a distance of about 15 kilometers). Due to the root form of such a pest, the bushes die because punctures in the root system become infected and its gradual destruction occurs. You should know that fighting such a pest is not an easy task. Previously, the soil was treated with fumigants, but at the moment gardeners have abandoned this method of control. To get rid of the leaf form of this pest, the bush is sprayed with Zolon, Confidor, Actellik or another product with a similar effect. It is impossible to get rid of the root form, so for cultivation it is recommended to choose varieties that are resistant to it.

Leaf roller caterpillars can damage the buds, leaf blades and berries of the plant. In some cases, they destroy about 80 percent of the fruits, as they are very voracious and prolific. When the winter shelter is removed from the grapes, it should be sprayed with Nitrafen solution (0.25 kg per 1 bucket of water). After the beginning of the summer of butterflies, the plants need to be sprayed with any insecticidal agent (for example: Karbofos or Actellik), after half a month the bush is treated again. When the caterpillars themselves appear, the grapes must be treated with a solution of Benzophosphate (6%) or Karbofos (10%).

Sucking pests such as cicadas are polyphagous. They reproduce incredibly quickly. These pests carry viral and mycoplasma diseases, which are incurable. If such pests have been noticed on the plant, then it needs to be sprayed with Aktara solution.

Mites, sucking pests, prefer to live on the underside of the leaf blade. Having pierced the leaf, they suck out the juice and eat the tissue. Small spots appear in such places, and after some time they begin to dry out. During one season, up to 12 generations of ticks change. The affected plant must be treated with an acaricide, for example: Fufanon, Omite, Actellik, Neoron, etc. You need to carry out 3 sprayings with an interval of 1–1.5 weeks.

The beetle is a green-olive grape beetle, reaching 2 cm in length. The beetle causes deformation of the leaf plates, while its legless larva gnaws winding passages in the stems, where it overwinters. The leaf blades of the affected bush dry out, the stems wither, and the fruits become smaller. Affected leaf blades and stems must be cut out. The bush itself is sprayed with Actellik or Karbofos. With timely preventative spraying against pests, such an insect will not settle on the bush, since it selects weakened specimens.

Types and varieties of grapes with photos and names

According to the time of ripening, all varieties of such plants are divided into super-early, early, early-mid, medium, mid-late, late and very late. And according to their purpose, they are divided into technical, table and universal. Table varieties are of the highest quality, their fruits are very beautiful and tasty. They are usually used for fresh eating. The fruits of technical varieties are used to make wines and juices. Berries of universal varieties can be eaten fresh and used for processing.

Today, mainly only varieties are grown that are hybrids of 3 species: Labrusca (homeland of America), Amur (homeland of Far East) and cultural wine (growing in Europe and Asia). All varieties are conventionally divided into 3 groups:

1. Euro-Asian varieties. The berries are the largest and very tasty. The best varieties are Central Asian varieties, for example, Lady's Fingers and Khusayne. However, such varieties have a number of disadvantages: low resistance to frost, susceptibility to phylloxera and fungi, and a long growing season. European varieties have higher resistance to frost, but their fruits are not as tasty and attractive.
2. American varieties. They are fast growing, resistant to drought, frost and phylloxera. But the fruits are quite small, and they have the “fox flavor” of Isabella. However, Labruschi hybrids Isabella and Lydia are quite popular, as they are unpretentious and winter-hardy.



Also popular are varieties such as: Agdai, Italy, Kokur white, Queen of the Vineyards, Beauty Tsegleda, Merlot, Moldova, Muscat white, Alexandrian, amber, Hamburg, and Yerevan, Odessa souvenir, Pinot noir, Riesling, Rkatsiteli, Green Sauvignon, Feteasca white, Chardonnay, etc.