An element of a door frame, a functional design that is designed to hide the joint between different floor coverings and differences between unequal floor levels, as well as to improve the interior, is called an interior threshold. This part is usually installed near the entrance door to an apartment or house, between rooms, at the entrance to the kitchen, bathroom, or in the hallway. Some owners place anti-slip profiles on the steps of the stairs. The article will discuss how to install interior thresholds.
Interior thresholds are an interior detail that is most susceptible to loads and mechanical stress, since it protrudes several millimeters above the surface of the rest of the floor covering. Therefore, the choice must be taken responsibly.
Advantages and disadvantages of interior thresholds
Advantages of interior thresholds.
- A massive wooden door absorbs noise, and the threshold also copes with this task. To achieve greater effect, you need to choose a threshold box that is equipped with a rubber seal.
- Protection from dust and drafts entering the room.
- In case of a small flood in the bathroom, the threshold creates an obstacle to the overflow of water; in case of significant flooding, this design will be useless. To prevent the threshold from becoming unusable after a flood, a stone structure should be used. To prevent high humidity in the bathroom, you can opt for a box without a seal.
- When preparing food, the threshold will protect other rooms from the penetration of burning and smoke from the kitchen.
Disadvantages of thresholds.
- Classic thresholds protrude above the floor surface and often cause falls, especially for children who forget to step over them.
- Some floor coverings, such as laminate or linoleum, look more harmonious without any thresholds in the opening.
Materials for the manufacture of interior thresholds
Before you begin to install the structure, you need to decide on the choice of material from which the thresholds will be made. The choice is huge.
- Metal interior thresholds. Metal is the most commonly used material for the manufacture of interior thresholds. They can be brass, aluminum, steel, bronze and even stainless steel. Each material has its own distinctive features, but all of them can be used outdoors as they are weather resistant. These metals are difficult to oxidize, which means they will not rust or collapse underfoot.
- Steel. Thresholds made of this material are quite durable and resistant to any type of mechanical impact; painted or anodized elements are available for sale.
- Stainless steel. The products are rarely used for installation on the floor surface; they are more often used for finishing walls and furniture, since they have a silver color and a glossy or matte finish.
- Bronze. This is an expensive material, the thresholds from which are made only on individual orders; they are not commercially available. Thresholds are made from aluminum in a “bronze” look; they are available to everyone.
- Brass. Durable, golden-colored thresholds are made from this expensive and quite valuable material.
- Aluminum. Reliable and lightweight products are made from an alloy of various metals, in which aluminum predominates. They have an unlimited service life and an affordable price.
To add color to metal thresholds, they are usually painted, laminated, or anodized. A profile made of steel and aluminum is coated with plain paint or imitated wood. In addition, the aluminum profile is laminated, that is, covered with a durable film that copies appearance stone, wood and others natural materials. Anodized thresholds come in three colors: silver, gold and bronze. The painting procedure is carried out by passing a current through water in which particles of the dye are diluted and the product itself is located.
- Wooden interior thresholds. This is the most common option. It is recommended to use oak. Since it is the most durable and wear-resistant type of wood. Oak thresholds are suitable for any floor covering, but are quite expensive, require systematic maintenance in the form of painting or varnishing, and are short-lived.
- Plastic interior thresholds. Plastic products are an average option in terms of durability between metal and wood; they are attractive due to their neat appearance, variety of colors and affordable cost. But over time, they require replacement, as they can burst as a result of intense mechanical stress.
- Interior thresholds made of laminate. Most often they are used in combination with a similar material covering the floor surface. It is capable of gradually deforming in conditions of high humidity.
- Concrete interior thresholds. This non-shrinking material is used to make a threshold when exiting to a balcony or from a house. Various substances are added to concrete to make it flexible and durable.
Types of interior thresholds
- Flat or overhead thresholds are a metal or plastic plate that can have a variety of shapes; it closes the gap between different types flooring (tiles and linoleum, carpet and laminate). It is attached from above, which is why the plate is called an overhead plate.
- Multi-level or transition thresholds are designed to hide the transition from one floor covering to another if they are located at different heights (from 3 to 15 mm). Most often, such elements have a rounded shape or a turned corner configuration.
- Corner thresholds, among which aluminum is the most reliable, are used to trim the upper corners of the steps. Thresholds come in various lengths, widths and colors, which makes it easy to choose the right option. Most often, they have a perforated surface, which provides better traction with shoes and does not allow a person to slip on the steps.
- Flexible thresholds are made from hypoallergenic and safe plastic, which, under the influence high temperatures it becomes elastic, and after cooling it hardens, acquiring the desired configuration. This material is quite strong and resistant to mechanical stress, and has moisture-proof qualities. Such thresholds cover joints and mask differences in floor coverings. They are used to go around columns, pedestals and podiums, to decorate niches in walls and arches, and to protect the most vulnerable places from moisture.
- T-shaped universal thresholds have different widths, colors, good flexibility, which will allow you to create radial transitions between coverings, and hidden installation of profiles; they are completely smooth and practically imperceptible underfoot.
- Thresholds with open fastening are most often made of metal, less often of plastic. They require the presence of holes for attaching the profile to the floor surface, which are drilled every 15 cm and have a cone shape so that the heads of the screws do not protrude above the surface of the threshold and do not cause discomfort to the feet. Even a novice repairman can handle the installation.
- Thresholds with hidden fastening are plates or corners without holes for screws; their fastening system is hidden under the threshold itself; it independently adjusts to the possible difference, if it does not exceed 15 mm.
- The latest idea is the anti-threshold, guillotine or “smart threshold”, which is a U-shaped aluminum profile with a spring device and a rubber seal inserted into the end of the door block from below so that it is not visible when open door. At this time, it is recessed inside the canvas. When the door is opened, the guillotine automatically silently moves down and closes the gap between the floor and the door. This design provides noise and heat insulation, absence of drafts, and self-leveling on uneven floors. In addition, the threshold does not interfere with free movement around the room, its design is safe and easy to use and install, affordable, and can be used in combination with any doors. The guillotine is not suitable for hollow doors, since it must be cut to a depth of at least 20 mm, and the additional carpentry work for installation is perhaps the only drawback.
Removing floor thresholds
- Before laying a new covering on the floor surface and hiding its joints under the threshold, you should dismantle the old thresholds.
- For this procedure you will need to use a crowbar, a hammer and a hacksaw. First of all, you need to saw off the edges of the threshold and knock out its middle. The work must be done very carefully, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the door leaf - it may become askew.
- The remains of the old threshold are loosened by placing a crowbar under them. If necessary, the crowbar is driven deeper with a hammer. Loose pieces of the threshold can be easily removed from under the door frame.
Do-it-yourself installation of interior thresholds
There are several ways to attach interior thresholds. But they all start with an accurate measurement of the length of the joint that needs to be covered. After that, the resulting value is marked on the threshold and the excess is cut off with a grinder or hacksaw.
- Installation of thresholds with open fastening quite simple to implement. For this purpose, profiles with existing holes drilled at the same distance are used. You need to attach the threshold to the floor and mark the places where the screws will be inserted. Drill holes of the required size according to the markings, attach the threshold and secure it with screws. It is important not to make too large holes, otherwise the screws will eventually become loose and fall out. If the gap between the coatings is wide, it is closed with a suitable threshold. Self-tapping screws with decorative caps will not stand out too much against the background of the profile.
In the event that the junction of two floor coverings is at different levels(from 3 mm to 2 cm), you can use a wide threshold, which is attached at an angle, or a transitional (multi-level) profile.
- For aesthetic reasons, consumers much more often choose interior thresholds with hidden fastening system. These can be strips with internal floating holes for screw heads or a special profile that consists of two parts: a T-shaped threshold and a rail.
- To attach the plank, you must first drill holes in the floor according to the markings and insert plastic dowels into them. The self-tapping screws are carefully threaded through the caps into the holes on the plank, after which it is turned over so that the fasteners fit into the dowels. You need to put a little pressure on the bar and fix it by lightly tapping it through a layer of paper with a hammer.
- To attach the T-shaped threshold, the required number of holes are also drilled in the floor into which dowels are inserted, after which the strip is attached to the floor using self-tapping screws, and the upper decorative profile is glued or snapped on top.
- Increased attention will need to be paid to installation thresholds in the bathroom, since most often the floor in this room is tiled. There are special thresholds for sale for such finishing material; they do not allow moisture to penetrate into adjacent rooms. Also excellent option a guillotine threshold will be used.
- to install threshold interior door on concrete floor, you will need a hammer drill to drill holes for the dowels. First, markings are also applied to the floor, after which the final installation of the threshold is carried out by tightening it with self-tapping screws.
Installing an interior door threshold video
In addition to aesthetics, decorative interior thresholds also carry a functional load. Installing interior thresholds not only gives the floor a finished look, but also prevents the accumulation of dirt and moisture from getting between the coverings, and also protects the edges of linoleum and carpet from bending and fraying.
Now we in the cities are doomed to count everything. The crazy “craftsmen” immediately rushed to teach everyone how to twist water ones. And then she was born" typical diagram" installation of a water meter, which includes a valve that prevents manipulation of the device. Because of these valves, problems with boilers began to arise and moans and panicked cries rushed across the forums - "Achtung! The pressure in the heating pad is increasing! What should I do?" If there weren't this valve, there wouldn't be any problems. And manufacturers and traders began to profit from the so-called "security groups". But that's another topic...
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Continuation of “a balcony not like everyone else’s.”
It came down to some furniture on the balcony; there wasn’t much room for it, so we decided to make do with a couple of cabinets. The furniture makers did their job normally, but there was a nuance that apparently was beyond their control, or there were other arguments. The hostess was satisfied with everything, except for the design of the junction of the table with the window sill. On the one hand, it seems like you can’t do it the other way, especially since the window sill turned out to be bent, on the other hand
Hello, brothers in repair! I haven’t written anything here for a long time, and in general I started to come in rarely, it’s all somehow too much time: either drinking, or partying, and now a new “attack” has attacked me. But knowing that, despite everything, you stubbornly do not forget me, I decided not to be a pig and tell you about my new hobby. I’ll start from afar: I have worked almost my entire adult life as an electronics engineer, moreover, as an engineer developing electronic and electrical devices of the widest class and purpose, and at the same time purely in the defense industry. It is clear that the scope of my amateur radio interests was limited only by my laziness, there were simply no restrictions on radio components for me, I had EVERYTHING! Well, following the trends of the amateur radio fashion of that time, my main focus was on radio receivers and amplifiers, of course, on transistors and microcircuits. I haven’t worked in this field for a long time, and I threw all the parts into the landfill a long time ago, but all this time I had a dream in my soul - to make a tube power amplifier, and not a simple one, but one that would make everyone gasp. But I must say that at work I spent most of my time dealing with electric vacuum devices, radio tubes, to put it simply, so this topic was very familiar to me. And then there’s this fashion for “warm tube sound”, which people are literally going crazy about. In short, a year ago I decided to make my dream come true. I immediately decided: the mainstream, ordinary tube amplifiers with an output transformer, are not interesting to me, this is not a royal matter! Shouldn't I invent a TRANSFORMER-LESS tube amplifier? Well, I well imagined the difficulties along this path, and I had some of my own thoughts on this matter, but still I decided to consult with the radio amateurs. I found a suitable group on Facebook, started publishing in it myself, and once asked a question on the topic: could anyone tell me the circuit of such an amplifier. And they immediately give me a link: http://hifisound.com.ua...a-6s33s-otl/ (I hope I haven’t violated any Forum rules by providing a direct link here, especially since it’s from a completely different area? ). I won’t talk about this scheme, if anyone is interested, I can later explain what’s what, I’ll just say that this scheme immediately interested me, both for its unusualness and for the potential opportunities that I saw in it. I decided to start. And where to start: there are 0 parts, there is a soldering iron, also a Soviet one, and a tester from Ketai. But, bad luck - the beginning: I got comfortable on Avito, on Ali Express, went to the Mitinsky radio market a couple of times, and began to acquire amateur radio junk. ..
Now I’ll go and take Tinka for a walk, and I’ll continue, if you’re interested, with photos...)))
Show something different from the tables on the blog, otherwise I haven’t been there for a long time.
Children's themes have recently captivated me in a way that is not childish. They asked me to make various items for the kindergarten.
The first subject is educational, necessary and useful. This is a traffic light, children will use it to learn the rules of the road, an extremely important thing.
Let me make a reservation right away: they also made a pedestrian version with people, but a simpler one made from cardboard.
In principle, they asked me to make this three eyes simple cardboard, but can I really do it without any problems)) I thought, shouldn’t I just make a reliable one right away? academic subject, and did. How long is enough?
The concept of the figure is that it is large enough for everyone to see, stable, durable and with a rotating mechanism, the point is that there are 4 sides, one side shows all the signals for a general understanding of the device.
The other three sides are given one signal, the teacher can turn and show any color out of 3 and ask the children about its purpose.
In general, it seemed to me that it would be right
Initial thoughts about color circles on magnets and other light bulbs had to be canceled; we need a simple, understandable solution that is difficult to break; magnetic circles can get lost, light bulbs and batteries can fail.
I don’t know whether the idea succeeded, but time will tell.
The entire base is MDF, which was glued together with PVA; for temporary tack, I also fastened it with a micropin.
Separately, I would like to note that you can use a circular saw to make circles of different diameters and, most importantly, the same size, using a simple device, first we cut square blanks, and then on the device, rotating the part, we cut off the corners to a polyhedron, and then rotating the part we finish it to a circle.
I glued the box together, the visors are halves of the eyes of the circles, I made a groove under them with a router, so such things cannot be securely glued into the end.
The whole thing rotates on a pipe from the joker system, in my opinion, for shelving, so that the stops do not fall out and fall through, which were fixed by bugs.
The base was made massive and wide from thick layers of MDF; with such a base, the traffic light is not so easy to tip over on its side.
I played the fool and drilled right through the pipe, so I had to put a plate on the return side.
I spray painted everything, then varnished it, the thing is ready.
I didn’t paint the signal circles; they were cut out of self-adhesive paper, which makes it easier to update the display item.
It would seem, what could be steps in the apartment , and why are they actually needed? It turns out that they are necessary, because they allow you to differentiate the floor levels of rooms, creating certain accents on functional areas premises. Some steps between rooms have become almost classics of country houses, regardless of the style of the interior. This design solution has long had a lot of fans, since differentiation of floor levels helps to find an unusual solution for interior design and diversify the living space.
This floor looks extremely impressive in a free and spacious room. Openness is best emphasized by 2-3 steps between or between the hall and the living room. As for the existing differences in floor levels, which the steps hide, giving the room an aesthetic appearance, very often they are formed during an expansion, some kind of reconstruction or combination of living space. In houses, such differences can occur when the basement is installed only under part of the building or when it is located on a hillside.
How many steps to make
Surely this is quite important question. Arrangement only one stage is not always reasonable, as it can lead to many traumatic situations, since it is often quite difficult to see one step. In addition, it does not look like a finished object and is something awkward and random. It is widely believed that two steps difficult to overcome, which is why they usually arrange three steps. Five steps is already too much, since the distance between the floor levels will be too large (about a meter). In addition, the construction of five steps will “steal” too much free space in the room.
The three steps represent the most best option, since it is quite easy to overcome a distance of 45-50 cm, and the entire structure will not lose its aesthetic appearance. Of course, the number of steps should also be determined by the difference between the floor levels. If the distance between floor levels is 35 cm, then the number of steps will be two, regardless of your wishes. It is worth noting that the staircase, although small, takes up quite a lot of space. So, 3 steps will “steal” at least 60 cm of your floor in a straight line. In addition, there should be free space immediately in front and behind it at a distance of approximately two steps. It is necessary to follow this rule in order to avoid bumping into furniture just after descending from the steps.
Ladder is an additional element of the interior, and it should not be conspicuous or dominate. Moreover, a structure that is too large will take up a lot of free space, which is completely unnecessary. When installing a staircase structure, you should correlate it with the door opening next to it. So, it must be clearly correlated with the door opening towards it, otherwise unnecessary interference may be created. As for the swing door, it is necessary to leave free a distance equal to the width of the door, that is, about 80 cm. In addition, do not forget that a person must still fit in front of the door. For safety reasons, it is also necessary to provide a sufficient amount of free space for him, otherwise he risks simply falling down the stairs.
Visual effects using steps
Differentiation of floor levels in different rooms makes the living space more interesting and attractive. In this case, the following rule applies: utility and utility rooms are located at a higher level. This allows you to visually increase the height of the ceilings in the adjacent room, for example, in the living room. In the open space of the room, the difference in floor level, when it is lowered or raised, helps to emphasize the allocation of functional areas.
So, the fireplace corner can be placed in a niche located slightly below the floor level in the entire room. The area of the fireplace corner will be determined by the ledge made. The location of the kitchen table on the rise allows you to highlight dining area, for which walls are not needed and. The absence of a wall does not prevent this space from being perceived as a dining area.
A desk located at the level of three steps, shelves with books, an armchair and a computer make it clear to us that a library or workplace is located in this area. In addition, the staircase can serve as a separator between the living room and the private parts of the apartment or house.
Floor ledges can be a starting point for the implementation of original and interesting design solutions. So, on the steps themselves you can equip a seating area or a small flower garden. The placement of a large tabletop on both sides of the steps is an extremely functional and interesting solution, since on one side it can serve as a dining table on the kitchen side and a bar counter in the living room, which is located one level below.
Disadvantages of building steps in a residential area
As already mentioned, the construction small staircase in a living room
- This is an original and functional solution that has many supporters, but it also has many opponents. Firstly, not everyone is eager to climb the steps between rooms several dozen times during the day (or even more). Not everyone is ready to storm the steps between the kitchen and living room with a cup of hot coffee or tea. This is especially difficult for an elderly person, not to mention a baby who can only crawl. For him, the staircase structure will be just another source of danger.
However, in addition to the possible difficulties associated with overcoming steps, there may be other negative consequences of constructing steps. Thus, the space formed and zoned with the help of a staircase is subsequently much more difficult to change than a standard interior. Functional areas separated by steps will remain so, because, for example, it is unlikely that it will be possible to increase the size of the kitchen, which is due to the difference in floor levels. The presence of ledges in the floor will not allow you to swap places between the TV corner and, for example, the library, since the ledges determine the space allocated for a certain area.
Thus, those who like frequent rearrangements and repairs are not recommended to create. The psychological aspect should not be discounted either. Not everyone will like to sit in the living room with someone looking down on them from the kitchen. So, construction stairs in the interior – an original design solution, which, however, requires a serious and responsible approach. But if you nevertheless decide to acquire several steps in the interior space, then, with the right approach, you will acquire a functional, practical and aesthetic element of the interior.
Steps are an element of a flight of stairs. The upper horizontal part of the step is the tread, designed to support the foot. Depending on the purpose, location and configuration of the staircase, the steps can have different shapes. Porch steps are most often made of concrete and then lined with various decorative materials to give them an aesthetic appearance. This has its advantage, since the staircase can be given any look.
Calculation of steps and entrance stairs
The convenience of using steps is determined by their depth, length and height, as well as the cladding material. What and how to make steps from must be decided at the initial stage of construction and. A ready-made set of steps for a porch consists of the following parts: baseboard, riser and tread. They are made either mortise or saddle. Mortise ones are mounted into the bowstring, saddle ones are mounted on top of it. They can be made of wood, concrete, iron or brick.
The staircase, depending on the height and length, may have a different number of treads. In order for the porch to be convenient to use, it is necessary to carry out the calculations correctly.
To calculate the entrance staircase for the porch, you need to determine its height. The height will be the distance from the ground surface to the bottom edge of the door. 3 cm is subtracted from the resulting height. This is important if Entrance door the house is made of wood, because it is most susceptible to the influence of precipitation and with high humidity it can increase slightly in size.
Important! After calculating the height of the porch, it is necessary to determine the angle of inclination of the march. The safety of the structure is related to the angle of inclination, which is defined as the ratio of the height and depth of the step. The safe angle of inclination of the stairs is in the range from 30 to 45 degrees.
By choosing the angle of inclination, you can calculate the entire structure. It is mandatory to calculate the width and height of the porch steps. The height of the step is the sum of the height of the riser and the thickness of the boards. Practice has proven that stairs that are easy to use are those that have risers with a height of 14 to 17 cm and treads with a depth of 27 to 35 cm. The number of treads is calculated by dividing the length of the flight of stairs by the height of the riser.
Calculation of a flight of stairs:
Stair width
The width of a staircase in a private house is determined by the number of people who can walk along it simultaneously in different directions. For the movement of one person, a structure is made with a flight of width from 80 to 100 cm. If the stairs are supposed to move in two directions or carry things, then the width of the stairs increases to 110-120 cm.
Shapes of steps
One of the main criteria that you need to pay attention to when designing a flight of stairs is the shape of the steps.
Steps for flights of stairs can be:
- straight with ordinary rectangular treads. They can be mounted in various ways. This type is the easiest to manufacture;
- round. Their distinctive feature is the radial direction. Sometimes used as the first step and when equipping the entrance porch to a house;
- semicircular. Most often they are installed on a staircase located in the corner of a building or room. They can also be made during the construction of the entrance porch to the house;
- trapezoidal. The sides of such a step have different depths, resulting in a trapezoid shape. They are used in the construction of spiral staircases and rotary staircase structures with winder steps.
Before making steps with your own hands, you should decide on the material. These can be wooden steps made of boards or bricks. Steps made of concrete or metal have proven themselves no worse.
How to make a porch with steps from wood
Risers and treads are connected to each other in several ways:
- with self-tapping screws, when the fastening goes through the tread into the riser;
- into a groove that is cut in advance at the bottom of the tread along the width of the riser;
- on galvanized corners.
Treads on external stairs are often attached to strings, very rarely to stringers. The treads are attached to the string either on pre-nailed bars or in prepared grooves, 3-4 cm deep. If installation is carried out in grooves, the places where the boards are attached are treated with glue. It is better to fasten it to the bars with self-tapping screws.
A manufacturing feature is that external wooden structures cannot be installed directly on the ground. In this case, it is necessary to concrete the foundation.
To do this you need:
- in place of the foundation, dig a hole measuring 30x30 cm and up to 50 cm deep;
- fill the bottom up to 20 cm with a layer of crushed stone or broken brick;
- lay interconnected metal rods on the layer of crushed stone, which should be located from the walls of the pit at a distance of up to 7 cm;
- fill the hole with concrete solution. The foundation is made at each angle. A beam is mounted on top using anchors, which will serve as the basis for the entire structure.
Making marches from concrete and brick
The main advantage of a concrete staircase is that it is not afraid of corrosion, like metal ones, and cannot be deformed. A concrete staircase can be easily shaped into the desired configuration and any covering can be attached to it.
The concrete staircase is filled with a solution, the composition of which includes cement, crushed stone and sand. For one cubic meter of solution you need 1 m3 of sand, 0.85 m3 of crushed stone, 350 kg of cement. To know the amount of concrete, it is necessary to calculate the entire cubic capacity of the stairs, including the foundation. The procedure for preparing the foundation with your own hands has already been described above.
After preparing the foundation, we install the porch ourselves. To do this, we carry out reinforcement and installation of formwork. We lay metal rods at the bottom and install the formwork according to the height and shape of the steps. Pour in the solution and let it harden. We carry out this process until the required number of steps is installed. The poured solution hardens in about two days, but it is recommended to remove the formwork no earlier than after two weeks. After the solution has gained strength, you can lay tiles on it.
Brick steps are advantageous in that they do not leave sediment. Knowing the dimensions of the brick, it is easy to calculate the entrance staircase to the house. Brick treads are easy to process, easy to maintain and operate, and durable.
Do-it-yourself porch concreting:
Step design
Before making a porch, you need to decide what material the steps will be made of. Wooden ones are easy to install, but require some maintenance. Making steps with your own hands takes place in several stages. First you need to choose high-quality wood without thorns, deformations and irregularities. Before working with wood, it is dried naturally, then treated with stain to give it a deeper color.
Important! Wood moisture content should not exceed 10%. If the wood's moisture content is more than 10%, there is no point in using it, since when it dries, the wood will become deformed.
To make steps into a house with your own hands, they use both simple types of wood (pine, birch, ash) and more expensive ones (oak, cedar, maple).
Wooden treads are mounted not only on a wooden string. They are often used when covering metal stairs. A do-it-yourself metal porch is a frame made from a corner. Attach treads to metal structure Just. It is necessary to drill holes in the frame and treads and attach the treads using bolts and nuts to the metal frame.
Marble or granite is used to finish concrete or brick stairs. Very often preference is given to clinker steps and. Porcelain stoneware products are pressed under high pressure a monolith created by sintering sand, quartz, mineral paints and clay.
Porcelain stoneware steps have the qualities of natural granite, withstand significant loads and are resistant to mechanical damage. Porcelain stoneware treads can be slippery in rainy weather or winter. To avoid slipping, they are covered with a special anti-slip coating or tape.
Clinker tiles – finishing material, consisting of natural materials, in particular from environmentally friendly high quality clay, which is subsequently fired. Clinker tiles have qualities similar to those of porcelain stoneware. It has a natural coating and is not subject to mechanical damage.
Customers more often choose porcelain stoneware finishes. Do-it-yourself cladding of steps at the entrance to a house with porcelain tiles is the most popular. The only drawback of porcelain stoneware is the difficulty of installation. If one tile is damaged, the adjacent ones will need to be replaced.
Tiling stair steps:
To cover oval surfaces, bending materials based on polymers or rubber are used. For application of hard narrow shapes are used (laminate, ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware), which allow you to visually repeat the profile of the surfaces being coated.
Interior step, excellent design solution
Initially, I would like to note that laminate is of course considered popular floor covering, but it is not advisable to use it for finishing stairs and interior steps. Due to the small area of the step and the small thickness of the material, it is impossible to install it using a floating method and at the same time maintain all the rules for installation technology.
Note. Considering that laminate is more economical than wood, the material began to be used for these purposes.
Laying technology:
- Initially, the surface must be perfectly leveled and free of debris.
- For better adhesion (if the interior step is made of concrete), the bottom varnish layer of the laminate board is removed.
- Then the surface must be thoroughly coated with adhesive and covered with a laminate cut to size.
Advice. As for the end edges and the junction of the riser and tread, they are decorated using metal and plastic corners of the appropriate color and configuration.
Working with laminate
In order to cut out all the necessary parts from the laminate, an electric jigsaw is used and they are adjusted to the size of the riser. For straight cuts, a wood saw is used, and in our case, for a figured configuration, a thin narrow saw.
Using underlay under laminate:
- For quality finishing, it is recommended to use a 2 mm polyethylene foam backing.
- This will ensure a normal level of sound insulation.
- Reduce vibration when walking.
- Add additional insulation.
Note. Self-tapping screws with small heads are used as fasteners for finishing the oval. Each element of material is screwed into the corners with self-tapping screws, and then carefully pressed with decorative corners.