Raspberry leaves drying treatment. For what reason do raspberries dry on the site along with the berries? Viral disease raspberry curl

Why do the tops of young shoots wither in raspberries?

Because it got started in the overgrowth raspberry fly. It is necessary to cut out young shoots with drooping tops right down to the ground and burn them, and not throw them anywhere. Otherwise, the pest will come out of the shoots and begin to cause further damage.

Why do raspberries produce many young shoots, but they do not grow?

This is a viral disease called "witch's broom". If you dig up such a bush, you will find that its roots form a broom. The bush must be dug up and burned before the leafhoppers spread the disease throughout all the bushes.

Why do the tops of raspberry shoots curl?

If they are huddled together in a dense cap, most likely, aphids have settled there or laid their eggs. Unfold the folded leaves and you will see it. The easiest way is to cut off and burn the tops.

But the cause may also be a viral disease, which is called raspberry curl. It usually affects all leaves, not just those at the ends of branches. They look wrinkled, tight, twisted. The berries dry out while still green. The bushes must be immediately removed and burned.

If the raspberry leaves turn yellow-green, what is it missing?

She has enough of everything. Yellow-green mosaic of raspberry leaves is a viral disease. The bushes need to be dug up and burned. For 4 years, raspberries cannot be planted in the place where there were bushes that were infected with viral diseases. But if you change the soil after you have dug up and destroyed the diseased plant, you can plant a healthy bush in its place the same year.

Why do young raspberry shoots wither?

Because a larva has settled in them raspberry fly. It gnaws a hole in the raspberry stem, which causes wilting. Such drooping shoots should be cut to the ground and burned.

Why do good green shoots with flowers and berries suddenly dry up completely along with the berries in the middle of summer?

The reason may be gall midge Look closely at raspberry stems in the fall after they have shed their leaves and in early spring when the leaves have not yet unfurled. At this time, thickenings called galls are clearly visible on the stems. They contain gall midge larvae. Such stems must be cut down to the very soil, leaving no stumps, and burned.

Another reason may be one of the fungal diseases, in particular purple spotting of stems. It begins with the appearance of red-brown spots on the leaves, which then dry out. If this phenomenon repeats for you every year, in the spring, spray the young leaves, then the buds, and after harvesting the raspberries with zircon. Cut out dried branches without waiting for autumn, since the spores of the fungus that causes the disease will spread to new young shoots, and they will go away sick before winter. Next year they will definitely dry up right in the middle of summer.

A completely banal reason cannot be ruled out - lack of moisture. Raspberries have a shallow root system; in addition, they are a very moisture-loving crop. So water, water, water and mulch. It is especially good to mulch raspberries with mud from weed infusion. And if there is fresh manure, then it is even better to flood the plantings with slurry. The fact is that raspberries are nitrogen lovers, but prefer organic nitrogen rather than mineral nitrogen, so don’t be too zealous in feeding it with urea.

What to feed raspberries in spring?

You can feed it with azofoska, or even better - with ecophoska (3 tbsp per 10 liters of water, spending 1 liter of solution per bush). But, as already mentioned, it is best to feed raspberries with an infusion of manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. If you have bird droppings, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:20. Or use weed infusion, which can be diluted 1:5.

The same fertilizing can be given at the very beginning of fruiting. But after fruiting, nitrogen should no longer be given. The bushes need to be fed only with phosphorus and potassium (2 tbsp. double granulated superphosphate and 1 tbsp. potash fertilizer per 10 liters of water).

Don’t forget to add ash under the roots after each nitrogen fertilizing (one cup per plant), because raspberries do not like acidic soils, and all nitrogen-containing fertilizers (except sodium, potassium, calcium nitrate), on the contrary, acidify the soil.

In mid-summer, red, then blackening edges appeared on the leaves. The berries are dry. What could this be and how to deal with it?

Most likely it is a fungal disease anthracnose Spray all new shoots (especially stems) with zircon, which perfectly helps to cope with the disease. Cut out the fruiting shoots and burn them. If raspberries become infected with any disease, old fruit-bearing stems should not be left to overwinter with young shoots. After fruiting has finished, spray all raspberries again with zircon.

There is probably a gray coating on the leaves and even the berries. powdery mildew. How can you help raspberries, since they are in the midst of fruiting?

It's really powdery mildew. Water all raspberries weekly directly at the crown with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Typically, powdery mildew rages on virtually all crops during cold, wet summers. So if the weather is like this, do not wait for an outbreak of the disease, but preventively douse the plants with at least potassium permanganate.

Is it necessary to bend down raspberry shoots for the winter?

If your region has very harsh winters, you should.

If the temperature is above 6°C, it is not worth it, since raspberries have fragile stems, and at more than low temperatures you will break them.

It is better to bend the bushes, tying them in a bunch and tilting the bunches towards each other.

If the winters are not too severe (not lower than 20°), it is easier to tie each raspberry bush with a broom and even together with old stems (provided that there was no disease on them). They will not break under the weight of snow, as sometimes happens with raspberries pinned to the ground. Old stems will hold snow and insulate young shoots. There are, however, modern varieties that can be left for the winter if they are simply tied to a trellis - otherwise they, too, may break under the weight of snow.

There are a lot of worms in raspberries. Is it possible to eat such wormy berries and is it possible to get rid of the worms?

The berries contain the larva of the raspberry beetle, the most prolific pest of raspberries.

The beetle's flight occurs at the time of cherry blossom. It, like the weevil, gnaws a hole in the bud and lays an egg there. The hatching larva feeds on the growing ovary and thereby spoils the berry. The female beetle continues to lay eggs on young ovaries, so the raspberry beetle carries out its pest activity from May to the end of July.

The simplest defense is to shake the beetle onto the litter and squeeze. The beetles are mobile only at temperatures above 15°, so early in the morning they are easy to deal with.

You can treat raspberries at the time of cherry blossom with karbofos, covering your mouth and nose with a scarf.

At the end of July, the larvae pupate in the soil until next year, so we need to prevent them from getting to the ground, and we ourselves help them get into the soil during berry picking. Karbofos, naturally, cannot be used from the moment the bushes flower, especially during fruiting.

The container should have a bottom without holes (if it is a basket, line the bottom with fabric). The berries should be cut with scissors along with the peduncle. When you free the berries from the stalk, be sure to throw them into a trash can with water so that the larvae die.

You can eat berries, but it is unpleasant. Therefore, pour lightly salted water over the berries freed from the stalks - the larvae will float to the surface, and you will pour them along with the water into a trash can. This water, of course, cannot be poured under the raspberries.

selskaja-zhizn.ru/2581.htm

Dried leaves in a raspberry garden are an alarm bell. Basically, this is how the activity of pests manifests itself, when severe defeat We have to renew entire raspberry fields. Leaves also dry out due to diseases or errors in agricultural technology.

Dry leaves in raspberries can appear for various reasons, namely:

Harmful insects: stem and raspberry gall midges;
Purple spotting;
Cancer of the root system, when there are convex growths on the roots, similar to swellings;
Severe winter, during frosts the root system is damaged;
Dry soil, raspberries react painfully to it, the leaves immediately dry out;
The appearance of aphids on shoots leads to yellowing and death of foliage;
Lack of nutrition can cause foliage to dry out;
Thickened plantings also lead to yellowing of leaves;
In the shade, raspberries that love the sun will be depressed, and the leaves will gradually begin to dry out.

First aid for raspberries

The greatest danger to the health of raspberries is posed by raspberry and stem gall midges. Insect larvae live under the bark in entire armies, the result of their activity is swelling and thickening on raspberry stems. At first, such stems turn blue-violet, then they swell and the bark splits at the point of swelling. Such swellings are usually quite large, 2-4 cm, and are located closer to the ground. Damaged stems are visible after the snow melts. they are cut out at ground level and burned.

It is important to cut the stems at ground level, without leaving stumps that other pests may choose as an apartment..

If the shoots begin to wither and turn yellow, root canker is most likely to blame. The disease gradually affects the entire root system and the leaves, and with them the shoots, dry up.

Purple spotting is also one of the unpleasant diseases raspberries The stems become covered with chaotic spots, the leaves wither and dry out. Such stems are also cut out, and the raspberry tree is treated with a solution of karbofos, including the soil under the bushes.

How to prevent raspberry leaves from drying out

In order for raspberry leaves to be strong and healthy, you need to follow a number of measures to care for the plantings. For a raspberry garden, you need to choose a sunny place, it should be well ventilated.

Several times a season they are treated against pests with drugs such as actellik and karbofos. Solutions need to be alternated so that insects do not get used to them.

The distance between plants should be at least half a meter so that all the bushes have enough food. The soil must be nutritious; spring mulching with fresh horse manure is allowed. In addition, ash, bone meal, compost and long-acting fertilizer with a full set of nutrients are added to the soil during planting.

When growing raspberries, at least three feedings are carried out per season, two of them should be nitrogen, this can be an infusion of grass, and one should be potassium-phosphorus. Before applying fertilizer, raspberry plantings are watered.

Raspberries are responsive to fertilizing; to prevent dried leaves, foliar fertilizing with herb infusion is carried out.

If dried leaves suddenly appear, inspect the soil under the raspberries. If burrows or passages of mole crickets are found, poison is placed in them.

If pests are detected on the leaves, the raspberries are treated with karbofos, clear weather and evening time are chosen.

How to grow prolific raspberries

Raspberries are a fast-growing crop, so when serious diseases are detected, diseased bushes are carefully dug up.

Try to purchase seedlings from reliable nurseries. Inspect the plant carefully; it should have green, developed leaves and a stem without damage.

To prevent rust and other fungal diseases, in the spring before the soil blooms, the raspberry plant is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture. The surrounding soil is also sprayed.

Diseased stems are cut out in a timely manner so that the infection does not spread to healthy bushes.

Many summer residents are concerned with the question of why raspberries dry out. It is known that raspberries are a low-winter-hardy crop. In Siberia, raspberries (and blackberries) winter well only under snow. In addition to freezing, it suffers from damping out and drying out of the tissues. To preserve the harvest, you need to take measures: water, protect from cold, replace the variety, replant the raspberries, prune and properly care for them.

When do raspberries dry?

Raspberry stems dry out in the fall and winter, when temperatures fluctuate and can drop sharply when cold winds blow on the exposed shoots.

5 reasons why raspberries dry out

In autumn, with a sharp change in weather: early snow, which then melts, rain and snow.
In autumn, when the temperature drops sharply to 20°C.
In places with little snow, if winter is accompanied by strong winds.
During thaws, as well as from strong winds, when the shoots thaw but the soil remains frozen.
When snow melts early, as a result of strong wind drying of both shoots and soil.
In spring, drying out occurs due to low air humidity and strong winds.

Those who suffer the most are:

weakly ripened shoots,
new planting with weak roots (especially if the plants were not watered immediately after the soil thawed),
old bushes.

How do raspberry shoots dry?

If raspberry bushes dry out, they grow late and slowly, the entire shoot or a significant part of it dies - up to 100%.

The outer covering tissues may crack along the entire length of the stem (or partially),
the exposed cambial zone is green but dry;
the buds are also green, but dry and do not develop.
The wood of the shoots does not turn brown, as happens when it freezes.

_______________________________________________

What to do if raspberries dry out?

1. Water

Raspberries are an exceptionally moisture-loving crop; watering is important in agricultural technology.

Raspberries are watered frequently as the top layer of soil dries.
Raspberries should be watered especially often immediately after planting and in the spring, regardless of temperature.

2. Replace variety or replant

If desiccation occurs systematically -

replace the variety
or select another site.

Large-fruited raspberry varieties with thornless shoots suffer more from desiccation.

Large-fruited varieties proved to be resistant to desiccation Beauty of Russia And Sturdy . Read more about the 30 best large-fruited raspberry varieties in

Of the varieties with thorny shoots, they have proven to be resistant old varieties of Altai selection , from large-fruited ones – Yellow giant And Phenomenon .

3. Trim and shape

If the case is episodic -

In the spring, as early as possible, the bushes are watered to speed up regrowth.
After watering, remove the unrecovered above-ground part,
form new shoots
Raspberries should be watered in dry weather and fed with complex fertilizer.

_____________________________________________

Many gardeners who grow raspberries on their plots often encounter the fact that the foliage of the bushes begins to turn yellow prematurely, and the shoots, for no apparent reason, begin to dry out. A clear answer why this phenomenon affected plants is impossible, but some factors can be identified.

Raspberry is a fruit-bearing shrub, which, like many others garden plants susceptible to all kinds of diseases. Most often, you can tell that a raspberry is unhealthy by looking at its foliage: it turns yellowish, dries out, and in some cases curls. In most cases, it is possible to rid a bush of these ailments with complex treatment, but prevention, as many know, is better than cure.

Causes of raspberries drying out

The drying process is called dieback syndrome. The main cause of raspberry stem dieback syndrome is damage to shoot gall midges and infection with phytopathogenic fungi that cause diseases. The death of the stems is manifested in the fact that after overwintering, all or individual buds, part of the stems or entire stems grow weakly, their growth is greatly retarded, or they wither before fruiting. Severely damaged and affected stems dry out and die. The process is especially intensified in dry years. Often the syndrome leads to the loss of up to 60% of stems and about 70-80% of buds. Young plantings cannot begin to bear fruit normally.

This syndrome is facilitated by physiological cracking of young stems during their development, which allows the spread of shoot gall midge larvae and a complex of phytopathogenic fungi. Cracking of stems increases due to lack of moisture in the soil or uneven plant growth accelerated by fertilizers. In such cases, mulching the soil is useful.

It protects plant roots and delays cracking for more late dates. In this case, cracks in the stems become accessible only the latest generations shoot gall midges, when the most critical period for damage and destruction of raspberries has passed, and the plants themselves acquire physiological resistance to fungi. Mulching, of course, can significantly improve the growth of stems, but at the same time they do not ripen well in waterlogged conditions, lose frost resistance, and the damage to plants by gray rot is activated, which is one of the factors of death. Various types of mechanical damage can also serve as a gateway to infection. At the same time, growth cracks and mechanical damage in the absence of gall midges and fungi are overgrown. For this reason, the raspberry shoot gall midge plays a key role in the development of stem dieback. Its larvae destroy the periderm, the main barrier to the penetration of phytopathogenic fungi into the internal tissues of the stem. In case of severe infection by fungi, ulcers from the feeding of numerous larvae can ring the stem, disrupting sap flow and causing its death. In addition, as a result of damage to the cambium, growth stops in places of damage, depressions are formed, which can cause the stem to break off.

Raspberry pests

Raspberry shoot gall midge is the most dangerous pest of this crop. In the spring, insects lay eggs in crevices in the bark of the plant. Larvae develop from them white. While feeding, the larvae secrete toxic substances that cause the formation of galls - swellings, and the bark becomes severely cracked. The growth of raspberries slows down due to damage, the shoots dry out and break under strong gusts of wind. Over time, the larvae fall to the ground, wrap themselves in cocoons and grow into adult insects. In one season, the pest can go through three development cycles. To combat it, it is necessary to destroy infected shoots in the summer, when the larvae are most numerous. It is also recommended to spray the soil under the bushes twice with a 0.15-0.3% chlorophos solution. This is done the first time when the soil warms up to +13 °C, before the insects fly out, and again 10 days after the first spraying.

How to treat raspberries, when and how against gall midges

Treatment of raspberries against shoot gall midges is carried out in the spring, before emergence occurs. It is important to have the event on time, otherwise secondary infection will occur. Treatments are carried out in late to mid-April, when the soil warms up to +10...+12 C. When using modern means of protection, carefully read the instructions: the temperature at which the drug is effective should be indicated.

The shoots are sprayed, especially in the lower part, the tree trunk circle, and the green parts, especially the lower tiers, are thoroughly treated. Processing is carried out after collection.

Before flowering, they are treated with drugs of the peritoid group, with a wide spectrum of action - insecticides Karate, Calypso 480 KS, Mospilan 20 SP, as well as Konfidor, Iskra, Arivo, etc.

Of the old products, not very recommended due to high toxicity - 0.75% solution of karbafos, as well as fufanon, decis, BI-58. It is strictly not recommended to use higher concentrations, especially for repeated treatments. Treatment with Bordeaux mixture is also often recommended - it is not always effective.

When using all drugs, it is important to remember the high toxicity of any of them. Carefully weigh the harm from losses and the harm that can be caused by frequent, uncontrolled, excessive use of drugs. It’s easier to change the planting material, cut out the plantation at the roots - believe me, this is the most effective method with mass distribution, rather than spending money on ineffective or expensive drugs.

Raspberry diseases

Phytopathogenic fungi are a special group of plant pathogens. They are characterized by a simple structure and very small sizes (tens or hundreds of millimicrons). Viruses consist of protein and nucleic acid, do not have cells, envelopes, or protoplasm, and have a stable circulation in nature. The source of the viral infection is infected planting material, and during the growing season it is spread by carriers - insects (aphids, leafhoppers) and mites.

Once on the plant, viruses multiply and cause sudden changes in metabolism. Viruses are so closely associated with the host plant that it is very difficult to combat them, since substances that destroy viruses are also toxic to plants. Therefore, the main measures to protect berry growers from viral diseases are preventative (growing healthy planting material, destroying vectors).

The use of chemicals in protecting raspberries

The chemical method of protection is the most dangerous in environmental, sanitary and hygienic terms. It is necessary to strive for minimal use of pesticides, using previously environmentally friendly (pesticide-free) options for crop protection. With the correct selection and preparation of the site, the use of healthy, high-grade planting material, and the observance of agricultural technology for raspberries, it is possible to completely abandon pesticides or not use them for a number of years. The minimal use of pesticides is facilitated by the possibility of combining treatment periods against various pests and diseases. In particular, eradication treatment with 2% nitrafen in early spring is a universal measure against shoot gall midges, bud moths, aphids, mites, and fungal diseases.

And eradicating treatments with 7% urea and 4% Bordeaux mixture are very effective against fungal diseases at the same time, but have little effect on harmful insects and mites. Currently, a variety of drugs are available for retail sale. Not all advertised pesticides are approved for use, that is, tested and safe on raspberries. In particular, insecticides that are widely distributed in trade such as Decis, Inta-VIR, Ambush, Tsimbush, as well as fungicides - Arcerid, Polycarbacin, Oxychome, Topsin-M, Tilt on raspberries are not allowed for use. On fruit-bearing raspberries, you cannot use such fungicides as Bayleton, Ridomil, Fundazol, Euparen, Topaz and insecticides - phosphamide (Rogor, Bi-58), Fozalon, Karate, Mitak, Neoron. However, in non-fruit-bearing plantings, in raspberry nurseries and mother plants, these drugs are allowed and can be effective. The following pesticides are most often used on raspberries: actellik, karbofos, neoron, nitrafen, sulfur, Bordeaux mixture.

Safety measures when working with pesticides are generally accepted for other crops.

This phenomenon is not uncommon. Visions of a rich harvest are in vain - most of the berries can simply dry out along with the inflorescences and even shoots.

Is the gall midge to blame?

The tops along with the berries may dry out due to gall midge infestation. You need to carefully examine the shoots. If there are swellings or suspicious cracks (stem gall midge), then such shoots must be cut out, since it is no longer possible to spray bushes with berries. The shoots must be cut down to the ground, leaving no stumps.

The raspberry fly also causes harm in a similar way. Its larvae gnaw out shoots from the inside. They are also sent to the fire along with the affected stems.

Long time no see

The optimal age of a raspberry plant is 4-5 years. It is undesirable for bushes to “sit” in one place any longer. You can easily run into “withering” (verticillium wilt). The causative agent of the disease is located in the soil and penetrates the roots through various mechanical damage. The disease manifests itself in dry, hot weather. The leaves turn yellow and fall off, the shoots acquire a dark blue or purple color.

The shoots gradually die, starting from the tops and berries. Bush over time too. The disease kills slowly, over a couple of years, then spreads to young bushes.

They fight it only with agricultural technology - changing the place for raspberries every four to five years. There is no need to plant raspberries after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers, and strawberries. For replanting, use only healthy plants that have been marked in advance.

How much water do you need?

The reason for drying out of berries can be the most commonplace - lack of moisture. If apple trees drop their harvest in response to this, then raspberries will dry up. We must always remember that raspberry roots are superficial; do not let the soil dry out and crack.

It is advisable to mulch it with sand, or even better, with manure.

Manure is better for a simple reason. Raspberries are nitrogen-loving. Moreover, it requires not mineral, but organic manure. Simply adding saltpeter or urea is not enough for it. You need to sprinkle aromatic fertilizer between the rows. Then the soil will not dry out so much and the tops will not dry out due to lack of nitrogen.

Where are the microelements

Foliar fertilizing with microelements can also serve as a preventative against drying out of berries. For example, boric acid will prevent the growth points (that is, the tops) from dying off. Spraying with small concentrations (5 g per 10 liters of water) will only benefit the crop.

New from users

Who can eat your eggplants

The most famous pest of eggplants is the Colorado potato beetle. He used to eat it much faster than potatoes. Nose...

Garden passions: spots began to appear on the trees...

Apple and pear scab It so happened that at first my garden consisted of only apple trees. The biggest problem was...

Is it possible to collect 5 kg of raspberries from a bush?

A good raspberry harvest is considered to be 300-500 kg per hundred square meters. Considering the planting pattern of 70 x 150 cm, it is easy to calculate that...