Metal is a rough material. To turn it into a delicate flower requires a special talent of the master who works with it. In this master class we will show you how to make a flower out of metal with your own hands. The result of your work will be a beautiful and elegant feces.

Materials

To work you will need:

• thin sheets of metal;
• metal rods or rods with a diameter of 6 mm;
• white, green and yellow paint;
• primer for metal;
• marker;
• paper;
• metal scissors;
• stationery scissors;
• welding machine;
• hammer;
• anvil;
• nozzle for grinding metal;
• grinder or hacksaw;
• vice.

Step 1. You will need to transfer the template of the stool leaf onto the metal sheet. First, you can draw it on a sheet of paper yourself or print the outline by downloading and scaling the outline picture from the Internet. Use a marker to redraw.

Cut the blanks with metal scissors. Sand edges if necessary.

Step 2. The steel rods will need to be cut into small pieces, approximately 45 cm long. Use a grinder as a cutting tool. Don't forget about protective gloves and a mask.

Step 3. The rod will act as both a pistil and a stem at the same time. To give it a realistic look, one of the ends will have to be processed. Using a hammer, vice and anvil, make several bends on it.

Step 5. Start forming the flower. To do this, thoroughly heat the cut piece of metal sheet with a blowtorch.

Under the influence of temperature, the metal will soften, and it will be possible to work with it. IN ideal It is better to heat it in the oven; if you do not have such equipment, make do with improvised tools.

Use pliers to bend the sheet. Try to bring the diameter of the lower part of the flower closer to the parameters of the rod.

Step 6. Place the rod in a vice and place the flower on it so that the rounded part is inside.

Step 7. Weld the elements together.

Step 8. While the flower blank is in a vice, using blowtorch and pliers give its petal a realistic shape.

Step 9. Using a sanding disc, sand down the welds on the flower. Additionally, you can go over the resulting workpiece with a metal brush or just sandpaper.

Step 10. Apply metal primer to the flower.

Today we will tell you how to make a rose from metal with your own hands.

Hello readers!

In this article I want to tell you how you can make beautiful roses made of metal! (Video of the process at the end of the article)
For motivation, at the end of the article I will show you my first rose and the one I made just recently. Along the way, I will talk about my observations and those things that I did not understand right away, but they significantly improved appearance flowers.
And also at the end I will place a block with frequently asked questions that you might have while reading.

And so, let's go!

Materials required for making roses from metal:

• I make my roses from cold-rolled black metal sheets 0.5 mm thick;
• For stems I use smooth A1 reinforcement and 6 mm binding wire. diameter for forging stems with spikes and texture. For simpler options, 5 mm binding wire is quite suitable.

Equipment and tools necessary for making roses from metal:

• welding machine (in fact, if you are smart, you can do without welding machine, but that will be another story.);
• Bulgarian;
• metal scissors;
• needle nose pliers;
• pliers;
• felt-tip pen / scriber.

You, as a DIY master, can completely do without one or the other: an angle grinder can replace scissors, pliers can replace thin-nosed pliers. The only difference will be in the labor intensity of some processes.

And since we have discussed the instrument and I touched on the topic of improvisation, I will add that in fact this article is not a panacea, not strict instructions. This is a motivation letter with a description technological features! The most important thing when working with a metal rose flower is not to try to replicate me or yourself. Be more relaxed. Let your movements in your work be even slightly careless, let the petals be crooked, and the bends be of different widths. It is these movements that will breathe life into your flower!

My rosebuds consist of the following number of plates with petals:

• outer first leaf - 5 rose petals, circle diameter about 12 cm;
• second leaf - 4 rose petals, slightly smaller in diameter, about 11 -11.5 cm;
• third leaf - 4 rose petals, diameter 11-11.5 cm;
• fourth leaf - 3 rose petals, diameter 10.5 cm;
• fifth leaf - 4 rose petals, narrow like a propeller and about 9-10 cm in diameter;
• five-leaf star - it will serve as a leaf with outside. Diameter 8-9 cm.

Metal rose leaves look like this:

• For one flower I prepare 2-4 branches of leaves, 2-4 leaves on each. Most often I use 2 branches of 3 leaves. Some average number so that the flower is not empty and does not seem like a whole bush. Again, decide for yourself, try it on, try it.

Forged metal rose stem:

• On average, I take the stem length to be about 50 cm. This makes the flower quite large and beautiful in the end with the size of the bud that I wrote above.

I also made flowers of 30 cm and 60 cm. This is the beauty of working with metal. We have a lot of options for you.

Let's start making a rose from metal.

• First of all, I usually mark out squares for future rosebud petals. I make 3 squares 12x12 cm and 3 squares 10x10 cm. To make it easier to drill a pack of similar shapes later.
• After cutting out these squares, I stack them and mark the center. After which I drill all the workpieces at once to 6-7 mm. Ok, drilled. Since I make quite a lot of flowers, I have ready-made templates so that I don’t have to mark the sides of the petals every time; this is especially tedious when working with cinquefoil.
• I trace the outline and start cutting. I don’t particularly try to get into the line; in the finishing process, all the curvature of the rose petals will turn into their beauty.
  On personal experience I can say that it is most convenient to first cut out a circle along the outlined contour, then you should cut out one side of the rose petals from the outside to the center. Then turn the workpiece over and cut the remaining sides in the same position. You will immediately understand what I mean when you try to cut the blank along the contour without turning the sheet over. At first it will be inconvenient, because there is no marked outline on the back side. But your hand will get used to it. Mine is used to it.
• Well, the rose petals are cut out. Now let's take on the leaves. I always draw them by hand, since symmetry is not needed there, and I also cut them along the contour with scissors.
  I will also note here that do not be afraid to bend the metal in your hands when you follow the cut contour with scissors; later we will straighten everything out before further work.

I like to get everything ready first and then start assembling and welding as the final step. Therefore, I also cut the stem to the required length, warm it in different ways: welding, simple. I've tried it all. Everything works. And I give texture to the rose stem. I crush him mercilessly! After this processing, the rose stem turns out to be of any shape with an interesting pattern. If you continue to bother, you can weld spikes by simply fusing small bumps and processing them with a grinder.
I use petal circles for this job. I clamp the grinder in a vice and rotate the stem with my hands. In this way it is possible to sharpen the spikes to a sharp state.

To add texture to the metal rosebud, I use a makeshift anvil that I score with the sharp end of a hammer. So I just put the petal on the anvil and tap the back side with a rounded hammer. The texture is perfectly transferred from the anvil to the petals.

I make a notch on the leaves with a chisel and use thin-nose pliers to twist the rose stems into a tube. Many blacksmiths make welded leaves in their practice. The version that we make with you turns out to be more sophisticated and prettier, more lively.

Time to assemble the finished metal rose!

I clamp the rose stem in a vice so that the tip barely rises. And, following the sequence, I assemble the bud, welding each layer through a drilled hole to the stem and the previous layer of petals:

• first I lay out the star-leaf;
• then cinquefoil;
• large quatrefoil;
• large quatrefoil;
• trefoil;
• propeller leaf.

Do you feel like you've almost made a flower? Yes, that's right! All you have to do is play with the shape of the bud and everything will be finished.

One by one, fold the first leaf on top and use thin-nose pliers to bend the edges. Then we bend the trefoil and also bend the edges with thin-nosed pliers. And so on... Don't get hung up on one form. Try it, even if you like the rose flower in the form that is in front of you now. Believe me, there are a lot of interesting shapes. They suit different colors and occasions differently.

Metal rose bud on a stem. All that remains is to add the leaves. Add to taste; it’s impossible to overdo it or underdo it. You are an artist. You know better =)

Often I am asked to paint flowers in classic colors: red bud and green stem. We should not forget that in an attempt to catch up with nature, we can only show the shortcomings of a flower in front of the uniqueness of a living one. It's up to you, but now I've finally given up on painting. I try to highlight the graceful appearance of the metal by displaying it. Sometimes I brass the protruding parts. It turns out to be a very beautiful expensive vintage flower. And if it is practically impossible to give a living flower any shape, then look what you can do with our metal roses, which we made with our own hands!
(only a small part of my options for performing work)

Answers to questions asked:

1. Why don't I take 2 or 3 mm. ?
   Many blacksmiths always take on thick metal, belittling the dignity of thin metal. Any execution option has a place to be. But thin metal is both lighter and easier to work with, and therefore, at a minimum, it is easier to learn from it.
2. Why tie wire (heat treated)?
   It can be given texture without heating, since it is much softer than simple steel reinforcement.
3. Why is it important to make the outer leaf of a rose with 5 petals?
   The more outer petals on a leaf, the rounder the rose bud will be. With four petals, the bud turns out to be square. More than 5 - it will no longer look like a rose.
4. How to cover a metal rose with brass with your own hands?
   There is a little trick for which we need a brass drill brush.
   We heat the metal a little and start working on it with a brush. Brass transfers very well to metal and coats it with a quality brass layer. The more you heat the metal before brushing, the yellower the brass will be. Don't overdo it, or you'll burn it.

All photos and video materials from this article were taken by me, as well as the flowers in them.

] in the form of flowers and plant figures requires mastery of several types of tools and welding skills. How to make a rose from iron with your own hands? - step by step instructions with photos and videos in this article.

Making a rose from metal with your own hands does not require precise measurements and complex drawings. This is a decorative element in which inaccuracies and discrepancies only add natural beauty to the finished product. Therefore, it is more important to choose the right material and tools - there will be several operations. Least of all it will be forging, although it is customary to call such a product a forged flower or a forged rose.

Materials, templates and tools

Metal flowers can be easily made from a cold-rolled sheet of steel or fragments of a car body - the hood and wings. Full list materials will be like this:

• sheet metal with a thickness of 0.3 to 0.8 mm - thinner ones can be burned through [ ], thicker will resist processing more strongly;

• reinforcing bars 8 - 10 mm or knitting wire - about half a meter long per flower;

• welding machine or autogen, or even better, both options;

• light and heavy hammers, pliers and needle nose pliers;

• well, a drill, an angle grinder for those who know how to handle it when cutting thin metal into rounded templates.

This is quite enough to make your own rose or flowers from sheet metal in a home workshop. As for templates and drawings, they can be easily made from cardboard and even paper, simply by drawing the contours.

Preparing metal rose templates

We repeat - accuracy is not required here; on the contrary, it will do harm. It is enough to draw 4-5 drop-shaped sectors on the metal, but so that they completely converge about a centimeter from the center. There will be a hole there, and it is in this part that you will need to grab the workpiece to the rod. Select the size of the petals so that you can then twist the metal and give it shape without much effort.

For greater credibility, one of the templates should look like a four-rayed star - it will be located at the very bottom, under the flower.

Cutting blanks with petals

You can start working by making blanks for the petals or a rod for the stem of the flower. To make the product look natural, it is worth giving the knitting wire several characteristic kinks. Very important! - in the upper part of the future stem you need to leave a straight section of 20 centimeters, onto which the petal blanks will be planted.

Blanks of metal petals for forged roses

Next, we make blanks for cups with flower petals using simple or methods. To do this, we take metal squares with a side of 80 - 90 - 100 - 110 cm (depending on the number of layers in the bud). We transfer the templates onto them and immediately make a central hole - this way it will turn out exactly in the middle, without displacement. The diameter of the hole should be selected so that the workpiece fits tightly onto the rod. Now you need to cut out the blanks using metal scissors or a grinder, without trying to make them perfectly even along the marking line. A real flower's petals are never perfect.

Assembling metal flowers and bending petals

You can proceed further in two ways. The first one is for those who have their own forge or a serious workshop with blanks and templates. When making several roses from metal, this can be very useful - blanks heated in a forge or by gas welding are placed on pre-prepared cups of different sizes, and the petals are punched with a hammer until they fit.

The second method is piece-by-piece - a workpiece placed on a wire and stuck by welding is heated, and the master begins to wrap the petals with pliers or round nose pliers. Very important! - it is recommended to first string all the templates onto the stem, and then twist them, starting from the top. And so that they seem to wrap themselves in each other.

If you took care of the metal leaves using a separate template, then they are put on the stem in advance. The cross-shaped lower element under the flower is wrapped with the petals down, almost to the stem itself.

Each cut piece should be welded before bending. It is better to heat the metal with autogenous heat; it gives a directed flow and a well-defined glow zone. This way you can achieve very interesting volumetric solutions, even create an entire metal bouquet.

Should I paint an iron rose? It is enough to immerse it in oil while it is hot to get the effect of black varnish. For a flower made of metal much more important than form and volume than natural colors, which will peel off later anyway.

Since the development of man, when he began to actively use his hands in labor activity, the results of his labors became more and more complex, more perfect and more beautiful. At first, the purpose of making this or that thing was purely practical; later we began to make objects of art just like that, for aesthetic pleasure, without any hidden use for them.

Forged metal products have always been valued and admired. This is also due to the fact that looking at a high-quality forged item, we involuntarily imagine what a huge amount of work was done. After all, metal is metal and it is not as malleable as, say, wood.

DIY metal rose forging

Artistic forging of rose metal can be done either from a single sheet of metal (which is more difficult to perform) or from component parts. The second option will be considered here. The whole rose will consist of four elements:

• a stem, which will be imitated by a thin iron rod;
• metal leaves on the stem;
• stars at the base of the bud;
• three four-leaf shapes cut from a sheet of metal.

Forging a rose from metal, process

Naturally, artistic forging of rose metal, and indeed any work of this kind, begins with a drawing of the future product. The principle by which the clover-shaped elements presented below will be cut is that they will be of different sizes, depending on the size of the planned product. If we correspond to the average natural size of a rose, then the first part will be about 80 millimeters, the second 90, and the third 100.

First you need to find non-thick ones metal sheets approximately 1 to 1.5 mm thick. Then make markings of the shape shown in the photo, corresponding to the above dimensions.

You can cut it with a plasma cutter; if you don’t have one, then use either metal scissors (if the sheet lends itself) or carefully cut it out by welding. It is preferable to cut with scissors and choose a sheet of metal that is soft enough for this, this will guarantee the accuracy of the cut.

1. After cutting out the elements, their edges must be cleaned. This can be done using a grinder. The end result should be a shape like this.
2. On the left is the element after cutting with a plasma cutter, and on the right after cleaning the edges (with a grinder disk).
3. The asterisk must be marked on the same sheet. Its diameter will correspond to the largest size of the element, i.e. 100 millimeters. It will look like this.
4. The next step is to stamp the texture of the petals using this hammer.
5. It turns out that this is the surface on the edges of future petals.
6. Now we have come to the most crucial moment. At this stage, the bowl shape of the cut out elements is formed. This is achieved using a special shape and a rounded hammer.
7. Due to the fact that the elements are of different sizes, the smaller one should fit freely into the larger one.
8. Now the most interesting and creative part of the work: Shaping the petals by bending them. To do this, you need to heat the workpiece and use a hammer or tongs to shape the future rose.
9. The final part of the work will consist of bending the base (star) and painting it in the color you want after the product has cooled.

Photos of finished products various forms and configurations

In order to decide on the shape, size, and color of the future product, it would not be amiss to see how other people make forged roses. They may differ in color, be quite dull or, on the contrary, very bright.

For example, this one is made in bronze color with rather large petals.

This forged rose is the exact opposite of the previous one. She has a huge bright red bud on a neat, thin gilded stem. Looks great.

You can make a rose on a solid round stand, as in the next photo.

• The stand can also be made with a recess, in the shape of a plate, so that you can put small things there.
• The gilded color of the forged rose is perfect for a gift. Complete with it you can make a stand for a rose.
• The bronze color of the rose will perfectly decorate the living room.
• Forged candlestick, which is decorated with a bronze rose.
• A gilded bronze color would also be an unusual solution.
• The stand may not be solid, but in the form of a twisted rod. Looks good too.
• Very original idea. A wide twisted rod at the base of the rose with an abrasive pattern on it.
• This type of rose imitates a rose just beginning to fade, thanks to the petals hanging down to the ground at the base.

I am with you again and will please you new articles about homemade products every day!

This work was done with a minimum of tools and can be repeated by almost anyone.
Tool


I also forgot to add a hammer and a soldering iron (torch), but metal scissors turned out to be superfluous.
The round thing with a thread :) is part of the ball joint of the Lada.
Let's start with the petals, cut out the following blanks from tin:


We anneal it, put it in a spoon and begin to slowly roll it with the ball, giving it the shape we need.


In the photo, the original version with already curved petals, later I made uncurved ones and first polished them, and only then folded them.
Then we make a hole in the tail, collect several pieces and see how it turns out

In total, 7 petals were made.
And then I ran into a problem: I can’t make the petal smaller than the ball one...
It was a two-day plug. Ultimately, a solution was found. Let's cut out this strip of metal.


We make such cutouts on it


Then we take the bolt and cut it with a hacksaw


Solder


and roll it up :)


We push it out a little and begin to bend the petals.

Then we solder the tip so that the circle becomes rigid.
Now let's move on to the sepals.
We take the ball joint and PUNCH it with a hammer so that the necessary depression is formed in the wood.


We burn a strip of copper tin.


Let's hit it with all our might. Cut it out as we need it, then I think it's clear from the photo






Drill a hole and collect the flower.

Now we make the receptacle.
I didn't have the necessary copper blank... so I had to do this:

We solder it (don’t forget to solder a nut into the wide end :)), clamp it into a drill, process it
in the narrow part we cut a thread (or also solder a nut)


The stem is a copper tube (from a refrigerator, I think).
Let’s roll it all up :)


Now the twigs and leaves.
The twigs are just ordinary wire, we drill a hole in the stem and solder it there:


The original version of the leaves




I had to abandon it, because when punching the recesses (under the rhinestones) they were very
warped. Therefore, they were made using the LUT method.


Well, a few words about fixing the stones
We grind two such punches into a cone, with cones equal to the cones of the stones