Field bindweed (colloquially birch) is a climbing perennial. The plant looks harmless, one might say, very cute, but it is very difficult to fight. If you suddenly find this plant on your site, then you will immediately have a question about how to get rid of the loach in the garden. But only regular work will help rid the area of the weed forever, and besides, you won’t be able to get rid of it quickly either. Fighting him is long and difficult.
This plant is very common and can be found in all corners of our country. The loach has a well-branched root system, going 6 meters deep into the earth. The stem is highly branched and spreads along the ground. The length of the stem can be about 3 meters. Delicate flowers of white or slightly pinkish color have the shape of a gramophone trumpet.
Spreading
Birch simply loves forest clearings, undeveloped, abandoned, littered areas, or those places that have not been touched for a long time. The main thing for her is that the soil is sandy or loamy and the weather is warm. The hotter the summer, the more Birches will appear on your site.
Reproduction
Loach gives large number seeds that easily germinate from a depth of about 20 cm, so its propagation occurs by self-sowing.
Harm
You need to start fighting the birch tree as soon as its appearance on the site is noticed, and not allow it to come to its senses. Otherwise, one single bush can create a big problem. An innocent loach bush is growing rapidly. Its young shoots quickly conquer territory for themselves, entwine everything that can be entwined, like dodder, including garden crops, inhibit their growth, interfere with their full development, contribute to their lodging and death. Now let's move on to how to deal with bindweed.
Ways to fight
This weed can be controlled in several ways:
Chemical
If the field loach has colonized the area very densely, then it is better to use herbicides that effectively destroy it to combat it. But we must remember that a single treatment with chemicals will not do anything. To achieve the desired result, bindweed must be treated with herbicides several times..
The following drugs will help you get rid of bindweed more effectively than others:
- Lintur;
Treatment should be carried out during the flowering of the weed, since during this period the most active influx of nutrients occurs into the root system. The product should be applied pointwise, separately to each bush. But it is better to use herbicides only after the entire crop has been harvested.
Mechanical
As you know, radical measures should be resorted to only in extreme cases, and it is better to use environmentally friendly methods of weed control.
To get rid of loaches, you can use the simplest and most ancient method - mechanical. In other words, pull out the weed by the roots. To prevent the root from breaking off (the root system of the plant is very long), it is better to use a shovel. With its help, you can more effectively extract the roots of the loach from the ground.
Removed parts of the plant must be removed from the site.
If bindweed has become thoroughly established in your garden, taking over large areas, then you should dig up the garden deeply, carefully selecting all the roots that come across. This should be done in the fall or early spring, when nothing has been planted there yet. Then, with a thick rake, you need to collect even very small particles of the roots extracted to the surface of the earth, so as not to give them the opportunity to germinate again in the ground.
If the garden is already planted, and the field bindweed loudly declares its presence, then daily weeding will help you. In this case, it is necessary to collect all the crushed parts of the weed. It is better to burn roots, stems with seeds and all parts of the plant to prevent them from starting new life. But how to get rid of bindweed without much physical exertion?
Mulching
The area clogged with birch trees is covered with any material that does not transmit light:
- roofing felt;
- covering material;
- other available means.
In such conditions, it will be very difficult for the weed to survive, and it will die from lack of sunlight. It is not advisable to plant any garden crops in this place until next spring. Stems without seeds can be used in the garden as mulch, but there is a danger that they will sprout again. You need to keep a close eye on this. There is another advantage to this method. It has long been noted that trees mulched with loach get sick much less often. The result is a double benefit: we get rid of the weed and the trees feel better. However, mulching does not help everyone:
Perennial herbs
Mustard effectively fights unwanted vegetation, which is even necessary to plant. The mustard grows actively and will not allow the birch to break out through its thickets. In addition, mustard will also destroy other pests along the way, of which there are a great many that settle in the loach thickets. Bluegrass or fescue can give the same effect. These perennials produce dense growth that will inhibit the growth of bindweed.
Alkalinization
Bindweed really likes acidic soil. Therefore, in order to alkalize the soil and create uncomfortable conditions for the birch tree, the ground can be treated with ash.
Liming
In autumn, the soil can be limed. This is done in moderate doses, and in the absence of any plantings on the site.
Saline solution
A good effect in the fight against bindweed is obtained by treating it saline solution. To prepare it, you need to take 10 liters of water and dissolve 1 to 1.5 kg of salt in it. The resulting solution should be used to treat the areas where the weed grows. But we must remember that this method can negatively affect the condition of the soil.
Dealing with loaches is a troublesome and difficult task. This requires a lot of effort and material costs. And even when you get rid of the birch tree, you should not relax. You need to carefully monitor the area and clean it in time, otherwise the plant will take over your area again. Be patient and good luck!
The persistent garden weed spreads very quickly, capturing usable area vegetable garden While its cultivated “relative” is distinguished by good decorative properties, field bindweed is better known as a weed. In different regions it is called “birch”, “loach”, “dodder” and even “almond grass”.
It is widespread in most regions of our country, tolerates even harsh winters well and is famous rapid growth and reproduction. What to do if such an uninvited guest entered the site, as well as the main methods of dealing with it are described in the information in our article.
Harm
A plant that is beautiful in principle can cause a lot of trouble for the gardener. The roots of bindweed are very strong, capable of growing to a depth of three meters, producing a large number of layerings.
It is very difficult to exterminate it manually, especially since the plant quickly recovers, striking in its viability. It completely covers the entire possible territory, getting along well in any climatic conditions
During a season, one plant can produce up to a thousand seeds, the germination of which lasts up to five years. Most often, you can bring bindweed to your site using organic fertilizer (manure), as well as together with other plants. But how to defeat wheatgrass on a site, and what means should be used, is outlined in the article on
Bindweed spreads extremely quickly, drowning out cultural plantings. By entwining the stem of a nearby crop, this weed knocks down the plant under its weight, and also contributes to the impoverishment of the soil, absorbing all the nutrients and moisture.
Despite these characteristics, bindweed is also famous medicinal properties, for example, is used in the treatment of asthma and lung diseases. Mulching the soil with shoots helps disinfect it, which is also used in organic farming. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seed parts of the shoots are not used for mulch, otherwise the fight against the weed will be endless. It will also be useful to learn about how to destroy and what means of destruction are the fastest.
Prevention
It is quite difficult to protect your area from bindweed penetration. First of all, it is worth noting that it grows best on sandy and sandy loam soils with high acidity levels. Loves bindweed and depleted soils, especially those that have been empty for a long time and not occupied by cereal crops.
The following methods are suitable as preventive measures:
- Regular plowing and digging of the site. It is especially important to do this late in the season to expose the roots before winter. On an industrial scale, soil peeling, which is carried out three times per season, has proven to be very effective. In this way you can
Digging up the site
- Planting green manure plants. The best choice is mustard, planting which will drown out all the weeds. Suitable analogues include fescue, bluegrass, and legumes. They form a fairly dense layer of turf through which bindweed simply cannot break through. For example, such green manure as.
Fescue planting
- Soil liming. The method is ineffective, but the practical experience of gardeners suggests that it can be combined with other measures. When liming, mineral fertilizers are also often used, because bindweed prefers soils that are poorer in elements. Here's how to use limestone: ammonium nitrate, and what results can be achieved are outlined in this
Soil liming
Most of all, the birch tree loves abandoned places, open areas garden and well-lit parts of it. By using the entire usable area of your garden, you can ensure that the weed simply has nowhere to grow and reproduce. For maximum effective fight You can use one or a combination of several methods presented below.
How to remove from the site, garden
All methods used can be classified into mechanical and chemical. Everyone chooses the one that is most suitable for themselves, or you can combine them together. In the case of bindweed, the area of distribution is also important, because some procedures are simply not intended for large fields.
Mechanical methods of weed control:
Video shows how to remove field bindweed:
Mechanical methods of getting rid of weeds can be considered the most labor-intensive and time-consuming. A one-time result will quickly disappear if you do not weed regularly. The rapid growth rate and active reproduction make the birch a serious opponent, so if constant control is impossible, other methods of control will come to the rescue.
Field bindweed is a climbing plant that blooms with beautiful pale pink or snow-white corollas. In the wild we would admire him. However, once on our plots, bindweed turns into an evil weed, preventing us from getting good harvests. There are many methods to combat it, but probably not a single one to destroy it forever.
Why is field bindweed dangerous in the garden?
Any hill or even a blade of grass is suitable for bindweed as a support. The stems entwine and pull together the young shoots cultivated plants, do not allow them to grow up and develop. Roots pump food and water out of the ground. The bindweed lashes grow in a thick cap; with their foliage they can completely cover the plant that has become a support from sunlight, which leads to impaired photosynthesis and starvation.
It turns out that bindweed successfully competes with other plants for a place in the sun and food. In addition, this weed in the phase when it has already grown and entwined, for example, potatoes, cannot be quickly pulled out and removed. It will have to be unwound from the bushes like a rope. If you simply pull it out from the ground and pull it, the leaves and stems of the potato will be damaged. In addition, such a loach weaves the bushes together, the row spacing becomes impassable. While digging potatoes, work is added: walking with scissors and cutting living bindweed bonds. A similar picture is observed in beds with other vegetables, on bushes and trees.
Effective ways to combat bindweed
There are several ways to combat bindweed, but they all require persistence. No one has ever managed to get rid of such a weed in one go and completely.
- Stop digging up the soil with a motorized cultivator! Convolvulus has a long root - 3–6 m; every centimeter has a dormant bud. Using a walk-behind tractor, you chop the root into pieces and spread it throughout the garden, that is, you propagate it yourself. For the same reason, it is not advisable to dig with a shovel. It is better to use a pitchfork or even refuse to dig, as lovers of natural farming advise.
- Do not allow bindweed to bloom. Its flower is formed in the axil of each leaf. One plant can produce a thousand seeds that remain viable for up to 4 years!
Do not allow bindweed to bloom, weed it out earlier, otherwise it will multiply exponentially
- Weed it out regularly, do not let it grow into a powerful vine. By tearing or cutting off the growing vine, you disrupt an important process - photosynthesis. The root does not receive nutrition from the leaves and becomes depleted. The more often you remove the aboveground part, the more the root is depleted. In the end he will die.
Regularly cut off the aerial parts to deplete the root
- Cover the beds with thick black film. Plant cultivated plants in the slots. Without light, bindweed dies in two seasons. In the first year it will still grow. An alternative to film can be a thick layer of mulch - 10–15 cm.
Grow crops on light-proof film
- In early spring, sow green manure: mustard, phacelia, rapeseed. They are more cold-resistant than bindweed, sprout earlier, and develop lush greenery. By the time bindweed appears, the ground will already be completely covered with a thick green mass, which naturally inhibits the weed and prevents it from developing. Plant sunflowers and corn along the fence. Their powerful and branched root system will not allow bindweed to break through to the surface.
Sow green manure, they grow in a dense carpet, preventing weeds from reaching the light
- Improve soil structure. Bindweed loves acidic soil with iron deficiency. This means that ash, dolomite flour or lime, as well as iron preparations (Ferovit, iron chelate, iron sulfate) need to be added to the ground.
Reduce soil acidity with dolomite flour
- Experience folk recipe: dilute 1.5 kg oxen in 10 liters table salt, lubricate or spray bindweed leaves. It is advisable to do this in hot weather. The above-ground part will dry out, but the root will remain in the ground. The method is an alternative to weeding. By soaking the leaves in a saline solution and destroying them in this way, you will gradually deplete the root.
If there are few bindweeds, each can be smeared with a salt solution or herbicide
- And only as a last resort, use herbicides such as Roundup, Lintur, Tornado and other glyphosates. They lead to the death of both the above-ground part and the root. However, even with chemicals it is not possible to completely remove bindweed. At least one small piece of root with a dormant bud will remain. You will have to treat with herbicides several times, but even after that, the development of bindweed will only stop for 1–3 years.
The best known glyphosate (root penetrating herbicide) is Roundup
You can choose one of the methods or several, but it is better to fight comprehensively and fight the enemy on all fronts.
Video: ways to control weeds
I also had a lot of bindweed in my area. Now you can’t even see him on the fence. Found in garden beds, but rarely. I don’t know what exactly helped. I didn’t set a goal to fight it specifically, I just became interested in natural farming. I refused to dig up the soil; every year in the early spring I loosen it and sow green manure.
Last year, using litmus test, I discovered that the soil in my garden was acidic. And for her plants, without thinking about bindweed, she added dolomite flour to the ground. This year I chlorinated the strawberries and fed them with iron chelate. There is not a single bindweed on the strawberries; there are still some on the potatoes.
I constantly pull out weeds along the fence, for me it’s a tribute to my neighbors. I sow oats there, it suppresses any weeds well. It turns out that you can breed bindweed without thinking about it at all, but simply by taking care of your land, making it more suitable for growing cultivated plants rather than weeds.
The most reliable tool in the fight against any weed is your persistence. You will have to demonstrate it throughout the entire coexistence of you and your site. Best option- do not get hung up on bindweed, but lovingly and efficiently care for your garden, knowing and taking into account the characteristics of all the plants in it, including bindweed.
Weed control is never easy. At the same time, among the many weeds there are biological groups, working with which requires a particularly careful approach. No wonder they are called difficult to eradicate. This is especially true for perennial weeds, the root system of which goes deep into the subsoil horizons.
In one of the previous issues of the magazine, we published an article by our Russian readers and authors from the Altai Research Institute of Agriculture - Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Grigory Stetsov and junior researcher at the Plant Protection Laboratory Natalia Sadovnikova. The material was devoted to the fight against milkweed, a weed that today thrives on millions of hectares of arable land in Kazakhstan and neighboring regions of Russia. The article aroused great interest among our farmers and, we hope, helped many to choose the right strategy and tactics for combating this weed. Today we publish new article authors, dedicated to the fight against another no less harmful weed - field bindweed. Questions about how to effectively combat this weed were often asked in letters and calls from our readers.
Field bindweed (povilel, birch) Convolvulus arvensis L.- a perennial root shoot plant, comes from the Mediterranean, where it is used as an ornamental and medicinal purposes. For the same purposes, in the 18th century they began to import it to other regions, where it quickly acclimatized and became a weed. Field bindweed penetrated into Western Siberia and the regions of Northern Kazakhstan along with settlers in late XIX century.
The main damage from bindweed is usually associated with the fact that it entwines crop stems and causes lodging of crops, reduces yield and complicates harvesting. The bindweed grows until late autumn, and the green mass ends up in the grain heap, requiring additional cleaning costs. It consumes the same nutrients as cultivated plants. In addition, the green mass of bindweed causes poisoning in horses.
We believe that in dry conditions the main harm of bindweed lies elsewhere. With such a powerful root system, it is not afraid of drought. And while the roots of annual cultivated plants reach (if they reach) moistened horizons, the roots of the bindweed are already there, consuming moisture, drying out the soil and increasing the effect of drought.
In 2010, a severe drought occurred in the European part of Russia. Figure 1 shows a photograph we took in Kazan on August 6. It is clearly visible that all the other plants have long since dried up. And bindweed both blooms and produces seeds. In general, he feels good.
The root system of bindweed consists of a main root, penetrating to a depth of six meters or more, and root shoots extending at a depth of 25–40 cm from the main root. They form above-ground climbing stems up to two meters long. On the roots, below the cut line, a large number of buds are formed, from which more shoots are formed than before. Therefore, cutting bindweed does not lead to its destruction, but enhances shoot formation.
A large amount of reserve nutrients in the root system allows bindweed to grow both from great depths and after repeated pruning. S. A. Cott (1948) describes an experiment conducted in the USA. Scientists tried to find out how long it would take for the root system to be completely depleted. Immediately after regrowth, the bindweed was pruned to a depth of 7 cm. It took two years and 48 to 60 prunings for complete depletion. Therefore, we should not hope that by treating the pairs 2-3 times over the summer, we will destroy the field bindweed. It remains only to quote the words of T. S. Maltsev, who noted that he can cope with any weed except birch using the agricultural method. And then he added: “Apparently, chemistry is needed here.”
Since spring, the regrowth of field bindweed is extended; its shoots can appear after chemical weeding of grain crops. Due to the supply of nutrients in the root system, bindweed easily reaches the upper tier and grows successfully. When emerging late, if there is not enough time to form seeds, bindweed does not bloom, but focuses on increasing reserves in the root system.
Field bindweed seeds can germinate abundantly all summer and autumn, especially in wet years. The cotyledon leaves do not look like real ones (Figure 2). With early germination in favorable conditions, it can already form a full-fledged plant with a horizontal root system in the first year (Figure 3). In the first year of life, bindweed usually does not bloom - at this stage its task is to deposit the required amount of reserve nutrients in the root system. Plants in their first year are less viable than established perennials. Therefore, it is necessary to conduct an autumn survey of fields for the presence of plants of the first year of life and take measures to destroy them before they become perennial. IN traditional system agriculture uses mechanical tillage ( better in autumn than in spring), and in the direct sowing system - herbicides. To destroy bindweed in the first year of life, 1.2–1.5 liters of Roundup, BP is sufficient.
Due to its powerful root system, field bindweed is resistant to many herbicides. The following is often observed: after treatment with herbicides, the vegetative aerial part of field bindweed dies. But then re-growth occurs, and by harvesting the crops are more contaminated with bindweed than before: herbicides bring dormant buds out of dormancy, which produce a large number of additional shoots (Figure 4). At the same time, bindweed often does not form seeds this year - there is an intensive accumulation of nutrients in the root system.
In crops different cultures field bindweed is suppressed by maximum doses of derivatives of aryloxyacetic acids (2,4D, MCPA), benzoic acid (dicamba), imidazolinones (imazamox, imazethapyr), nitriles (bromoxynil); often mixtures of different herbicides (Dialen, Dialen Super) are more effective. However, secondary regrowth is possible, especially when treated with early stages. When using 2,4D, the use of C7-C8 heavy esters is more effective. Currently, sulfonylurea derivatives are widely used. These herbicides have little control over field bindweed, especially if applied early. When applied later, their effectiveness against field bindweed increases significantly.
When treating crops with herbicides, even if the bindweed does not grow back, it does not die completely and grows back the next year. Naturally, he will be weakened. An agronomist, when choosing fields for cultivation, first begins to work on the most weeded fields, and the field with weakened bindweed remains uncultivated. Over the course of the season, the bindweed recovers, and as a result, the field will be more clogged than before. In fact, weakened bindweed needs to be finished off. To completely destroy bindweed, the field must be treated with herbicides for several years in a row. This applies not only to bindweed, but to all perennial weeds.
Bindweed is most successfully destroyed by non-selective systemic herbicides. They are used in fields free of cultivated plants, as well as for desiccation of crops.
In the steam field significantly more opportunities for controlling perennial weeds. Here you can use higher rates of herbicide consumption and optimize the period of their application, taking into account the stage of weed development. After destroying perennials in a fallow field, the herbicide load on subsequent crops can be significantly reduced: young species are usually less resistant, and their suppression usually requires lower rates of herbicide consumption.
Given the upward trend in energy costs, mechanical steam treatment is approaching the cost of chemical steam treatment. It is most rational to use glyphosate in a fallow field. There are currently many glyphosate-based products on the market. We will be looking at Roundup BP, 360 g/l.
When glyphosate is applied in a fallow field, all types of perennial weeds growing in the field can be completely destroyed in one treatment. Controlling perennial weeds becomes many times easier than controlling young weeds. The task becomes different - after applying glyphosate, it is important to prevent the seedlings of perennial weeds from turning into a perennial form.
The effectiveness of glyphosate on field bindweed depends on many factors. In this article we will consider only one - the state of the weed at the time of treatment.
In bindweed, as in other root shoot weeds, in the annual life cycle There are several periods, differing in the direction of movement of reserve nutrients, that should be taken into account when applying herbicides.
1. Regrowth period. At the beginning of this period, the emerging shoot exists due to the reserve nutrients accumulated in the previous seasons in the root system. During this period, the length of the bindweed shoot reaches 15–20 cm. Then the shoot gradually moves from heterotrophic to autotrophic nutrition. Subsequently, for some time, all photosynthesis products are spent on increasing biomass: there is neither upward nor downward movement of photosynthesis products (shoot length up to 40 cm).
2. The period of accumulation of reserve nutrients due to photosynthesis products. This period lasts until flowering. There is an intensive accumulation of reserve nutrients in the root system. The downward flow of photosynthesis products predominates.
3. Fruit formation period - lasts from flowering to ripening. During this period, part of the reserve nutrients located in the root system is consumed by the reproductive organs, and therefore the upward flow of metabolites increases.
4. The period from seeding to leaving for winter. After the formation of seeds and before going into dormancy, the plant continues photosynthetic activity, directing the products of photosynthesis to the root system. When entering a dormant state, all metabolic products suitable for use flow into the root system.
Thus, during the summer, bindweed has two periods of upward flow of nutrients (spring regrowth and seed formation) and two downward ones (before flowering and after seed ripening). Glyphosate has a systemic effect and moves throughout the plant along with metabolic products. The most effective suppression of bindweed occurs in the second and fourth periods, when the downward flow predominates. The only disadvantage of processing in the fourth period is that the perennial has already formed seeds.
To suppress field bindweed, spraying is carried out at the beginning of its flowering. The shoot length is 40–60 cm. During this period, 4.0 l/ha of Roundup is sufficient. After spraying, you need to wait until the herbicide penetrates the root system. Glyphosate moves slowly inside the plant, so the longer you wait, the better. Since the herbicide destroys all vegetative weeds, further mechanical treatment of the vapors is carried out at the usual time, when a new wave of annual weeds emerges from seeds, usually no earlier than 4–6 weeks.
When treating in the early stages of bindweed growth with an increase in the application rate of Roundup, the desired result was not always achieved. We called this the “lizard tail effect”: a large dose of the drug causes rapid death of the shoot. The above-ground part dries out, the drug does not enter the root system, and a mass of new buds awakens (as in Figure 4).
On the contrary, when using a low rate of application of Roundup during the period of supply of reserve nutrients to the root system, rapid death of the above-ground mass does not occur. The herbicide penetrates deeper and more effectively suppresses the root system of the weed. And the longer the period before mechanical tillage, the higher the effect of suppressing perennials. Although visually complete death of the above-ground mass of the weed does not occur from the herbicide.
Chemical treatment of a fallow field requires one spray and usually two mechanical treatments. If the main target weed is field bindweed, spraying can be carried out either at the beginning or in the middle or end of fallowing. The spraying period is chosen based on economic considerations.
If the field was well leveled before fallowing, chemical treatment can be carried out first. Usually after chemical weeding of grain crops is completed, at the end of June.
If the field was fallow or the field surface needs to be leveled, first one or two mechanical tillage is carried out at the usual time, and after the bindweed grows, at the beginning of its flowering (after about 30–45 days), chemical tillage is carried out.
When processing in autumn, it is only important that the field bindweed reaches the desired condition at the time of spraying, and that there is enough time left before leaving for winter - at least a month before a steady cold snap. Further renewal of infestation by this weed occurs through seeds.
To reduce the cost of processing, Roundup steam can be replaced with 2,4D derivatives or dicamba, or mixtures of them can be used. To do this, take 2.5–3 times the rate of these herbicides recommended for use in crops.
Herbicidal steam treatment allows you to completely destroy perennial weeds. When sowing in pairs, only annual weeds need to be controlled. To suppress them, lower application rates or herbicides that are less dangerous for the crop can be used.
In addition to processing crops and fallow fields There are other places where you can effectively combat field bindweed.
In regions with longer growing seasons, Roundup is often used before planting. In this case, 4–6 liters of Roundup are consumed. In the traditional farming system, pre-sowing tillage and sowing are carried out no earlier than 10–14 days after spraying. With no-till technology, spraying can be carried out after sowing. In short summer conditions, this technique can only be used when cultivating late-sown crops - buckwheat, millet, summer sowing of annual and perennial grasses. When sowing a crop at the usual time, this technique is ineffective - the weeds have not yet sprouted, or are spare nutrients did not begin to enter the root system.
Desiccation of crops is very effective in the fight against bindweed. It is carried out at 30% grain moisture, 2–3 weeks before harvesting. Apply 3.0 l/ha of Roundup. In our experiments, when desiccating wheat and peas, the death of bindweed reached 90–95%. Figures 5 and 6 show snapshots of the fields before desiccation. After desiccation, harvesting was carried out directly, resulting in clean and dry grain.
If field bindweed grows back after early harvested crops (peas, annual grasses, etc.), you can also carry out herbicide treatment. However, the effectiveness of this technique is lower than desiccation: not all bindweed grows back in late autumn, and there is also a risk of early cold snap. At the same time, cheaper herbicides – derivatives of 2,4D and dicamba – can be used for such treatment.
If, in addition to field bindweed, there are other root shoot weeds on the field (and this is usually the case), it is better to destroy them all with one chemical treatment. When solving this problem, it is necessary to take into account the species composition of weeds. Thistle and thistle are more sensitive to herbicides than field bindweed. The main target remains bindweed, and thistle and thistle are usually additional events not required.
The protection system is built differently if there is still spurge vine on the field. It grows much earlier than bindweed, so the development of weeds needs to be synchronized. First, mechanical processing is carried out at the end of May. After this, bindweed and spurge begin to grow together. However, Euphorbia vine grows faster and is more resistant to herbicides. Therefore, in the future, when processing vapors, they focus on it, as was discussed in the previous article. Autumn treatment is also not suitable, since by this time the euphorbia vine goes into a dormant state.
In conclusion, we note the different approaches to the use of herbicides against annual and perennial weeds. The effectiveness of herbicides against annual weeds is higher, the younger the plant. The perennial plant has a strong root system, and a higher dose of herbicide is needed to kill it. And the weed can only pump the herbicide into the roots through the leaves. Therefore, a certain ratio between the above-ground and underground parts of the weed is needed. Chemical treatments applied too early against perennial weeds may not be effective. This is why there are different results when chemically weeding crops.
© G.Ya. Stetsov, Doctor of Agriculture Sciences, leading employee of the plant protection laboratory of the Altai Research Institute of Agriculture.
© N.N. Sadovnikova, junior researcher at the Plant Protection Laboratory of the Altai Research Institute of Agriculture.