A shed made from scrap materials. How to build a shed: detailed step-by-step instructions with photos. Deciding on the foundation design

Greetings, comrades! Today we have to decide where, from what and how we can build a garden shed with our own hands. I will describe some of the most popular and affordable solutions and give some tips for building sheds from different materials. Let's get started.

For what

The choice of building design is influenced, first of all, by its purpose. Why do you need a shed? summer cottage? Here are its main functions:

• Storage of tools and equipment. Agree that storing shovels and rakes in a small country house uncomfortable;

• Harvest storage and drying before removing it from the dacha;
• Warehousing of building materials during the construction and finishing of a country house.

From here there are several conclusions:

• Large skylights are not needed. Natural lighting should only allow one to navigate the room: it is not intended for performing any work;
• The building also does not need insulation. Moreover, doors and windows should not be closed hermetically. The shed needs natural ventilation;
• The barn in the country should not be large. The optimal dimensions are no more than 2x3 meters with a roof height of 2.4-2.5 m;

• The presence of an attached canopy is welcome. A shed with a canopy will allow you to quickly dry dug up potatoes or carrots, even on a rainy day.

Where

Where exactly on the site can you build a shed for a summer house? The answers will be found in SNiP 2.07.01-89, which regulates the planning and development of rural and urban settlements.

1. Like any other buildings, a barn can be built no closer than 5 meters from the red line (that is, from the roadway);
2. The shed must leave at least a meter of clearance between its back wall and the fence shared with its neighbors;
3. The distance from the shed to the windows of the neighbor’s house should not be less than 6 meters;

If the building is used to keep livestock and poultry, this distance increases to 15 meters.

Available options

So, what can you use to quickly and inexpensively build a shed?

Image	Construction material and description
	Container for cargo transportation is a ready-made solution with a securely closing door that prevents theft of your property. It only needs to be protected from corrosion by raising it 20-30 centimeters above ground level. The price of a 5-ton used container is from 18,000 rubles.
	Board. As a rule, the building is erected from the cheapest possible unedged boards of coniferous species (pine, spruce and fir). The cheapest solution, but also the most short-lived: plank walls rot and become tasty food for insects, so the service life of a shed rarely exceeds 7-10 years.
	OSB or plywood on a timber frame. A frame shed without impregnation and protective and decorative coatings lasts the same 7-10 years. However, it is worth covering it with vinyl siding or protecting the walls decorative plaster- and the resource of the building will increase by 3-4 times.
	Brick barn: beautiful, durable, expensive. Your children and grandchildren will be able to use this building. The downside of reliability (in addition to the high costs of building materials) is the labor-intensive pouring of a strip foundation and a significant time investment in laying walls.
	Aerated concrete, foam concrete, slag concrete, shell rock- relatively inexpensive materials with a large block size. They can significantly reduce construction costs and time. However, in this case, you will have to pour a strip foundation, which will prevent the walls from deforming.

Problems and solutions

Now - a little more about how to build a barn with your own hands in each specific case.

Option 1: container

The container, intended only for storing tools, does not require any modification. It only needs to be protected from direct contact with the ground by raising it to a height of a couple of tens of centimeters. To do this, the easiest way is to build a columnar foundation from brick or FBS concrete blocks.

Columnar foundation a barn can only be built from red brick. White (silicate) does not tolerate prolonged contact with water and quickly loses strength at high humidity.

The disadvantage of a steel container is that if you need to install skylights and additional doors in it, you will not be able to do it without power tools. You will need at least a grinder to cut out openings and welding machine for inserting a door frame, and not all dachas have electricity.

Option 2: board

A lightweight columnar foundation is also quite suitable for building a shed from boards. It can be made not only from concrete blocks or bricks, but also from old car tires. They are laid out along the perimeter of the future building in increments of no more than 2.5 meters and filled with low-grade concrete (M100 - M150).

When concreting supports, insert lengths of corrugated reinforcement vertically into the concrete. They will act as anchors: the lower frame of the walls will be securely fixed to the supports.

timber bottom trim (usually with a cross-section of 100x100 mm) is laid on posts on top of a layer of waterproofing, which prevents water from suction from the ground. Typically, waterproofing is done with roofing felt laid in two layers.

The ideal material for the bottom trim is larch. Unlike pine, spruce and fir, it practically does not rot and can remain in water for years without losing strength.

Vertical racks in the corners they are constructed from the same timber and fixed with bevels. The lower and upper trims are attached to the racks with galvanized corners.

Floor joists rest on the beam of the lower trim. The step with a thickness of flooring boards of 40 mm is about half a meter.

Wall cladding boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more are overlapped, with the top board overlapping the bottom one. Fastening the boards with nails at the top and bottom edges.

For the construction of beams of a pitched roof you can use a 100x50 mm board, placed on its edge and secured to the top frame with galvanized corners.

Roofing material(slate, metal tiles or corrugated sheets) is attached directly to them. To fasten slate, use roofing nails; for metal tiles and corrugated sheets, use self-tapping screws with rubber press washers. After installing the roof and installing the door, the barn is ready.

Option 3: OSB on a wooden frame

The general principles for constructing outbuildings from OSB or plywood on a wooden frame are the same as when building from boards. The differences are minimal:

1. When installing vertical posts, you can use temporary cuts from scraps of boards or bars stuffed onto the posts and tied around them. When assembling the walls, the sheathing will give the frame the necessary rigidity;
2. The walls are reinforced with intermediate posts made of 100x50 mm timber in increments of 60 cm (half the width of the OSB sheet).

Option 4: brick

A brick barn for a summer residence is erected on a shallow strip foundation. How to build it? Here are the step-by-step instructions:

Image	Description
	Digging a pit: a trench 40-50 cm deep is opened along the perimeter of the future building.
	Bedding: the trench is filled 10 cm with crushed stone or crushed stone-sand mixture. The backfill will perform the function of drainage and will prevent rain and melt water from eroding the soil under the foundation.
	Formwork is constructed at a height of 30 cm above ground level. Material - board or, better, laminated plywood.
	Waterproofing: the trench is covered with roofing felt or polyethylene. Waterproofing material will prevent cement laitance from going into the ground and weakening the concrete.
	Reinforcement: a reinforcing frame is constructed in the trench from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Fastening the reinforcement elements with knitting wire.
	Fill: the trench and formwork are filled with concrete and bayoneted to prevent the formation of cavities in the body of the foundation.

Walls laid brick thick (25 cm), with bandaging between the rows. Every fifth row is bonded (the brick is laid across the wall).

The mauerlat is attached to the top row of masonry with anchors- a beam with a section of 100x100 mm, to which the roof beams are attached.

Option 5: blocks

Differences from brickwork here's the minimum:

1. If you use larger ceramic or silicate blocks instead of bricks, country barn can be erected with walls as thick as the width of the block;
2. Beams impregnated with an antiseptic can not be attached to the mauerlat, but embedded in the masonry of the walls.

As an example of such a building, I took several photographs of a shed built in the yard of the house next door to me. In Crimea, where I live, outbuildings for dachas are built with your own hands from scrap materials, mainly from local sedimentary rocks.

Conclusion

I hope that the ideas and recommendations I have outlined will help the dear reader build a comfortable and inexpensive garden shed. The video in this article will be a source of additional information for you. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

At first glance, it seems that building a shed is simple. Choose a picture you like on the Internet or drawings of a utility unit you like - and build it for your health. Moreover, you can make a barn from timber, using frame technology, or even a stone one - from brick or aerated concrete. But behind the apparent ease lies the main pitfall. The barn in the picture is not yours, but “that guy’s.” Will it be right for you, will it be convenient to use this outbuilding, will everything that is planned fit into it? You will learn the answers to these questions, and more, from our article. Namely:

• What is a shed for?
• How to determine optimal sizes outbuilding.
• How to turn a barn into a multi-functional building.
• What are utility blocks built from and on what foundation?

Where does the construction of a barn begin?

Often, a barn is the first building that is erected on a site, at the start of building a house or even before that. To hide tools, building materials, to take shelter from bad weather or to spend the night - in everything, the “shed” becomes an indispensable and universal assistant.

After the site has been inhabited, the tools and equipment necessary for caring for the garden and vegetable garden are stored in the outbuilding.

They drag in snow removal equipment, lawn mowers, and building materials that were left after the construction of the cottage. And often - everything that is a pity to throw away or is planned to be left “for later”, because a zealous owner makes everything work.

It is not surprising that over time the barn turns into a “junk pile”, filled with a mass of necessary and unnecessary things. If it is easier for the owner to go to the market and buy what is needed on the farm spanner or hardware, rather than finding them in the utility room, then something needs to be done about it. And you need to start in advance, even before the construction of the shed begins, by properly designing it and calculating the optimal dimensions.

MAX001 FORUMHOUSE Member

I have brick house for 200 sq. m and an ordinary change house measuring 6x3 meters. One day I realized that the change house, which had been in use for 3 years, had outlived its usefulness. I sold it and wondered what to do with the tool and other things pulled out of it. I decided to build a barn. At this stage, I made a fatal mistake - I consulted with my wife about the dimensions of the outbuilding. As a result of lengthy negotiations, during which my wife did not see the point in building something big, we came to a common denominator - a small utility block, approximately 2.5x3 meters + high ceilings.

We will immediately show what happened to the user.

The problem is that all the beautiful “pictures” correct placement things in the barn crashed on the reefs a year later harsh reality. The racks and shelves were filled with various “junk”, and there was practically no free space left.

When asked what to do about it, the user found the only correct answer - to attach another one to the barn... a barn. According to MAX001, headaches can be avoided if you immediately erect an outbuilding of normal size. And so I had to buy another iron door, build walls, and so on down the list.

But now everything fits in the barn.

Although there is an opinion that the larger the shed, the more clutter it can become, there are minimum dimensions below which you should not build. Otherwise, you’ll have to throw everything up to the ceiling, filling the shed like a shopping bag. There will never be order in the utility room. The starting point for calculating the dimensions of the utility unit is the physical dimensions of the things that you are going to store there.

Ironka Member of FORUMHOUSE

My mother built a shed at the dacha measuring only 9 square meters. m. As a result: now you can only stand in the middle. Moreover, nothing large, in the form of any special equipment, is stored there. Just a bicycle, greenhouse films, hoes, axes, saws, nails and various small things. I think that building a shed less than 15-18 square meters. m not worth it. This way there will still be room left in reserve.

MAX001

My shed is about 12 square meters. m. is saved by the fact that the ceilings are high, you can put up shelving. I even use the space between the rafters - I filled the bars and store folding country furniture there, and in the summer - skis.

In addition, the user increased the functionality of the shed by mounting a shed for the firewood on the outside wall (stone), where it is now possible to store about 2 cubes of logs.

Cosolapyj FORUMHOUSE Member

I decided to build a barnhouse style because... the number of tools and various equipment exceeded all reasonable limits. It is not possible to store everything compactly, so the shed will have the appropriate dimensions - 8x18 meters, at USHP.

When constructing outbuildings, the user recommends adhering to the principle “do a little more at once than you can afford, and you won’t have to redo it for longer.”

Let's add that in the barn Cosolapyj plans to equip a workshop, make a water supply for car washing, and also (eventually) install an ATV and a garden grader.

We'll also show you the barn plans.

From left to right: a storage room and a place for a grader, in the middle is a workshop, on the left is a shed.

How to calculate the optimal dimensions of a shed and turn it into a universal utility unit

As can be seen from what is written above, by the word “shed” each developer means his own building. In one case, you need a small outbuilding for storing garden tools and various small items, and in another, the barn grows to the size of a house. But there is one nuance that unites them. This is ease of use.

The shed must be practical, which means it must be made for specific needs.

Therefore, instead of taking the dimensions of the shed from the Internet or from a neighbor, it is better to decide for yourself what you need the shed for and what you plan to store in it.

There can be many options for such planning. For example, at the initial stage of construction in a shed it is necessary to place tools, some building materials, equip sleeping places.

In the future, the barn can be transformed from just a “storage room” on the site - into a workshop, as well as a place for storing firewood or pellets.

Or it can turn into a “garage” for storing various equipment - a motor cultivator, lawn mower, vibratory rammer, snow blower, etc.

Any summer resident has a basic set of tools and agricultural equipment, which he cannot do without on his plot. It is from this list that you need to start when calculating the minimum dimensions of the shed.

For example, to store a simple set of garden tools - shovels, rakes, axes, hoes, small spades, saws, brooms - you can allocate 2 square meters. m.

If you plan to actively garden and store fertilizers and greenhouse materials in the shed, increase the area to 3-4 square meters. m.

If you have electric tools: gas trimmer, washer high pressure, garden pumps, hoses, sets of common tools, you need even more space - 5 or more square meters.

Practice shows that the averaged and The optimal size for an outbuilding can be taken as dimensions of 3x6 meters with a height of 2.5 m.

In this case, it will be possible to place long building materials in the shed - boards and fittings. Set up a small workspace for a home handyman, install racks for storing hardware and various household items.

When building a shed, do not forget about arranging a small terrace with a canopy, where you can work outside in bad weather or just relax while sitting at your desk in the evening.

An important stage is zoning the barn. To do this, we divide the building into a number of rooms - blocks, each of which stores its own. For example, “dirty” things - garden wheelbarrow, shovels, rakes, spades, watering hoses, i.e. It is better not to drag what is needed for working with the soil into the outbuilding, but to place it on the side in a small compartment with separate doors.

This way, these tools will always be at hand and you won’t have to sweep/wipe the floor in the barn every time, cleaning out sand, black soil, fertilizers or clay.

We allocate space for a work table, shelves with carpentry and plumbing tools and places to store bolts, nuts, nails, screws, etc.

Rule: we place what is required first and most often closer to the entrance. Anything that is rarely used or used seasonally can be placed in the back of the shed against the far wall.

If you plan to store long materials in the barn, then, for ease of pulling them in, you should make the door not in the middle of the building, but on the side - on the right or left, or at the end. If you are not “greedy” at the height of the barn, then the attic can also become the optimal place for storing leftover fittings, boards, plywood, and pipes.

Those. everything that is not needed often, but can be easily obtained if necessary. In addition, even before construction we think about whether the barn will be insulated. In our climatic conditions, this will allow working in outbuildings in late autumn and winter.

Household block: design options and construction features

Experienced developers know well that it is better to learn from the mistakes of others, so as not to make mistakes in their construction. To do this, it is best to study the experience of portal users who have already built sheds and cabins. Therefore, in this part of the article we have collected illustrative examples of practical utility units.

What materials can you build a shed from? The experience of our users shows: from any. It all depends on the budget and the intended design. Everything is used, they build from wooden budget outbuildings standing on, to permanent buildings made of brick or aerated concrete. In any case, you should start by developing a plan, and ideally a project. An illustrative example is a portal participant with the nickname AlexanderFJTI.

AlexanderFJTI User FORUMHOUSE

It all started when I conceived the idea of ​​building a utility complex - combining a barn, a terrace and a bathhouse under one roof. Construction began with a model. I bought slats at the store and, together with my son, built a model of a multi-shed in the winter.

Note that the barn was built using one of the most common technologies used for the construction of such objects - frame. Screw piles were used as the foundation.

AlexanderFJTI

21 piling crew from three people twisted it by hand. They worked very quickly. The piles were cut to the water level, the shaft was filled with cement-sand mortar, and the cap was welded on top and everything was painted. Next I started building the frame. And this is what happened in the end.

To save on the services of a construction team, it is better to build the barn yourself and use the experience gained when building a house.

A different approach was taken Goshapiter.

Goshapiter FORUMHOUSE Member

There was a barn on my property that my grandfather built back in 2001. The building served faithfully all these years, but it became “cramped” for all the equipment stored there. In addition, it was worn out, so I decided to build a new one from permanent polystyrene foam formwork. Dimensions from the inside - 4800x3600 mm. The roof is flexible tiles.

As a foundation, the user erected a “ribbon”, within the perimeter of which, from the inside, a slab was poured.

In this option, the slab is also the finished subfloor of the barn. In addition, the problem of possible rotting of the wooden floor disappears. You can also, without fear of a “trampoline,” place heavy shelving, a table with tools, machines and vices in the barn.

The inside of the utility block was finished with OSB boards, which were secured on guides from the drywall fastening. Siding was used on the outside.

Goshapiter

Everything fit in the barn - bicycles, gardening equipment, tiles left over from building a house. Construction took 1.5 months. It would have turned out faster if not for “wet” concrete work.

Another example of an unusual barn - a utility block Dmitr173, made from homemade tongue-and-groove boards.

Dmitr173 FORUMHOUSE Member

I, like any owner of a country plot, thought about building a barn. It should accommodate: a small workshop; my wife needs a corner for storing gardening supplies. Besides this, I would like to build something original - for the soul.

Having drawn up the technical specifications and gone through several options, the user decided to build a shed from tongue-and-groove boards. The foundation is a proven and relatively inexpensive MZLF (shallow strip foundation).

For maximum use natural light There is a transparent polycarbonate insert in the roof of the barn.

D This includes not only recreation and picnics, but also work that requires a variety of tools. Obviously, the tool should be stored in its designated place, and a small shed is a good place for this. Let's consider how to make a shed in the country and what is needed for this.

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Video version of the article

Let's start with the plan (project of a barn at the dacha)

In the construction business, project development is carried out by special project teams, but it’s hardly worth hiring a company to develop a project as simple as a garden shed. It is quite possible to do it on your own - find drawings on the Internet, or develop your own project by reading how to make a shed with your own hands in our article.

The most suitable structural solution for small utility buildings is frame building, covered with boards or sheet materials.

To place a couple of shovels, a rake, a hoe, a wheelbarrow, a watering hose, etc., it’s enough to do barn 2.5*1.5 meters in plan, with a lean-to.

Two meters in height is enough, plus 20 cm of rise to form a slope. The roof is an asbestos-cement corrugated sheet, commonly known as “slate” (more about its installation), pitch: 2500/3 ≈ 830 mm. The sheathing is plank “in a running pattern”, with gaps approximately equal to the width of the sheathing board.

Installing a window for a structure that is essentially a box for garden tools is hardly advisable. During the day there is enough light falling from open door, and for ease of use in the dark we will provide an electric one. You can also make a window for beauty, no one will stop you.

The best choice of foundation would be those located under each of the four corners of the building. For piles, thin ones treated with creosote or another antiseptic are sufficient. A more expensive alternative is rolled steel, screw or bored piles.

As an option, monolithic ones are also possible, with a depth of about half a meter. They are suitable for small thicknesses of the fertile layer and shallow dense soils.

The depth of the foundation is usually taken based on considerations so that it penetrates the loose layer of black soil. If the thickness of such a layer is significant, it is enough to immerse the pile into chernozem by 60-70 cm.

Heating of the barn is not provided, so there is no need to talk about any thermal insulation of the walls. The electrical part of our shed will be a wall lamp and. You can also place sockets (necessarily waterproof) on the shed for easy connection of power tools, such as a lawn mower.

Scheme, drawing of a barn at the dacha

Based on the characteristics described above, we draw a drawing or sketch of the future building, indicating the main dimensions.

Since a garden shed is a fairly simple structure, it is enough to depict it from three sides (views):

Front view, from the entrance - architects call this image the “main facade”;
side view, or “side elevation”;
finally, a top view - a plan of the building.

The building plan is depicted in such a way as if the barn is supposed to be built without a roof. The plan indicates the location of the frame posts, trim and cladding parts.

All drawings are provided with dimension lines and dimension values ​​in millimeters (as is customary in construction drawings) with an accuracy of 10 mm. This means that the last digit of each size will be “0” (Fig. 1).

Materials for building a barn at the dacha

M We are looking at how to make a shed for gardening equipment and tools. It is not suitable for storing plumbing and construction tools, much less power-driven tools.

Carpentry or how to build a shed

When the floors are ready, they move on to carpentry work: a grillage is made from timber on laid piles, which will serve as the lower belt of the barn. Then the racks are placed vertically along a plumb line, securing them first with temporary and then with permanent braces, similar to how it was described in the article about the device.

The cheapest, but fairly reliable treatment is painting with lime compounds. In addition to being an antiseptic, lime also somewhat increases the fire resistance of wood. The disadvantage of this color is its low durability, which requires updating it at least once every two years.

Additional information regarding small auxiliary structures can be found in the article about.

Frame barn on a foundation made of permanent formwork

Afterword

In conclusion, we can say that when planning how to make a shed for garden tools, it is better to place it on the edge of the living area of ​​the dacha, so that the tools are located as close as possible to the place of their most frequent use.

You can build a utility block at your dacha with your own hands from available and inexpensive materials. Such materials are foam blocks and wood.

If finances allow you, then you can build a utility block out of brick, but this structure will cost you much more.

This construction is somewhat similar to. It is small in size and is universal because it can be used for different purposes.

Initially, utility blocks served to store tools and country equipment, but over time, the owners began to use them as a summer kitchen and for relaxation.

You can not build a utility block at your dacha with your own hands, but purchase a ready-made modular structure, but this is too simple and expensive.

We'll talk about how to build it using wood and foam blocks.

Where to install a utility unit at the dacha?

The choice of location directly depends on the purpose of the building, therefore:

• a utility block for animals is installed at least 12 meters from the house and at a distance of 4 meters from neighbors;
• if you plan to build a utility block with your own hands with a shower in your dacha, then place it 8 meters from the house and a meter from the neighbors. This remaining meter can be used for ;
• when combining a utility unit with a toilet and shower, you should install it at the back of the house, so you will save space by combining everything in one project.

You can build a utility block at the dacha as an extension to the garden house, connecting it to a blank northern wall.

An equally interesting option could be a two or three-story block. It can be used for its direct purpose, as well as drying hay, laying hens, breeding pigeons and other wishes of the owners.

The choice of location for such a building should be based on the area (of which there should be a lot) and the presence of vegetation (there should be no tall trees or ponds).

Drawings of utility units for a summer residence

The drawings are applied to paper with the required dimensions corresponding to your choice.

If you have a large agricultural area, it is quite possible to build a utility block on it for storing equipment and garden supplies.

In this case, you will need a utility unit combined with a pantry.

You should use this drawing.

To build a utility block with your own hands at the dacha with a toilet and shower, you should use this drawing.

For an outbuilding with only a toilet, take note of the project below.

How to build a wooden outbuilding with your own hands?

We will tell you how to build a small building 6x3x3 meters.

For it you should purchase the following materials:

• beam;
• board;
• plywood;
• roofing felt;
• gravel;
• sand;
• cement;
• asbestos cement pipe with a diameter of 15 cm.

Gravel, cement and sand will be needed to prepare concrete.

Foundation for a wooden outbuilding at the dacha

You should start with markings. is installed on posts that are placed in the corners and in the center of the walls at 6 meters.

Forming sand cushion layer 10 cm and compact well.

The tables are buried to a depth of one meter, first covering the hole with a layer of gravel.

Sand is poured into the foundation columns for the utility block at the dacha, after first checking the verticality of the installation with a building level.

Inside the pillars, cement is poured into a third of the pillars and raised and completely filled with cement.

The resulting foundation will be strong and reliable, so you can proceed to the foundation itself.

If desired, you can use anchors or fittings, but for a utility block in a country house this element is considered superfluous.

How to make a frame for a utility room out of wood with your own hands

We install 15x15 timber in the shape of a rectangle so that they correspond to our 6x3 dimensions.

The corners must be fastened with self-tapping screws using the half-timber technique.

It is necessary to lay roofing material between the frame and the foundation column. Its ends are bent down so that water can flow freely.

Don't forget about what is possible when applying two layers of olive.

Reinforce the frame with 3 transverse 10x10 timber beams, placing them at equal intervals.

Wooden outbuilding frame for a summer residence

To create a frame, use a beam with a small diameter. When assembling the ends, remember the presence of windows.

It is better to secure the racks for the frame with self-tapping screws with steel corners.

The racks in the middle are installed at intervals of 1.80 cm. To build a utility block with your own hands with two rooms, you should make two openings for the doors.

Do-it-yourself roof for a wooden outbuilding

The rafters should also be fastened with self-tapping screws, covering the overhangs and cornices with boards.

Then you can lay the roof using slate.

Household block for a dacha made of foam blocks

Good stuff, which is perfect for creating a country house. It is easy and quick to work with foam blocks, and their service life is more than 25 years.

In order to build a utility block with your own hands from foam blocks, you need to remove 50 centimeters of soil.

• pour (it will dry up to 7 days, and in hot weather it is better to water it with water so that it does not crack);
• after drying, it creates a waterproofing layer using roofing material;
• we prepare a cement-sand mortar for laying foam blocks (1 to 4);
• Laying foam blocks for the construction of a utility block at the dacha should start from the corners, and then you can begin building the walls.

When laying, take care of the space for window and door openings.

When starting the roof, choose the appropriate material and create a pitched or gable roof.

When the household block made from foam blocks, made by yourself, is ready, you can begin installing windows and doors.

Only then do it interior decoration. You can insulate the floor, plaster the walls and decorate the room to your taste.

On ours, you can ask any question and get an answer from professional builders and just amateurs.

A barn on a country plot is vital. Otherwise, you will have to store gardening tools and equipment in the house itself. Naturally, this will not contribute to comfortable living. A barn is a simple, lightweight structure. Making it with your own hands is quite possible for most skilled men.

Why do you need a frame shed?

An outbuilding in the form of a barn on a country plot is vital. It is intended for storing gardening and gardening equipment, ranging from a simple shovel or hoe to a walk-behind tractor, watering pump and other expensive equipment. In addition, storing pesticides, fertilizers or a small supply of gasoline in other rooms is simply unsafe.

Thanks to frame barn it will be possible to store all garden tools

Advantages of frame construction

The main advantage frame structure is its rapid erectability and low construction complexity. The benefits are as follows:

1. Possibility of using second or third grade lumber.
2. Ease of design.
3. Opportunity fast travel to another place, if provided for by the design of the building. To do this, the support frame is made with a small protrusion and an undercut at an angle of 45 degrees, forming something like runners.
4. Fast construction.

If we talk about the shortcomings of structures of this kind, they arise only in connection with design or execution errors.

A frame shed is built quickly and easily

Preparation for construction, design and calculations

Preparation for building a shed consists of the following activities:

1. Determining the location. Since this building is intended for storing items and materials needed for use in the garden, the shed should be placed in an area adjacent to the front garden. To save space, it is better to build it closer to the boundary. The rules state that the shed should not be located closer than one meter to the neighboring plot.
2. It is better to choose the dimensions of the building in plan for reasons of rational use of materials. So, the optimal size option would be 6x4 meters. In this case, the length corresponds to the dimensions of the standard length of lumber - 6 meters, and the width assumes a two-meter long waste, which can be used for racks on the low (rear) side of the building. For the front part, you can cut the timber in half and take it completely onto the racks.
3. Thus, the main dimensions of the barn with a pitched roof, the angle of inclination of which will be about 14 degrees, have been determined. This ideal option buildings in terms of rational use of materials.
4. The distance between the frame posts should be no more than one and a half meters. At the extreme openings, jibs must be installed to counteract wind loads. The size of the timber for them should be the same as the size of the supporting support posts. If a beam of 100x100 millimeters is used, then the jib can be made from a beam of 50x100. A total of 8 such parts will be needed.
5. The upper frame frame must be made of timber of the same size as the lower one, in our case it is 100x100 mm.
6. For rafters, you can use 50x150 mm timber, installed vertically in width.
7. External wall cladding should be made from any waterproof sheet material: plywood, OSB boards, plasterboard. A common material for walls is unedged board. The board must be sanded before installation.

Let's look at the supporting structure. The barn does not need a massive foundation. It can be installed on small concrete blocks, using them in the corners and in the middle of the walls. However, in areas with high wind loads, it is better to use screw anchors. This is a miniature version of a screw pile. It is enough to install them at a distance of two meters from each other, the total need for such parts will be 8 pieces.

If you use the frame diagram, you can make a durable shed with your own hands

Preparing the shed installation site

The site for this building is prepared as follows:

1. It is necessary to free up space from the fertile layer, which will require removing the soil to a depth of 30 centimeters. Carefully level and compact the surface.
2. After this, it is necessary to arrange a drainage layer by pouring sand 12–15 centimeters thick into the recess. Fill the rest with medium grade gravel and compact the entire surface.

Thus, the likelihood of stagnant water under the shed is reduced, which will easily drain through the drainage.

Calculation of material requirements

The amount of materials needed to build a shed can be conveniently calculated in tabular form.

Table: example of calculating materials for building a shed

In addition to the above, you will need a plastic film for moisture protection. With a width of three meters, it requires 20 linear meters for the outer protective layer and the same amount for the inner one. Depending on price indicators, it can be replaced with roofing felt.

The final roof covering is taken for the simplest of financial reasons. Regular slate or fiberglass, galvanized or painted corrugated sheeting are suitable. When calculating the need, you need to take into account overhangs with a width of 0.3–0.5 meters.

It is better to make the interior decoration from sheet material. Leftovers from finishing the house will also come in handy.

Thermal insulation in an unheated barn room has the opposite meaning. In hot weather, it is important to maintain the temperature from overheating in the sun. In such a situation, without thermal insulation, it will be very uncomfortable to be in it. It is also important to perform high-quality waterproofing of the walls.

A frame shed can also be built on poles

Tools for building a shed

For such a simple structure, the need for tools is small.

Table: Tools for building a shed

Step-by-step instructions for building a frame shed

To build a shed you need to perform a series of sequential steps:

How to make a foundation

To build a shed you do not need a strong foundation. Often it is simply installed on brick stands. This directly depends on the nature of the soil at the location. If the subsoil layer consists of clay or heavy loam, this threatens significant soil movements, as a result of which the structure can be warped, damaging the walls and jamming the doors. In such a situation, you need a fairly deep foundation, the supporting part of which will be below the freezing level of the soil.

The following types of support foundations meet these conditions:

1. Pile-screw. Screw piles are screwed into the ground to the required depth, their upper ends must be aligned horizontally along a stretched cord. Then the heads are installed on them to secure the support beam. In addition to the quality of the soil, this choice can be made when building a barn on a slope.
2. Columnar. For the device, you need to dig (or drill) holes below the freezing level of the soil. At the bottom, make drainage from sand (12–15 centimeters) and gravel in approximately the same layer, compact the backfill. Reinforcement is made with a frame of steel rods in the amount of 4–6 pieces vertically, fastened with cross members. The reinforcement support must be assembled on the surface and immersed in the pit. Install formwork of the required height on top of the ground. Concrete is poured into the ground. After seven days, the formwork can be removed and work can continue.

It makes no sense to consider other foundation designs. They are heavier and more expensive to construct: strip, grillage and other types of support bases, and they are inappropriate for a structure weighing several hundred kilograms.

Photo gallery: types of lightweight foundations for lightweight buildings

A columnar foundation with a concrete grillage serves as a reliable support Lightweight foundation on piles will withstand loads on unfavorable soils A pile-screw foundation with a wooden grillage does not require a shed to install earthworks Strip foundation- lightweight option for installing a light structure

Frame structure

The base for the shed is ready for further installation when the timber frame is installed and secured over the supports. It should represent a regular rectangle, the diagonals of which are equal to each other. The check is carried out by measuring with a long tape measure or cord.

Frame assembly:

1. Installation of floor joists. A timber measuring 50x150 mm is used. The distance between the logs should be 75 cm. Each of them cuts into the strapping beam to a depth of 50 mm. The corresponding insert is also performed. It needs to be secured with a nail in the middle and two corners to the body of the strapping beam.
2. Installation corner posts. Three-meter high racks are installed on the front wall, and two-meter high ones on the rear wall. The distance between them is 1.5 meters. Corner posts are placed vertically with plumb control. They need to be fixed with temporary jibs, check the verticality again and secure them to the harness with two corners and two flat plates each. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
3. A cord is stretched between the corner posts and the rest are installed at the specified distance along it. Fastening is done with angles and plates.
4. Installation of the top trim made of 100x100 mm timber. For inclined beams, the supports are cut with the required slope.
5. Installation of transfers for roofing made of 50x150 mm timber. When connecting parts, a cut-in is made on the support beams. The transfers are fastened with screws or M12 studs with wide washers, two screws per joint.
6. Jib fastening. They need to be placed from the top of the corner posts to the bottom trim. The material for them is a 50x100 mm block. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
7. Lathing on the walls. It is made from a 50x100 mm bar. The parts are placed in openings formed by racks at a distance of a meter from each other, parallel to the frames. Fastening is done using flat plates with self-tapping screws.

As an option, you can consider making a shed frame from profile pipe size 60x60x3 mm. The dimensions of the building are the same; the distance from the base of the lower frame to the top should be two meters.

The profile pipe for the frame will ensure long-term operation of the shed

The work is performed in the following order:

1. Preparation of parts: racks and sheathing. Metal cutting is done with a grinder. In addition to pipe parts, you need to prepare metal corners that are installed at each pipe connection. The size of a triangular part made of steel 3 mm thick is 200x200 mm.
2. The frame is welded by electric welding with angle control. The face welds are cleaned and the reinforcement is removed.
3. Before further assembly, the metal frame is treated with a primer and then coated with metal paint.
4. With a metal base, sheet materials are used for wall cladding: flat slate, fiberglass, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.
5. Moisture protection in this option is necessary. The film is pre-fixed with construction tape.
6. Translations and logs are made from the same timber as for a wooden frame.

Video: building a metal frame for a barn

Floor and wall cladding

Further work on a wooden or steel frame is carried out almost identically:

1. Wall covering. It can be made using various sheet materials. For economic reasons, we will opt for unedged boards. Before filling the boards onto the posts and sheathing, it is necessary to install a moisture barrier made of 200 micron thick polyethylene film or roofing felt. You can fasten it with a construction stapler to metal brackets.

   Unedged boards are perfect for finishing the walls of a barn.

2. Cover the back wall with boards in two-meter long sections, that is, three parts each. Fill the first row of boards, on top of which install the second one, bridging the gaps. Similarly, sheath the front wall with boards three meters long, as well as the sides of the barn. Trimming the end of the side walls should be done in place after finishing the wall cladding.
3. Before laying the roof, install a ceiling covering, which is best made from sheet material. First, make an internal sheathing from a board 25 mm thick, then stretch the moisture protection film, and attach the facing material to it with self-tapping screws.

   For the ceiling in a barn it is better to use sheet material

4. The ceiling insulation should be covered with any slab or roll material. A popular solution is to use expanded clay with a fraction of 5–10 millimeters. Fill it up between transfers and level it out. Install moisture protection on top, then finishing coat roofs.
5. To insulate the walls of the shed, you can lay one layer of insulation from the inside.
6. Then sew the support strips along the bottom of the lag plane, and arrange a sheathing of 25 mm thick edged boards on them.
7. Install moisture protection.
8. Insulate the floor in the same way as the ceiling.
9. Lay the floor covering over the joists. First you need to make a subfloor. You can use edged or unedged boards for it. A finishing coating is placed on top of the finished floor. In operating conditions of the barn, it is better to lay the floor with flat slate or cement-bonded particle board.

   The last thing to do is cover the walls from the inside with any sheet material.

Calculation of the need for insulating materials

Thermal insulation of the floor is made with expanded clay. It is advisable to use a fraction of 5–10 millimeters. To insulate walls, it is better to take roll or slab materials, using leftovers from building a house.

How much expanded clay do you need?

The volume of this bulk material is determined by the area of ​​the backfill and the thickness of the layer. The floor area is: 6 x 4 = 24 square meters, the backfill layer taking into account the layer thickness of 0.1 meters will be 24 x 0.1 = 2.4 cubic meters For the ceiling you will need the following amount: 24 x 1.16 = 28 meters, 2, 4 + 2.8 = 5.2 cubic meters. The coefficient of 1.16 takes into account the angle of inclination of the side walls.

How much slab or roll insulation is needed?

The need for this material is determined by the area of ​​the walls:

1. The front wall has an area of ​​6 x 2 = 12 square meters.
2. The total surface of the side walls will be: 4 x 2.5 x 2 = 20 sq. m.
3. Front wall area: 3 x 8 = 18 sq. m.

Thus, the total area of ​​insulation for covering the walls will be: 12 + 20 + 18 = 50 sq. m.

Photo gallery: finishing work of the barn

Sheathing the walls of a barn with planks is inexpensive and lasts a long time. Glass wool reliably maintains the temperature in the barn Laying OSB boards on the floor is a practical option for a barn Material with low thermal conductivity will protect the shed from overheating in the summer