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How to make a drywall arch - 5 steps for making an arched doorway
By doing overhaul in his apartment, for sure, every homeowner has a desire to radically change the interior design that has been boring for many years for the better. From my experience, I can say that it is unlikely that it will be possible to radically change the environment with just the banal wallpapering or painting the ceiling and walls.
As an original addition to the visual cosmetic repairs, I propose to completely remove the interior doors, and instead leave an open arched doorway of an asymmetric or classic semicircular shape. To help the reader cope with this simple work, later in this article I will talk about how to make a drywall arch with your own hands in a short time without significant financial costs.
Choosing the shape of an arched opening
Integration of semicircular or curly arch into the existing doorway does not imply a violation of the integrity of the interior walls, and does not require redevelopment of the apartment, therefore it does not have any effect on the bearing capacity of building structures, and the whole house as a whole.
At the same time, such a solution will allow you to get rid of the annoying rectangular shapes of doors, help visually increase the useful area of housing, and get an updated visual perception of the surrounding space.
Starting with the next section, it will describe step-by-step instruction on the manufacture of arches, but first I want to offer a choice of several options for the size and shape of the arch for the interior doorway:
- The classic symmetrical arch with a semicircular vault is considered a universal option.... It is quite simple to manufacture, and is well suited for the opening of any narrow single-leaf interior door;
- The Art Nouveau arched opening has a similar shape, but it has a large arc radius, since it is based not on a circle, but on an oval or ellipse. Due to the low height of the vault, this shape is well suited for wide openings from double doors in the living room, hall or hallway;
- Gothic interior drywall arches have the same design, however, differ from the two previous variants by the presence of a sharp apex in an oval or semicircular vault;
- An irregular asymmetric semi-arch can have almost any configuration of the arch, and is most often used for narrow doorways in the kitchen or in the hallway. This option is considered the most economical, since the least amount of materials is required for its manufacture;
- The openwork arch is a complex structure, in which, in addition to the entrance itself, there are decorative through or blind openings of small sizes, intended exclusively for decoration. This option is usually installed in a doorway in place of two-leaf or four-leaf entrance doors to the living room or bedroom;
- The multi-level arch most often has an original author's design, which is developed strictly individually, in accordance with the conceptual style of apartment decoration and the personal preferences of home owners. Most often, this option is distinguished by smooth curved lines and the presence of curly decorative elements that can be located at different levels relative to each other.
When choosing the shape of the arch for self-made, you should be guided not only by your imagination or beautiful pictures from interior design magazines. To get a high-quality end result, for the first time, I advise you to choose an option that suits your practical skills and financial capabilities.
Stage 1. Preparation and marking of the door opening
First of all, you need to draw a preliminary sketch of the doorway on paper or in a computer, on which the shape of the future arch should be clearly drawn. To facilitate further work, in addition to a general sketch, I recommend depicting a projection of the finished arch in three planes, indicating all the required dimensions.
You need to take measurements from a clean doorway in the light, so first you have to do some simple preparatory work:
- Before you make an arch from plasterboard yourself, you need to completely dismantle the old interior door, along with decorative platbands and a wooden box;
- If, after removing the platbands and the box, significant potholes, large chips, cracks or other construction defects are found on the end surface of the wall or door slopes, they must be leveled and putty with cement-sand mortar or putty mortar for interior work;
- If the doorway after the construction of the house has an irregular shape, curved slopes or indirect obstructed internal corners, they also need to be leveled with a cement-sand mortar;
- After the putty solution has dried, you need to measure the width of the doorway in two places: one measurement is made at the very top, and the second is 500-600 mm lower;
- At the beginning of the rounding of the vault of the future arch, put a mark at the end of the wall, and measure the distance from it to the horizontal upper plane of the opening. This size will be considered her height;
- Before making an oblique arch, marks on the right and left sides must be placed at different distances from the top of the opening, because in this case, the height of the arch on the right and left sides will be unequal;
- On the vertical side ends of the wall, and on the horizontal upper slope, at a distance of 13-14 mm from the edge of the wall, draw two parallel lines on each side. They will serve as marks for installing the metal frame.
All gypsum plasterboards are manufactured according to a single standard, according to which they can be 9 mm or 13 mm thick. For cladding the front planes of the door arch, I advise you to use sheets with a thickness of 13 mm, therefore, all markings for installing the supporting frame must be performed based on this value.
Stage 2. Installation of the supporting frame
The supporting frame for interior plasterboard construction is usually made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden bars with a cross section of at least 50x50 mm. Considering that our drywall arch will have curves and radial shapes, a metal profile is best suited for its manufacture, although wooden bars can be dispensed with in straight sections.
For single leaf doorways with thin interior walls I recommend using a "CD" -type galvanized frame profile, which has a height of 27 mm, a width of 62 mm, and a whip length of 3000 mm. If the arch will have a width of more than 1500 mm, then for its manufacture it is better to use a more powerful rack-mount profile of the "CW" type, the dimensions of which are 40x75x3000 mm.
- Regardless of the option chosen, the manufacture of arches must begin with the installation of the upper horizontal guides. To do this, two profiles must be cut from the whole whip, the length of which must be equal to the width of the doorway;
- Next, you need to cut off four more profiles, the length of which should be equal to the height of the arch. They must be fixed vertically, one on each side of the end of the doorway;
- Each vertical profile should be fastened with inside from the drawn vertical marking line. After installation, you need to check that the distance between the front plane of each profile and the frontal plane of the wall is exactly 13-14 mm;
- For fastening straight profiles to concrete or brick wall it is best to use plastic dowels 6x30 mm in size and galvanized self-tapping screws with a wide head measuring 4.2x25 mm;
- To make a curly arch arch, I advise you to prepare a template in advance... It can be cut from a large sheet of rigid packaging corrugated board, an unnecessary piece of fiberboard, or thin;
- The width of the template should be equal to the width of the doorway, and the upper part should exactly repeat the semicircle, semi-oval, or other figured configuration of the arch of the future arch;
- To make the frame of the radius part of the arch with your own hands, you need to take two identical pieces of plasterboard profile. They must be cut off with a small margin in length.(300-500 mm more than the length of the arc on the template), and after bending and final adjustment, precisely cut to the desired size;
- The straightness and rigidity of the plasterboard metal profile is ensured by two longitudinal side ribs. In order to bend the lower profiles along the required radius, and give them the correct arcuate shape, many radial cuts must be made on the side edges to the very base;
- Profiles with cut side ribs must be bent along a given radius, and then cut to length exactly to the size of the doorway. It is convenient to do this by attaching them to the template, while you need to make sure that both profiles have strictly the same bending configuration;
- After that, each curved profile must be fixed at two points to the lowest part of the vertical guides that are installed at the end of the doorway;
- In order to unite the entire frame into a single one-piece structure, the radius profiles can be connected together with short transverse bridges. In addition, it is necessary to install several vertical jumpers between the upper horizontal and the lower arcuate profile;
- Three types of fasteners are used to connect the profiles to each other.: short self-tapping screws for metal with a hat in a secret, steel blind rivets, or a special punching tool that punches a hole in the walls of two profiles, and then wraps the punched metal in different directions.
In building materials stores, you can find a ready-made metal profile for curved plasterboard structures. It is a conventional frame profile with cuts and notches on the side stiffeners, so that it can easily bend along the desired radius or take any curvilinear shape.
Its price is not much higher than the cost of a straight frame profile, so if there is such an opportunity, it is better to buy such a profile for making a radius vault.
Stage 3. Cutting and preparation of drywall
The appearance and aesthetic properties of the finished arch will largely depend on how well the radius parts of the plasterboard front panels are cut. To cut a symmetrical semicircle, semi-oval, or asymmetrical arc, I recommend using one of three methods. Regardless of the method chosen, the first step is to draw a rectangle on a drywall sheet.
Its width should correspond to the width of the opening, and its height should be equal to the height of the future arch.
- If we make a symmetrical semicircular drywall arch, then to draw the correct semicircle, you will need to make the simplest impromptu compass.
- To do this, you need to find the center of the lower side of the drawn rectangle, and screw a small self-tapping screw at this point;
- Tie a thin nylon thread to the self-tapping screw, and tie a pencil or thin marker to the other end of the thread;
- The distance from the center of the self-tapping screw to the marker pen should be equal to half the width of the arch minus 14 mm;
- After making sure that the length of the thread strictly corresponds to the calculated size, you need to attach a marker to the bottom line on one side of the rectangle;
- After that, pull the thread slightly, and draw the marker in an arc to the bottom line on the other side of the rectangle. As a result, a symmetrical semicircular arch will be drawn on the plasterboard sheet.
- In order to draw a symmetrical semi-oval or part of an ellipse with a regular shape, it is most convenient to use a flexible elastic guide. This can be a long metal ruler, a thin wooden strip, a narrow plastic profile, or a water pipe:
- On both sides of the drawn rectangle, on the underside, you need to put marks at a distance of 14 mm from each edge;
- Attach one end of the guide to one mark, bend it along the desired radius, and attach the other end to the other mark;
- In this position, it must be fixed motionlessly, so I recommend doing this work with one, or even better with two assistants;
- While two people are holding the guideline on both sides, the third person should make sure that it describes a symmetrical regular arc and draw a line along it from one edge to the other of the bottom side of the rectangle.
- For those who are interested in how to make a semi-arch of an arbitrary irregular shape in order to draw an asymmetrical curved line on a sheet of gypsum, I advise you to use the existing template.
- As in the previous case, on the underside of the drawn rectangle, one mark must be placed at a distance of 14 mm from its edges;
- Attach the arcuate side of the template to the set marks, and draw a curved line along it with a thin marker.
Plasterboard can be cut with a sharp construction knife, but it is best to use an electric jigsaw and a wood saw with a small set of teeth for a neat cut along the radius line. In order to prevent the edge of the sheet from breaking off, before cutting out any part from drywall, I advise you to stick a wide strip of paper masking tape on the cutting line.
Stage 4. Assembling the arch structure
After both bezels are cut out, you need to align them with each other and check how they match. Ideally, they should be exactly the same., therefore, if there is any discrepancy between them, that is, it is better to immediately eliminate it with a knife, a coarse file or a coarse-grained emery cloth. After aligning the front panels, you can start sewing the supporting frame with drywall.
- Each front panel must be installed on the same level in its place in the doorway, and fixed along the entire perimeter and in the middle to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, with a step of 100-120 mm;
- When installing, make sure that the face plane of each panel is flush with the plane of the wall. If the front panel is slightly recessed, then there is nothing to worry about, then it can be leveled with a putty. The main thing is that it does not protrude forward anywhere, beyond the dimensions of the doorway;
- Further instructions will help to make a curly arch from a strip of drywall, in one of two ways. And in fact, and in another case, first you need to cut off a strip of drywall. Its length must necessarily be 100-200 mm longer than the maximum length of the arch of the arch., and the width should be equal to the distance between the bezels;
- In the first case, the strip must be laid on a flat surface, with the bottom side up., and rolling with a definite force with a needle roller, so that the needles pierce the top layer of dense cardboard. If there is no such roller, you can evenly apply a lot of small, barely noticeable notches on the lower plane with a sharp knife;
- The perforated side of the drywall should be moistened abundantly with water using a foam sponge, and lean against a vertical wall at an angle of 50-45 °. Under the action of water, the gypsum filler will begin to soften, and the strip will gradually take on a curved shape;
- After some time (20-25 minutes), when the water is absorbed, the strip must be carefully placed on the floor, moisten the top layer with water again, then lean against the wall again and leave alone for another 40-60 minutes;
- After the strip becomes sufficiently plastic, it must be carefully attached with self-tapping screws to the sweep on both sides to the arched metal profiles;
- You need to start fastening from the middle, and gradually move to the edges, mirroring the screws, then from the right, then from the left side of the arch. In order to prevent the formation of creases and edges, the step between the screws should be no more than 80 mm;
- The second method makes it easy to bend drywall to dry, but in this case, small chopped edges are formed on the surface of the strip, which will need to be additionally putty in the future;
- Before installation, the strip must be laid on a flat hard surface with the front side down, and on the back side with a sharp knife make deep transverse cuts approximately to the middle of the thickness of the drywall;
- In order to achieve uniform bending, the cuts should be located strictly perpendicular to the center line of the strip, strictly parallel to each other, and at the same distance between themselves;
- The finished strip must be attached to the arch with notches upward, and, as in the first case, starting from the middle, fix it to the arcuate profiles using self-tapping screws in the secret.
Despite the fact that the wet method of bending drywall, at first glance, may seem more complicated, I recommend using it, because in this case, a uniform arc without creases is immediately obtained, of the correct rounded shape, which requires almost no further refinement.
Stage 5. Preparation for finishing
Immediately after door arch it will be made of drywall with your own hands, it may seem ridiculous and scary, but you should not be upset, because after the completion of the preparatory and finishing work, it will acquire a completely different appearance.
- First of all, it is necessary to cut off with a sharp knife all the protruding corners and irregularities at the ends of the drywall parts, and then process them with a coarse-grained emery cloth fixed in a special holder or on a flat wooden block;
- In those places where plasterboard parts fit together at right angles, you need to fix perforated metal or plastic corners on small self-tapping screws. They cover all irregularities and crevices, allow you to get an ideal right angle, and also provide additional strength of the corner joint;
- At the joints of two adjacent parts that are in the same plane, as well as at the junctions of the front panels with the plane of the main wall, you need to glue a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which is also called serpyanka;
- All screws, joints, corners and slots must be putty in such a way that no reinforcing mesh, no corners, no joints, or fastening screws can be seen on the surface. I recommend using an acrylic drywall finishing putty, which is sold ready-to-use;
- After the first layer of putty has hardened, the arch must be sanded with a medium-grained emery cloth. At this stage, some irregularities or other defects will certainly appear, therefore, after preliminary grinding, it will have to be putty again;
- After the final drying of the second layer of putty, the surface must be sanded with a finer sandpaper, and after making sure that there are no defects, cover with one layer of a penetrating drywall primer.
If you bend drywall drywall, then in order to eliminate broken edges, the upper curved arch of the arch will need to be covered with a continuous layer of starting drywall putty. After drying, it will need to be sanded and covered with another layer of finishing putty on top.
Conclusion
In this article, I fully talked about how to make a drywall arch in a doorway with my own hands, and deliberately did not mention a word about finishing. The thing is that the appearance and design of the arch should generally correspond to the concept of interior design. Therefore, the materials and method decorative finishing, the landlord must choose for himself, based on his own tastes and personal preferences. To consolidate the knowledge gained, I propose to watch the video in this article, and if the readers still have questions, I will be happy to answer them in the comment form.
arched opening in the wall vault
Alternative descriptionsMilitary. open from the rear a field fortification made of ramparts (parapets) with a moat in front
Hole in the wall under the vault stripping
A device on metal-cutting machines that serves as an additional support for machined shafts and other long parts
An arched opening in a vault or wall, bounded from below by a horizontal line
Shelter, fortification (obsolete)
Field facility (obsolete)
The field of a wall, bounded by an arch and its supports, often decorated with paintings or sculptures
Fixture on the machine
The name of this archway in translation from French means "hole"
Support for a part in machine tools
Field facility (obsolete)
Semicircle above the window
Arched opening in the vault
Arched insert above the window
Type of field fortification
Arched insert above a window or door
Ancient field fortification
Arched insert above the door
A kind of field fortification
Additional support for a part in machine tools
Field fortification open from the rear made of ramparts (parapets) with a moat in front
Arched opening, bounded at the bottom by a horizontal line
A device on metal-cutting machines that serves as an additional support when machining long parts (shafts, pipes, etc.)
Arched opening in a vault or wall, limited from below by a horizontal line
Arched doorway in the vault, scene
M. military. arrow; slight reinforcement against incoming corners or facets. Lunette, referring to it
The name of this archway is translated from French as "hole"
Arched opening in the vault
V last years the design of the entrance without the use of a door is gradually returning to fashion. In this case, it is replaced with an arched opening, which gives the interior a unique style. With this architectural element, you can visually enlarge a small room or divide the surrounding space into functional areas... After reading this article, you will learn how to make an arched opening in a wall vault.
Possible configurations
Using this design technique allows you to give any room a unique individual style. Today there are several different arch configurations. The most popular of them are:
- The classic version, suitable for rooms with a ceiling height of at least three meters. The bend radius of the correct arch should be greater than 45 centimeters.
- An arched doorway in the Art Nouveau style, ideal for the decoration of typical apartments. In this case, not only rounded, but also sharp corners because the width is much less than the radius of the arch.
- The design is perfect for wide openings. Horizontal inserts are often placed between rounded corners.
The configuration of the structure largely depends on the individual characteristics of the room and the personal preferences of the owners. An arched opening (a photo of which will be presented below) can be polygonal, wavy, with all kinds of shelves, stained glass windows or backlighting.
Materials used to create such structures
V modern interiors you can often see an arched opening made of plasterboard sheets, plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, wood, metal, brick, plastic or monolithic concrete. When using heavy materials like natural stone their weight must be taken into account. For such structures, a special foundation and reinforcing elements will be required to provide a better bond with the walls.
Advantages and disadvantages of arched openings
Those who plan to create such a structure need to think carefully about everything, weigh all the pros and cons of such structures.
The main advantages that the arched opening is endowed with include:
- Style and aesthetics, because the entrance, designed in this way, looks much more interesting than a standard door.
- An opportunity to expand the view, which is especially important for young families with small children. Thereby design solution parents, without leaving the room, will be able to see what their child is doing.
- Zoning of large areas. With the help of an arch, you can easily separate the kitchen from the dining room, without losing the holistic perception of the space.
- Visual enlargement of the room. The blurring of clear boundaries between two rooms creates the effect of combining them into one whole.
One of the most significant disadvantages of such structures is the complete absence of sound insulation. Everything that happens in your room will certainly be heard in the next room. In addition, the arched doorway does not prevent odors from spreading throughout the apartment. This is especially true when it is built between the kitchen and the living room.
Design features
Ideally, an arch that emphasizes should be in harmony with the overall style of the room. Therefore, even before the start of construction work, you need to decide on the shape and size of the future structure. Round, rectangular, ellipsoidal and asymmetric arches are especially popular today. A little less often you can see structures made in the form of a rounded portal. As for the dimensions, the dimensions of the arched openings directly depend on the area of the room.
How to make plasterboard
To create such a structure, you should stock up on all the necessary tools in advance, including plumb lines, dowels, drills, self-tapping screws, a drill, a ruler, drawing templates, scissors or a drywall hacksaw and a puncher or jackhammer.
At the initial stage, it is necessary to determine the location of the future structure. By sketching a new opening, you can get rid of the unnecessary part of the wall. This is done using a punch or a punch.
Next, we apply a corner on both sides of the inner edge of the top of the opening. Then, using a drill, holes are drilled in it in the wall, into which dowels are subsequently inserted. After fixing the plumb lines necessary for the installation of drywall, you can proceed to the installation of the arch pre-cut from the sheet. For high-quality framing of the inner edge, it is advisable to moisten the plasterboard sheet with water. These manipulations will greatly facilitate the process of shaping. After the installation is completed, the resulting structure is carefully putty and, if desired, pasted over with fiberglass mesh.
Arched opening finishing
The easiest and most affordable way to decorate an arch is wallpapering. In this case, problems may arise when decorating a wall in the vault area. For everything to work out in the best possible way, you need to glue the sheet so that it protrudes slightly into the opening. After that, you should carefully cut off the protruding part, leaving a couple of centimeters. The resulting allowance is cut into centimeter strips and glued to the inside of the arched vault. The structure covered with wallpaper can be additionally decorated with a paper, plastic or veneer frieze.
Another popular finishing method is processing decorative plaster... In this case, you will need to first putty the surface of the structure in order to hide the caps of the screws, seams and other distinguishable irregularities. After that, the arch must be primed and wait at least 12 hours. This is how long it will take for the primer to completely dry. Then you can start applying the plaster. So that it does not protrude into the opening, it is first recommended to process the inner plane of the arch and only then proceed to decorate the walls around the arch. A day later, the dried plaster is painted with special paints.
Arches in openings have been used for a long time, since it was believed that this architectural opening is very aesthetic. Today, the arrangement of arches in doorways has become popular due to the fact that they are easy to mount from drywall. With the advent of drywall arches, it became possible to separate rooms without much effort. Such arched vaults will help to give individuality to each room.
Thanks to the arch, you can visually expand the small space of the corridor, kitchen or room.
As for the forms of the arch, there are a lot of them. By making drywall arches, you can recreate almost any historical copy. The main convenience is that drywall is a very flexible material. We make an arch in the doorway according to the following scheme:
- All necessary measurements are carried out and the required amount of material is calculated.
- Next, all are prepared necessary tools that will be required for work.
- The front parts of the arches are cut out, the frame is made of a profile or wood.
- Next, the front elements of the arches are attached.
- The lower parts of the arches are cut out and also attached.
- Arched corners are attached and all surfaces are putty.
What materials will you need?
For work, you will need the following materials and tools:
- drywall 9.5 mm thick;
- guide profiles - 27x28 mm;
- rack profiles - 60x27 mm;
- self-tapping screws for fixing gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) - 3.5x25 mm;
- dowels with screws - 6x60 mm for fastening the profile frame (needed if the walls are made of brick or concrete).
- self-tapping screws with a press washer - 4.2x12 mm;
- wood screws (if the walls are made of wood);
- gypsum plasterboard putty;
- needle roller for bending drywall sheets;
- perforated arched corner;
- putty knife;
- screwdriver;
- protective gloves;
- roulette;
- square;
- pencil;
- scissors for metal;
- stationery knife for cutting plasterboard.
What kind of arch can there be?
The opening of a door or window can be decorated by creating an arch. Exists a large number of arches that can be performed in your home. When choosing, you need to be guided not only by taste preferences, but also by the following parameters: first of all, the height of the ceiling and the width of the doorway. So, some designs look good with high ceilings, while others, on the contrary, with low ceilings. Kinds:
- Portal - this arch is made as a standard in the form of the letter P. The device of the arch can be different: polygonal or wavy. It all depends on the materials available and the imagination of the owner of the house.
- Classic arch - in another way called "classic". This type of arch is only suitable for ceilings that are more than 3 m high. On average, with an opening width of 90 cm, about 45 cm of height will be occupied by the bend of the arch, so a height of 2.5 m may not be enough.
- Romance. This option is perfect for wide openings, relatively small in height. A straight insert is made between the rounded corners, either at an angle or horizontally.
- Modern. This type is great for making a doorway inside typical apartment... In this case, the corners can be both rounded and sharp.
- Semi-arch. This option is able to perfectly perform the zoning of the room.
- A straight arch is a great option for high-tech and modern rooms.
In addition, the arches are also distinguished by their design:
- Radial (asymmetric) - the simplest and at the same time the cheapest technology that will suit absolutely any interior.
- Multilevel. This design is used mainly in cases where the interior is made in one specific style.
- Openwork is suitable for all cases, except for those when the walls are made in a non-standard form.
- Domed and symmetrical ones are suitable for classic arches, the opening of which is at least 1 m.
Doorway: making the necessary measurements
Ways to bend drywall sheet: dry and wet.
Before making an arch in the doorway, you need to make all the necessary measurements. Naturally, you need to start by measuring the opening. You need to find out the height and width of the opening.
As for the width of the arch, it should be equal to the distance between the opposite walls of the doorway. It is necessary to measure this distance and halve it. This size is needed in order to make an exact semicircle.
In addition, you need to determine in advance the shape of the future arch. If you choose a classic arch, then you need to align all the walls. They should be completely vertical so that the arch does not look awkward. It is necessary to level the walls with the help of beacons with putty or plaster.
Preparing the gypsum board for the arch
- First of all, you need a regular pencil and a tight rope. The pencil is tied to a string and makes a great large-scale compass.
- Further, the middle is marked on the GCR - that is, the radius of the future arch. To do this, you need to remember the size of the opening width.
- Where the top of the arch will be, a mark of 60-65 cm is marked. This figure was taken at the rate of 50 cm radius and 10-15 cm - the height above the arch.
- Next, a plasterboard sheet is cut exactly along the width of the doorway.
- Then a point is marked, which will be the center of the radius.
- A rope with a pencil is taken, its length should be equal to the radius. A semicircle is drawn along a point marked in advance. When making the correct measurements, you should get a perfect circle, which will be the arch of the opening.
- After that, a clerical knife or jigsaw is taken, with which you need to cut a semicircle along the drawn line. In our case, its width should be 100 cm, and its height should be 60-65 cm.
DIY arch frame installation
Both aesthetics and structural strength will depend on a well-made frame.
The stages of manufacturing and installing the frame are as follows:
- First of all, at the top of the opening, a guide from a metal profile is attached using dowels. Further, the guides are attached to the wall in 2 places.
- After that, an arched profile is made, also made of metal. To make it, using metal scissors, identical cuts are made in the profile, each of which must then be bent to form a right angle. As a template, you can use already made parts from gypsum plasterboard. The profile is fastened with dowels, and the drywall is already with self-tapping screws. For the arch, you will need 2 arcuate profiles.
- To strengthen the frame between 2 arcs, you need to attach profile segments.
- Further, the arcuate parts are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.
Plasterboard bending
After the frame is completely ready, you can proceed to the final stage- bending of the mounting element. To do this, a rectangular GKL sheet of the required length and width is cut off. In order to accurately calculate the length, you need to remember about 10-15 cm, which were added earlier. Thus, the length should be 15 cm longer on average.
To prevent the gypsum board from cracking during bending, you just need to moisten it with water and make punctures, and then leave it for several hours. Over time, you can begin to attach the sheet to the frame: first with adhesive tape, then with self-tapping screws.
It should be remembered that the screws must be tightened smoothly, otherwise the sheet can be damaged.
It remains only to wait until the sheet is completely dry - on average 12 hours and the arch is ready.
Facing works
- First you need to sandpaper the entire surface of the arch and wipe all the existing irregularities. You should have rounded corners everywhere.
- All seams installation works need to be sealed with a filler for joining seams. However, before that, you need to install perforated profiles for the corners of the arches.
- Further, all the rest of the putty after drying is smoothed with sandpaper.
- A layer of primer is applied. It is necessary to wait until it is completely dry.
- At the end, the arch is putty with a special finishing putty, and sanded again.
- Once again, go over the surface with fine sandpaper. On this, the arch is ready
That's all the arch is ready. It remains only to create a decorative cladding. For this, you can use various materials: wallpaper, decorative rock, water-based paint, etc.