The popularity of furniture panels is growing every year. The material is so versatile, reliable and durable that it is successfully used not only in furniture production, but also in the field of wood construction, and some types of wood allow structures to be erected outdoors. Due to the growing demand, questions about methods of covering furniture panels become quite reasonable. In this material we will look at the most relevant options depending on your preferences and needs.
BUYING A FURNITURE BOARD
If you need to buy furniture panels in Moscow and the Moscow region, our company will be the best price solution. "Larix" is a quality standard not only in the Russian Federation, but also in many European countries. We have been exporting lumber abroad for more than 10 years. In our assortment you can always find furniture panels from the best species of Siberia. Angara pine and Siberian larch are among the most sought-after species on the modern market. Impressive hardness, durability, beauty and versatility are the most powerful arguments of these breeds.
Product name | Unit change. | Price per unit | |||
ANGARA PINE | Extra class | class A | class B | ||
1 | Furniture panels made of pine 40x300/600, lengths 900-2000 | m 2 | RUR 2,174 | RUB 1,691 | RUB 1,208 |
2 | Furniture panels made of pine 40x300/600, lengths 2100-4000 | m 2 | RUR 2,174 | RUB 1,691 | RUB 1,208 |
3 | Furniture Panels made of pine 20x200/300/600, lengths 900-2000 |
m 2 | 978 rub. | 804 rub. | 543 rub. |
4 | Furniture Panels made of pine 20x200/300/600, lengths 2100-4000 | m 2 | 978 rub. | 804 rub. | 543 rub. |
5 | Furniture Panels made of pine 28x600x3000 | m 2 | - | RUR 1,183 | - |
Product name | Unit change | Price per unit | |||
class Extra | class A | class IN | |||
LARCH | |||||
1 | Furniture Shields (Steps) 20x200/300/400/500/600/800, lengths 900-2000 | m2 | 1572 rub. | 1208 rub. | - |
2 | Furniture Shields (Advance) 20x200/300/400/500/600, lengths 2100-4000 |
m2 | 2029 rub. | 1208 rub. | - |
3 | Reinforced furniture) 26x800x1200/1500/1800/2000 |
m2 | RUB 1,946 | RUR 1,346 | - |
4 | Furniture Shields (Steps - Steps on metal/concrete - Reinforced furniture) 26x800x1200/1500/1800/2000 |
m2 | 2044 rub. | - | - |
ANGARA PINE | Unit change | class Extra | class A | class B | |
1 | Furniture Shield 18 x 600 x 2500/3000 | m2 | 978 rub. | 804 rub. | - |
2 | Furniture Shield 28/40 x 600 x 2500/3000 | m2 | 2174r.(40mm) | - |
FURNITURE BOARD COATING
There are three main options for paint and varnish coatings for furniture panels - varnish, stain and paint.
The most preferable option for furniture panels made of Siberian larch and Angara pine is varnish. What is most valued about wood is its natural aesthetics, and these species have long won the love of the world's best interior designers. Varnish is the best coating for preserving the natural color and pattern of the wood cut. It is worth keeping in mind that the most uniform application of varnish is possible only if you use a brush.
Stain is a rather unpredictable coating due to the complexity of the staining process. For high-quality staining you need experience and special equipment. Neither a roller nor a brush will leave you a chance for perfect coverage; in the case of these tools, smudges cannot be avoided. The best option For high-quality application of stain, a good sprayer is needed.
Paint is the easiest coating to apply. Depending on the consistency, you can use either a brush or a roller. But some types of paint may require a sprayer. It is worth keeping in mind that most paints completely hide natural color and wood texture, especially on the smooth and polished surface of a furniture board
Here the other day, at the request of a good friend, I created such a shelf in the image and likeness of existing ones. Size approximately 270 by 200 mm, material - furniture board and a piece of pine board for the leg. Some people like these - it’s a little thing to put in or something else.
And I want to tell you about how to process such a craft not only to give it a marketable appearance, but also to improve resistance to the external environment - primarily water and moisture, because The shelf is designed for a “kitchen” netbook. Moreover, you can process not only the shelf - the same cutting board, a beautiful wooden spoon, or even a simple cut of the trunk, which is used as a stand for hot dishes or for cups.
While making handles for knives from very beautiful and expensive materials such as Arizona ironwood and amboyna, I spotted several simple and effective recipes processing wood in order to emphasize its beauty and protect it from moisture. I will share them.
Firstly, we will not talk about varnishes. I am not against this, but no varnish, in my (and not only) opinion, will give such beauty to the wood pattern and ease of restoration of mechanical damage that the use of various oils provides. Secondly, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the photographs were taken from an ordinary pine furniture panel, the beauty of which initially tends to zero. For those interested, I have entries in my journal about knives whose handles are made of more noble materials and processed in the same way.
Let's call the first stage preparatory - the surface of the product is prepared for coating. Those. made as smooth as possible. Everything is clear here - sandpaper and a lot of patience. But, as in the simplest matter, there are some tricks. Like, for example, the number of sandpaper. It determines the size of the abrasive grain and, if memory serves, is measured in the number of sieve cells per square centimeter through which the abrasive is sifted. Those. paper with the number 40 is very “angry”, and with the number 600 it is “soft”, reaching a soft velvet of 2500 units, which is used for polishing.
The first rule is that the denser the wood, the more carefully the processing should be and the higher the number of the final paper should be. The paper numbers should differ approximately 2 times from each other. Those. something like this: 40 -> 80 -> 150 -> 300 -> 600 -> 1200 -> 2500. Which one to start with and which one to stop at is decided experimentally; for crafts such as furniture, it’s enough to stop at about the 300th number.
The second rule is that each subsequent sandpaper must completely remove the risks from the previous one. And nothing else. From here we can draw a conclusion about the quality of the paper itself. Just a few grains of a larger abrasive dropped onto a sheet of paper can leave noticeable marks on the surface that cannot be erased with the same sheet. But this is rather for fanatics of perfect finishing.
Rule number three - when processing surfaces, try not to keep the sandpaper “on your finger.” If it is large, then you can easily wipe out an unplanned recess on a small part or roll the necessary edge. Therefore, in such cases, it is easier to wrap it around an object of suitable size (even the same pencil) a couple of times and use it like a file.
Another important point in technology - raising the pile. The surface of the wood, no matter how smooth it is sanded, will fluff a little when wet. Thin fibers rise like stubble and, when dry, remain standing as dry stubble. The same thing will happen when covering the surface with varnish, stain or something else. Therefore, you just need to moisten the surface with water (with a rag or from a spray bottle), let it dry and go through it again with fine sandpaper (approximately 800-1000 number), removing hairs. If necessary, the operation can be repeated until the hairs stop rising after wetting. Instead of water, you can use more volatile things - alcohol or vodka.
Now the surface is ready for finishing. More about this next time.
For example, one of my knives, the handle of which was processed almost according to the technology described.
Scandinavian Mjollnir. The handle is made of elk horn, oak root, amboyna, fiber and brass as decoration.
Furniture board- sheet material obtained by gluing wooden blocks. It is produced in the form of rectangular or square sheets, 10-50 millimeters thick.
If you decide to use painted or varnished furniture board in your interior, when purchasing you need to take into account that its surface should be smooth, without gouges, chips and darkening. It must be stored under proper conditions. To guarantee that you get the highest quality material, it is better to buy it from the manufacturer: https://angara-plus.ru/products/mebelnyy-shchit-listvennica/. You can opt for the “Extra” grade - in this case, you will get the best material.
Preparing furniture panels for finishing
Regardless of which finishing option you choose, there are techniques that will help prepare the surface of the furniture panel for painting or varnishing:
- Sanding. Allows you to remove unevenness and roughness. At the end of the process, you need to carefully remove dust.
- Detarring. The surface of pine furniture boards must be treated with a special compound. Otherwise, the coating will lie unevenly, and resin drips will darken over time and ruin appearance products.
- Puttying- hides various defects: chips, potholes, knots.
- Padding. The furniture panel is treated with a primer, which helps strengthen the surface and make it more uniform, which facilitates the uniform application of finishing materials.
How to paint and varnish furniture panels
Having prepared the surface and allowed it to dry thoroughly, you can begin painting or varnishing. The finishing process consists of several stages:
- The first layer of varnish or paint is applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. The coating is dried.
- After painting or varnishing, the so-called “pile” – the smallest fibers of wood – always rises. They need to be removed to get a perfectly flat surface. To do this, you can use sandpaper with a grit of at least 160 units.
- A second layer of varnish or paint is applied and dried.
- The surface is lightly sanded again.
- Another layer is applied and dried again.