Proper replacement of water pipes in an apartment with your own hands. Choice of material. Changing the water supply system with your own hands Replacing water pipes in an apartment with your own hands

If water supply pipes in an apartment need to be replaced, most people invite a specialist.

Is it possible to try to do this yourself?

What to change for

The modern market can offer us:

• Black and galvanized steel pipes;
• Copper;
• Metal-plastic;
• Polypropylene.

The comparative advantages and disadvantages of these materials have already been mentioned several times, so let’s just briefly go over the main points.

Steel pipes without anti-corrosion coating

pros

• Mechanical strength;
• Cheapness;
• Availability of fittings.

Minuses

• Susceptibility to corrosion and overgrowth of the internal surface, especially in cold water;
• Heavy weight;
• Labor-intensive installation with welding or on.

Galvanized pipes

This pipe is afraid of rust only where the deeply cut threads have exposed the steel from under the zinc layer. At the same time, the price of the pipe has increased, and installing it is still not easy work.

Advice: however, where special strength or resistance to high temperatures is required low price, Cink Steel - the best choice.

In particular, it is an ideal material for connection from the heating main to a private house.

Copper

pros

• This material, in the absence of disasters (a meteorite falling on a house, World War III or a serious family quarrel), is practically eternal. The oldest copper water lines are over a century old and in excellent condition.
• Working temperature. It is limited above by a value of 250 C. This means that the pipes will survive not only the peak of water temperature; they will also withstand superheated steam.
• Resistance to moisture and chemicals active substances. The pipe will not rust or dissolve.

Minuses

• Price. This is the most expensive of all materials.
• Installation is tedious and requires considerable physical strength; It also requires a special tool.

Metal-plastic

pros

• Easy assembly;
• Reasonable price for pipes and fittings;
• Careful appearance.

Minuses

There is actually only one serious drawback, but a very significant one: leaks at the fittings. After several dozen heating-cooling cycles, the connections begin to leak. Because of this, it is better to make them available for maintenance.

Polypropylene

pros

• Quick installation that does not require special skills;
• Extremely reliable and mechanically strong connections;
• Cheap material and fittings;
• Light weight is important both during transportation and when attaching the water supply to light partitions.

Minuses

• Unreinforced polypropylene expands greatly when heated;
• Connections with fittings are non-separable;
• Installation requires special tools

Reinforced polypropylene does not have the first drawback - pipes in which one of the layers is aluminum foil or fiberglass. In addition, it can withstand significantly higher water pressure.

Comparison results

Based on the totality of all their properties, reinforced polypropylene pipes are clearly the best choice. All other things being equal, it is better to choose a fiberglass-reinforced pipe: it does not require stripping during installation and does not delaminate. But more on that later.

How to change

So, we settled on reinforced polypropylene. Replacing pipes in an apartment with your own hands, stage by stage, looks like this:

Dismantling the old water supply

1. We turn off and reset the water supply risers;
2. We disassemble the threads or, which is simpler, we cut the old water supply from the valves and beyond with a turbine;
3. Carefully, without much effort or distortion, unscrew the valves.

Tip: with old screw valves it is often more convenient to first completely unscrew the head with the wing and the stem.

In this case, you will not need to gouge out a piece of the wall to unscrew the valve.

Be prepared, if necessary, to anneal the threads using a gas can with a nozzle or blowtorch; When you begin to unscrew the valve, be sure to hold it with a second gas wrench.

Otherwise, there is a risk of breaking off the thread on the steel pipe coming from the riser.

Cleaning an old pipe

The section of pipe up to the valve is almost always completely or partially clogged with slag and sand. In cold water, corrosion and salt deposits turn debris into hard build-up inside the pipe.

Judging by the absence of deposits on top, it is galvanized. However, as you can see, it also needs to be cleaned.

Cleaning the pipe before installing valves is a mandatory operation. To do this, you can use a thin steel string (drapes were hung on these during Joseph Kobzon’s youth) or, if the riser is close, an ordinary screwdriver.

If you have to use a string, make a handle on one side of it, like the one on a well gate, and on the other, a hook the size of a match head. You will have to clean problem areas by rotating the handle while feeding the string.

Valves and filters

The new valve sits on the old thread with a winding made of plumbing flax impregnated with paint.

Tip: to avoid getting your hands dirty, wind one turn of flax, brush paint on opposite sides of the thread, and then wind the rest of the winding.

Don't forget to line it with plastic or folded newspaper. At least one drop will fall on the floor.

Next we install the filter, then the adapter fitting from thread to polypropylene.

It is advisable to place the filter so that the settling barrel is directed downwards. Otherwise, slag and scale will accumulate anywhere but in it.

Of the valves, it is better to choose modern ball valves, which shut off the water by turning the handle or flag 90 degrees.

Installation of polypropylene

1. We select a soldering iron nozzle that matches the diameter of the pipe and fittings. By the way, for home water supply the optimal diameter is 20 mm, which is also the cheapest.
2. We remove the outer chamfer from the pipe.
3. We must clean a reinforced pipe with aluminum foil: even if a layer of aluminum is glued between layers of polypropylene, when the aluminum comes into contact with water, the pipe may begin to delaminate after a short time. Electrochemical processes in aluminum in the presence of an electrolyte and low currents are to blame.
4. We insert one side of the nozzle into the fitting, and put the other on the pipe.
5. Let the plastic melt.
6. Insert the pipe into the fitting and hold for a few seconds.

Conclusion

And it's really not difficult, right? Don’t forget: turn it on, opening the valves only partially, after which we carefully inspect the water supply, all threads and connections to the faucets for leaks.

In this article, together with the reader, we will try to figure out why it is necessary to replace water pipes in an apartment and how you can do it yourself.

Motivation

Clogged pipes

Over time, steel pipes without anti-corrosion coating inevitably become overgrown. First of all, this concerns cold water. Inevitable sand, scale, slag and deposits of mineral salts over several years form a solid substance inside the pipe that interferes with the flow of water.

Of course, you can disassemble the water supply and clean the pipes with a special thin cable. However, this will be a half-measure: in a few years the procedure will have to be repeated again.

In addition, since the late eighties, builders have used thin-walled pipes in many typical apartment buildings. For reasons of economy, of course. When dismantled, such water pipes literally crumble in your hands after 20-25 years.

Numerous leaks

Seamless pipes often begin to leak at several points along one seam. With a minimum time interval. After you call a welder for the fifth time, the desire will inevitably arise not to deal with the consequences, but to eliminate the problem once and for all.

Appearance

Untidy ones with streaks of rust and years of paint deposits are simply unsightly. To hide them in a box means to look for adventures on your... back. All communications must be accessible - this is Golden Rule an experienced plumber.

At the same time, replacing the water supply pipes with modern ones will make its appearance neat and presentable.

Advice: if for some reason you have to hide communications under the decor, make it collapsible. It’s better to put a little more effort into repairs than to then destroy expensive tiles with a sledgehammer and curse.

Material selection

What can the modern market offer us? Let's take a look at your nearest store to review popular modern materials.

Steel pipes

Throw it away and forget it like a bad dream. We are changing the water supply precisely because they did not live up to our expectations.

Zinc coated steel pipes

It's already warmer. Galvanization does not rust or overgrow. Unlike. Against it there is only a relatively complex assembly. If you do not have a welding machine or lathe, the only way to assemble a galvanized water supply yourself is to cut the threads by hand and assemble the structure using couplings and corners.

This means that we will have to buy dies and keys, which are not cheap. In addition, it requires a certain skill and great physical strength.

Metal-plastic

Beautiful appearance. Neat shiny fittings. A good choice for a summer house where minor leaks are not a problem. There is, perhaps, only one contraindication to the use of metal-plastic pipes in an apartment.

After several heating and cooling cycles, they often begin to leak at the fittings, and the union nuts have to be tightened. If you choose metal-plastic, it is especially important to leave the fittings accessible.

Polypropylene

Among modern materials for plumbing, it is the clear champion. There is only one inconvenience: the connections are not removable. The fact is that the pipes are not connected to each other, but are welded with a special soldering iron. However, the procedure is simple, and the soldering iron itself is very inexpensive. If you need to change the configuration of the water supply, you can always cut it off and weld it again.

Otherwise this is perfect material. It does not overgrow from the inside, does not rust and does not lose its qualities over the entire reasonable temperature range. The connections never leak and withstand very significant mechanical loads, no different in strength from a solid pipe.

Buying fittings for any connections and adapters for any threads is not a problem now. A person puzzled by how to change water pipes can safely opt for polypropylene.

Embodiment

Installation of water shut-off valves

If the water supply runs from the foundation of the house, most likely the valves have also become unusable. And even if they still shut off the water, it is better to replace the old screw valves with modern ball valves that shut off the water by turning a flag or handle.

The new valves are both more beautiful and much more reliable, and do not have many of the problems of their predecessors, such as valves coming off.

• To replace the valves, we will need to turn off the cold and hot water.
  People who know well how the water is turned off and the condition of the valves on the risers, and at the same time the risers themselves, hardly need our advice. For everyone else -

advice: to replace the valves, call a plumber, and officially, with the registration of the application at the housing office.

In this case, no one will turn on the water in the basement when your plumbing is dismantled. In addition, when dismantling an old valve, a thread that breaks off on the side of the riser is a common occurrence.

It's better not to let this become your problem entirely. If necessary, a mechanic will be able to invite a welder, but for you this is not always realistic.

But from the valves you can already dance on your own. Further replacement of water pipes will not cause problems for any adult.

Filters

• Regardless of what type of faucets you choose, installing filters after the valves is a mandatory procedure.
  Scale, slag and sand kill ceramic taps at a time, but even with conventional taps with rubber gaskets, a clogged filter on the faucet spout will not please you.
  And cleaning the fittings of the toilet tank over and over again is also tedious - there is a small gap for water and is easily clogged with any debris.
• Choose the simplest coarse filters. Don’t be fooled by the seller’s stories about the delights of expensive Italian fittings.
  Inside the filter there should be a stainless steel mesh and a small settling tank in which slag accumulates. The rest is from the evil one.

Tip: filters are always mounted with the removable lid (barrel) down. Otherwise, slag will remain anywhere but where it should go.

The lower filter is installed correctly, but the upper one is not

Assembly of threaded connections

• The filter to the valve and the first polypropylene fitting to the filter are attached to the threads. Most likely, the thread is also used when installing a faucet in the bathroom. If you don’t want to remember that threads can flow, don’t reinvent the wheel, use the old-fashioned method.
  Screw a roll of flax onto the thread (winding is sold at any plumbing store), brush it with drying oil or any paint, and then wind the rest of the flax along the thread and assemble the threaded connection. Don’t be afraid to overdo it with paint: the excess will squeeze out, unless you get dirty.

Polypropylene compound

• The main part of assembling a water supply system is no more difficult than assembling a model from a children's construction set. We select a soldering iron nozzle, heat the fitting and pipe on it at the same time and insert one into the other.
  Half a minute - and the connection is ready. In order to fix the pipe on the wall, we use special plastic fasteners.

The horrors of renovation are behind us

Here, in brief, are all the tricks on how to replace a plumbing system. As you can see, nothing complicated. Replacing water pipes in an apartment with your own hands does not require supernatural skills or expensive tools. You just need a little time and a very small amount of money.

The old water supply in the apartment has rotted. Sweat on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water and then turn it on again - rust pours out of the taps. And there are plans to renovate the kitchen and bathroom, and the old pipes are scary to look at, let alone touch or breathe. It needs to be changed, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment water supply with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits or registrations. You will only need to negotiate with the DEZ mechanic to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; Most likely, you will be able to handle it in about 10 minutes. Or warn your neighbors, if not harmful, and shut it off/restart it yourself.

Replacement procedure

Replacement of the water supply system is carried out in a certain sequence. Work “by eye” and “as you go” when done unprofessionally often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

1. Selection of material for new pipes.
2. Selecting a hot and cold water distribution scheme.
3. Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
4. Calculation of pipe diameter according to the selected material and design.
5. Preparing the installation tool.
6. Purchase of materials.
7. Assembling sampling and accounting units, installing them on risers and registering.
8. Dismantling old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
9. Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
10. Connecting a flask filter (required with HMS).
11. Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
12. Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
13. Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
14. Installation and connection of the boiler.

GMS, flask filter and aquastop

The HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, transforms impurities in water into a thin suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply or maintenance during operation, but it does require the installation of an antimagnetic water meter (these are more expensive) and, following the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first collects sludge, the second removes chlorine, and the third carries out fine water purification and softening. The latter (no one drinks tap water for a long time) is especially important for the boiler of a washing machine.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - don’t be indignant, but drinking water remains firmly in the top ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs capable of bringing its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not expected. In general, saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply or maintenance, but its function is different. When there is a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. Aquastops come in different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an antimagnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new water supply system in an apartment begins with the selection of pipes. Steel has outlived its usefulness in everyday life, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and soldered copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most critical - the wrong choice will negate all efforts, expenses and troubles.

Copper

One thing you can say right away about copper water pipes is that their promoters don’t know what they’re talking about. Or they know, but don’t set it for themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, humans need copper, but in insignificant quantities in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper and chlorine form a protective film from water. Absurd for anyone who even remembers school chemistry.

Secondly, copper solder contains tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into another, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, friable powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly yourself.

Metal-plastic

Metallo plastic pipes quite expensive, but you can connect them with your own hands without experience. Metal-plastic water supply is assembled on special threaded units with gaskets or crimp fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure losses in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert the pipe into the fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press pliers and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, the work is easy, and using improvised means is a complete guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time the joint begins to drip. Therefore, it is unacceptable to bury metal-plastic in walls, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in grooves.

It is recommended to install metal-plastic plumbing in separate areas. open areas, where minimal resistance to water flow and the ability to simply and quickly reassemble the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment water supply has now become a standard, but there are different plastics. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Maintains temperature up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Quite expensive. Used for installing heated floors.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water supply you need polyethylene reinforced pipes; ordinary polyethylene no longer holds 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so there is still the possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the least of all.

It seems that polyethylene pipes are bad for everyone, but they have an advantage that can be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice plug bursts them apart, and when it melts, they shrink again and don’t burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of polyethylene water supply is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground areas. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is necessary.

PVC

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are quite well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very durable and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, are more fragile than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC, of ​​course, is more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: by heating the joint with a household hairdryer, the joint can be pulled apart and then glued back together. In general, this is a budget option or for a novice craftsman with the length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest water collection point not exceeding 10 m and with no more than 7 collection points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying residential water supply pipes with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, correctly soldered holds up to 12 at. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but still the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. There are only two disadvantages to doing it yourself:

• It does not glue, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
• It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. A tile walled up in a wall or hidden in a groove can bend and break, so when laying each pipe you need to put on a stocking made of Merylon or synthetic padding, which makes the work more expensive.

However, today the propylene pipeline is the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten.

Therefore, we will dwell on the soldering of propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in lower temperatures (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Soldering propylene

1. Soldering done end-to-end with a homemade soldering iron (iron) (see figure on the right) is unacceptable:
2. Contaminants accumulate on the “sausage” inside, and a pipeline assembled in this way is more susceptible to clogging than a steel one.

The water pressure, pushing the pipes apart, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is exceeded, and the joint leaks.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out using fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), corners, tees, and crosses. The pipe, heated to the point of softening, is inserted into the ferrule of the also heated fitting, and the joint hardens. In this case, the water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the holder from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing is left to the fused zone. The rather high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clamp enclosing the pipe to expand elastically. It is this connection design, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for walling into walls for decades. Note:

• a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is not suitable for anything else, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, there is no need to buy it; it is better to rent it. For hidden wiring in typical apartment
• in grooves or embedded – definitely propylene. For long branches with large quantities
• water collection points - metal-plastic, open or in channels with removable covers. For country houses , seasonal housing for rent, country houses
• water collection points - metal-plastic, open or in channels with removable covers. with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. – polyethylene. budget renovation or in areas with water shortage, low pressure in the water supply, with water Bad quality

– PVC.

Wiring diagram

Comb collectors

In this case, water collection is done according to a parallel circuit from the “comb” collector, see Fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its own disassembly point. Valves regulate pressure separately at points. The branches on the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in one piece they are quite reliable.

Development of a water collection scheme

You need a water supply diagram in an apartment first of all for yourself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules is a serious job for a knowledgeable specialist; for example, in the large picture there is a water supply diagram for a private house with a summer kitchen, which is necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace pipes in an apartment, you don’t need to bother so much; it’s enough that the diagram is clearly visible and understandable:

1. Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
2. Metering devices.
3. Emergency valves and drains.
4. Shut-off valves.
5. Parsing points indicating consumers.
6. Backup branches and devices.
7. Direction of water flow.

In order for all this to be clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be followed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see Fig. On the left - more or less ok, but with some comments, on the right - incorrect:

• The diagram on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of ​​​​the real location of the analysis points: the washing machine and the boiler come out under the floor.
• There are also too many arrows indicating current where it is already clear where the flow is, which also confuses the diagram.
• In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted unclearly and not according to the rules.
• There, the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
• In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the low tide?
• But in the diagram on the left, it is clear even to a non-specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup one. The comment will be: “Where is the check valve when it’s hot? Without it, when the supply stops, the boiler will drive itself into a hot riser if valve (10) is not closed.” But this is essentially the case and with full understanding.

Correct simplified diagram of plumbing in an apartment

An example of an arbitrary, not according to the rules for drawing up design documentation, but a completely clear and no-nonsense water collection scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of parallel water withdrawal; where the combs are, it’s clear.

Pipe calculation

Before you finally select the pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not needed for “smartness” - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, too small a diameter of the water supply pipe will cause turbulence of the flow in it. Wherein throughput the pipe drops sharply, and at normal pressure at the inlet the tap will barely ooze.

Accurate calculation of the pipeline is a matter for highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, so that it flows normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is:

1. The minimum permissible pressure is 0.3 at.
2. Pressure loss per 1 m of 16 mm propylene pipe – 0.05 at.
3. The average pressure loss per unit of fittings and fittings for apartment wiring is 0.15 at.
4. Pressure loss in the sampling and metering unit – 0.25 at.
5. At normal pressure values ​​at the entrance to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm in a 12 mm pipe, periodic turbulization is inevitable, but in 16 mm pipes it is not observed.
6. The headroom for the farthest point is at least twofold.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with sequential wiring, such a popular pipe will have enough pressure for the farthest tap or whether you will have to take a wider and more expensive one. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from a pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate the neighbors based on the same 0.6 atm/floor: if, say, three floors up, the taps are still flowing, then we have a good 2 atm. But in high-rise buildings this trick does not work: in order not to increase the cost of apartment wiring excessively, they make separate risers for the lower and upper floors and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: second floor of a nine-story building; Residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 atm of pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm losses. This is too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take a main pipe of 20-25 mm, or route it in a parallel pattern from the comb, otherwise you may remain “dry” in the dry summer weather.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out using fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), corners, tees, and crosses. The pipe, heated to the point of softening, is inserted into the ferrule of the also heated fitting, and the joint hardens. In this case, the water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the holder from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing is left to the fused zone. The rather high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clamp enclosing the pipe to expand elastically. It is this connection design, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for walling into walls for decades. from here it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable it is to lengthen them and clutter them with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is nonlinear: they depend on the flow speed, which, in turn, depends on the cross-section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe sharply reduces losses, so the usual wiring for apartments with a 20 mm pipe with bends to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage systems of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that in this regard there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) " The correct one is the latest SNiP.

Tools, materials, dismantling old

Special tools for assembling residential pipelines are described above. To purchase materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity locally. Dismantling old pipes is done in the usual ways. It is better to do this after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not use valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you urgently need to close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. The round, grooved handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slip on them.

Accounting and control

The sampling and metering unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each device indicates the direction of water flow for it; it must be observed during assembly.

The unit is assembled with waterproofing of the connections using FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having first shut off the water; Before supplying water, you must remember to close the shut-off valve. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, that requires turning off the water supply to the neighbors on the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. Meter readings must be clearly readable without any additional operations (removing the hatch, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble part of a solid pipeline, sometimes in a rather bizarre configuration, to connect the metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transition couplings from plastic to metal MPV - an internal threaded coupling. The plastic is connected to the metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

Meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water according to consumption. The factory seal is there (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one can get into the meter and twist or file anything there. The factory seal must be protected; Without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

To install water meters, you need to notify the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives; the inspector does not need zero readings; he will record the initial ones and seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water according to consumption will be made after registration of metering devices.

GMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow water to be stolen with its help, and this device is not subject to sealing, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter’s turbine can become clogged with sludge. The HMS with a bulb filter is connected after the metering devices; filter - immediately after the GMS. Aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but there is no point in placing the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: overview of layout options for water supply elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we're doing the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has features of a non-construction nature, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should extend no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before pipe laying begins.

First of all, you need to install arcs - plastic strips with MPB angles under the mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws and dowels. When fastening, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without extensive construction experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet pipes flush with the wall. It is better to make them in advance PROTECTING above the finished wall by half the width of the side decorative caps mixer: if the caps are not adjustable, they can be adjusted without much difficulty on an emery wheel or manually on an emery block.

The next point is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble them on a table and place them entirely in grooves. But then the question arises: how to install pipes through the walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all made of detachable fittings, and for brazed pipes two methods can be proposed:

• Using MPH/MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the grooves you can make removable hatches for inspection and repair of threaded connections.
• Install pipelines locally. For this you need a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work with cotton gloves so as not to accidentally get burned.

The fourth point is soldering. One soldering requires 15 mm of pipe. That is, if there is exactly 1 m between two fittings, you need to cut 1030 mm; if 0.6 m - 630 mm, etc.

The fifth point is bending metal-plastic pipes. The minimum permissible bending radius is 5 outer diameters of the pipe. You can come across recommendations: they say, put a spring in there, fill it with sand, and you can bend it at an angle, and pull out the spring and pick out the sand with a wire hook. In no case: the coating of the pipe deteriorates, the residual stresses in it far exceed the permissible ones, and the metal-plastic pipe acquires the properties of a very poor, rusted steel pipe.

And finally... This is a separate production cycle, and it is done after the water supply system is put into operation. The pipes for the boiler are made in advance, but the valves on them (they are definitely needed on both) are closed immediately after installing the pipes, and the pipes are additionally plugged.

Video: example of an installed water supply system

Bottom line

Now you know how to make your own plumbing. Let us emphasize that this work is not difficult or difficult, but it does not tolerate negligence or hackwork.

Replacing pipes inside an apartment or house must be approached with the utmost seriousness. Even if you have experience in installing water supply, heating, and sewerage systems, each new object always has its own unique features.

Replacing water pipes in an apartment with your own hands is within the capabilities of anyone, however, this task is far from being as simple as it seems. Let's look at the nuances together.

Exists four main types of pipe, which is installed inside the apartment.

Pipes are:

1. Steel, galvanized, cast iron.
2. Copper.
3. Metal-plastic.
4. Polypropylene, PVC.

Each material has its pros and cons. Let's look at them.

Steel, galvanized pipes

Steel pipes came to us from the last century. There were simply no pipes made from artificial materials.

So we had to install heavy steel pipes, cutting threads, using welding and a torch. The plumbers of that time were very physically developed people.

Advantages of steel pipes:

• Reliability. Such pipes are connected using a threaded or welded method, and the connection becomes monolithic.
• Strength. Steel pipe quite durable.

But the disadvantages of such a pipe still outweigh the advantages:

• Fragility. Maximum 20 years, and the pipe must be replaced, because... from the inside it becomes impassable.

• Heavy installation, special equipment and tools. Not everyone has the skills to cut a thread or weld a seam. The connections must be laid with tow and lubricated with sealant. In general, it's quite troublesome.
• It's difficult to crash into a pipe. Again, equipment and skills are required.

That is why the most common type plumbing work is replacing metal pipes with plastic ones.

The same pros/cons occur with a galvanized pipe, with the difference that its service life is slightly longer. But installation is more troublesome, so it’s better to invite professionals.

Copper pipes

Previously they were considered elite, when there were no plastic pipelines yet.

Copper has a number of positive properties for which it continues to be praised to this day:

• The antibacterial effect of copper is well known, which is the main reason for its use.
• Thermal conductivity. Copper is an excellent heat transfer agent, allowing it to operate over a very wide temperature range, especially in the refrigeration industry. Copper does not become brittle when low temperatures.
• Reliability and aesthetics. Copper withstands high pressure, its linear expansion is minimal, i.e. it does not “play” when temperatures change.
• Copper is a natural, environmentally friendly material.

Among the minuses, we highlight the following:

• The high cost of the pipe, since copper is a rather expensive material.
• Installation requires professional skills. Copper is crimped with a press or soldered by capillary welding. In both cases, it is better to use the services of specialists.
• There may be “stray” currents in the copper pipeline circuit, so it is better to entrust the installation diagram to a specialist.

Copper pipe is produced in coils and in straight sections, it depends on the diameter of the pipe. Therefore, if you want to quickly and permanently replace the pipes in your apartment, you can easily use the copper option, but be sure to involve professionals.

Metal-plastic pipes

This is the most common option today. This is explained simply - very easy and affordable installation, plus the inexpensive cost of materials. It turns out to be a kind of budget-home option.

Such a pipe is a five-layer structure in which the outer and inner polyethylene layers are glued to an aluminum layer with adhesive layers. The result is a kind of sandwich that is easy to bend and assemble.

Advantages of a metal-plastic pipe:

• Easy to assemble. Repairing pipes in an apartment is like putting together a children's construction set.
• Pipeline cost. This is the most economical method of piping.
• Savings on workers' compensation. The amount saved is quite significant. You yourself are quite capable of assembling the entire pipe at the proper level, unless you change the valves at the entrance to the apartment with the help of professionals.
• You can always cut into a finished pipeline, and it won’t take much time.

• Over time, the connections will become loose and will need to be tightened. Therefore, such a pipe can only be hidden in the floor or in the walls if it is installed using press equipment.
• Quite low reliability. Connections may begin to leak as a result of water hammer or big difference temperatures

Advice: when choosing a pipe, make sure that it does not flake and is seamless. Otherwise, you won’t have any hassle during installation.

There are a number of nuances in how to properly connect metal-plastic pipes:

1. Cut the pipe with special scissors, which you hold strictly perpendicular to the pipe. Otherwise, an uneven cut will cause problems when tightening the fitting nut.

1. Calibrate the edge of the pipe with the nut and ring on to ensure an even calibration without distortion.

1. Use a spring-loaded pipe bender whenever possible. A metal-plastic pipe bends very easily, but if the bend is significant, it can simply “fold”.

This will save you on fittings and reduce the number of connections.

These pipes are gaining popularity in the segment of indoor plumbing, heating and sewerage. The reason for the growing popularity as connections of such a water supply when.

To connect PP pipes, a special soldering iron is used, which heats the pipe and fitting evenly to a temperature of 260 degrees and then the products are simply connected.

Diffusion welding occurs, i.e. penetration of particles from one part of a product into another (diffusion).

Often, replacing heating pipes in an apartment is carried out using polypropylene pipes.

They are produced in a wide range of types, which divides the pipe according to temperature purpose.

We list the types of polypropylene pipes and their purpose:

1. PN-10. The simplest polypropylene pipe. Used only for cold water supply.

1. PN-20. Universal pipe. Can be used for both cold and hot water supply.

Important! Polypropylene is a material that greatly changes volume depending on temperature. For example, if the temperature changes by 100 degrees, a 10 m long pipe will become 15 cm longer!

This is a lot, so to avoid pipe ruptures for heating and hot water supply, use a special reinforced pipe.

1. PN-25. Reinforced pipe used for any water supply and heating.

There are three types of reinforcement:

• External reinforcement with foil. Such a pipe must be cleared of foil to the soldering depth, otherwise the connection will not work.

• Internal fiberglass reinforcement.

• Internal reinforcement with foil.

This version of the pipe can also have a polyethylene layer instead of the inner PP layer, which somewhat improves the temperature characteristics of the pipe as a whole.

Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment with polypropylene pipes also has its positive and negative sides.

• Very reliable connection. At making the right choice type of pipe, the water supply system as a whole is practically not deformed as a result of temperature changes. The connection point does not leak.
• Polypropylene is easily cut using special scissors, as in the example of a metal-plastic pipe, the edges are easily processed.
• After a little practice, the process of soldering pipes is not difficult; this work is accessible to almost everyone.

• The pipes are somewhat bulky, since they have rather large wall thicknesses.
• Pipe rigidity and dimensions must be carefully adjusted.
• If the section of pipe and fitting heated with a soldering iron is not immediately connected, then it will no longer be possible to reheat it due to structural changes in the material. Just take a new piece of pipe and a new fitting.

Advice: take the pipe and fitting with a reserve for unforeseen circumstances, with an agreement to return the remaining unused parts back to the store. Sellers do this without any problems.

Advice: if you install a polypropylene water supply system, replacing water pipes will not cause you any significant difficulties. In addition to the pipe and fitting, you will also have to purchase some tools that will always come in handy, but we do not recommend purchasing a special soldering iron. The thing is quite expensive and can only be used in soldering polypropylene pipes. Although, if you plan to do installation on an ongoing basis, then it’s a different matter.

For heating, use only reinforced pipes, and fiberglass reinforcement is preferable. Such a pipe practically does not “play” due to temperature changes.

Also produced from polypropylene sewer pipe. It looks very aesthetically pleasing, although it is made of polypropylene and is recommended only for the internal sewer system.

If, after reading this article, you still do not decide to carry out the work of replacing the pipeline yourself, then, at least, you will already be able to properly monitor the implementation of this work by the builders. Well, write an application for replacement of pipes to the installation organization, agree with the workers on the completeness, draw up a plan and start repairing. Everything will work out.