Long-burning wood stove made from a barrel. Do-it-yourself long-burning wood stoves Do-it-yourself long-burning wood stove

Solid fuel boilers For all their advantages, they have one serious drawback. The problem is that fuel burns out quite quickly when using this equipment. Therefore, you have to constantly monitor its operation in order to promptly add the next portion of firewood to the combustion chamber. This leads to fuel being wasted uneconomically, resulting in increased heating costs.

To solve this problem, you should replace the equipment with a more advanced and economical one - a boiler long burning. Regular wood is used as fuel for its operation. But unlike conventional installations running on the same fuel, the combustion process takes longer. Firewood has to be thrown in less often. The result is fuel savings. You can buy such a boiler, but it’s better to make it yourself. The scheme for its creation is quite simple, so no difficulties will arise during the work. In addition, there are many video instructions on the Internet that show the process of building such boilers.

Operating principle of a long-burning boiler

The operation of such boilers is based on the principle of not combustion, but smoldering of the fuel placed in the combustion chamber. This allows you to get more heat. You cannot count on such a result in brick kilns, since their construction uses a slightly different design scheme. The main reason is that there is no active traction in them.

Long-burning boilers have a number of features in terms of their design, which ensures maximum efficiency of heat release during the smoldering process of logs. Even if you build a homemade long-burning stove with your own hands, one bookmark will be enough to keep it running for 8 hours.

One of the features of solid combustion boilers is the presence of a valve-regulator as part of their design. When firewood is loaded into the combustion chamber and the active combustion process begins, it is necessary to close the valve and minimize the flow of oxygen into the boiler. During the smoldering process, the firewood begins to release flue gas. Its main components are methane, carbon monoxide and hydrogen.

The heat generated during the operation of such furnaces is precisely thanks to flue gas. Once in the ignition chamber, it ignites, after which it burns, releasing a large amount of thermal energy.

How does it all work?

If you decide to build a long-burning boiler with your own hands, then you should not rush to begin work on its creation. First you need to find a drawing for the stove. There are plenty of them on the web. It will not be superfluous diagram of a similar installation. It will make the work of creating a furnace easier. In addition, before starting work, you need to watch a video on how to make a boiler with your own hands.

When creating a long-burning installation, steel pipes should be used as the main material. If they are not available, then you can choose pipes with a diameter of 30-40 cm. In this case, the minimum wall thickness should be 5 mm. If it is less, then during the operation of the metal it will quickly burn out, and then the installation will be unsuitable for further use. The height of the boiler must be at least 1 m.

The created boiler is divided into three parts:

• combustion zone - it is used to remove smoke and smoldering ash;
• combustion zone - it contains smoldering solid fuel;
• loading zone – it decreases in height, which is associated with the gradual burnout of the briquette.

In any scheme of a long-term combustion boiler there is such a component as an air distributor. The duration of combustion depends on it. It limits the area in which the combustion process occurs. The distributor looks like a disk made of sheet steel 4 mm thick. There is a pipe in its middle part. Air enters the combustion chamber through it.

So that as the fuel smolders in the furnace, it can freely fall inside the chamber, its size is made slightly smaller than the combustion chamber. To control the combustion zone, the distributor has an impeller, the height of which is 5 cm. As its height increases, its space will also increase, which will lead to an increase in the rate of firewood burning in the oven chamber.

The pipe through which air will flow must have diameter equal to 6 cm. You can use either a solid pipe or a telescopic one. In this case, the holes in the distributor should not be larger than 2 cm. Otherwise, air will enter the oven chamber in large quantities, which will lead to oversaturation with oxygen. A damper should be installed at the top. It will allow you to regulate the draft in the furnace. You can connect a long-burning boiler to heating in one of two ways:

• a water heat exchanger pipe is passed through the combustion chamber. The water in the tank will be heated through a coil that is connected to this pipe;
• a chimney is passed through the remote tank. Smoke passes through it in a hot state, which leads to heating of the coolant.

Comparing these two methods, it should be noted that the first is noticeably simpler in its implementation, and the second provides high efficiency.

Instructions for making a boiler yourself

Before starting work on the manufacture of a long-burning boiler, you should watch the video instructions for self-creation installations to avoid errors. You must have a drawing of the furnace, with a focus on which all work should be carried out.

Tools

Needed in advance prepare materials and tools that you will need during the work:

• pipes 30 cm, 5-6 cm, 10 cm. Please note that the wall thickness of each pipe must be at least 3 mm;
• steel sheet 4 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• hand tools.

To place the boiler, choose a place with a hard surface.

Making a homemade stove

Installation manufacturing process includes the following steps:

Chimney and reflector

While using a homemade boiler, its walls will be constantly heated, and, naturally, thermal energy will emanate from them. If the installation of the stove is carried out for a small room, then reflectors will be needed, which will need to be placed around it. Thanks to them, the flow will be distributed, thereby increasing the amount of heat entering inside.

If a long-burning boiler will be installed in a room where people are constantly present, the issue of ensuring the safety of the installation should be considered. Lining the stove with brick will solve this problem.

To create a stove chimney, you can use a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. The diameter of the combustion chamber should exceed the straight section of the pipe by 10 cm. It should be led outside with a minimum of kinks. Optimally - two bends at an angle of 45 degrees.

A few other features:

• When creating a stove chimney, its structure should be made collapsible. In this case, it will be possible to remove and clean its walls from soot during the season;
• sections of the chimney must be connected in the direction opposite to the movement of gas;
• objects and structures that are easily flammable under the influence of open fire must be moved some distance from the installation.

We are building the foundation

The base for the boiler can be made of burnt brick or rubble stone can be used. These materials do not crack when exposed to high temperatures. If a solid foundation is required, then in this case you will have to pour a solid monolithic slab. The equipment is installed on legs. Using a channel, they can be easily welded. You can hide them from view behind brickwork.

Air must be supplied to a long-burning boiler in a certain quantity. This can be achieved only if it is filled in full, without leaving any free cavities. In addition to firewood, peat and sawdust can be added to the furnace firebox.

Adding fuel to the boiler should be carried out according to the following instructions:

• first you need to remove the lid and remove the regulator from the tank;
• then fuel is densely packed into the chamber;
• it is necessary to spray a flammable liquid on top of the stored fuel;
• after installing the regulator, the tank is covered with a lid, and then the damper is opened;
• After this, a splinter is thrown into the air pipe. When the smoldering process begins, the damper can be closed.

Let's sum it up

Now you have a long burning boiler. This equipment can be installed in an unheated room. It will be an excellent solution for heating a garage. By installing such a boiler in your workshop, you can easily provide a warm atmosphere in it. If the boiler was manufactured correctly, then high efficiency and efficiency of its operation are guaranteed.

A bright flame in the furnace appears due to the combustion of pyrolysis gases. They contain organic compounds, soot, hydrogen and carbon monoxide. In conventional designs, gases do not burn out completely, since there is not enough oxygen for this. In home-made long-burning furnaces, separate chambers with constant air admission are installed for post-burning pyrolysis.

You can make a long-burning stove yourself

Advantages and Disadvantages

Homemade long-burning wood-burning stoves have their advantages and disadvantages, like any other device.

Among the advantages are:

• high efficiency;
• economical fuel consumption;
• possibility of burning firewood, sawdust, wood briquettes, waste from wood processing companies;
• small dimensions;
• simple design that allows you to quickly make a stove at home;
• simple air supply control using a damper.

The disadvantages apply to both factory units and home-made devices. Among them are the need for the first firebox in normal mode and the complex design of the chimney. During operation of the furnace, condensate is released and settles on inner surface chimney, and a layer of soot is placed on top. Therefore, the chimney must be made without corners or bends.

Before prolonged burning, the unit must be melted as usual. This will warm up the inside of the stove and the chimney. After the firebox, ash is removed from the ash pit and the device is set up to operate for 10-12 hours without additional wood fuel.

In this video you will learn how to make a long-burning wood-burning stove:

Design and Application

The main feature of the long-burning furnace design is two chambers. In one, wood is ignited, in the second, gases are burned. In some models, the firebox is located in the upper part of the body, and the second chamber is located under it or through a partition. Combustion starts from the top layers of fuel, then the wood goes down. With the help of fans, new air flows are supplied.

Another option is to place one camera at the bottom and the second at the top. Pyrolysis gases rise into the upper opening without additional draft. The firebox volume of such stoves is smaller, but there is no need to install a fan.

Homemade wood-burning stoves are used most often for heating large greenhouses, garages, workshops or utility rooms. If you make the structure airtight and properly equip the chimney , then you can place the unit in a residential building. In this case, you need to equip the device with a water circuit, which is connected to the radiators of the heating system.

How to make a homemade long-burning boiler:

Materials and tools

To make a homemade wood-burning stove, you need to choose high-quality materials and tools. You need to prepare:

• steel sheets, metal drum or empty propane tank;
• metal pipes for the pipe and chimney;
• grinding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• grate of grates;
• drill with metal drills;
• ash pan;
• handles, doors and hinges.

When carrying out work, you need to protect your eyes with special glasses and wear a welding suit. It is better to cover all seams with sealant or alabaster cord.

The finished top combustion stove must be checked using sawdust. This fuel allows you to slowly warm up the unit body and check the correctness of all connections.

How to make a long-burning potbelly stove:

Barrel stove

Stove makers can make a small stove from old metal barrels of various sizes. The top of a larger container is cut off with a grinder, a thin strip is made from a steel sheet and attached to the lid, making it airtight. The handle is also welded. In the lower part you need to make an opening for the ash pan and insert a suitable metal box into it.

In a smaller barrel, you need to make a round hole in the bottom. The small body is placed in a large container on a triangular stand so that the opening is located above the ash pan. A hole for the pipe is cut in the side of the outer barrel. A short part is cut off from the pipe and welded to the body. Other sections of the chimney must be attached to this part at such an angle that it can be taken outside the room.

You need to install a wooden log in the firebox, covering the hole in the lower part with it. Then sawdust is poured into the container and compacted. The fuel is poured with a small amount of incendiary fluid and set on fire. The structure is covered with a lid, and during the combustion process the gas is released into a large barrel, where it burns out a second time. The finished oven is installed on a car rim.

Craftsmen from the stove-makers' club make different models long-burning furnaces. They are used as stationary or mobile units.

Simple materials are used for the work, which allows you to save money, because the purchased structure is quite expensive. The entire manufacturing process takes little time.

More details about the 12-hour long burning boiler:

32846 Solid fuel as the main source of heat has not lost its position for many decades. And even today, taking into account the electric and gas alternatives, solid fuel boilers are still very popular, especially when it comes to long-term combustion.

Such equipment can work on different types, starting from…

Solid fuel as the main source of heat has not lost its position for many decades. And even today, taking into account the electric and gas alternatives, solid fuel boilers are still very popular, especially when it comes to long-term combustion.

Such equipment can work on different types, from sawdust to coal. Depending on the region and the cost of fuel, preference is given to one type or another. Of course, natural gas is the most inexpensive heating method, but it is not available in all areas and regions. Electricity is the most expensive source of heat, although it is ubiquitous. And if we are talking about a long-burning stove with our own hands, then we will be able to save not only on operation, but also on manufacturing. You can make such a stove yourself if you understand diagrams and drawings and know how to work with metal.

Why boilers and furnaces are more economical to operate

In order to figure this out, let’s use the opposite method and compare it with conventional ovens.

What are the disadvantages of a standard stove:

• extremely low efficiency, which at best is 80%;
• the need for constant monitoring of fuel burnout - the filling time is 2-4 hours, depending on the volume of the firebox;
• lack of ability to automate combustion.

In the long-burning stove, these shortcomings are eliminated, as a result of which it has become an optimized analogue of a traditional stove.

Here, the combustion process is replaced by smoldering - due to the limited amount of oxygen, the firewood in the firebox does not burn, but actually smolders, simultaneously releasing pyrolysis gas. In turn, it burns in a separate chamber, due to which the efficiency of the unit increases by 12-15%. As a result, the burning time of one stack of firewood increases to 8-10 hours.

Furnace diagram

As for process automation, this has been successfully implemented in pellet stoves, where pellets are used as fuel.

For reference! Pellets are pressed sawdust, dust, rot, wood chips and other fine waste from the woodworking industry, treated with natural resins.

This stove is presented together with a bunker for pellets. When part of the fuel burns out, it occurs automatic filling fireboxes with additional volume. Without human intervention, such a long-burning stove can operate for several days.

Manufacturing process

It is better to start making a stove by finding a suitable room. Working with metal is, in principle, very dusty, and considering that all this will need to be welded and sawed, it is better to use a utility room where there is 220 V electrical wiring.

Technical nuances when constructing a furnace in the video:

Required materials and tools

• metal container with a minimum volume of 200 liters (used is ideal for this purpose) gas cylinder);
• 2 pieces of pipe ∅10 cm;
• channel;
• refractory bricks for masonry (55 pcs.);
• a piece of sheet 60-80 cm diagonally;
• ready-mix or cement mortar for masonry;
• a set of tools for working with metal;
• electric arc welding and electrodes;
• mounting level;
• plumb lines.

As a base, you can use any metal container with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm. Even a fire extinguisher will do, but it is advisable to install such a stove only in small rooms.

Manufacturing process

Initially, it is necessary to prepare the furnace body. To do this, we repeat, you can use any container made of steel, cast iron, stainless steel with a wall thickness of 4-5 mm. Most often, a used gas cylinder is used as a base, which must be washed and primed to eliminate the smell and gas residues.

If there is no suitable container, it can be welded from a steel sheet 5-6 mm thick with a diameter of at least 40-50 cm. The bottom is welded to the cylinder. The lid is prepared separately. You can make the future stove rectangular or square - the shape does not matter, it is important that the welds are airtight.

The roof of the cylinder or fire extinguisher will need to be cut off. A spark cylinder can create a semblance of detonation. First fill it to the brim with water and start cutting.

If you cook a container from a sheet, it is better to make the bottom not from a circle along the diameter of the cylinder, but from a rectangle - you will immediately have a stable base.

Separately, cut out another circle from the sheet with a diameter a centimeter or two less than the diameter of the barrel, and in it cut out a circle ∅10 cm for the pipe. Use welding to weld the pipe to the hole.

At the edges of the steel circle from the channel, weld legs that will simultaneously hold the base and push the fuel during its combustion.

The length of the pipe section should be at least 15 cm greater than the height of the entire structure so that at the end of combustion the pipe is one level higher than the edge of the barrel.

From the top of the cylinder (fire extinguisher) or separately from a sheet, cut out a circle for the future lid. It is advisable to weld a kind of “skirt” along the edges so that the lid fits as tightly as possible.

In the lid, cut a hole ∅10 cm for another pipe.

On the body of the barrel itself, cut two holes - for the firebox and for the ash pan. For each of them you put a door on the hinges, and weld a handle from a corner or channel to it. Both holes are connected to each other by a grate on which fuel will be placed.

Example of a rectangular long-burning stove

Foundation structure

The total mass of the stove is not large, even taking into account the lining of refractory bricks. However, the foundation under it must be strong and stable.

You should not make even a small excavation under the foundation; a completely flat area filled with concrete is sufficient.

Bricks can be used as a base, from which the furnace spot is laid out, ceramic tiles, cement floor, etc. In principle, only one thing is ideal straightness, which should be checked using a mounting level.

Chimney

This is an essential element of absolutely any solid fuel stove. A pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm, welded on top with a slight deviation, will serve as a chimney for a homemade design.

The length of the straight section of the chimney must be at least the diameter of the entire stove so that combustion products are discharged unhindered. When arranging a chimney pipe, angles of more than 450, a large number of bends before leaving the room and a minimum length are not allowed. It is optimal when the chimney pipe is absolutely straight to the exit. By the way, to make cleaning easier, it should be made of two parts.

The only exception concerns the rocket stove; in this case, the chimney is used as an additional heat source and passes either under the floor or under the sunbed.

Reflector

This is a metal or foil sheet mounted on the wall behind the stove. The main task of such an element is to reflect heat from the wall and prevent fire. As an additional bonus of the reflector, the temperature in the room increases due to the return of heat from the wall and the redistribution of heat flows.

Final assembly of the structure

Finished body

Decorative design

Brick lining is a purely personal matter, which depends only on aesthetic taste. The presence of a brick shell does not have much effect on the efficiency of the furnace. According to some data, the burning time of one stack of firewood increases due to a decrease in heat loss, although this effect is very doubtful. A pure experiment using one type of stove and type of fuel, where in one case there is a brick shell, and in the second there is not, has not yet been carried out.

Covering the stove with bricks or not is optional. Choose whether it is worth performing additional work if, for example, such a stove is located in a utility room or a separate boiler room.

The principle of a long-burning stove using solid fuel (wood, sawdust, wood chips or pellets) is the same in all cases - whether such a unit is in a garage or heating a country house. The pyrolysis process, which occurs with minimal air access, significantly increases the boiler efficiency and burnout time.

Before building a stove with your own hands, pay attention to the following nuances:

• individual sections of the chimney are collected in the direction against the movement of gases;
• there should be at least a meter of free space around the stove so as not to pose a threat to health or property;
• install the stove on a small pedestal. So that it can be carefully removed and the chimney pipe separated - in this case, cleaning will not create any hassle.

How to make a regular bubafonya (long-burning stove) with a water jacket - video:

Making your own long-burning stove

Wood stoves are actively used to heat rooms for various purposes - these can be living rooms, outbuildings, garages and much more. Gas cannot be carried everywhere, which supports the demand for solid fuel units. After all, firewood is a fairly cheap source of heat, and in some cases even free. If we make a long-burning stove with our own hands and install it indoors, we will have at our disposal an easy-to-use unit.

In this review we will look at:

• Operating principle of long-burning furnaces;
• Their advantages and disadvantages;
• the most efficient wood stove designs;
• how to make a good stove with your own hands.

After reviewing the information provided and the homemade drawings, you can independently assemble a slow-burning stove for a garage, cottage, outbuilding and any other buildings.

Structural features of furnaces

A long-burning stove is convenient because it can burn on one stack of wood several times longer than traditional stoves and fireplaces. This is directly related to her design features– it is equipped with a large firebox, and some of them burn wood under certain conditions, with minimal access of oxygen to the combustion chamber and subsequent combustion of pyrolysis gases.

Sealing the seams will prevent combustion products from entering the heated room.

Long-burning stoves have large fireboxes - a large amount of firewood and other types of warm fuel are placed here. Due to this, the frequency of approaches for laying fuel is reduced. Classic stoves and boilers with miniature combustion chambers require new portions every 2-3 hours. In the daytime you can still put up with this, but at night a person wants to sleep, and not bother with adding firewood.

The worst thing is if everyone works during the day - there is simply no one to put logs in the stove. During this time, the temperature in the heated rooms will become quite low, so the evening will have to be spent not on rest, but on kindling in order to create comfortable conditions. However, at night you will have to do the same thing as during the day - throw more and more portions of logs into the insatiable firebox of the wood-burning stove.

The operating principle of a long-burning furnace depends on its design:

• Units with a large firebox - their long operation is explained by the use of large combustion chambers, into which a lot of firewood is loaded;
• Pyrolysis units - here solid fuel is burned with a minimum amount of oxygen and forms pyrolysis gas;
• Units without pyrolysis, but with limited combustion intensity, are “bubafonya” stoves made from a barrel, which have a simple but very original device.

The stoves themselves can be made from a variety of materials - stone, refractory brick or metal.

The key to longer burning of your stove is the use of normal firewood, and not rotten logs with low calorific value. Beech, oak, hornbeam and some varieties of fruit trees burn the longest.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's look at the main pros and cons of homemade heating stoves long burning. Let's start, as usual, with the positive features:

Compactness and relative mobility are the main advantages of potbelly stoves.

• Cheap - most often they are assembled from cheap sheet metal, old capacious gas cylinders, barrels and much more. All this can be found in ruins and in old enterprises. Some people can rummage around in their garage or barn - there will probably be unnecessary metal there for a homemade long-burning stove;
• Ease of assembly - no one requires ultra-precise adherence to the chosen scheme. For example, the same pyrolysis stove-stove can have a variety of sizes;
• High efficiency - a properly assembled long-burning stove can provide heat to large rooms without requiring frequent approaches to add fuel.

There are also certain disadvantages:

• Not the most attractive appearance– homemade products really cannot please users with good external data;
• Some types of stoves cannot be used in residential premises - the same “bubafonya” will create a lot of smoke and stink before it reaches operating mode;
• A long-burning furnace with a water circuit will be difficult to implement - you need to somehow ensure that heat is drawn into the heating circuit.

Despite some obvious disadvantages, homemade long-burning wood-burning stoves are in definite demand.

A long-burning stove is an excellent unit for heating greenhouses. Heating them with electricity or gas is expensive or completely impossible, but by purchasing cheap firewood, you can provide greenhouses with life-giving warmth throughout the winter.

Types of long-burning stoves

If you have planned to build a long-burning stove with your own hands, you have all the tools and you are not afraid of difficulties, then you will certainly need the information from the next section of our review - in it we will talk about the varieties of these stoves.

The simplest of all stoves is the potbelly stove. It is an iron stove assembled from an old gas cylinder or from sheet metal. In order to ensure long-term combustion, its internal volume is made very large - this is most easily realized in models made of sheet steel, you just need to select a drawing that is suitable in size.

This stove can operate on wood, coal, or compressed solid fuel. It is easy to use, easy to melt and produces a large amount of heat. It is also characterized by unpretentiousness. If you need a simple stove for your dacha, feel free to choose a potbelly stove - it will be the simplest and most affordable option.

This option is good because we can implement long-term combustion in it and work on the design. The network contains drawings of similar stoves with large combustion chambers and with afterburning chambers - these are the so-called pyrolysis units. They burn not only fuel, but also gases formed during pyrolysis. A brick unit will be bulky, but very effective. Here are its advantages:

• Long-term heat retention through the use of brick or stone;
• Excellent appearance - just find a suitable project and make neat masonry;
• Possibility of working in residential premises, unlike the same “bubafoni”.

The disadvantage is that to assemble such a long-burning stove you will need experience in bricklaying.

The presented long-burning stove has impressive dimensions, runs on wood and has an extremely simple design - depending on the volume, it can burn for up to 20-24 hours, without requiring frequent approaches to laying firewood. To make it, you will need a pair of metal containers with lids (100-200 liter barrels are suitable), pipes for the chimney and air supply, as well as a channel to create a weighted piston.

The “Bubafonya” long-burning stove is most often used for heating non-residential buildings - garages, greenhouses with garden crops growing in them, technical premises and utility rooms. Some craftsmen equip it with heating circuits, which allows them to heat living rooms without the risk of filling them with acrid smoke.

Making your own oven

Let's figure out how to make a long-burning stove with your own hands, using available materials and suitable tools. We will make a “bubafonya” and a potbelly stove, after which we will consider ways to modernize our homemade equipment.

Making a potbelly stove

Long-burning potbelly stoves are good because they are made from any available materials- these are various barrels, old capacious cans, pieces of large diameter pipes or just sheet metal. We chose sheet steel as the starting material - it is a more convenient material to process. You can adapt a barrel for this, but doing work in its internal volume is not very convenient.

All sizes are presented rather as guidelines, a kind of average best option. You, in turn, can deviate from the dimensions of the parts to create a stove that satisfies your specific wishes.

The design of a long-burning furnace is quite clear from the drawing presented above. Here are its main components:

• Combustion chamber - wood burns in it with the formation of pyrolysis gas;
• Afterburner – combustion of pyrolysis products occurs in it;
• Doors of the combustion chamber and ash pan - they are purchased in the store, but you can make them yourself;
• Chimney - in most cases it is a pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

You can deviate from the drawing in one direction or another. But remember that as the size decreases, the burning time decreases and the power of the long-burning stove decreases.

The lower the power, the smaller the heated area. Therefore, it is best to provide a small reserve.

To make a long-burning stove like a potbelly stove, we need sheet steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm - this will ensure a long service life of the heating equipment. If the steel is thin, it will begin to burn through - after a couple of seasons, holes will form in it. Therefore, the thickness of the steel is given special attention. The optimal thickness is 3-5 mm.

For our example, we will take the classic scheme of a potbelly stove, modify it and get at our disposal an effective wood-burning stove for a home. At the initial stage, we prepare the side sheets - in our drawing they have dimensions of 450x450 mm. Next, we make the lower walls, front and rear walls - their dimensions are 200x450 mm. As a result, we should get a rectangular box. But don’t rush to weld it together - there is a lot of work ahead.

First you need to make a base - this is the bottom wall and two side ones. We weld them together, weld the grate at a height of 80 mm from the bottom. Now we need to prepare the front wall of the long-term heating oven - we weld both doors into it, and then weld it to our structure.

We prepare two metal sheets measuring 200x370 mm. We weld the first of them to the front and side walls at a height of 160 mm from the top. Next we prepare back wall– we weld small metal tubes into it, which should fit into the space between the two inner sheets that form the afterburning chamber – secondary air will be supplied through them. Then we weld the back wall and a second metal sheet at a height of 80 from the top (welded to the side and rear walls).

The damper is used to regulate air flow. It is this that improves the efficiency and quality of traction.

Our DIY long-burning stove is almost ready - all that remains is to figure out the top cover. We make a hole in it with a diameter of 100 mm and weld a piece of pipe for the future chimney. Now it remains to find out whether you need a hob or not - it is also welded into the top cover. At the last stage, we install the lid in place and weld it - the stove is ready, now it can be installed on a non-combustible base, attached to the chimney and started.

When starting the long-burning stove presented above, let it burn, then cover the ash pit so that the wood barely smolders and the generation of pyrolysis gas begins.

Another interesting long-burning pyrolysis furnace is shown in the following figure. It is made from a barrel or a piece of large diameter pipe and is equipped with a suitable lid. In the lower part, at a distance of 80-100 mm from the bottom, a metal disk with a hole in the middle is welded. A door is welded between the disk and the bottom, on the side wall. The resulting space forms our firebox. We weld a chimney with a diameter of 70-100 mm in the upper part.

In terms of low cost of use, such a stove is a real gift, since there is no shortage of sawdust in a private home.

The resulting long-burning furnace receives heat by burning pyrolysis gases generated when heating sawdust. The sawdust itself is poured into the main volume, and to prevent it from spilling into the firebox, it is compacted using a wooden cone. When the stove starts, a fire is lit in the firebox, the cone is removed - after a while the unit will begin to produce heat.

We make “bubafonya”

If you are making a stove for heating premises for household or technical purposes, you should pay attention to the stove under the slightly funny name “bubafonya”. It has a simple but original design that provides a lot of thermal energy. It works like this:

• The lid is removed, firewood is loaded (small chips are placed on top);
• Kerosene-soaked rags are placed on top of the firewood and in the spaces between them;
• The rags are set on fire and the wood is set on fire;
• A piston is installed in the oven, the lid is closed - the unit begins to generate heat.

In order to understand the essence of this unusual long-burning stove, you just need to look at its diagram. The unit consists of three main parts - a body, a chimney, a heavy piston and a cover.

This picture clearly demonstrates the scheme and principle of operation of the “bubafoni”.

“Bubafonya” is simple to make; the easiest way is to build it from two whole metal barrels (without holes) with a volume of 150-200 liters. Thick steel is not particularly needed here, since due to the limited supply of oxygen, combustion will be slow and low-temperature. Let's see how to make such a long-burning stove with your own hands. Here are step-by-step instructions:

• We cut off the lid from the main barrel and prepare the combustion chamber;
• We weld a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm into the side wall of the combustion chamber (in the upper part, according to the figure) - this will be the chimney;
• We prepare the top cover - we make a hole 40-50 mm wide in it, through which the piston pipe will pass. Bend the edges of the lid outward with gentle blows of the blade, tamp the edges of the barrel (combustion chamber) inward - the lid should fit tightly onto our barrel;
• We are preparing the piston of our long-burning furnace - we take a pipe with a diameter of about 40-50 mm (it should fit into the hole in the lid), weld the lid from the second barrel to it from below, and you cannot weld the pipe itself - air will pass through it. We weld pieces of a thick L-shaped channel to the bottom of the piston cover so that the piston itself is as massive as possible. The diameter of the piston itself must be such that it can be easily inserted into the combustion chamber (there should be gaps about 5 mm wide between the walls and the piston, through which combustion products will escape).

Our self-made long-burning stove is ready - all that remains is to install it on a non-combustible base and test it. How this stove is set on fire is described a little higher.

Some models of these long-burning stoves operate on one load of firewood for up to 20-24 hours or more, generating a large amount of heat.

Increasing efficiency

Additional sheets of iron can be replaced by a wall made of bricks. It heats up more slowly, but it releases heat longer.

The long-burning stoves we reviewed are distinguished by their high efficiency - the fuel in them burns slowly, and in the same potbelly stove there is also the production of pyrolysis gases, which provide additional heat. Let's now figure out how to increase the efficiency of our self-assembled equipment. In all three stoves we can increase the thickness of the metal - thereby it will accumulate heat in itself and slowly release it into environment. The easiest way to do this is with sheet metal potbelly stoves, choosing thicker steel.

We can also equip all three stoves with long horizontal sections of chimneys. The thing is that any solid fuel stoves (including long-term combustion ones) send a large amount of heat into the atmosphere. By equipping the chimney with a long horizontal section, we will leave some of this heat in the room - the approximate length of the section is 3-4 meters.

As for potbelly stoves, we can equip these long-burning stoves with additional metal plates that wrap around the body from the back and sides (distanced from it by 40-50 mm). Between the body and the plates, cold air will be sucked in, heated up and sent upward - that is, we made the most ordinary convector. If desired, other ovens can be equipped with such convectors.

There are a couple more upgrade options. The first option is to cover the corner in which the long-burning stove is located with galvanized iron, so that the generated heat is reflected into the room and does not go into the walls. The second option is to line the stove with heat-intensive bricks or natural stone.

Video

Solid fuel stoves running on wood have one serious drawback: it is very difficult to automate the combustion process, and for some designs it is impossible. From time to time you have to take a break from your work and add firewood, which burns out in about an hour. To extend the operating time of the furnace on one load, the furnaces are equipped with a long-burning mode.

What is long burning mode

Wood combustion is a complex physical and chemical process that occurs in several stages. When ignited, while the temperature in the stove is low, the wood heats up and darkens. At temperatures above 200 degrees, pyrolysis begins - decomposition under the influence of temperature into solid residues and pyrolysis gases. These gases themselves are flammable because they contain hydrogen, carbon monoxide, organic vapors and carbon in the form of soot. A bright flame with a high temperature is produced by the combustion of pyrolysis gases.

In a conventional furnace, complete combustion of pyrolysis gases does not occur due to a lack of oxygen. In long-burning furnaces, a separate chamber or combustion chamber is intended for afterburning of pyrolysis gases, where they are enriched with atmospheric oxygen. Thanks to this, fuel is burned more completely, less soot and other harmful substances are released into the air, and the efficiency of the stove increases.

To avoid excessive temperature in the wood pre-combustion chamber, air access into it is limited. The firewood begins to smolder, releasing a large amount of pyrolysis gas. Due to the slow smoldering of firewood, the operating time of the stove on one load increases significantly, in some cases reaching 6-8 hours. This phenomenon is called the “long burning mode”.

Long-burning sawdust stove: video

Advantages and disadvantages of long-burning stoves

Like any other unit, such ovens have their pros and cons.

The undeniable advantages include:

• economical consumption of firewood;
• high efficiency, up to 85-90%;
• versatility in the choice of fuel, firewood, waste from woodworking enterprises, sawdust, and pellets are suitable;
• small sizes;
• ease of control - using an air damper;
• simplicity of design, thanks to which it is easy to make a long-burning stove with your own hands.

Long-burning stoves are not without their disadvantages:

• during combustion, condensate is released, on which soot is actively deposited in the chimney, therefore special requirements are imposed on the chimney design - it should not have corners, bends, its design should be as accessible as possible for cleaning;
• To switch to the long-burning mode, the stove must first be heated in the usual mode to warm up the stove itself and the chimney, otherwise the combustion process will stop.

All the described features of long-burning stoves are relevant both for industrial heating units and for home-made stoves.

You can increase efficiency by adding a water circuit to the stove, as shown in the video.

Design of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning stoves have design features. They consist of two chambers or combustion zones, in one of which pyrolysis of wood occurs, and in the other, afterburning of wood gases occurs. The location of the cameras relative to each other may be different.

In some models, fuel is loaded from above; as a result of primary smoldering, the firewood compacts and settles, and gases enter the afterburning chamber, which can be located either below or through a partition on the side of the first chamber. Such stoves are often equipped with blower fans to direct the draft into the desired channel.

In other models, the pre-combustion chamber is located at the bottom, and the pyrolysis gases rise into the upper chamber without forced draft. Such stoves do not require a fan, but their loading chamber volume is usually smaller.

To regulate the combustion intensity, an air supply channel with a damper is provided. It can also have different shapes and depends on the type of stove. To compact the fuel and make smoldering more intense, some stoves are equipped with a weight that lowers as the wood burns. Typically, long-burning sawdust stoves have this design.

Application of pyrolysis furnaces

Long-burning stoves using wood, pellets or sawdust are often used to heat utility rooms and workshops, garages, and greenhouses. They can also be used to heat a house, but it is necessary to ensure that the stove is sealed, as carbon monoxide may be released.

If you use a pyrolysis stove to heat a garden or residential building, it is better to equip it with a water circuit connected to the heating radiators, and install the heating unit itself in the boiler room.

This article talks about how to simply make a smokehouse for cold smoking, which at home will help you prepare real delicacies from the most ordinary products.

You can find out how to make a smoke generator for cold smoking by looking here.

Here you will find the most understandable drawings for creating an effective potbelly stove with your own hands: http://gidpopechkam.ru/pechki/burzhujki-chertezhi.html

Materials for making a long-burning stove

Long-burning stoves can be made by hand from sheet metal or various metal structures. Examples and drawings of such stoves are given below.

Barrel stove

A home-made heating device intended for heating utility rooms, made from a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. The stove runs on sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste. Inside the large barrel on a stand there is a small barrel for loading fuel. Below it is an ash pan - a drawer made of sheet metal.

The stove itself is placed on a stand, the role of which is played by a car disk. A smoke pipe is made from pipe scraps with a diameter of 100-150 mm. The barrel is equipped with a sheet metal lid with a handle and an opening for air supply.

A log sharpened to a cone is installed inside a small barrel; it is indicated in the drawing. Sawdust is poured around it. After compaction, the log is removed and the sawdust is set on fire. During the smoldering process, gas is released into the space of a large barrel, where it is burned.

Furnace with water circuit made of metal pipe

A homemade long-burning stove made of a metal pipe, which can burn wood or sawdust, is equipped with a water circuit. Loading is done from below; to intensify combustion, an air distributor is installed inside the stove, pressing the smoldering wood.

A telescopic hollow pipe is installed in the center of the disk, through which air flows directly into the combustion chamber, where, thanks to the ribs welded onto the disk, it is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the firewood. It lowers on its own as the fuel burns out. You can lift it before loading using a cable.

The loading door is located in the center of the oven. At the bottom there is a cleaning door and an ash pan. At the top there is a chimney. The stove is equipped with a water circuit with pipes for water inlet and outlet. Such a stove with a water circuit can heat small houses and other premises quite efficiently, and you can make it with your own hands from scrap materials.

Furnace from a waste gas cylinder

A stove can be made from a gas cylinder without extra costs or searching for suitable material. The dimensions of the 50-liter cylinder are perfect for making such a stove, and the wall thickness and tightness make it safe to use.

The design of the furnace as a whole does not differ from the previous model, this can be seen in the drawing. A propane cylinder with a cut off top is used as a body. You can make a cover of suitable size with your own hands from sheet metal with a hole for the air distributor pipe.

Fuel is loaded through the top, filling the volume of the cylinder almost to the chimney. This stove operates on sawdust and other waste, as well as small firewood. The fuel is carefully compacted, ignited using wood chips or an ignition agent, an air distributor is installed, and then covered with a lid.

The efficiency of such a stove is quite high, and thanks to its sealed housing, it can be used to heat rooms where people stay for a long time. If desired, it can be equipped with a water circuit by passing the chimney through the boiler.

Stove "Bubafonya" from a gas cylinder

Making a long-burning stove with your own hands from a fifty-liter gas cylinder is presented in the video.

The design of the stove is as simple as possible; it consists of only a few parts: a body, a lid, an air distributor and a chimney. For stability, the stove can be placed on legs from the corner. To remove ash from below, you can make an ash pan with a door.

Another video.

Sequence of actions

1. The remaining gas is released from the gas cylinder and washed several times with water.
2. Cut off the top of the cylinder. You can use it to make a furnace lid by making a hole with a diameter of 65 mm in the center. The edges of the lid and the furnace body are ground so that the lid fits tightly onto the body.
3. In the upper part of the cylinder, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is made for the chimney and a piece of pipe 30-40 cm long is welded horizontally.
4. At the bottom of the cylinder, a cleaning door is made for the ash pan. To do this, cut out a rectangular section of the cylinder body, grind the sections, weld the hinges and install the door on the resulting hole. The door is equipped with a latch.
5. The balloon is placed on legs for stability. They can be made from a corner, pipe scraps or a wheel rim.

   For ease of carrying, rod handles are welded on the sides.

6. The most important part of the furnace is the air distributor. It must be heavy enough to effectively press down sawdust and wood chips, withstand the high temperature of the oven, and also have diverging blades. They can be made from corner scraps. The distributor itself is made of thick-walled steel - at least 6 mm. Cut out a circle with a diameter 20-40 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the oven with a hole in the center. A pipe with a diameter of 60 mm and a height greater than the height of the stove is installed in the hole. Air will flow through it to the combustion chamber. The blades are welded at the bottom of the disk.
7. You can paint the stove body yourself with paint based on organosilicon compounds, having previously removed scale, rust and dirt from its surface. Any other paint will quickly burn, since the stove heats up to high temperatures during operation.

The temperature of the walls of a gas cylinder stove can heat up to 350 degrees during combustion! To avoid serious burns, use caution!

The homemade sawdust stove “Bubafonya” can be equipped with a water circuit. In this case, it is installed in a permanent place. Typically, this stove is used as a mobile one: it can be placed in a greenhouse during freezing periods, used to heat a workshop or barn in the winter, or used to heat a garage. Subject to fire safety requirements, Bubafonya is safe and effective.

Wood boilers for heating a private house

Basic models of brick stoves for wood-burning homes, their features and manufacturing methods

How to fold using drawings brick kilns for the home with a hob with your own hands

How to make a smokehouse with your own hands, if you have drawings and dimensions

Reading time ≈ 8 minutes

With the onset of cold days, the problem of heating becomes more and more urgent. Owners of private houses who do not have a connection to central heating can solve this problem by building a long-burning wood-burning stove with their own hands. Such homemade structures will ensure the maintenance of comfortable conditions during the cold period. Such units can be purchased in a store and spend a considerable amount of money, or you can build suitable option on one's own.

Features of homemade long-burning wood-burning stoves

Owners of private houses, when dealing with heating issues, have to decide which heating equipment to give preference to.

There are devices characterized by periodic operation. They provide quick heating of the interior space. After this, the unit turns off, and the temperature in the room drops just as quickly. To maintain the combustion process, stove owners often have to add a new portion of firewood to the heating unit.

The second type of stove is characterized by long burning. This includes not only wood-burning stoves, but also gas generating units. When installing such structures, the owner will need to add firewood several times a day, since the burning time reaches 6-10 hours. However, there are models of stoves in which the process of combustion and smoldering with the release of heat can last up to 20 hours.

A homemade long-burning stove is considered the most preferable option, since it can be adapted to a specific space at the assembly stage.

The design of stoves that require long-term combustion and their operation are accompanied by distinctive features:

• for their manufacture, preference is given to steel or cast iron;
• the design involves constructing a firebox from two separate parts (the firebox has sufficient capacity, thanks to which a large amount of firewood can be loaded into it);
• some models are equipped with an air convection system;
• one stack of firewood is enough to operate the stove for a sufficient amount of time;
• such unit designs use different types of fuel (firewood and wood pellets);
• if desired, the design can be improved by equipping it with a mechanism that allows automatic supply of fuel to the firebox;
• such units are characterized by high efficiency;
• When introducing such furnace designs, the need to build a special foundation for them is eliminated;
• such units are characterized by low weight and acceptable dimensions;
• the fuel burns completely, leaving only a small amount of ash;
• modern stoves have a fairly attractive appearance, thanks to which they can be placed in any room, they fit organically into any interior;
• such equipment is designed in such a way that the smell of burning and the presence of smoke is eliminated inside the building;
• the stove is equipped with dampers and sealed doors, preventing the penetration of fuel gas into the rooms.

Owners of private houses will be able to assemble such structures themselves if they have the appropriate drawings and recommendations.

Models made of cast iron can last for more than fifty years. Such a long service life is ensured due to the characteristics of cast iron. It does not corrode. In addition, cast iron is highly resistant to mechanical damage.

Long-term operation of the furnace is ensured by a special design. The firewood in the firebox is not subject to combustion, but to smoldering.

A large amount of firewood is loaded into the firebox, thereby limiting the supply of oxygen. As a result, the firewood first heats up and then begins to smolder, releasing flammable fuel gas.

Unfortunately, this stove design is not without its drawbacks. These include:

• condensation formation;
• the shape of the chimney pipe should only be straight;
• the possibility of using liquid fuel is excluded.

Types of stoves

Such homemade heating devices will be able to provide a normal microclimate in private houses in which their owners permanently reside at any time of the year. You can also equip country houses with homemade stoves, which are often empty in winter. The owners come, but spend minimal time here.

Such furnaces, if necessary, are installed in other buildings:

• greenhouses;
• barns;
• garages;
• storerooms.

It all depends on what goals the owners of the buildings are pursuing.

When choosing models, experts recommend giving preference to the design that is accompanied by the presence of a water circuit. In this case, the stove is equipped with a firebox and an additional water compartment. The oven body will gradually heat up, thanks to which the generated heat will be distributed evenly inside the room.

A long-burning wood-burning stove with a water compartment, built with your own hands, is capable of quickly heating the living space, successfully competing with it in terms of aesthetics.

Depending on the space in which the stove is planned to be installed, the dimensions and optimal shape of the future heating unit are determined.

In retail establishments, long-burning heating units are offered for sale, accompanied by high level popularity. These include:

• Buleryan;
• Professor Butakov;
• Breneran;
• Lachinyanka;
• Slobozhanka;
• Bubafonya;
• Potbelly stove.

Fuel used

It's no secret that firewood is the most environmentally friendly fuel. This category is complemented by dry logs and pellets, since they are obtained by pressing small-sized dried chips and sawdust.

For stoves with long burning, fuel pellets can be used as fuel, which are obtained from the following materials:

• cones;
• seed husks;
• nut shells;
• dried citrus fruit peel;
• tree bark.

You can also use charcoal, but only on condition that when creating the furnace, the walls of the unit are deliberately thickened. If the walls are not thickened, the oven can be damaged, since it will be subject to intense heat during operation.

Preparing for work

The process of constructing a heating unit involves performing work that is accompanied by the formation of a large amount of dust and increased noise. In addition, this task is labor-intensive, so it is important to properly prepare for the upcoming work.

The space in which the work will be carried out must be equipped with a source of electricity. This is important, since it will not be possible to do without electric welding.

Depending on the purpose of use, ovens of identical design may have different dimensions. To understand what dimensions will be optimal in a particular case, it is important to determine the location where the stove will be installed.

The following requirements are put forward for the location of the heating unit:

• It is important to provide free space around the stove (the unit gets very hot, so if other interior items are located close together, it can cause them to heat up and deteriorate);
• It is not allowed to place flammable substances near the unit;
• Before starting the unit, it is recommended to check it for serviceability and successful operation of all modes.

You can prevent premature failure of the furnace if you listen to the recommendations of experienced specialists. In particular, they strongly recommend leaving a small amount of ash inside the oven. This will prevent the bottom from burning.

Construction of a furnace from a metal barrel

If the decision regarding the construction of a homemade stove has been made, you must first prepare all the necessary material, namely:

• metal with a volume of 200 liters (it must be made of stainless steel, cast iron or steel);
• two steel pipes of different lengths;
• red brick;
• metal channel;
• construction mixture;
• cement.

You also need to prepare tools, without which it will be impossible to perform certain actions. These include:

• axe;
• welding machine;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• set of electrodes;
• plumbs for installation;
• building level;
• Bulgarian.

It will be easier to build a homemade stove if you follow the step-by-step instructions:

1. You need to take a prepared cylinder (it is recommended to use an empty gas cylinder).
   
2. Open the valve.
3. Fill the bottle with water.
4. Cut off the top part and set it aside (it will be used later).
5. They take pieces of reinforcement and weld them to the bottom of the barrel, constructing legs.
   
6. A circle with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the main body is cut out of a metal sheet.
7. In the cut out circle, another circle is cut out in the middle.
8. A pipe is applied to the cut out inner round hole and then welded, which will serve as a smoke exhaust.
   
9. On the reverse side of this metal circle, four sections of channel are welded, which are positioned perpendicular to each other.
   
10. They take the previously cut off upper part of the barrel and cut a hole for the pipe in its center.
    
11. A hole is cut out in the housing, which will be used to load fuel.
12. A metal door is welded to the cut hole.
13. A handle is welded to the door.
14. Below this door, another smaller hole is cut out, and the door is also welded to it.
    
15. Next, prepare the place where the homemade stove will be installed (make a recess in the wall).
16. A layer of brick is laid out at the bottom of the constructed niche and filled with cement.
17. Check that the constructed site is perfectly level.
    
18. The following steps are aimed at installing a chimney pipe. A straight section of pipe is welded to the hole in the barrel.
19. The main part of the chimney is constructed from a curved pipe.
20. Asbestos fabric is laid, which will provide reliable insulation.
    
21. Attach the clamp.
22. A special cap is installed on the top of the pipe, which will provide reliable protection from pollution and natural precipitation.
23. A reflector is installed, which is also called a protective screen for the furnace (it is made of metal or brick).
    

This completes the process of constructing a long-burning furnace. During operation of such a unit, air supply is ensured high temperature, thanks to which it is possible to heat the interior space well.

You can build a long-burning stove that will operate on wood with your own hands. Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account all the recommendations of specialists, prepare high-quality materials and tools. You will also need skills in working with special tools or a specialist of the appropriate level.

Boilers for solid fuel sometimes they become the only option when you need to heat a room. There can be many reasons for this: the inability or economic infeasibility of connecting to a gas main when you need to heat a temporary structure, or solid fuel is more accessible than all other energy resources.

The most economical are long-burning wood-burning stoves, which, unlike conventional boilers, have a higher efficiency. It is quite possible to make such stoves yourself, if you get acquainted with the recommendations of experienced craftsmen. Thus, you will get double savings: on operation and on manufacturing.

What is the difference from conventional ovens?

First, you can consider what disadvantages the owner of a conventional stove faces:

• very low efficiency, the level of which can be increased to 80 percent, no more;
• You constantly need to ensure that you add a new portion of fuel on time (usually this needs to be done every 2-3 hours);
• there is no way to automate the combustion process and thus reduce labor costs.

There are none of the listed disadvantages in top combustion furnaces. We can say that they have become an improved version of the traditional stove, which has not lost its position for many centuries. In addition, it has a lot of advantages, including the almost complete absence of soot, small dimensions of the boiler, and the ability to regulate the combustion process. There are many designs that you can make with your own hands.

A long-burning furnace is designed so that oxygen supplies the fuel in limited quantities. Firewood (coal, pellets) does not burn, but smolders. At this moment they release so-called pyrolysis gas. It goes into a separate chamber and burns out completely. As a result, efficiency increases by another 10-15 percent, and the fuel loading period extends from 8 to 12 hours.

For such stoves, sawdust, firewood, coal and pellets can be used as fuel. That is, it is not difficult to choose it depending on the region and the availability of any type of fuel. When such advanced stoves use pellets, the fuel loading process is easily automated. You just need to monitor the filling of the bunker.

Reference. Pellets are gradually becoming a popular type of fuel. They are easy to use and allow you to save the Earth’s natural resources, as they make this type of fuel from waste from the wood processing industry.

An automated long-burning stove using pellets can operate without human intervention for several days.

Materials and tools

To decide how to make a long-burning stove yourself, you need to prepare all the tools in advance and stock up on materials:

• for the furnace body you will need a metal container of at least 200 liters in volume (sometimes they take an empty, broken gas cylinder for this purpose);
• two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 10 cm;
• metal channel; for body legs;
• approximately 60 pieces of refractory bricks (if it is decided to line the stove with bricks);
• sheet of metal with a thickness of 60 to 80 cm diagonally;

• mixture for masonry (preferably ready-made, but you can make the solution yourself);
• hinges for doors;
• necessary tools that are used when working with metal (for example, a grinder);
• electric welding equipment, electrodes;
• level and plumb lines,
• construction tape and other marking tools.

After all materials and tools have been prepared, you can begin the process of making the stove.

How to make a stove with your own hands

When choosing a room where you can make a long-burning stove with your own hands, you need to keep in mind that for welding work You will need access to 220 V electricity.

The body can be made of stainless steel, cast iron or steel. When you make it yourself using welding, you need to take steel sheets with a thickness of at least 4 mm. The most convenient and stable design will be obtained if the body is shaped like a rectangular parallelepiped. But the main thing is to make it airtight.

However, it is easier and more reliable to choose a ready-made container. For example, even a used fire extinguisher is suitable for a low-power oven.

Important! If a used gas cylinder is used for the housing, special procedures must be followed for safety reasons. An empty cylinder always contains gas vapors, which can lead to an explosion. Therefore, before cutting off the “top” of it, the balloon must be filled to the very top with ordinary water.

Separately, another circle is cut out of a sheet of iron with a diameter 2-2.5 cm larger than the diameter of the body itself. You need to cut a hole in it for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. The pipe is immediately welded into place.

The legs are made of metal channel. They will not only support the base, but also “push” the fuel during the combustion process.

The lid is made separately. They also cut a hole in it for a pipe 10 cm in diameter. A “skirt” is provided along the edges for a tighter connection between the lid and the body.

Holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut out on the body. Metal doors are hung on them, to which handles (from a corner or channel) are welded. The firebox and ash pan are separated by a grate on which fuel must be placed.

Oven base

When making a coal stove with your own hands, you need to take care of a reliable foundation. This must be done, even if the stove is not heavy in design.

There is no need to make a recess for the foundation. It is enough to make a smooth concrete “pillow”.

In order to mark the base of the stove, you can use building materials such as ceramic tiles or bricks. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe straightness, controlling the surface of the base using the mounting level.

Chimney device

When it comes to heating equipment that runs on solid fuel, it is imperative to install a chimney. In this case, the chimney is made from a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

At a distance of 50–100 mm from the upper edge of the stove, a chimney pipe is cut in. This is a segment steel pipe, into which the chimney will fit tightly. The smoke channel is made with a small horizontal section - 50 - 60 cm of a straight pipe is enough to weaken the draft. A large number of knees before leaving the premises is not allowed.

A chimney made of several sections is easy to use. This way you can clean it without any problems.

Important! Sections of the prefabricated chimney pipe are assembled in the direction opposite to the movement of gases.

Final stage

After the stove is assembled and installed in a permanent place, it can be given an aesthetic appearance using refractory bricks. As practice has shown, this does not affect the performance of the boiler in any way. There is an opinion that due to a decrease in heat loss, the fuel burnout period increases. However, this has not yet been proven.

Therefore, the owner of the stove can choose whether it is worth spending additional money on covering the stove with bricks, or doing without this step. Sometimes in this way they make a stove for a long-burning greenhouse with their own hands, which is very convenient and practical.

Whatever fuel is used in a long-burning furnace, the operating principle is the same. The pyrolysis process, with minimal access to oxygen, significantly increases the efficiency of the furnace and increases the burnout period of the fuel.

There are some rules for the manufacture and installation of a stove, compliance with which is important for further operation:

1. For safety reasons, there should be no furniture, objects, or other things for a meter around the stove to avoid a possible fire.
2. If you install the stove on a small pedestal, then, if necessary, you can easily remove and disassemble the chimney.
3. Not much ash is formed in a long-burning furnace, but from time to time it needs to be removed, leaving a small layer for thermal insulation of the bottom (thus reducing the intensity of its burning).

To improve performance characteristics, a heat reflector - a metal or foil sheet - is attached to the wall behind the stove. It not only protects the wall from fire, but also returns heat from the wall back into the room.

Of course, gas is currently the most cost-effective and less problematic to operate. But its connection is not always possible. Many regions are forced to make do with other types of fuel. Electricity, although a convenient energy resource, is very expensive. In such a situation, long-burning solid fuel stoves will help out.