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How to make a hood in a private house with your own hands?

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In order for a private house to receive an influx of fresh air, as well as remove already polluted air, it is necessary to install a ventilation system - an exhaust hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if preliminary calculations are made that take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.

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Natural ventilation

At the design stage of a house, a natural ventilation scheme must be drawn up. The principle of its operation is to ventilate the house due to the natural circulation of the air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the influx of fresh air and the exhaust of already humid air must be carried out through different rooms. Typically, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outlet space is called wet.

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You can ventilate your house in four ways:

• channel, when the house is equipped with vertically located channels.
• ductless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
• permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant air flow, which enters through air ducts.
• periodic, when “new” air enters at certain intervals.

To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are installed on the exhaust ducts, which can operate either continuously or at set times. Accordingly, such equipment requires a connection to the power supply network.

Advantages

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It does not require the installation of expensive equipment, and system breakdowns are automatically eliminated. But even with fans installed on the exhaust ducts, the circulation system naturally consumes electricity in small quantities. Consequently, money is saved. Another advantage of the system is its compatibility with other types of air exchange.

Flaws

This type of ventilation in a wooden house directly depends on weather conditions, which directly affects the ventilation of the building. As a rule, insufficient supply of fresh air manifests itself in the form of fungus, as well as the accumulation of toxic substances that can come from building materials. Thus, it, not combined with other systems, will not always be able to ensure proper air exchange in the house.

Forced exhaust

Since the dependence of natural ventilation on external climatic conditions does not allow the premises to be fully ventilated, the installation of additional equipment is necessary to ensure air circulation in a private home. Air exchange carried out using special installed devices, as well as components for them, is called forced ventilation.

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According to the principle of operation, it is divided into:

• supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Another variation of this method is the installation of recycling equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through filters, is partially mixed with street air, and then, already purified, is returned to the room;
• supply air with the possibility of heating. To operate the system according to this principle, a recuperator is required, which uses exhaust but already heated air;
• supply air with cooling. Air conditioning is required here;
• supply and exhaust. The most common system for private homes. The circulation of air masses is ensured by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. This air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.

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However, the operation of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up the house construction plan. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the supply of fresh air to the premises and the removal of already used air to the street.

The compulsory system includes the following elements and equipment:

• grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
• filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
• air valves that regulate the flow of air supplied to the house. In winter, protect the system from icy gusts of wind;
• fans used to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
• sound absorbers ensuring silent operation of the system;
• heaters that heat the incoming air;
• ventilation ducts that allow air to move.

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How to properly install a hood in a kitchen in a private home

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Preparatory work for installing a hood in the kitchen begins with measurements of the room (the installation was discussed in more detail in, and how to choose the right one - in). After all, the obtained values ​​will affect the choice of device model.

First of all, the cubic volume of the room is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of the kitchen. The result is then multiplied by a factor of ten. This value determines the number of air changes per hour established by current regulations. The result obtained will be the minimum power required for the measured kitchen.

Since all exhaust devices require electricity, the installation locations of the devices are equipped with sockets.

Preparing a niche for a kitchen hood is also an important factor. After all, a centralized gas pipe can be installed in such a way that in the future it will interfere with the installation of equipment on the wall. The way out of the situation is to install brackets that will allow you to leave the necessary space between the wall and the hood. In addition, the wall should not have obvious defects and should be strong enough to support the kitchen exhaust system.

To install the equipment you will need:

• building level;
• roulette;
• perforator;
• Screwdriver Set;
• jigsaw;
• hacksaw for metal;
• silicone sealant.

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Manufacturers of hoods provide consumers with three main modifications of devices:

• hanging;
• built-in;
• dome or fireplace.

Also, according to the method of air purification, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models that operate in recirculation mode.

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When the device operates in recirculation mode, the hood does not emit pollution into the street, but passes air through the filter and returns it back into the room.

Since wall-hung models operate in recirculation mode (), they are more suitable for small kitchens. This is explained by the fact that conventional filtration is not able to cope with air purification in large rooms.

Hanging hoods equipped with filters that need to be changed periodically. The frequency of replacements is indicated in the technical documentation of the device.

Among the positive qualities of the devices are their low price, the ability to be attached to a kitchen cabinet, and the lack of additional components, since hanging equipment does not require an air exhaust system.

Built-in technology practically hidden from view and serves as an air supply. The body of such a device is mounted directly into the kitchen cabinet, and only the air intake remains outside, which basically has a retractable panel.

The air duct of a built-in exhaust device can be led outside either through the ventilation system already existing in the house or through a wall or roof.

The most expensive model range, but at the same time the most powerful, is considered to be the fireplace or dome class. Hoods in this series not only provide stable air purification, but also become pronounced elements of room design. In addition to factory production, dome models can be individually designed.

Installing a kitchen hood over a gas stove

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How to properly make a kitchen hood over a stove with your own hands in a private home depends on the shape and size of the device. At the same time, the installation of an electrical appliance is also influenced by the location and dimensions of the kitchen unit modules.

There are three installation options:

• built-in;
• with fastening to the bottom of the cabinet;
• with wall mounting.

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To install the device in a cabinet, the lower shelf of the kitchen module must first be removed. Subsequently, it may either not be installed at all, or a hole is made in it using a jigsaw that is suitable in size with a hood.

On the shelf located in the middle of the cabinet, holes are made for the electrical cable and air duct. Then the body of the device is applied to the shelf to be fixed and the fastening points are marked with a pencil. Next, the hood is attached using self-tapping screws.

The device mounted under a kitchen cabinet differs from the built-in version only in that the hood body remains outside. If desired, it is covered with a false panel or any other finishing material using double-sided tape or glue.

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When attaching the hood to the wall, first of all, mark the mounting points through the rear panel of the device. Holes are drilled along the marks, dowels at least 5 cm long are inserted into them. Then self-tapping screws are screwed into the two upper holes so that the hood can be hung freely on them. After checking the reliability of the structure, without removing the device, screw in the remaining screws and tighten the top ones.

Duct connection

Before connecting the air duct to the hood, you need to decide on the choice of material. There are two types of pipes for removing exhaust air from the room (more details):

• corrugated, which are made of aluminum. Although the installation of this type of pipe does not require additional adapters, the sound insulation properties of corrugated products are very low. However, noise during operation of the hood can be reduced by tensioning the pipe.
• plastic, having a cross-section both rectangular and round. In the latter, much less contaminants accumulate during operation, and the resistance is lower than in rectangular pipes. To install this class you will need L-shaped adapters.

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But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the air duct must coincide with the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the kitchen hood will work in increased mode, which will lead to rapid engine failure.

The installed air duct should not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. To do this, a special grille is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the device has finished operating. This mode of operation allows the natural air circulation system to operate fully.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

The task of installed ventilation in the bathroom is to clean the room from various odors and eliminate high humidity.

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Since the operation of a natural hood is completely dependent on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the natural air circulation system has its advantages, which include simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in a natural hood predicts long and uninterrupted operation.

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Ventilation ducts for the bathroom are selected with a diameter of at least 50 cubic meters per hour, and for the toilet an air duct with a width of 30 cubic meters per hour is suitable. The ability to remove odors and moist air from the bathroom is provided by a forced ventilation system. Its operation is carried out using installed fans, which can be with bearings or bushings. Devices with bushings are much cheaper than fans with bearings.

Forced exhaust fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Device manufacturers also offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system begins to operate when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room. This method of ventilation is quite simple in its organization, but like the entire natural ventilation system, it is directly dependent on weather conditions.

A more effective method is a system that uses two pipes, 8–15 cm wide. In this case, the supply channel is mounted so that the lower part of the pipe is located at a height of 20–40 cm from the floor. The upper end should be fixed on the street so that the gap to the ground is 40–60 cm.

The lower end of the exhaust pipe is mounted directly under the ceiling, and the outer part is led through the ceilings to the roof and fixed 30–60 cm from it.

How to make a duct box

Some air duct models do not fit into the overall design of the room. The way out of this situation is to hide the channel in a special box.

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Depending on the material used, decorative designs are:

• plastic;
• wooden;
• steel;
• made of MDF, chipboard or plasterboard.

However, when installing the box, it is taken into account that it will constantly be exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that arise during cooking. It follows that the structure must be washed and cleaned well. Only in this case will the decorative box fit into the overall design of the room.

Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through a wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands

Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And to do this, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will operate.

Most new materials and finished structures introduced into the construction and finishing industry almost completely eliminate the free movement of air. The tightness they provided, along with the advantages, brought a significant disadvantage - a violation of ventilation processes.

They simply need to be restored, because, you see, without a regular supply of fresh air to the room it is impossible to live in it!

We know how to solve such a difficult problem: exhaust ventilation through the wall to the street will form the normal movement of air masses. A small wall device will ensure exhaust flow removal and excellent air exchange.

The article we propose will introduce you to the intricacies of choosing a valve for organizing exhaust ventilation, and the rules for its installation and operation. The information presented for consideration is confirmed by photographic materials, diagrams and video instructions.

Natural ventilation of residential premises is based on the presence of micro-slits, characteristic of wooden window structures. Through such small openings, air regularly entered from the outside and was removed from the house through ventilation ducts installed in the building structures.

Thus, there was a constant change of air masses in the apartment, promoting a normal level of humidity, removing unpleasant odors, etc.

Regular renewal of the air mass, which occurs naturally through the loose fit of window sashes and door panels, as well as through ventilation, creates an optimal microclimate for life, removes excess moisture, carbon dioxide and other harmful toxic substances

Improper air exchange in the house is an almost inevitable problem when taking measures to reduce heat loss. When installing new windows and doors, trying to minimize heat loss, few people think about ventilating their homes.

But soon problems manifest themselves in the form of a stuffy atmosphere, mold growth in the bathroom and other similar phenomena. Soon, the abnormal microclimate begins to negatively affect the health of those who live in such a house.

Informed choice of the appropriate option

Most often, wall ventilation exhaust valves are made of metal or durable plastic. Plastic products are not suitable for conditions of high temperature and humidity, for example, for a bath, but they have proven themselves excellent in less difficult situations.

When selecting a valve, you should take into account its cross-section: rectangular or round.

The most important indicator is the air flow speed for which the device is designed. The most common are models designed for a flow of 4-6 m/s.

To organize forced exhaust ventilation in an apartment or house, you can use a design consisting of a fan and a check valve

If the valve is selected for a natural ventilation system, it is very important that the damper damper elements respond sensitively to even small air flows. But for systems with low draft, the presence of an exhaust fan is mandatory, so such sensitivity is not needed.

But here it is important to choose a fan that is suitable in power depending on the volume of the room for which the device is selected. So, for a kitchen, the fan power is calculated using a multiplying factor of ten, and for a bathroom this figure can be seven units.

In multi-storey buildings, the exhaust ventilation pipe must be installed one meter above the roof so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate from the lower floors to the upper ones.

Subtleties of constructing exhaust ventilation in the wall

In private houses and even in multi-storey buildings, in many cases it is more convenient to make a ventilation outlet directly through the wall. For this purpose, models of exhaust valves with a fan are used, which is inserted into the mounting coupling intended for their location.

You can also use overhead fan models that are mounted on the inside of the wall.

To install an exhaust ventilation valve in a wall, you first need to make a marking and drill a hole of the required size in it.

To install such a simple design, you will need to make a fairly large hole for installing ventilation in the outer wall of the house. But first you need to choose the right device.

Manually controlled models have an affordable price, but they are extremely inconvenient to use, since you have to constantly remember to turn on or off the exhaust valve.

The exhaust fan is installed on the inside of the hole made in the wall, and the check valve and protective grille are installed on the outside.

To automate the process, you can use a timer. You will need to select a time schedule; in accordance with these settings, the valve will turn on and off at the specified time. It may be more effective to use a sensor that responds to the level of humidity in the room.

In this case, the device will start working when the air in the room becomes too humid, and the fan will stop when the humidity drops. When choosing automatic control devices, you should make sure that when the power is turned off, the previously set settings are retained.

To ensure good air exchange in the room, it is necessary to use a sufficiently powerful fan. A unit that is weak in this regard simply cannot cope with the movement of a large volume of air masses, and as a result, ventilation will not be effective enough.

The choice of location for installing a wall ventilation valve is based on the requirements specified in the device manufacturer’s instructions

When making calculations, a simple formula is usually used:

M=O*B

• M – required fan power;
• О – volume of the room in which the device will be installed;
• B – increasing air exchange coefficient.

The volume of a room, as you know from a school mathematics course, can be calculated as the product of the area and height of the room. The air exchange coefficient is determined depending on the purpose of the room.

This indicator should be:

• for a separate toilet – 8;
• for the kitchen – 15;
• for a bathroom or combined toilet – 20.

All that remains is to determine the volume of the room and multiply it by the appropriate coefficient to obtain an indicator that will help you choose a valve with a sufficiently powerful fan. You should not take an overly powerful model, this will only cause unnecessary expenses and will not have a beneficial effect on the ventilation process.

When calculating the power of an exhaust fan, it is necessary to take into account the sensitivity of such equipment to system resistance. The presence of a decorative grille and valve can reduce the speed of air flow by three to five and even ten times. Therefore, you should not choose a device with minimal size and power.

The fan performance must be sufficient to ensure that exhaust air leaves through the valve from adjacent rooms, and not just from the room in which the device is installed. Before starting work on installing an exhaust valve with a fan, you must select a suitable location.

The hole for the exhaust valve is best made in the upper part of the outer wall, this position facilitates the effective removal of exhaust air

To do this, use a wall that is as far as possible from the place where fresh air is taken in. Typically, supply ventilation is installed in the walls or windows of rooms such as a bedroom or living room.

A kitchen or kitchen is more suitable for exhaust ventilation. As a result, unpleasant odors, excess water vapor, etc. are also removed with the exhaust air.

The hole for the exhaust valve must be made at the top of the wall. First they mark, then start drilling. A hole of suitable size is made with a drill and a feather annular drill. Sometimes you have to use a special tool with a diamond attachment.

The opening for the exhaust valve must be sized and configured to match the dimensions of the fan. This is usually a round device, but sometimes it is more convenient to use a device with a square body. In this case, the hole for the valve must be hollowed out using a hammer drill with a spatula-shaped attachment.

The diameter and shape of the hole in the wall for installing the exhaust valve must correspond to the characteristics of the fan that comes with the device

Such work is usually accompanied by a large amount of dust, from which even the use of an industrial vacuum cleaner cannot help. Before starting drilling, it is necessary to cover the surfaces with film or other suitable materials to protect them from contamination.

A core drilling machine can be used to drill through particularly thick exterior walls made of durable materials. This is expensive equipment that is cheaper to rent than to buy. Specialized companies provide core drilling services at a relatively low price, which depends on the drilling depth and wall material.

Ventilation systems come in a variety of designs, so choosing the right option for a private home is quite difficult. You need to understand many subtleties and nuances before making a decision.

What is it for?

Home ventilation in a cottage or country house is needed primarily for ventilation, that is, to replace exhaust air masses with fresh ones. However, this seemingly simple answer hides many subtleties and nuances. It is not always enough to pump in a certain volume of air from the outside and dump some of it outside. A very important task is to free the home atmosphere from dirt, harmful microorganisms and dust particles.

Even in cottage villages, the purity of air masses is questionable. Still, every minute factories are working somewhere, trains and planes are rushing, smoke is pouring out of power plants and from the exhaust pipes of cars. A conventional gas stove pollutes the room atmosphere with moisture additives. Plastic windows disrupt the normal process of removing dirt. Modern ventilation devices successfully solve all these problems.

Windows with mesh can prevent bumblebees and flies, mosquitoes and leaves from getting inside. But they will not protect against dust particles and plant allergens. The air passing through the mesh remains as excessively humid or dry as it is outside. It is not heated in winter and brings sweltering heat in summer. High-quality ventilation reliably cuts off all these negative factors and does not allow mold and other fungi to settle in the house.

Ventilation system design

Ventilation systems can solve such problems only if they are properly organized using a special method. Plastic air ducts are widely used for organizing mines. Thanks to universal connections, you can assemble everything yourself. Metal structures are more reliable, but assembling an air duct from them is much more difficult. This type of work is mostly done by craftsmen.

Grilles are used to distribute air; 1 house can sometimes have more than 10 grilles. They are divided into supply and exhaust format devices. But a prerequisite is that the grille (together with other components) must block the opening for air passage by a maximum of 40%. Forced ventilation systems are often equipped with diffusers and fans.

Ventilation complexes equipped with heaters are capable of heating the incoming air. The efficiency of this option is higher than using even the best heating devices to warm up the already supplied air. A very important component in many cases is the filter. They may not be used in suburban homes, but the proximity to a federal highway or railroad requires the use of an appropriate device. In this case, it should only cope with freeing the air from dust.

Regardless of the subtleties of filling, the equipment used and the natural or artificial drive of air, it is taken from below and released at the top point. Of the additional devices in the natural ventilation scheme, only a supply valve is present. Hoods for boilers, as well as for gas and electric stoves, are of the autonomous type. It is important to understand that they are not able to replace a full-fledged ventilation system. After all, air intake near the ceiling and at a considerable distance from heating devices still does not occur, and therefore the atmosphere in the room will inevitably remain clogged.

Kinds

Already at the time of construction, any building, including a private house, must be equipped with natural ventilation devices. This is a basic minimum, without which a normal indoor environment cannot be ensured. It is for such components that the calculation is usually carried out first, and the portion of air provided by natural ventilation is subtracted from the demand in order to determine the required power of mechanical devices. But the disadvantage of such a system is that it works stably only within very strict limits. It is enough to change the weather conditions, just change the direction of the wind, and the efficiency tends to zero.

Supply ventilation systems provide rational control of the quality characteristics of the air in the home. The simplest way to ensure the flow of air mass is a fan placed in the window opening. The disadvantage of this option is that it only works well during warm periods. If the temperature is very low, it will create discomfort.

The kind of external ventilation that can be seen in public and industrial buildings is excessive for a private home. And the point is not only in excessive power, but also in the large occupied area. You will need to perform the work as accurately as possible and develop the project in the smallest detail. Monoblock systems operating on inflow have become widespread. Such systems are assembled within a single building equipped with noise insulation.

Personal air supply systems only work for one room. Most of these devices are low-power and do not create much noise. The costs of purchasing them are low. There is no need to use air ducts or involve specialists. It is possible to equip such systems with recuperator units, but their effectiveness is ensured only at positive air temperatures.

The attached type of ventilation ducts should have dimensions of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is advisable to use ready-made pipes rather than build communications from plasterboard. This is more reliable and saves time during installation. The pipes are discharged above the roof, the lifting height is determined by the installation location. It is prohibited to use ventilation combined with a chimney; The supply and exhaust for the kitchen must be independent of each other.

Separate ventilation ducts lead to rooms that are needed to solve household problems. These are dressing rooms, laundry rooms and storage rooms. Such channels cannot be laid in load-bearing walls. It is also inadvisable to install them in external walls, where this will lead to continuous formation of condensation. The laying of ventilation routes for gas also has its own characteristics. It does not matter whether water heaters (water heaters), heating boilers or kitchen stoves are installed.

The combustion of natural gas inevitably leads to a reduction in the concentration of oxygen in the air. Additionally, this causes an increase in the concentration of carbon dioxide, the chimney becomes increasingly clogged with soot, and the air in the room quickly fills with water and dust. And all this is dangerous not only due to subjective inconveniences: it poses a threat to the health and even lives of people. Since private houses, with the exception of large cottages, do not install boilers more powerful than 30 kW, it is from this level that we should proceed. Natural supply ventilation of boiler rooms is created by marking a channel, the margin of which is about 1 cm.

The diameters of the air pipes are at least 150 mm. They should be laid in openings with a slight inclination towards the street. To cover empty areas, use foam. The part of the foam that extends beyond the contour must be cut off after hardening. It is not possible to eliminate dust clogging in this scheme; the solution to the problem is to use grilles with filters.

Another grille is mounted at the outlet of the pipe to the street to prevent small animals and debris from getting inside. The outlet must be located at least 1 m from the boiler. This requirement is intended to prevent the influence of cold air on the operation of the gas boiler. You should not rely too much on automation: yes, it can compensate for such an impact, but this will only significantly shorten the service life of the product. The natural format of boiler room ventilation, depending on external conditions, allows you to save energy.

Mixed supply and exhaust units contain filters, fans and air heaters. In boiler rooms they provide a complete microclimate. Taking into account the capabilities of modern automated boilers, such systems help reduce fuel consumption and stabilize the operation of heating equipment. Boiler rooms can use ducted or ductless air supply systems. In the first case, its flows are collected together and then discharged outside naturally or forcibly.

To move the air created by gas equipment, rectangular channels based on galvanized steel are most often used. Such systems are easy and simple to install. The kit always includes the necessary parts. There is almost always no need for auxiliary fittings. Since the size and weight of the air ducts are small, you can create them with your own hands.

Standard requirements and design rules

According to regulatory requirements, all technical solutions in buildings and structures must be focused on ensuring and maintaining a microclimate that complies with the instructions of GOST 30494. You should also be guided by the instructions contained in the sanitary rules of 2002. Even emergency ventilation and smoke protection equipment cannot create general noise greater than 110 dB, and impulse noise greater than 125 dB. Anti-corrosion coating of air ducts can be done with easily flammable paints, but their thickness cannot exceed 0.02 cm.

According to the standards in force in Russia, it is necessary to force the air into motion if the meteorological characteristics of the area do not provide the required parameters for its movement. This may also be due to the need to purify incoming air masses. Mechanical ventilation is mandatory in all areas where natural ventilation is completely impossible. Another case where you can’t do without artificial encouragement is in areas where the air temperature drops to -40 degrees or less. In such situations, it is necessary to supplement the pumping systems with heating means.

According to SNiP, air purification from dust should be carried out to the maximum permissible concentration for a specific settlement or lower. All systems should be designed so that the room temperature does not fall below 12 degrees. Ideally, it should be kept within normal limits. The lowest point of the part receiving air from the outside must be located at least 1 m above stable snow cover and 2 m above ground level. If the territory may be subject to sandstorms, the rise should be already 3 m. But the need to protect air receivers from pollen, leaves, twigs, petals and the like is determined individually, according to the technical specifications.

All points where transit air ducts are laid through walls must be sealed through partitions using non-combustible materials. It is prohibited to combine air ducts with gas pipelines, electrical wiring, communication cables and sewer systems. The approach of all these communications to pipes and their simple intersection are also prohibited. If there are several ventilation systems (usually supply and exhaust), then instruments for measuring temperatures and pressures are made common for all circuits.

According to the current GOST, it is allowed to use only those methods of fastening air distribution devices to air ducts or to permanent structures of buildings that are provided for in the technical documentation for the products.

Materials and components

The arrangement of ventilation in houses made of SIP panels has its own characteristics. In this case, since the buildings are lightweight to the limit, the simplest ventilation systems are usually used. The exception is for houses with a height of two or more floors. Even if a house made from such panels is built using ventilated facade technology, additional air flow will still be needed. The simplest option to ensure its flow without disturbing the climatic properties of the premises is to use special valves.

They are mostly installed directly into house frames. Such structures are externally invisible and do not detract from the appearance of the buildings. To connect the supply valves to the frame and ceilings, you can use plastic or asbestos-cement pipes. It is strictly unacceptable to make metal air ducts. They will significantly increase noise and weaken thermal insulation. According to professionals, asbestos-cement slabs as a basis for ventilation of a SIP house are much better than their plastic counterparts.

Mechanical ventilation systems in SIP houses can provide air cleaning and heating simultaneously with pumping. The problem is that it can be quite difficult to make such highways without the help of professionals. Only very trained and skillful people will solve such problems successfully. The key link is the hood, which provides rarefaction of air in living rooms. Since the intake of air masses is carried out forcibly, increased pressure is formed, which ensures the release (displacement) of the exhaust part of the atmosphere into the street.

In many frame buildings they try to make combined ventilation systems. They help maintain optimal air movement with little energy consumption. For a large cottage (180-200 sq. m) it is necessary to create 6, 7 or 8 ventilation ducts. If the total area of ​​the home is smaller or larger, their number also needs to be changed. The pipes form a kind of collector, which is equipped with an exhaust fan.

It is better to use not just mechanical, but fully automated fans. They will need to be connected to humidity sensors installed in each room. Then optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be ensured in any room. The use of infrared measuring instruments is not recommended because their cost is prohibitive. Only professionals calculate the fan power, because no one will be able to do it correctly without special training.

To form ventilation lines in private houses, PVC sewer pipes with a cross-section of 11 cm are often used. They are almost 3 times more profitable than galvanized counterparts, and the air moving through them makes less noise. What is important is that such structures can be installed relatively easily, and the joints will have a high degree of tightness. Such pipes can be equipped with fittings of various types, which makes it possible to make smooth and sharp turns of pipelines at any angle.

The smoothness of the inner wall virtually eliminates obstacles to the movement of air flows. This means not only minimal “loudness,” but also high ventilation efficiency. Buying such pipes will not be difficult in any city. But we must take into account that all sewer pipes are round; they take up more space than rectangular structures of similar capacity. But the concern about the accumulation of static electricity on plastic pipelines, as practice has shown, has no good reason.

As for the release of toxic substances, nothing can be said without studying a specific sample. Only after testing in a laboratory does it become clear whether a certain type of plastic is dangerous or not. All that remains for the consumer is to rely on the quality certificates provided by manufacturers and sellers. Before drawing up a wiring diagram for ventilation pipes, it is necessary to take into account the natural or forced nature of ventilation. Only then will it be possible to use the correct formulas for calculating cross-sections based on throughput levels.

Chimneys, or rather forced exhaust systems, deserve special attention. Although they do not intersect with ventilation and cannot form a single circuit, the tasks being solved are still quite close. Weak draft in a private home is bad not only because of the threat of smoke and carbon monoxide poisoning, not only because of soot and soot in the home. Even a slight weakening of it, which can be difficult to notice, results in excessive fuel consumption, a drop in the efficiency of its combustion and accelerated cooling of the rooms.

Another nuance is that unstable operation of the hood threatens a fire. If soot accumulates, it may one day ignite in such a way that even a heat-resistant type of brick cannot withstand it. By replacing the usual wooden windows with cracks with plastic ones and installing steel doors, the draft will inevitably weaken. After all, all chimney designs are also designed for this fresh air influx channel. Therefore, it will be necessary to compensate for the lost power of natural ventilation through special techniques.

To cope with the effects of wind or changes in the direction of air movement, weather vanes and weather vanes can be used. Such elements, turning in the direction of the flow, block the head of the pipe and maintain a stable mode of air movement in it. When flowing around such parts, the wind contributes to the formation of rarefied areas above the end of the chimney. The result is increased traction without consuming electricity. Most often, weather vanes are made from stainless steel; the sheet thickness should be at least 0.05 cm.

To ensure movement around its axis, weather vanes are equipped with closed support bearings. Such devices do not require additional maintenance during the entire period of operation. If the product meets standard standards, the housing does not collect condensation and soot. The only thing the owners will need to do is fight the formation of ice crusts. In addition, it is worth considering that weather vane fans operate poorly and unstably if the wind is very strong.

An alternative to them are rotary turbines. These devices also use the energy of atmospheric currents. But the twist occurs in one direction, regardless of which way the wind blows. The ball, assembled using a special system of “petals,” prevents the pipe from clogging with all kinds of dirt and prevents birds and insects from settling in. However, when there is no wind at all, this expensive product is almost useless.

The exhaust fan does not depend on the weather. It is fundamentally different from a fireplace ventilation device designed to force draft. The basis of the device is an electric motor designed to be powered by a regular home electrical network. You need to use a smoke exhaust fan if you need to create increased draft in the smoke duct for a small fireplace. High-quality designs ensure normal ventilation of the hearth even when the chimney duct is heated to 600 degrees.

How to do it yourself?

You can begin installing ventilation communications in a private house only after a diagram has been drawn up in accordance with all the rules. But the scheme itself can only be drawn up on the basis of accurate information and estimates:

required air exchange parameters;

created microclimate;

standards for the installation of ventilation equipment;

features and modes of its use.

Russian standards provide that per 1 sq. m of enclosed space it is required to supply 3 cubic meters. m of air in 60 minutes. But at the same time, we must not forget about the “human” norms - 30 cubic meters. m per tenant. All this is worth remembering when it comes time to calculate the cross-sections and internal diameters of the channels, their length and air movement speed. If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, 60 cubic meters should be supplied there. m of air, and if gas - another 50% more. When possible, it is worth drawing up technical specifications and entrusting the development of the project to qualified specialists.

As with other technical systems, we must strive to reduce the number of installed parts. It is important to consider points such as:

the ability to repair and configure everything yourself;

availability of backup nodes;

ease of operation;

reliability in a wide range of conditions;

harmonious fit of the ventilation complex into the interior;

cost-effectiveness during installation and use.

All longitudinal seams on air ducts and other elements must face upwards. Each fastener is tightened until it stops so that the bolts cannot be turned any further. Individual parts of communications can be placed on the mountings provided for them only after installation. When selecting and using fasteners, pay attention to the weight of the air ducts. The load from them should not go to the devices.

All fasteners must be equipped with means that inhibit the spread of vibration. Radial fans should be placed on rigid supports and secured with anchor bolts. The filter blocks must be tensioned evenly so that they do not sag. Loose installation of electric motors (in which they are poorly fitted to the fans) is prohibited. It is recommended to check whether the fan blades rotate freely.

All openings used for air passage are covered with protective grilles with a mesh size of no more than 70 mm. A mandatory requirement is also to reduce to a minimum the number of bends and turns, as well as intersections and duplicate sections. In any case, the sequence of installation work is as follows:

marking positions for using fasteners;

assembly of retaining structures;

preparation of air ducts and receipt of components;

formation of individual sections of the ventilation system;

merging them into a monolithic complex with consolidation in accordance with plans and diagrams that meet regulatory requirements.

In residential buildings, unlike industrial facilities, ventilation ducts are most often hidden from external view with the help of finishing elements. The selection of a ventilation system for a private home is determined by considerations such as:

construction materials of the building and its floors;

total area;

intensity of home use;

number of residents;

environmental and sanitary characteristics of street air;

climate regime of the area;

Rose of Wind;

characteristics of polluting factors in the home environment;

economic feasibility of using certain solutions;

ensuring comfort and a sanitary safe internal environment;

minimizing fire risks and noise;

no negative impacts on neighboring houses and plots, or on the environment.

In private homes, you can use both forced and natural systems. The second option is preferable for buildings made of brick, wood and expanded clay concrete blocks. If the home is equipped with a balcony or loggia, these rooms must be equipped with devices for micro-ventilation. But much more often, hoods are used to remove condensate. Supply and exhaust devices should be used in rooms that do not have windows.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended for ventilating built-in garages and home boiler rooms. In a mixed system, a convector is responsible for the influx, the additional functions of which are heating, filtration and disinfection of incoming air. Ultraviolet emitters are widely used to combat harmful microorganisms.

The use of recuperators helps prevent overcooling of the serviced premises in winter.

Phased installation involves installing:

filter systems;

heater;

fan;

recuperator;

air conditioning systems.

If there is no need to place a block, it is simply skipped. But there is no need to change the general order. Air conditioning units are installed last, just before the discharge hole. Domestic ventilation ducts passing through unheated roofs must be covered with thermal insulation. When it is planned to combine inflow and outflow, care must be taken to install exhaust fans. Electrical lines are laid last, just before they are connected; They must be grounded.

When ventilation systems are divided into sections, networks for each of them are assembled separately. Pre-launch tests of all units must be carried out without fail.

It is necessary to drill inputs and outputs with a slight slope in the direction of the street. This is important for complete drainage of condensate. Hole diameter is at least 120-130 mm.

It is advisable to install wall valves in the space from the window sill to the heating radiator. You need to cut a passage in the wall, the cross-section of which ranges from 50 to 60 mm. The pipe goes into the hole. Then you need to secure the outer and inner distributors. Subsequent cleaning of the valve should be done every 6 months or even more often.

Products that activate air exhaust in a private home are installed mainly in kitchens (above stoves) and in bathrooms. The current consumption of such systems is small; it is possible to power them with electricity taken from the light bulb regulators. Mixing and mutual blocking of flows flowing from toilets and bathtubs can be prevented by using a return valve. Air can easily pass through it, but the reverse movement is impossible. Small modifications are fixed to:

• original fasteners offered by the manufacturer.

When choosing a product, you need to look not only at compliance with the project. A very important point for the quality operation of the valve is isolation from water. Experts note that silent systems consume more electricity during operation. Experience in using various versions has led to the conclusion that the body made of acrylic and polyisopropylene is characterized by increased strength. Output through the wall is not the only way to ensure air flow; there is also the possibility of installing products (or preparing passages) in window blocks or separately.

Having opened the frame, cut off the outer seal from the bottom, the length of which does not exceed 50 mm. The removed part of the material is left in storage because it may suddenly need to be returned. A similar part of the internal seal is cut off at the top. The principle is extremely simple:

street air passes into the lower channel;

passing through the internal cavity of the frame, the flow is heated;

an improved portion of air from above is released into the room.

But such a measure, for all its simplicity and ease of implementation, is acceptable only in the southern regions. Wherever severe frosts may occur, the outer hole will freeze and stop working. In addition, there is no way to filter or intensively heat the air. Valves are more advanced in this regard, but they have their drawbacks:

many walls can only be broken through with special tools;

drilling will be accompanied by the release of a mass of fine dust;

assessing the quality of thermal protection of a wooden or stone wall in a drilled location is possible only in winter - when it is almost impossible to quickly eliminate the deficiencies;

heating, filtration, drying and humidification of air are possible only using electrical systems.

In a residential cottage where a heating boiler is installed, a distributed air duct system is most often used. The reason is that any heating boilers absorb a lot of air during their operation. Neither natural circulation nor valves will be able to compensate for the resulting loss. The preferred location of the inflow is at the entrance to the home or in the corridor. After all, it is these points that are guaranteed to communicate with all the others, and the air streams will need to cover the shortest possible distance.

Air ducts can be made not only of steel and plastic; In some cases, corrugated aluminum gives good results. To make the intersections of elements impenetrable, you can use both sealants (there are a lot of them) and insulating tape. Pipes are attached to the ceiling using hangers, carefully choosing their design. Mounting to walls is done using special clamps. To curb noise and vibration, it is allowed to use foam or foam rubber.

During the pre-launch test you should check:

no vibration;

ensuring design and/or standard performance;

normal operation of all installed parts and control devices;

correct air distribution in accordance with planned calculations;

completeness of smoke removal in the kitchen;

the completeness of freeing baths and toilets from moisture, bad and strong odors;

absence of defects in all fastenings and joints;

absence of short circuits and improper operation of electrical circuits;

uniform temperature adjustment during operation of heating devices.

A common misconception is that in a wooden house the walls themselves provide adequate air passage. Even for log buildings built in accordance with modern requirements, this is no longer the case. The problem is even more acute in frame housing with basic wooden elements. If this consideration is not enough, it is important to look at something else:

wood easily becomes saturated with moisture and rots;

without full pumping, the natural ability of wood to let air through will still not allow for its correct change;

natural circulation does not allow the air to warm up;

Carbon dioxide, excess heat and moisture in the air do not escape through wooden structures.

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is usually installed immediately during construction. Vertical channels are made first in basements, and then in other parts of the home. Vents are prepared in the basements, and the supply channel is mounted at the base level. Recommendation: it is advisable to install it from the north, since there the temperature difference is greatest, as is the draft it creates. If the house occupies a large area, it is necessary to form several channels at once.

The organization of ventilation in brick houses is noticeably different from the scheme just described. Hoods must be made in full compliance with fire safety requirements. All hoods are also equipped with insulating grilles; if they are also made of brick, you must create special pockets that will allow you to remove accumulated soot and dust. The air supply inside the brick building is ensured by a fan placed close to the window. But to discharge the exhaust air mass, it is placed in a channel opposite the window opening.

Channels are laid in any case according to templates. For their manufacture, boards measuring 140x2500x25 mm are used. Such parts are provided with cuts, each of which has the same diameter as the ventilation duct. If the room area is 30 sq. m or less, a recess of 14x14 cm is quite enough for it. But the rise of the channel masonry above the roof surface should be at least 7 bricks.

When working, you need to make sure that each seam is perfectly closed with mortar. Only then will the leakage of smoke, vapors, soot and soot into the serviced space be prevented. It is three times more important to provide all rooms where there is no natural circulation in a brick house with an artificial air supply. You will also have to remove it mechanically. The presence of cracks and extraneous holes or cracks in the wall, inside which cold air is supplied, is unacceptable.

Frame buildings made of timber, used only in the summer months, may not be equipped with ventilation systems. But if they are nevertheless created, the recuperator should be supplemented with a bypass. Then, on hot days, excess heating of street air can be canceled without intruding into the design of the air ducts. You can use both conventional and monoblock complexes. The second option has enhanced noise protection, and therefore is ideal for private housing.

Many frame house projects are initially supplemented with special openings, which are initially designed to carry out the required communications. You should not refuse this opportunity. Plastic pipes for air supply and exhaustion are ideal in frame buildings because they:

cheaper than steel ones;

not subject to the destructive effects of condensate;

do not turn into cold bridges.

The minimum size of horizontal channels is 10x10 cm. For horizontal mains, this figure starts from 12x12 cm. It is imperative to use window frames (along with walls) to place inflow valves. It is recommended to install ventilation ducts near air ducts serving gas boilers. If the house is equipped with a conventional stove, the discharge channel is as close as possible to this device.

The hood in a one-story house is often enhanced by adding a household fan. This approach is quite convenient and allows you to prevent the spread of bad odors throughout the house. But ensuring normal operation of the system is impossible without leaving gaps separating the floor from the doors. Central air conditioning is often an added upgrade. However, its use is difficult due to the fact that it will be necessary to stretch very thick pipes.

They take up a lot of space and are not always practical or comfortable in appearance. The cost of such a device is not affordable for all people. But regardless of the season, it will provide the same level of heating in any room. In a two-story residential building, the problems are somewhat different. Here, supporting normal air circulation in sanitary facilities and kitchens occupying different tiers comes to the fore.

Please note: conventional technical solutions used in two-story buildings often create increased noise. We must immediately prepare for this and actively dampen extraneous sounds. At the same time, it is impossible to reduce the ventilation power of problem areas - the air in them should be changed 10 times in 60 minutes. Professionals consider the best solution to the problem to be the use of a natural supply and exhaust configuration and a recuperator.

The main ventilation unit in a house with both a full second floor and an attic must pump at least 400 cubic meters per hour. m of air.

But the larger the ventilated area, the stronger the installation must be. It is recommended to use decentralized type recuperators. Such devices are installed in separate rooms, eliminating the need for air duct systems. Positive results are reflected even in adjacent rooms.

Correct air movement is ensured by placing the receiving and output openings on opposite walls. But their area must be strictly identical, only then the passage of air flows will be normal. Recommendation: it is better to replace the upper grille with a pipe rising above the roof. In this case, the overall efficiency will only increase further. It is advisable to equip the sewage system with a separate ventilation system.

Fan pipes are made of the same materials as the waste discharge riser. To carry them out, the channel provided by the design of the house is used. Important: if the architects did not initially concern themselves with this point, a horizontal outlet into the wall should be used. Since the drain in a private house is small, the passage of odors from the septic tank is also very limited. The inner sides are insulated using roofing felt or bitumen, and the outer sides are lined with 350 mm of clay or a little more.

There are also subtleties when arranging ventilation in houses made of aerated concrete. Often, central channels are made from reliable grades of galvanized steel. Insulating the passages helps prevent the occurrence of condensation. Alternatives to such measures include laying a brick air route or lining with a carefully designed plastic seal. Ventilation of aerated concrete premises is carried out at least 5 times within an hour.

Air ducts can be made from galvanized material, asbestos cement, or plastic with the appropriate characteristics. It is necessary to lay channels in all rooms without exception. The lines used to remove exhaust air merge together in the attic or at ceiling level. In this case, high-quality insulation of their roof outlets is extremely important. For forced ventilation of aerated concrete buildings, pipes with a cross-section of 130 mm are used; natural channels are made from 150 mm pipes.

Experienced builders believe that laying channels inside walls is impractical. In this case, you may encounter the appearance of condensation and a decrease in the thermal characteristics of the home. In aerated concrete houses, special shafts or partitions are used to place drainage and underwater channels, separating the internal walls. The best solution is to line it with a plastic part and cut out holes of the required size.

Arranging air circulation in built-in rooms

But simply supplying portions of fresh air from the outside is not enough - both in a wooden house and in a structure made of aerated concrete this is true to the same extent. After all, if freshness touches only the immediate conclusion and does not go further, all meaning will be lost. Ventilation must also ensure the circulation of air masses. For a cold attic in the classical scheme, an adjustable system is required, in which the rafters and sheathing are not closed. If this approach is not satisfactory, you need to use cladding with gaps through which gas will move freely and unrestrictedly.

Ondulin and slate should be laid without the use of films that hinder the movement of air or water vapor. They will also pass through metal tiles well, but you may encounter condensation. Channels for air access on a gable roof are made in the gables. For tight junctions and lining, as well as for the manufacture of pediments made of stone, you will have to prepare holes in the walls. The total area of ​​ventilation ducts on any floor, including the attic, must be at least 0.2% of the total area.

To save money, they install standard grilles (one with adjustment, and the other with the holes facing down). It is imperative to cover the grilles with mosquito nets to ensure that insects do not get inside. This is not the approach required for hip roof ventilation. There, the air input is prepared at the bottom (in the filing), and for its output a hole is prepared at the very ridge. When using a flexible roof, we recommend a turtle-type valve or a ridge with a ventilation function.

There is a fairly widespread opinion that attic ventilation leads to loss of warm air. In reality, such cases occur only through the fault of unprofessional builders or designers. They start such a myth in order to justify their own mistakes and shortcomings in their work. Ventilating systems must be of increased strength, because otherwise they will not withstand the resulting loads. It is recommended to bring the holes as close to the ridge as possible.

It is allowed to install continuous soffits under the eaves. But if such products are installed, they must be equipped with a thin mesh (plastic or aluminum to prevent corrosion). Supply components must be installed in the cleanest place possible. The distance from the suction equipment to the exhaust fan should be at least 8 m. Installing a recuperator is very useful.

When the design of a private house provides for the organization of a ground floor (basement), it is necessary to consider equipping its walls with openings for natural air exchange. This takes into account:

composition and mechanical structure of the soil;

relief of the territory;

prevailing wind directions;

depth of foundation and its type;

mode of use;

groundwater height.

According to professionals, 1 hole should be per 2-3 m of wall. Several more of them are made when construction is carried out in a lowland. If there is a clear lack of ventilation, an additional supply and exhaust system is used. Floor ventilation is very important, sometimes even more important than basement ventilation. If it is not provided, even the strongest and most beautiful boards will quickly be destroyed by mold and other fungi.

Air is blown through the underground space through holes made in the foundation. Pipes working for inflow are laid there. They try to bring them as close as possible to the hood; if this is not possible, simultaneously increase the diameter of the inlet hole. If during the first months of using the home the ventilation proves to be insufficiently effective, additional holes have to be punched. But it is much easier and better to do everything properly when pouring a concrete base.

A properly organized air exchange system in the house ensures:

• oxygen supply;
• removal of unpleasant odors;
• protecting rooms from fungus, dampness and mold;
• optimal sanitary and comfortable living conditions;
• nominal operation of boiler equipment;
• stable draft of wood-burning fireplaces.

The cost of installation of ventilation systems for a private house

All prices listed below are basic for Properties located in Moscow and Moscow Region.

The cost of work does not include rigging work.

The cost of work does not take into account increasing factors for work on weekends and holidays, as well as night work.

Prices for other types of work are subject to additional agreement.

A flexible system of discounts is provided depending on the scope of work.

The ventilation system in a private house is of three types:

• Natural (gravity). In this option, ventilation is carried out due to the influx of fresh air through its infiltration through leaks in window and door openings, special valves or simply open openings, and air removal (exhaust) occurs through natural ventilation ducts of the building design.
• Mechanical (forced). In this case, various exhaust and supply units are used, which make it possible to pre-prepare and move air over significant distances, and also serve a large number of rooms in the house at the same time.
• Combined. Such systems combine natural and mechanical ventilation.

Features of the arrangement and principle of operation of natural ventilation of a country house

The operating principle of natural ventilation is based on the generation of a lifting force in the ventilation shaft due to the difference in temperature inside and outside the room, as well as the difference in pressure.

How it works?

The temperature in the house is higher than outside, so the air in the rooms has a lower density, which creates a lifting force, it rises through the ventilation duct and goes outside. At the same time, a vacuum occurs in the room, which helps to draw in fresh air from the street through leaks in window and door openings, special valves or simply open openings. The air coming from the street has a higher density and lower temperature, due to which it is located below, and under its influence, light and warm air is forced out of the rooms.

The wind accelerates air flows, and with an increase in the difference in wind speed and temperature outside and inside the house, draft improves, as a result, the supply of fresh air into the house increases. If previously the places where it entered were leaks in doors and windows, modern window and door systems are practically airtight, so to organize natural air exchange in the house it is necessary either to install special valves (air infiltration valve), which are mounted in the walls and windows of the building, or to open the windows slightly.

Natural ventilation in the house has the following advantages:

• Quiet operation.
• No accidents. This ventilation does not depend on electricity supply and does not require regular maintenance.
• Economical. The movement of air masses is carried out without the use of additional equipment.
• Possibility of combination with air conditioning systems.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation at home:

• Dependence of draft on air temperature inside and outside the room. In summer, natural traction is practically ineffective.
• It is required to comply with the rules for organizing ventilation shafts.
• Extraneous noise from the street when windows are opened.
• Entry of untreated fresh air into the room (dust, etc.).
• The volume of air removed through the ventilation duct is insignificant.

Features and types of forced ventilation

Mechanical ventilation (or, as it is also called, forced ventilation) is an “artificial” system in which air exchange is carried out through the use of mechanical equipment - fans. It is used in private homes where natural ventilation is not effective or is not provided for in the construction at all, there is a swimming pool, a built-in garage, or there are increased requirements for the microclimate.

Advantages of this type of ventilation:

• stable operation regardless of weather conditions;
• possibility of preparing the supplied air to the room: filtration, disinfection, heating, cooling, humidification;
• ensuring stable draft of wood-burning fireplaces;
• the ability to maintain the required temperature and humidity in the house;
• removal of excess moisture in “wet” rooms - baths, showers, swimming pools.

There are two types of mechanical ventilation in the house:

• without heat recovery;
• with heat recovery, when the thermal energy of the exhaust air is used.

The second type of ventilation is the most modern and energy efficient. However, it is also the most expensive of all types.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation in a private house can be organized in natural (through open door and window openings) and mechanical (using air supply units) methods.

Supply mechanical ventilation consists of a direct supply unit, a network of air ducts (if necessary) through which air is distributed throughout the premises, and air distribution devices (grills, diffusers) through which air is supplied to the premises. The air handling unit includes (depending on the configuration):

• valve with external air drive;
• filtration section (there may be several of them in one installation);
• heating and cooling section;
• fan section;
• humidification section;
• noise reduction section.

Supply ventilation systems may vary:

• type:
  • channel, in which air exchange is carried out through channels and air ducts;
  • ductless, where the flow is supplied directly to the premises through holes in the walls.

• according to the method of equipment installation:
  • monoblock - all components are assembled in one compact case;
  • typesetting - consist of individual devices that are connected to each other.

Supply ventilation units have the following advantages:

• the ability to regulate the volume, temperature and humidity of the supplied air;
• the ability to filter and disinfect air to the required “purity”;
• the ability to move prepared air over long distances to all rooms of the house.

Exhaust ventilation

Exhaust ventilation in a private house is organized naturally, mechanically (with the help of fans) or both at the same time. When using a mechanical exhaust system, clean air enters the rooms through doors, windows, special valves, grilles, and exhaust air is removed outside through exhaust fans.

Exhaust mechanical ventilation can consist of either just one fan or a network of air ducts through which air moves, as well as air intake devices (grills, diffusers) through which air is removed from the premises.

The exhaust unit includes (depending on the configuration):

• valve with external air drive or check valve;
• fan section;
• noise reduction section.

Wall-mounted household exhaust fans are also used.

Advantages of mechanical exhaust ventilation:

• performance does not depend on weather conditions;
• the ability to move air over long distances;
• ability to regulate performance from 0 to 100%.

Ventilation using supply and exhaust systems

Modern supply and exhaust ventilation systems at home combine two functions at once - providing air supply and removing air. In such systems, air is supplied and removed through air ducts. Air distribution and air intake devices - grilles and diffusers - are located directly in the premises.

The most common are monoblock air handling units. They are small in size and have a low noise level. As a rule, such installations have a built-in automation system and remote wall-mounted control panels, which are small in size and can be placed in any convenient place. The model range and equipment of air handling units for a private home are different and allow us to satisfy the desires of the most demanding customers.

The main elements of supply and exhaust ventilation systems are:

• Grille or diffuser indoors. These are the final elements of the system, designed for proper air distribution.
• Air ducts. They are designed to supply and remove air. Air ducts form highways from shaped products and pipes; they differ in cross-sectional area, shape (rectangular, round) and the material from which they are made.
• External grilles for air intake and exhaust. Through these elements, air from the street enters the supply channel or is removed outside. They are aimed at protecting the system from rodents, birds, foreign objects and precipitation.
• Air valve. This is an element of the ventilation unit that prevents air from entering the system while it is in off mode. It can be equipped with electric heating, which prevents freezing of the sashes.
• Filters. The use of filters is aimed at protecting ventilated rooms and the system itself from dust, various insects and other small objects. There are filters with several cleaning classes. Regular cleaning and replacement of filters is recommended.
• Heater. The device heats the air supplied to the house. It can be either electric or water.
• Cooler. The device cools the air supplied to the house. It can be freon or water.
• Fan. It provides the necessary pressure for supplying and removing air from the system, as well as the required air flow. The fan can be mounted directly in the unit housing, in the air duct, on a special support or on the roof of the building. Fans are available in standard and soundproof versions.
• Humidifier. The device provides the specified air humidity. There are adiabatic, isothermal and ultrasonic humidifiers.
• Silencers. These elements prevent sounds from operating appliances from spreading through the air duct system. When air enters them, it passes through special barriers, as a result of which its intensity decreases.
• Control system. It can be automatic (operation is controlled by remote control) or mechanical (switch). Its main elements are the control unit, primary measuring instruments and actuators.

An improved air handling unit is called a recovery system. It provides effective air exchange in the house without loss of heat and cold. This design is equipped with a recuperator, which allows you to reduce the cost of heating, cooling and humidifying the air supplied to the premises by using (recovering) the heat, cold and humidity of the removed air.

Ventilation of house premises with gas equipment

If your country house has gas equipment, then increased requirements must be placed on creating air circulation in the rooms. Impaired traction can cause poisoning from combustion products. If combustion products enter a room, they can cause a deterioration in the person’s well-being, including loss of consciousness or complete cessation of breathing. For this reason, air circulation in a room with a heating device that runs on natural gas must be organized in accordance with the following technical requirements:

• Combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level feed, a cut of the same height is installed in the channel.
• There are no more than two gas devices per chimney.
• The ventilation system must be sealed to prevent carbon monoxide or soot from leaking into the rooms. The processing of seams and joints is carried out using a material that is resistant to high temperatures.
• Elements of the air exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.
• Air flow must be ensured for normal combustion and removal of combustion products.

Advantages of cooperation with OVeKon-Engineering LLC

LLC "OVeKon-Engineering" has been developing and installing climate control equipment for more than 11 years. Our company’s specialists are competent and qualified professionals who provide ventilation installation services in a private home based on all modern technological and ergonomic requirements. We use only high-quality professional equipment, which helps us solve problems of any degree of complexity.

We offer you a comprehensive installation of ventilation systems to improve the microclimate, which includes:

• selection of equipment and all necessary materials;
• dismantling and installation of ventilation systems;
• service technical warranty and post-warranty maintenance;
• disinfection and cleaning of ventilation systems.

They choose us because we have the following advantages:

• Work experience. Operating in the professional climate market since 2005.
• Innovation. Use of modern developments in the field of energy efficiency and alternative energy sources.
• Technical equipment. The use of advanced CAD tools, imported equipment and tools, thanks to which high quality is achieved in the shortest possible time.
• Production . Own production and warehouse base.
• Guarantee. Carrying out work on the basis of certificates of membership in self-regulatory organizations.
• Extensive geography. We work in all regions of Russia.
• Together from “A” to “Z”. We provide comprehensive ventilation installation services: from design to service.

OVeKon-Engineering LLC maintains a long-term and successful partnership with many trusted suppliers and manufacturers of climate control equipment, and also has its own production facilities for the production of air ducts, shaped and network elements. That is why ventilation installation in a private house is carried out by our company’s specialists in the shortest possible time, at affordable prices and always with high quality.

When building private houses, many developers are interested in whether ventilation is needed in a private house and how it is done? It is necessary to decide on all these points at the housing design stage in order to avoid further alterations and various negative phenomena. Therefore, further we will get acquainted with all the types and features of ventilation systems in private houses, and also consider why they are needed in general.

Why ventilation in private houses?

It's no secret that ventilation is the key to a comfortable stay in a room. After all, it ensures the outflow of old air and the influx of fresh air, which is so necessary for human life.

True, in private houses not so long ago, ventilation systems, in the traditional sense of the word, were not installed, since the inflow and outflow of air was carried out naturally through cracks in wooden windows and doors. In addition, building materials were used that “breathe” on their own.

Nowadays, when building houses, as a rule, modern technologies are used, in particular, sealed plastic double-glazed windows are installed, insulation is performed with airtight insulation, etc. As a result, the structure is completely airtight.

In this case, organizing ventilation in a private house is simply necessary, otherwise the lack of air exchange will affect the well-being of the residents. In addition, increased levels of humidity will lead to mold on the walls, which will not only ruin the finish, but can also cause serious illness.

Types of ventilation

Arrangement of ventilation in a private house can be done in several ways:

Each type of ventilation has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, if a country house is located in an area where the air is clean and fragrant, then it is not advisable to install a forced system, which, among other things, filters incoming air masses.

If the house is located in an urban area, then air purification is a necessity, because it is unlikely that anyone will want to breathe exhaust gases or industrial waste. But how to determine which ventilation is better in a particular case? Below we will try to answer this question.

In the photo - an air duct in a private house

Natural ventilation

Natural ventilation is an excellent choice if the house meets the following mandatory requirements:

1. As mentioned above, it is located in an area with truly clean air;
2. The walls were built from the following building materials:
   • wood;
   • cellular concrete (foam-gas block);
   • cinder block;
   • bricks, etc.

It should be noted that the natural ventilation system is also the cheapest, since there is no need to spend money on equipment, the price of which can be very high.

In addition, it has some other advantages:

• Operation does not require additional energy costs;
• The house will be filled with natural street air with all its aromas;
• With a correctly executed scheme, it is possible to regulate the intensity of air exchange.

Therefore, in private homes, where possible, systems with natural air exchange are installed. The design of such systems is extremely simple - the exhaust is carried out through the outside. Typically, the duct runs through the roof.

Air flow occurs through supply valves, which are installed in the walls. If necessary, these devices can be completely blocked.

Advice! You can check the effectiveness of ventilation using a match or lighter. To do this, you need to bring the light to. With good draft, the light should deviate towards the ventilation duct.

Supply and exhaust

The forced system is the most effective.

Therefore, it makes sense to perform it in the following cases:

1. If the outside air is polluted;
2. If the walls are insulated with airtight materials or built from the following materials:
   • expanded polystyrene concrete;
   • sandwich panels;
   • vacuum panels;
   • MDM panels, etc.

It must be said that the ventilation device in a private house in this case is quite complex. It is necessary to ensure air flow in all rooms, especially in rest and sleeping rooms, as well as in the kitchen.

Exhaust ducts, as a rule, are supplied to non-residential premises, such as:

• Kitchen;
• Toilet;
• Bathroom, etc.

Air is extracted from other rooms naturally, through cracks in the interior doors. At the same time, the forced system allows you to regulate air circulation.

Expensive equipment can maintain certain modes even in automatic mode thanks to electronics and built-in temperature and humidity sensors.

Components for ventilation in a private home usually include the following elements:

• Fans– clean air is forcibly sucked into the system and old air is removed.
• Filters– provide air purification. Since the degree of purification may vary, these devices are selected individually. It should be noted that in some cases filters are installed not only in the supply ducts, but also in the exhaust ducts, to protect them from clogging.
• Air ducts– channels through which fresh air is delivered and old air is removed. As a rule, steel or plastic pipes are used for this.
• Heaters– provide heating of incoming flows, which allows you to save on heating in winter, since the room is not cooled during ventilation.

The easiest way to perform supply and exhaust ventilation is using special installations. These devices contain all the necessary components, so installing ventilation in a private house comes down to installing air ducts and connecting the ventilation unit to them.

The best solution is installations with a recuperator, which provides heating of the supply air flows using the heat of the exhaust air. This type of device is the most economical in winter.

Advice! To prevent condensation in the ventilation in a private home, the air ducts located in the attic must be insulated.

Mixed systems

In mixed systems, forced exhaust is most often an addition to natural ventilation. For example, if a gas stove is installed in the kitchen, you can install an exhaust hood above it, which will draw out combustion products, steam and fat emissions during the cooking process.

In some cases, general forced traction is performed. The simplest version of its design is a ventilation grille with a fan. This device can be used in cases where there is insufficient draft in the system.

More advanced models of such fans can turn on automatically when the temperature or humidity in the room increases. If necessary, installing such a device with your own hands will not be difficult for any home craftsman.

Independent ventilation arrangement

Often, the construction of a house takes place in a strict economy mode. In this case, many of the works, including the installation of a ventilation system, are carried out by the owners themselves.

The assembly of all the components itself is not difficult. However, before installing ventilation in a private house, it is necessary to competently draw up a project.

Correct and efficient ventilation can only be carried out if it has been calculated beforehand.

The following factors are taken into account:

• Room volume;
• Number of people living in the house;
• The presence of furnaces and other devices that take away oxygen or pollute the air.

However, it hardly makes sense to spend a huge amount of your time, because a specialist can do this work much faster, and will also help you choose the most optimal and affordable scheme in a given case.

Note! It is better to tackle the project even before building a house, since ventilation ducts are often laid during the construction of walls.

Once the circuit is ready, installation is not difficult. The most important thing is to install the ventilation ducts if they were not laid during the construction of the walls.

As a rule, air ducts are connected to each other using clamps. Moreover, there are clamps that allow you to attach ventilation ducts to walls or even the ceiling.

When using special equipment, the installation procedure is contained in the instructions that are included in the kit. True, some complex electronically controlled models require debugging, which must be performed by specialists.

Here, perhaps, are all the main types and features of ventilation in private houses.

Conclusion

Ventilation in modern private houses is a prerequisite for comfortable and safe living. Since there are quite a few options for implementing the system, the choice depends on the characteristics of the house itself, environmental conditions and the financial capabilities of the owners.

The video in this article can provide some additional information on this topic.