Two presented simple circuits simulating the lighting and burning of a candle, followed by its extinguishing after a while or if a stream of air is blown on it. Radio amateurs usually design very useful things, but sometimes extremely useless ones. This is exactly the case.

Here we describe a very strange and useless (for now) device - an electronic analogue of a paraffin or wax candle. A stick with a super-bright LED at the end (this is a wick), and next to it hang a thermistor and a small electret microphone, and at the base there is a “web” of a microcircuit and several parts. You put a burning match or lighter into the thermistor, the cigarette and the LED lights up, and you blow towards this structure and the LED goes out.

Moreover, there are two options for this trifle. The one with a microphone, it burns for as long as you like until you blow on it, and the second, without a microphone, it goes out after a while (as the thermistor cools down), or as you blow on it to speed up the cooling.

First version of the scheme

In Figure 1, the first option is with a microphone. It is based on an RS trigger on elements D1.1 and D1.2. To turn on the HL1 LED, you need to set this trigger to the single position.

Rice. 1. Schematic diagram equivalent to a candle with temperature and acoustic control.

Connected to pin 6 of D1.2 is a temperature-dependent voltage divider, consisting of a trimming resistor R5 and a semiconductor thermistor R4 with a negative TCR. The divider is adjusted with resistor R5 so that in a cold state (at room temperature) the voltage at pin 6 of D1.2 is below the threshold of a logical unit, that is, so that element D1.2 reacts to it as a logical zero. If you heat R4, for example, by bringing a burning match, soldering iron, lighter, or cigarette.

Resistance R4 will begin to decrease and the voltage at pin 6 of D1.2 will begin to increase. As soon as it crosses the logical one threshold, the trigger switches and transistor VT2 turns on the HL1 LED. After HL1 is ignited, the heat source must be removed from the thermistor, and it will begin to cool, and the voltage at pin 6 of D1.2 will return to logical zero.

To turn off the LED, you need to apply a unit or a pulse to pin 1 of D1.1. Here the “blow” sensor is the M1 electret microphone. If you blow on it, an alternating voltage appears at its output, which is amplified by a cascade at VT1 and supplied to pin 1 of D1.1.

The operating mode of the cascade is set by trimming resistor R2 so that the voltage on its collector is in the region of logical zero (2-ЗV), but when the microphone is blown on, the alternating voltage on the collector goes into the region of logical one. And so, when the microphone is blown on, the trigger D1.1-D1.2 switches to the zero state and the LED goes out.

Second version of the scheme

Figure 2 shows the second diagram. This “candle” does not burn for a long time. Switching on, as in the first circuit, is carried out by heating a thermistor with a negative TCR.

And the shutdown occurs when the thermistor cools down. Unlike the first circuit, here the LED is controlled by a Schmitt trigger. The hysteresis of the Schmitt trigger allows you to set a fairly large voltage interval between the on and off levels.

This allows the “candle” to burn for a long time, and when the switch-off threshold is set below room temperature, for an indefinitely long time. You can speed up the extinction by cooling the thermistor by blowing on it.

Rice. 2. Schematic diagram of a temperature-controlled spark plug equivalent.

Resistors R1 and R3 (Fig. 2) form a temperature-dependent voltage divider. Trimmer resistor R3 sets the LED ignition threshold. And the damping threshold is set by resistor R5, which sets the width of the Schmitt tigger hysteresis loop.

Details

Electret microphone of unknown brand, any will do. Resistor R1 (Fig. 1) can be used to adjust its sensitivity. Thermoresistor KMT-4 with a nominal resistance of 100 kOhm. You can use any semiconductor thermistor with a negative TCR (resistance decreases when heated), with a nominal resistance of at least 10 kOhm. The maximum resistance R5 (or R3 for Fig. 2.) should be the same or close to the nominal resistance of the thermistor.

The K561LE5 chip can be replaced with a K176LE5. In the circuit in Figure 2, you can use K561LA7 or K176LA7 microcircuits. LED HL1 - super bright. Establishment (Fig. 1). By adjusting resistor R2, the voltage on the collector VT1 is set to about 2V. By adjusting R5, the threshold for turning on the LED is set.

Then, after the thermistor has cooled down, you need to blow on the microphone, as if blowing out a candle. If the LED does not go off, you need to increase it a little constant voltage on the collector VT1 by adjusting R2. Establishment (Fig. 2). Set resistor R5 to maximum resistance. Then, by adjusting R3, set the LED ignition threshold. And then adjust R5 to set the LED extinguishing threshold.

Economical lighting lamps are already found in almost every home. We offer you to consider how to make an LED lamp with your own hands, what materials will be required for this, as well as tips on what criteria should be used to select them.

Step-by-step development of an LED lamp

Initially, we are faced with the task of checking the performance of the LEDs and measuring the supply voltage of the network. When setting of this device to prevent damage electric shock We suggest using a 220/220 V isolation transformer. This will also ensure safer measurements when setting up our future LED lamp.

Please note that if any elements of the circuit are connected incorrectly, an explosion is possible, so strictly follow the instructions given below.

Most often, the problem of improper assembly lies precisely in poor-quality soldering of components.

When making calculations to measure the voltage drop in the current consumption of LEDs, you need to use a universal measuring multimeter. Basically, such homemade LED lamps are used at a voltage of 12 V, but our design will be designed for mains voltage 220 V AC.

Video: LED lamp at home

High light output is achieved with diodes at a current of 20-25 mA. But cheap LEDs can produce an unpleasant bluish glow, which is also very harmful to the eyes, so we recommend diluting your homemade LED lamp with a small amount of red LEDs. For 10 cheap white ones, 4 red LEDs will be enough.

The circuit is quite simple and is designed to power LEDs directly from the network, without an additional power supply. The only drawback of such a circuit is that all its components are not isolated from the mains supply and the LED lamp will not provide protection against possible electric shock. So be careful when assembling and installing this light. Although in the future the circuit can be upgraded and isolated from the network.

1. When turned on, a 100 ohm resistor protects the circuit from voltage surges; if it is not present, you need to use a higher power diode bridge rectifier.
2. The 400 nF capacitor limits the current required for the LEDs to glow normally. If necessary, you can add more LEDs if their total current consumption does not exceed the limit set by the capacitor.
3. Make sure that the capacitor used is designed for an operating voltage of at least 350 V, it should be one and a half times the mains voltage.
4. A 10uF capacitor is needed to provide a stable, flicker-free light source. Its rated voltage should be twice that measured across all LEDs connected in series during operation.

In the photo you see a burnt out lamp, which will soon be disassembled for a DIY LED lamp.

We disassemble the lamp, but very carefully so as not to damage the base, then clean it and degrease it with alcohol or acetone. Special attention We pay attention to the hole. We clean it of excess solder and process it again. This is necessary for high-quality soldering of components in the base.

Now we need to solder a tiny rectifier, we use a regular soldering iron for these purposes and have already prepared a diode bridge in advance and process the surface, working very carefully so as not to damage the previously installed parts.

As an insulating layer, it is fashionable to use the glue of a simple hot-melt assembly gun. A PVC tube is also suitable, but it is advisable to use a material specially designed for this purpose, filling all the space between the parts and at the same time fixing them. We have a ready-made basis for the future lamp.

After these manipulations, we proceed to the most interesting part: installing LEDs. We use a special circuit board as a basis; it can be bought at any electronic components store or even taken from some old and unnecessary equipment, having first cleared the board of unnecessary parts.

It is very important to check each of our boards for functionality, because otherwise all the work is in vain. We pay special attention to the contacts of the LEDs; if necessary, we further clean and narrow them.

Now we are assembling the constructor, we need to solder all the boards, we have four of them, to the capacitor. After this operation, we again insulate everything with glue and check the connections of the diodes to each other. We place the boards at the same distance from each other so that the light spreads evenly.

Also, without additional wires, we solder a 10 μF capacitor, this good experience soldering for future electricians.

Everything is ready. We recommend covering our lamp with a lampshade, because... LEDs emit extremely bright light that is very hard on the eyes. If we place our homemade lamp“cut” from paper, for example, or fabric, you get a very soft light, a romantic night light or a sconce for a nursery. By replacing the soft lampshade with a standard glass one, we get a fairly bright glow that does not irritate the eyes. This is good and very nice option for home or cottage.

If you want to power the lamp using batteries or from USB, you need to exclude the 400 nF capacitor and rectifier from the circuit, connecting the circuit directly to the source DC voltage 5-12 V.

This is a good device for illuminating an aquarium, but you need to choose a special waterproof lamp, you can find it by visiting any store electromechanical devices, such exist in any city, be it Chelyabinsk or Moscow.

Lamp for the office

You can make a creative wall, table lamp or floor lamp for your office from several dozen LEDs. But for this, the flow of light will be insufficient for reading; here you need a sufficient level of illumination of the workplace.

First you need to determine the number of LEDs and rated power.

After that, find out the load capacity of the rectifying diode bridge and capacitor. We connect a group of LEDs to the negative contact of the diode bridge. We connect all the LEDs as shown in the figure.

Solder all 60 LEDs together. If you need to connect additional LEDs, just continue to solder them sequentially, plus to minus. Use wires to connect the negative of one group of LEDs to the next until the entire assembly process is complete. Now add a diode bridge. Connect it as shown in the picture below. Positive lead to the positive wire of the first group of LEDs, connect the negative lead to common wire the last LED in the group.

Next, you need to prepare the base of the old light bulb by cutting off the wires from the board and soldering them to the AC inputs on the diode bridge, marked with the ~ sign. You can use plastic fasteners, screws and nuts to connect the two boards together if all the diodes are placed on separate boards. Don’t forget to fill the boards with glue, insulating them from short circuits. This is a fairly powerful network LED lamp that will last up to 100,000 hours of continuous operation.

Adding a capacitor

If you increase the supply voltage to the LEDs in order to make the light brighter, the LEDs will begin to heat up, which significantly reduces their durability. In order to avoid this, you need to connect a 10 W recessed or table lamp with an additional capacitor. Simply connect one side of the base to the negative output of the bridge rectifier and the positive side, through an additional capacitor, to the positive output of the rectifier. You can use 40 LEDs instead of the suggested 60, thereby increasing the overall brightness of the lamp.

Video: how to make an LED lamp with your own hands

If desired, a similar lamp can be made using a powerful LED, but then you will need capacitors of a different value.

As you can see, assembling or repairing a conventional DIY LED lamp is not particularly difficult. And it won't take much time and effort. This lamp is also suitable as a summer option, for example for a greenhouse; its light is absolutely harmless to plants.

The idea to create the design described below arose when visiting a cluttered, unlit room. An attempt to see the entire surrounding picture with the help of an ordinary hand-held flashlight was unsuccessful. Then I remembered the candle.

The power source in the proposed LED “candle” (its appearance shown in Fig. 1) serves as a generator made from a stepper electric motor of a computer disk drive of flexible magnetic five-inch disks, and a 0.1 F capacitance capacitor connected in parallel with it (Fig. 2). The stator of an electric motor contains a pair of windings with taps from the middle. The conclusions of one of them are made of red and white wires, the other - blue and yellow, the taps - brown. With a slight wrist rotation of the hand with the “candle”, the motor stator, together with the circuit board and the super-bright LEDs installed on it, begins to rotate intensively, generating electricity that charges the ionistor and powers the LEDs. Rotating, they create circular lighting.

The “candle” diagram is shown in Fig. 3. Current pulses arising in the stator windings during rotation around the rotor are rectified by diodes VD1-VD4 and charge the ionistor C1. Since the rated voltage of the applied ionistor is only 5.5 V, a KS451A zener diode is connected in parallel with it, limiting the rectified voltage to approximately 5.1 V. When the contacts of switch SA1 are closed and the “candle” is subsequently rotated, the LEDs EL1-EL3 begin to shine with an even light, which gradually decreases until it disappears completely after the stator stops. Resistors R1-R3 limit the current through the LEDs.

Step 1. The “candle” parts are mounted on a round printed circuit board made of one-sided foil fiberglass made in accordance with Fig. 4. Two diametrically located holes are intended for attaching it to the stator of the electric motor, the third is for attaching two weights to it, creating an imbalance necessary for the rotation of the stator around the rotor.

Step 2. The parts are installed on the side of the printed conductors (the places where their leads are soldered are shown as light squares). The ionistor is placed “on its side” and glued to the board with “Moment” glue.

Step 3. The LED leads are bent at right angles so that they shine outward.

Step 4. We will replace the KS451A zener diode with the imported BZV85-C5V1. Since their stabilization voltage can differ significantly from the nominal value (4.8..5.4 V), for use in the described design it is necessary to select a specimen in which it does not exceed the limits of 5..5.1 V. Ionistor C1 - any, with a capacity 0.1 F (for example, Panasonic, Korchip, ELNA), LEDs EL1-EL3 - L-53MWC, ARL-5013UWC, ARL-5613UWW white glow. Switch SA1 - slider PD9-3 (from an old calculator) or similar imported Resistors R1-R3 - MLT with a resistance of 100-220 Ohms (selected during setup until approximately the same brightness of the LEDs is obtained).

Step 5. Before assembly, two diagonally located screws are unscrewed from the electric motor stator and, replacing them with longer ones with the same thread, the mounted board is screwed to the stator.

Step 6. Then, on the side free of parts, using an MZ screw and nut, two weights are secured, which are steel cylinders with a diameter of 10 and a length of 35..40 mm with a diametrical hole in the middle. Finally, the leads of the stator windings are soldered into the corresponding holes in the board.

Step 7. The easiest way to make a “candle” handle is from wood, turning it on a machine or hand-planing a cylinder with a diameter of approximately 30 and a length of 150 mm. A blind hole is drilled in one of its ends for the engine rotor head. The diameter of the hole should be such that the head fits into it tightly, without a gap.

Step 8. Having installed the motor on the handle, the board is covered on top with a transparent plastic cap (the author used the corresponding part of a Silver shoe polish container), which is glued to the board in several places with Moment glue.

1.VIDEO TESTS OF THE CANDLE ON.

Video.1 shows the light effect created by a decorative candle. To get best quality In a darkened room, the video was filmed with a decorative candle oriented horizontally.

Video.1.

2. DESIGN.

The decorative candle is structurally made in the body of a sheet of white office paper rolled into a tube. To add rigidity and enhance water-resistant properties, the tube body is completely wrapped in transparent tape. The stability of the entire structure is ensured by an inverted transparent plastic cup. A decorative candle is turned on when installed on any horizontal surface, such as a table. The inclusion of a decorative candle is ensured by contacts fixed at the base of the candle that operate to close. The power source for the decorative candle is three batteries installed and connected in series, each with a voltage of 1.5 volts.

The “burning flame” effect is created by dispersing light from the LED in a plastic dome shape. Changing the brightness of the glow and the duration of the flashes makes the flame effect more realistic. The frequency and brightness of the light flashes depends on the type of LEDs used and the total voltage of the three batteries.

3. OPERATING PRINCIPLE.

In Fig. 1. given electrical diagram decorative candle. General principle The work is based on creating a pulse sequence with different time intervals on two parallel-connected flashing LEDs. Let's look at the principle of operation in more detail. After turning on the power, by closing the SA1 contacts, current will flow through the resistor R1 and the ordinary LED HL1 (yellow). The resistance of resistor R1 is designed so that LED HL1 will glow at about a third of the maximum brightness. But the potential across resistor R1 is sufficient to turn on two parallel-connected flashing LEDs HL2,HL3. These LEDs begin to work cyclically turning on and off and thereby changing the current flowing through the HL1 LED. The HL1 LED will begin to glow with variable brightness, which is visually perceived as flickering. Since the flash frequency of flashing LEDs is unstable, the light effect produced by the HL1 LED will become more varied. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that at some point in time the flashing LEDs are synchronized (flash simultaneously).

Fig. 1. Electrical circuit diagram.

4.DETAILS AND MATERIALS.

The printed circuit board is made of thin cardboard with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm. Dimensions printed circuit board 10x30mm. A link to the archive with drawings is located at the end of the article. The list of radio components is given in table.1.

Table.1.List of radio components.

Additional components: a roll of ordinary transparent tape, a thin stranded mounting wire, a tube of transparent hot-melt glue, a hot-melt glue gun, a heat-shrink tube at least 10mm wide or insulating tape (blue or black).

5.ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS.

Please follow the assembly instructions for proper assembly. You cannot edit or scale drawings in the archive, since all drawings in the archive are in exact dimensions.

1. MANUFACTURE OF A LIGHT DIFESTING DOME-SHAPED LIGHT GUIDE.

As a light source for the dome-shaped light guide, take a yellow LED in a housing with a diameter of 3 mm (L-3014YD). To form the light guide, you will need hot-melt glue (2) and a special glue gun (1) to melt this glue (photo 2).

Photo.2.

Take the yellow LED in your hand and turn it upside down. Then apply hot-melt adhesive layer by layer from a glue gun to the head part. The thermoplastic adhesive will flow downwards into a bow-shaped shape. It is better to do this over a white sheet of paper or newspaper so as not to stain everything around.

Be careful: hot melt adhesive can burn you badly. Take your time, do not press the trigger of the gun, let the glue flow freely from the gun. Then the flow will be slow, this is exactly what is needed in order to form a good light diffuser in the shape of an onion from the glue. The general method for forming this shape is not complicated, apply a little hot melt glue, let it dry, apply more glue and let it dry again, finish with the formation of a thin curled tail (photo 3).

Photo.3. click photo to enlarge.

2.PRODUCTION OF INSTALLATION BOARD.

Download the archive at the end of the article. The archive contains an installation drawing and a drawing of connections (reverse side) in exact dimensions. Print the archive on an office sheet of white A4 paper. After printing, cut out the drawings along the outline. Prepare a rectangle of thin cardboard measuring 10x30mm, that is, the same dimensions as the drawings you printed (photo 4). Glue the installation drawing on one side and the connection drawing on the other side of the cardboard surface. Remember that the components and holes of one drawing must completely match the holes located on the other side!

Photo.4. click photo to enlarge.

When the glued drawings are dry, make holes in the places where the parts marked with holes will be installed. Photo 5 shows the manufactured circuit board on both sides with holes made.

Photo.5. click photo to enlarge.

3.INSTALLATION OF RADIO COMPONENTS.

Install the radio components on the prepared cardboard board according to photo.6. Please note that all connections between radio components are made by bending the terminals of the radio components themselves in the desired direction. Therefore, there is no need to cut the leads of the radio components before installation.

Photo.6. click photo to enlarge.

Photo 7 shows the installation in an approximate view. Also use the diagram of the connections between the radio components on the drawing you pasted. An LED with a fused diffuser (HL1) is mounted on the top of the circuit board. Moreover, solder a long thin wire to its positive terminal (anode) (marked with a red arrow). The length of the installation wire must cover the length of three 1.5-volt “AA” batteries installed in series.

Pass the lead of resistor R1 (marked with a blue arrow) through hole Gb1 (-), then solder this resistor lead to adjacent components according to photo.6,7.

Photo.7. click photo to enlarge.

4.CONNECTION AND CONNECTION OF BATTERIES.

Place the batteries in series (one after another) so that the positive terminal of one goes to the negative terminal of the other (- + -). Using a thin mounting wire, make connections between the batteries as shown in the photo.8. To make soldering faster and easier, lubricate the future soldering areas. not acidic flux or sand with fine sandpaper. Then tin and solder the mounting wire.

Photo.8. click photo to enlarge.

Connect to the battery (1) by soldering the terminal of resistor R1 (2) according to photo.9. The resistor output is connected to the negative pole of the battery.

Photo.9. click photo to enlarge.

Flashing LEDs must be covered with an opaque casing so that their light flashes are not visible. In the author’s version of the assembly, a black heat-shrinkable tube with a width (diameter) of just over 10 mm was used for these purposes (photo 10). If you don’t have a heat-shrink tube, you can wrap the flashing LEDs with ordinary black or blue insulating tape.

Photo.10. click photo to enlarge.

5.INSTALLATION OF SWITCH CONTACTS.

To turn it on and off, the switch contacts are soldered to the positive terminal of the last battery in the section (bottom) (photo 11). The operating principle of the switch (1) is simple. As soon as the decorative candle is placed on the table, the contacts of the switch close and the imitation of the light effect of the candle burning begins.

The switch contacts must first be tinned in the area shown by the red arrow (photo 11). Then solder to the positive bottom of the battery in series connection. Solder the free end of a long wire coming from the positive terminal (anode) of the HL1 LED to the second contact of the switch.

Photo.11. click photo to enlarge.

6. MANUFACTURING THE CANDLE CASE.

To make the candle body, take a sheet of A4 white office paper. This sheet must be rolled into a tube with a diameter of at least 15mm. The length of the tube should not exceed 210mm. To give the twisted tube (2) strength and water-repellent properties, wrap it with narrow tape (1) over the entire surface (photo 12).

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When candles are lit in the house, it becomes cozy and warm, the small beautiful flame evokes pleasant associations and warmed memories, the evening becomes romantic. And there are situations or events when it is not very comfortable to light a real flame, for example, at children's parties in kindergarten or on stage in a theater. Then products come to the rescue that perfectly imitate a candle, but at a quick glance, and at close range, it is difficult to distinguish them from the original.

In this publication, we will show you one of these ideas, which will allow you to simulate the burning of a wax flame using an LED candle, which is easy to do with your own hands.

The small electronic design perfectly imitates the combustion of a regular candle. This craft can be done in about a quarter of an hour. It does not require any super scarce radio components, everything is very, very easy.

As you can see in the video, the effect is truly created as if a small candle were burning.

Design details

What is her secret? To make it, we need two yellow lights and a red LED, a 3-volt battery, a 500-ohm variable resistor and a 100-ohm ohm, a motor from DVD drive, a small magnet that is a switch. In addition, you need a small piece of milky cellophane. All the details on the creation of this craft can be read in the Radio publication for 2014, issue 12.

You can read the contents of the article at the bottom of this publication, after the end of the video.

To make this candle, you don’t need to be a super electronics engineer or some kind of cool craftsman; anyone can repeat such a craft. The scheme is very simple.

This whole structure is powered by 3 Volt batteries, two LEDs glow, and a milky cellophane petal is glued to them. There is a red LED on one side and a yellow LED on the other. This entire structure is rotated by a motor from the DVD drive.

The device is turned on by a magnet; there are two iron contacts. The magnet becomes magnetized and closes the circuit. The effect of a burning fire is created.

And the device is covered with a casing on top, which imitates a wax candle.

This is such a fun little design. Watch the video, and suddenly you decide to repeat this idea, then later - an article from the publication.

Article from the publication Radio, 2014, No. 12. Creator D. Mamichev.

one day, in the window of one of the shops in the center of Vienna, I noticed burning candles on a stand screen covered with luxurious velvet. It looked great - the flames were beating in the light breeze. Interested in a question fire safety, walked up to the glass.

Upon closer examination, I realized that the “flame” was a miniature petal screen illuminated by a yellow LED, making chaotic oscillatory movements. Taking a couple of steps back, look at the display case again. The LED candle looked like a real one at a distance of a couple of meters.

I wanted to repeat the idea in a homemade design, which will be discussed below.

Circuit diagram of an electronic imitation of a wax candle

The device diagram is shown in Fig. 1. It contains two LEDs of different motors and glow colors, which are powered by a single lithium galvanic cell.
The design is illustrated in Fig. 2. A disk stand 7 with a diameter of 27 mm (from the DVD drive) is attached to the motor shaft 6. A pair of rubber shock absorbers made from a belt from a tape recorder are glued to the bottom of the stand.

A plastic ring is glued to the stand. A switch and 8 constant resistor 1 are soldered to the terminals of the electric motor. By changing the length of their terminals, it is possible to adjust the height of the spark plug. Otherwise, they are soldered to the printed conductors of the board 2. The element LEDs and 3 power holders 4 are installed on the board. A screen 5 is glued to the latter. The switch is made of a piece of fiberglass measuring 5×8 mm with two contact pads and holes near them.

Two L-shaped pieces of wire from paper clips are inserted into the holes and soldered to the pads. The function of the contact contact is performed by a magnet (from a laser
DVD drive heads).

A strip of tape is glued to one side of the magnet. By turning the magnet in different directions, it is possible to close and open the power circuit. When the supply voltage is complete, the LEDs light up, illuminating the screen on both sides. With a slight push, the candle will begin to rotate on a fairly stationary base.

Due to the inertia of the eye, a “flame” appears; its color is changed by a trimming resistor. P2.

Pay

The board is made of one-sided foil fiberglass laminate with a thickness of 1.5 mm, its drawing is shown in Fig. 3.

Contacts XT1 and XT2 - pieces of wire from an iron clip.
The case (Fig. 4) in the form of a sleeve is made of thick paper or cardboard. It is wound onto a plastic frame and glued together. The screen is cut out of narrow milky plastic (from
kefir bottle). It is glued to the LEDs.
A constant resistor MLT was used, a tuned resistor was used - SPZ-3, LEDs of increased brightness were installed in a transparent housing with a diameter of 3 mm.

The combination of colors is possible: yellow rice and (red. 5), light green, orange, etc. Electric motor (height 24 and diameter 12 mm) with a rated supply voltage of 5-6. B (from a computer or car DVD drive).

Maybe you will be interested in a creeping line of LEDs.

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DIY LED candle